Prius Gen2 adapter board development thread

[imwoody36]

Does anybody knows why we have jumpers Sj1 and Sj2?
I'm struggling with getting a nice triangle out of my (outlander) resolver, and watched video's again from Damien, where he showed his prius transaxle with a nice triangle signal from his resolver. also tried it, with Sine and hand, but without success. also tried a few possible other combinations with resolver without result.
Then i had a look at the GEN3 encoder signal input and noticed that R1 and R2 are not active due to the open jumper, while its a hard line within the Gen 3 Schematic. Beside that the encoder scheme's are very alike.
my question: can I set Sj1 and SJ2 as another possible solution for my Resolver quest?

just a quick reminder..I set the plot to 1000 instead of 10 when looking at the resolver

[Bram]

Does anybody knows why we have jumpers Sj1 and Sj2?

SJ1 and SJ2 are for ENCODER use only! They activate pull-up to 5V. Do not close them for resolver. Set encmode to resolver.

Thanks guys, I did set encmode to resolver as one of the first things. and also with a plot resolution of 10 and 1000.
With the 10 i get a weird twisted line from 0 untill 220 degrees with a lot of noise.

let me try again, and start procedure from start again, I'm doing something wrong here, my brain is probably overheated with this temperatures above 35Degress Celcius.

[johu]

Well I have intended, but mystery progress

- The resolver signal is back, I have absolutely zero clue how; then again I never figured out when or why I lost it.
- MGR "fights" me very slightly when I attempt to rotate it and measure angle with the inverter powered on
- All the STM power and grounds seem ok: 3v3 on 1, 13, 19, 32, 48, 64 and 0v0 (< 3mV) on 7, 12, 18, 31, 47, 63
- I have 4.4kHz on pin 54
- 28 = 80Hz
- Lastly, pins 57, 58 & 59 all have 9.5mV & no Hz

FOC or sine firmware? Manual mode and non-zero ampnom/fslipspnt or manualid/iq, respectively? pwmpol=ActiveHigh?
Also try applying these parameters: https://openinverter.org/wiki/Configura ... 2_Inverter

[ZooKeeper]

SIN for testing, I have never had FOC working w/PWM output, but understand it is the correct version for my motor.

In Manual Run, parameters as described in above link; non-zero ampnom & fslippnt, I am getting no signal that I can measure into or out of the ULN. This is the identical manner where I had twitching before and melted my test wires.

[johu]

Ok now you're talking about output on the ULN before you said you measured the outputs pins of the STM32. Now which one? The ULN alone will not output anything unless tied high. When connected the the inverter MG2 PWM inputs MSDN needs to be tied high in order for the inputs to rest at 15V. Only then will you see anything on the ULN outputs

[ZooKeeper]

Sorry for the confusion, let me attempt to declarify after rechecking my notes

STM32 pins 41, 42, 43 have no measurable signal output, consequently there is no signal @ pins 5, 6 & 7 of the ULN and no signal to the inverter on the corresponding ULN output pins.

I have stable 14.9Vdc on each of the ULN output pins with the inverter/VCU in Manual Run & 12v supplied to the inverter logic and MSDN.

Based on that, combined with all the other results, it seems that somehow I damaged the STM as I cannot confirm any output from it.

[Jack Bauer]

Have you selected forward or reverse direction?
What is your heatsink temp?

[ZooKeeper]

I

Am

Stupid

I lost situational awareness and forgot to tie the FWD input high, now that is corrected, there is definitely resistance to manual motor turning and 1.65Vdc on the STM outout/ULN input & ~7.4Vdc output from the ULN.

To answer the tmphs question, 103.28*C.

[johu]

Good
I think the latest firmware should fix the tmphs reading.

[ZooKeeper]

Pinswap PWMOutput1>3 and it is PERFECT!

SMOOTH AS GLASS

<edit: attached params>

[RetroZero]

Thanks for the update Zookeeper! Awesome breakthrough!

[johu]

Very good! Can you verify it turns equally well in both directions? Puzzled about the pinswap, but hey, thats why we have it

[Bram]

Congrats Zookeeper!

I've got it also running smooth with FOC, with a bit of different parameters, like I donthave the Pinswap (0), and my deadtime is 183.
While running, the inverter needs a lot of current from 24V battery. like 180Amps! that keeps me away from playing with parameters with such a high current. ILGain and UDC gain are the same as Zookeeper (let me try to upload my parameters)

I've the Gen2 inverter, with a outlander motor

[LRBen]

I've got it also running smooth with FOC, with a bit of different parameters, like I donthave the Pinswap (0), and my deadtime is 183.
While running, the inverter needs a lot of current from 24V battery. like 180Amps! that keeps me away from playing with parameters with such a high current. ILGain and UDC gain are the same as Zookeeper (let me try to upload my parameters)

I've the Gen2 inverter, with a outlander motor

Damn that's allot of amps. Mine was pulling around 4 amps from the 48v battery to run. Is that in manual mode or with the throttle?
Interesting that you needed to use deadtime, I was assuming that should be kept at 0 for the gen 2. I'll have to look into that as well.

Edit: Also I'm an idiot. Of course mine was pulling about 4 amps because I set it to that on manual mode.

I had some setbacks on the weekend so I haven't made any progress at all.

[johu]

People, stop programming deadtime on gen2 inverters! Now!

[SciroccoEV]

Just how many times does it have to be repeated.

Let me do a test...

GEN2 PRIUS INVERTER = BUILT IN DEADTIME CONTROL
GEN2 PRIUS INVERTER = BUILT IN DEADTIME CONTROL
GEN2 PRIUS INVERTER = BUILT IN DEADTIME CONTROL
GEN2 PRIUS INVERTER = BUILT IN DEADTIME CONTROL
GEN2 PRIUS INVERTER = BUILT IN DEADTIME CONTROL
GEN2 PRIUS INVERTER = BUILT IN DEADTIME CONTROL
GEN2 PRIUS INVERTER = BUILT IN DEADTIME CONTROL
GEN2 PRIUS INVERTER = BUILT IN DEADTIME CONTROL
GEN2 PRIUS INVERTER = BUILT IN DEADTIME CONTROL
GEN2 PRIUS INVERTER = BUILT IN DEADTIME CONTROL
GEN2 PRIUS INVERTER = BUILT IN DEADTIME CONTROL
GEN2 PRIUS INVERTER = BUILT IN DEADTIME CONTROL

Enough?

[Bram]

After Johu's post it was very clear.

If you want to feel me like an idiot? you succeeded!
Therefor I apologize for not being perfect, and still learning while making mistakes.
Respect your years of knowledge, hopeful you respect my learning curve with "stupid" questions and actions. There is lot to take in, mistakes are easily made.

[SciroccoEV]

After Johu's post it was very clear.

Please, just slow down and actually read the threads, then read them again and make notes if necessary.
If something isn't clear, see if the answer is in another thread, don't get fixated on just one.

There is a lot of information here, if you actually take it in. Many aren't and the same questions and the same mistakes keep coming up.

[TheSilverBuick]

Please, just slow down and actually read the threads, then read them again and make notes if necessary.
If something isn't clear, see if the answer is in another thread, don't get fixated on just one.

There is a lot of information here, if you actually take it in. Many aren't and the same questions and the same mistakes keep coming up.

Sage advice. The challenge for me is not always recognizing a solution in the first read through (or second or third ) which requires all the more effort to sort through the noise for solutions.

[johu]

That brings up the question, how shall we proceed with the wiki on that matter? https://openinverter.org/wiki/Toyota_Prius_Gen2_Board still shows the old through hole controller. Would someone like to add a section on the new controller discussed in this thread?
I added an important piece of info here: https://openinverter.org/wiki/Toyota_Pr ... d#Software

EDIT: just took the liberty to re-arrange the page a bit.
Now the inverter itself is described first, then the through hole board, then the SMT board (only placeholder)

[Bram]

a little update on my 180Amp aventure; (gen2 inverter - outlander rear motor)
Played with the syncofs and went from 180 to 1 amp from Battery with manualid 1
changed syncofs from 0 to 9000.
Dont know the rational behind it (yet)

I do have a plot (need to figure out how to upload) that shows with syncofs of "0" that Il1 and Il2 where inverted/opposites and fight each other for the majority of the time, with currents above 300Amps! but the difference did made it run. if you didn see the amps you wouldn't notice the 300Amps fight.

And of course changed deadtime to 0 at first
but that didnt had an effect on the 180Amps consumption.

[konstantin8818]

One kind sir sent me this board for further experiments
Set was a little incomplete, if I can say so. 12way connector was being found on RS components, but modice enclosure was not available.
So I designed my own. Will order 3D printing from transparent plastic as soon as this sh!tshow in Minsk is over...

[ZooKeeper]

Very good! Can you verify it turns equally well in both directions? Puzzled about the pinswap, but hey, thats why we have it

It actually rotated in "Reverse" when set to "man run" + "default fwd" with the 1>3 pinswap.
I physically swapped 1 & 3 and returned the software to pinswap = none, same result.
With pinswap 1>3 + "man run" and physical wires 1>3 swapped, I get shaking and no rotation.

So, I set dir = switch, set to "run" + Fwd =12v, it turns even more smoothly than before AND in forward as expected @ 0.4Aac phase current.

Earlier, in "man" + "default fwd" it turned backwards and draws over 15Aac in so doing.

Sooo, the physical 1 & 3 were swapped and pinswap set to 0 (none) and it does exactly as expected and better than before

<edit> Update: I did some further testing, it is soooo much smoother and battery draw = motor phase current, at least with my 12v test setup. 144 motor RPM, so about 20 flange RPM.

[imwoody36]

zookeeper , you and I are about on the same page today.
I have an MGR from a rav4 hybrid moving, but it wont stop, and I had to pinswap.
i have the ability to stop the motor with no throttle when I sincos swap.
Im using your parameters , have you made changes to syncoffs?

[ZooKeeper]

I had throttle input due to an open pot ground when that happened to me.

Added most up-to-date params, in case it can help someone.

<edit> When I say 1>3, I mean the outer terminal wires are exchanged @ motor thusly: 1-1, 2-2, 3-3 becomes: 1=3, 2=2, 3=1.