You need something on the shaft to provide resistance. I have the gearbox and wheels. And them you need to prepare how you add power to ID.jerrykco wrote: ↑Sat Apr 18, 2020 2:52 amSO today I tried the above Setting manualid to 1 and then set manualiq to 3. No spin. Then I tried manualiq to 10. Voilà, it started to spin up. Slowly at first and I thought great. But then I thought a jet was taking off in my room off the work bench. Wow. Scared the shit out of me. I killed the power and it took more than a minute to come down to Zero RPM. Later on, after recovering my wits, I tried it again, this time manualiq at 5. It did the same thing. I was going to try 4 but I'm a little gun shy now. But I certainly did get to "see some spinny goodness".johu wrote: ↑Fri Apr 17, 2020 6:53 am Almost, and I indeed forgot to mention it: manualid needs to be non-zero (e.g. 1) in order for manualiq to spin the motor.
This calibration procedure can be skipped with the Leaf motor and you can come back to it later: syncofs=0 isn't too far out. Just in case you want to see some spinny goodness.
First you feed it 5 and when it develops speed you reduce ID to 4 or even 3 so spinup is less pronounced. This will give you time to input syncoffset.
Now i generally go and just whack 5000 into it at 60Vdc no problem, but at 360Vdc i have more respect. I add 1000, then 2000, then 3000...etc untill motor starts to whine down. When it stops i add some more ID to see if it will pickup again.
Now i start to add more offset by the 1000 untill i see motor turning the other direction. Then i calculate median between two values and set my syncoffset there.
Still you need to nave EMGCY button handy or maybe forward/reverse switch? I have 3 position switch so i can remove that input and PWM stops without alarm.
