Prius Gen2 adapter board development thread

[hugow93]

I was wiring up the board and inverter this evening to test in open loop mode.

Like a champ, I briefly wired the I9 to 12v backwards (12v, GND swapped, some resultant sparks and smell before I realised).
Could have been 10 seconds?

Related or otherwise, I wasn't able to get the inverter to turn on (quite likely I've made a mistake elsewhere too and will get more time to debug on the weekend).

I know the general consensus is "can't kill a Toyota inverter", but just to rule out that as a variable, would this have seriously damaged the inverter electronics?

The control board still seems to be fine, all LEDs as normal.

Any insight appreciated, thanks!

[Isaac96]

Smell generally means something is dead. Can you look at parts and see if any are discolored? Check things like diodes (which would have become forward biased and carried short-circuit current).

[RetroZero]

I was wiring up the board and inverter this evening to test in open loop mode.

Like a champ, I briefly wired the I9 to 12v backwards (12v, GND swapped, some resultant sparks and smell before I realised).

I feel your pain. Hope it's an easy accessible diode or fuse.

[RetroZero]

Looks like I have Mg2 outputs running MG1 in closed loop on 12volts. Will add some extra set up steps to wiki

That was after 'set pinswap 5' and physically swopping PWM U and W. (I was only getting juddering motor no matter the 'syncoffs' value.
Is it normal that pinswap remains at "none" after manually setting input to 5?

Next step - verify Il1 and Il2 are correctly synchronised with U and V pwm outputs.
Could I disconnect motor wiring and carry out testing with resistor (55W light bulb) between PWM out puts and Neg HV terminal (like sine mode initial set up), along with disconnecting each PWM output signals from adapter board to confirm PWM phases are correct?

[ZooKeeper]

Is it normal that pinswap remains at "none" after manually setting input to 5?

Yes, same as mine.

[ascii-art]

I'm a little confused about the current sensing. If I understand the Patreon schematic correctly, both GIVA and MIVA are connected to the same input on the MCP602SN op-amp via individual resistors (and similarly, GIWA and MIWA are joined).

I thought GIVA and GIWA are the current sensors for MG1 and MiVA and MIWA are current sensors on two of the MG1 phases. So why are they combined on the pcb? Shouldn't one only need MIVA and MIWA if driving MG2 (or G... for MG2)? Is there some kind of differential signalling going on?

Does any current on MG1 have to be taken into consideration when calibrating the IL1 & IL2 readings for MG2? Thanks for any thoughts on this, I'm a little lost.

[SciroccoEV]

I'm a little confused about the current sensing.

This is why it's important to read the threads. I admit this becomes more difficult as they become longer, but they wouldn't be so long in the first place if people actually read them.

As has been described, the idea is to be able to use the MG1 inverter for charging purposes. There are a limited number of analogue inputs on the CPU, so the currents from the two inverters are fed into a 'summing' amplifier. Since only one inverter is going to be in use at any one time, then you're adding zero and the circuit effectively gives you the current reading from whichever inverter is actually in use.

[tom3141]

Just assembling my board and noticed a discrepancy between the wiki wiring schematic and the sheet that came with the board. The wiki has pin 9 as brake and pin 10 as start, the pinout on the sheet has them reversed. I assume this is a typo on the wiring schematic on the wiki?

[ZooKeeper]

Just assembling my board and noticed a discrepancy between the wiki wiring schematic and the sheet that came with the board. The wiki has pin 9 as brake and pin 10 as start, the pinout on the sheet has them reversed. I assume this is a typo on the wiring schematic on the wiki?

What board, the thru-hole or SMD?

[tom3141]

Sorry, Johannes SMD

[RetroZero]

Good spotting BatMan! The Pin Mapping with the adapter board is correct (works for me). Willl require Zookeeper to update and replace the one on wiki?

[ZooKeeper]

Done, thanks for letting us know!

[tom3141]

Great, thanks for confirming and making the change.

[RetroZero]

Took the liberty to add 5 more steps - please read through and check I haven't made any major mistakes. I am the dumb "automotive mechanic trying electrical engineering" on this forum, so read with caution, however I hope documenting the steps I know have worked for me will help the more qualified to "update/modify"..And free up Damien, Johu and others doing the hard R&D.

[RetroZero]

Even though I have Mg1 spinning under throttle control and 2amps current on 12 volt setup, I would like to proceed and verify Il1 and Il2 locations along with PWM outputs. Can I use the Sine procedures in Foc?

Here is the setup before "Pinswap", and would like to test the new configuration in Foc mode.

[ZooKeeper]

Does anyone prefer v1.2 over that which is already in the Wiki?

I tidied up some and tried to match the wire colors on the I-10 connector as closely as possible to original.

[RetroZero]

Hope to complete PWM phase positions in relation to adapterboard pinswap5 command. Once all is good, I will move to next power stage....happened to stumble on a Gen2 battery pack looking for a good home with 211 volts sleeping inside . I hope to start with 4 modules at a time (28 volts) , so will make up some jumper cable system and remove the original bus bar set up in the meantime. Since the Safety Lever is connected to the pack in the middle, I will have to start there and move outwards in both directions when adding modules.
Would recharging 4 modules at a time with a 24 volt charger be a problem (short term solution)? I haven't gone into charger mode of the Inverter yet, and don't have a BMS yet.
I saw somewhere talk about Prius contactors not having economisers and there being a code to add for making them draw less current..Could this be a short term solution untill I sort out some certain Kilovacs with economisers ?

[SciroccoEV]

Very simple coil economiser;

Use a variable power supply to find the pull in and drop out voltages for the contactor. Chose a series resistor to give you a coil voltage around mid way between the pull in and drop out voltages when running from your chosen supply (13.8V usually).

Put an electrolytic capacitor in parallel with the resistor. The current it takes to charge this capacitor will give the boost you need to pull in the contactor. You may need quite a large value to give a reliable pull in.

[johu]

Yeah, like here: viewtopic.php?f=17&t=531

[RetroZero]

OK, thanks.

[johu]

Just uploaded the schematic and gerber files to github: https://github.com/jsphuebner/inverter-hardware

[RetroZero]

Got Foc set up on the bench, and trying to verify pinswap functions.
AFAIK, pinswap is only in FOC firmware. So I have noted my currents (that need swapping) along with PWM signals.
If I do any of the pinswap drop down selections in Foc mode, no modifications appear at inverter for currents or pwm.. (after update, refresh and restart of board)
I had to physically swop cables last time round.
Since I'm planning on bumping up voltage, and using original prius connections, I can't go swopping cables around.
Any ideas? What am I missing?

[ZooKeeper]

I am not sure what, if any, pinswaps are needed for the Prius Gen2 inverter powering the Gen2 transaxle. My guess is only the current sensors as the MG2 connections between the Inverter and motor are as in the vehicle I presume??

[RetroZero]

greetings everyone,
Ive a question about resolver connections.
I believe these are the colors and signals for the gen2 prius MG1 resolver( and if anybody has MG2 connections I can easily find the colors by the attached photo)

Any chance of putting up a picture of MG2 resolver wiring diagram please?

[ZooKeeper]

Any chance of putting up a picture of MG2 resolver wiring diagram please?