[DRIVING] Porsche Boxster 986 Tesla conversion [FINISHED]
- Boxster EV
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Re: Porsche Boxster 986 Tesla conversion
Thanks for the advice, Kevin.
Just wanted to provide an update to the cheap Chinese Dracarys brake vacuum sensor. It’s junk so I binned it. Worked perfectly for a month or so then started playing up.
I’ve upgraded it to the multicomp PSF109S-81-330 as recommended. It now works as expected with the pump kicking in every few presses of the brake pedal. Cost was £30.
Installed on my Porsche:
Just wanted to provide an update to the cheap Chinese Dracarys brake vacuum sensor. It’s junk so I binned it. Worked perfectly for a month or so then started playing up.
I’ve upgraded it to the multicomp PSF109S-81-330 as recommended. It now works as expected with the pump kicking in every few presses of the brake pedal. Cost was £30.
Installed on my Porsche:
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Re: Porsche Boxster 986 Tesla conversion
Well yes Dracarys switch can act up. But really it is just a mechanical switch with brass body, membrane, nut and spring. You torque the internal nut and increase pressure so equilibrium is reached sooner or later.
Whenever it acts up i remove it from my car and clean it up and reset the spring. This spring sometimes wedges against membrane and switch is allways on or wont work. After i cleaned it, it works as before.
Whenever it acts up i remove it from my car and clean it up and reset the spring. This spring sometimes wedges against membrane and switch is allways on or wont work. After i cleaned it, it works as before.
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Re: Porsche Boxster 986 Tesla conversion
I just don't want to have to worry about 'servicing' it every few months. Better to just buy the unit above and be done with it. Also, the multicomp version is adjustable. I've done 250 miles on the car since fitting and very pleased with the braking performance.arber333 wrote: ↑Tue May 05, 2020 3:38 pm Well yes Dracarys switch can act up. But really it is just a mechanical switch with brass body, membrane, nut and spring. You torque the internal nut and increase pressure so equilibrium is reached sooner or later.
Whenever it acts up i remove it from my car and clean it up and reset the spring. This spring sometimes wedges against membrane and switch is allways on or wont work. After i cleaned it, it works as before.
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Re: Porsche Boxster 986 Tesla conversion
I agree. I need to warn you though, i used the PSF109S switch in my car. After couple of years of use i saw its contacts rusted out since they are exposed to elements. If you put the switch in a box then i think it will not rust.
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Re: Porsche Boxster 986 Tesla conversion
Thanks. it's already inside the car (in the frunk) so it should be fine. I'd be happy to service or replace it every few years if necessary.
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Re: Porsche Boxster 986 Tesla conversion
A few more updates:
I placed all of the carpets back in the frunk (you can just about see the wires for the vacuum sensor):
A little tidying up of the HV junction box, but still more to do:
Fitted a battery brace to the middle battery:
The car is driving really well and I'm starting focus on some of the 'nice to haves', such as getting all of the gauges working, lock pin for charge socket etc.
I placed all of the carpets back in the frunk (you can just about see the wires for the vacuum sensor):
A little tidying up of the HV junction box, but still more to do:
Fitted a battery brace to the middle battery:
The car is driving really well and I'm starting focus on some of the 'nice to haves', such as getting all of the gauges working, lock pin for charge socket etc.
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Re: Porsche Boxster 986 Tesla conversion
I'm using a Davies Craig EWP and one radiator (2.7 Boxster has two). Pump is just after radiator then drive unit, then batteries, charger and return. Drive unit hasn't got above 30 degrees. I'll need to incorporate a valve and battery heating as we approach winter.Isaac96 wrote: ↑Tue Mar 24, 2020 8:28 pmBoxster EV wrote: ↑Tue Mar 24, 2020 11:13 am
The larger of the three banks sits across the frame system inside the engine bay. It rests on the original volt battery tray which has been cut to size and reinforced with some steel box sections welded on. It's then bolted onto the frame.
The weight of the Tesla drive unit and battery bank that the frame system is supporting is connected to the bolt holes of the original front engine mount (and rear mounts). The whole system is still less than 100kg lighter than what the same bolt holes were supporting with the OEM ICE.
It will be very tight to stack another bank of volt cells on top. It's doable but not without more fabrication and grief.
Hope this helps.
How are you cooling the LDU? Will you use the original radiators?
-Isaac
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Re: Porsche Boxster 986 Tesla conversion
I decided to make a small panel out of ABS plastic to house the Nextion SIMPBMS display and also install a voltmeter gauge for the 12v battery. This little section replaces the redundant OEM CD storage slots. The finish is more than acceptable (the pictures don’t do it justice).
Any excuse to use Deutsch connectors too.
Any excuse to use Deutsch connectors too.
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Re: Porsche Boxster 986 Tesla conversion
Looking good, its always great to get on to finishing touches like this on big builds.
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Re: Porsche Boxster 986 Tesla conversion
Very nice! I hope you don't mind if I take inspiration from this
Have you thought about A/C compressors? In my Boxster I managed to find a couple of signals which tracked AC demand nicely; the AC control unit directly controlled the OEM compressor clutch but it also took advice from the instrument panel (so that wire had to be disconnected). I'll see if I can find the wires again and let you know.
-Isaac
Have you thought about A/C compressors? In my Boxster I managed to find a couple of signals which tracked AC demand nicely; the AC control unit directly controlled the OEM compressor clutch but it also took advice from the instrument panel (so that wire had to be disconnected). I'll see if I can find the wires again and let you know.
-Isaac
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Re: Porsche Boxster 986 Tesla conversion
Cheers!Isaac96 wrote: ↑Tue Jun 02, 2020 5:53 pm Very nice! I hope you don't mind if I take inspiration from this
Have you thought about A/C compressors? In my Boxster I managed to find a couple of signals which tracked AC demand nicely; the AC control unit directly controlled the OEM compressor clutch but it also took advice from the instrument panel (so that wire had to be disconnected). I'll see if I can find the wires again and let you know.
-Isaac
Thanks for the offer but I removed all of the AC lines and related hardware. It's a convertible and there really is no need for A/C in the UK 90% of the time. The added space after removing the hardware was also welcome (in front of the scuttle panel). I placed the control box for my EVSE and and 240vac relay coil there.
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Re: Porsche Boxster 986 Tesla conversion
Today I passed 800 electrical miles in the Porsche. The original petrol engine died on 95,801 and I’m now on 96,640. Car is fantastic. I haven’t visited a petrol station (for one of our ICE cars) since March.
During these electron powered miles I’ve had very little issue with the car. There was one mishap with a miscalculation of range and I had to nurse the car home, then another when my 12v battery decided not to charge whilst 10 miles away from civilization (old 12v battery not holding charge), however other than that it’s been trouble free.
I’m still getting an over current fault when pulling away from a standing start too quickly. This morning I stopped to wave a truck through on a tight bit of road, instead he returned the gesture, I went to pull away a little too hard and hit over current. The time waiting for the negative contactor to close before you can start pre-charge / ignition on felt like 5 minutes when it reality it was just 5 seconds and that feeling when you visualize the need to get out and push. in the end, no harm done and I went on my way.
I think the issue is boost related but despite lowering that parameter the flash doesn’t seem to always save it. I need to dig into this when time permits. Obviously it's not high on my priorities but it would be good to pull away at a green light without initially nurturing the throttle pedal.
Not that I’m into racing but a Porsche 911 decided to try his luck a few days ago. That didn’t end well for him.
During these electron powered miles I’ve had very little issue with the car. There was one mishap with a miscalculation of range and I had to nurse the car home, then another when my 12v battery decided not to charge whilst 10 miles away from civilization (old 12v battery not holding charge), however other than that it’s been trouble free.
I’m still getting an over current fault when pulling away from a standing start too quickly. This morning I stopped to wave a truck through on a tight bit of road, instead he returned the gesture, I went to pull away a little too hard and hit over current. The time waiting for the negative contactor to close before you can start pre-charge / ignition on felt like 5 minutes when it reality it was just 5 seconds and that feeling when you visualize the need to get out and push. in the end, no harm done and I went on my way.
I think the issue is boost related but despite lowering that parameter the flash doesn’t seem to always save it. I need to dig into this when time permits. Obviously it's not high on my priorities but it would be good to pull away at a green light without initially nurturing the throttle pedal.
Not that I’m into racing but a Porsche 911 decided to try his luck a few days ago. That didn’t end well for him.
- Boxster EV
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Re: Porsche Boxster 986 Tesla conversion
Latest update: my to do list on the car hasn't really been reduced. I've been too busy driving and enjoying the thing. I also pushed it to 58 miles on one charge last week which was pleasing.
Speaking of charge, I recently bought a Gen 2 Tesla charger for about 50% of the price they were going for a year ago. This'll be replacing my volt charger and hack job of an EVSE control (which does the job but was always temporary). Undecided where the new charger will be mounted, however as the Tesla unit isn't IP rated, it'll either be going in the frunk or the boot (along with the batteries).
I also need to install a charge locking pin, charge indication lights and get the stock dash gauges working (thanks to Tom Debree for providing the CAN DBC file).
I'd really like to resolve the OC issue mentioned in my previous post, as it's really the only thing holding the car back from a performance perspective.
Also threw a GoPro under the boot floor.
Speaking of charge, I recently bought a Gen 2 Tesla charger for about 50% of the price they were going for a year ago. This'll be replacing my volt charger and hack job of an EVSE control (which does the job but was always temporary). Undecided where the new charger will be mounted, however as the Tesla unit isn't IP rated, it'll either be going in the frunk or the boot (along with the batteries).
I also need to install a charge locking pin, charge indication lights and get the stock dash gauges working (thanks to Tom Debree for providing the CAN DBC file).
I'd really like to resolve the OC issue mentioned in my previous post, as it's really the only thing holding the car back from a performance perspective.
Also threw a GoPro under the boot floor.
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Re: Porsche Boxster 986 Tesla conversion
Hi,
It's possible your boost is too low or too high. I'm getting OC events (with Siemens drivetrain) when starting in 3rd gear or higher, due to the jitter of the motor (although I can burnout in 1st...)
-Isaac
It's possible your boost is too low or too high. I'm getting OC events (with Siemens drivetrain) when starting in 3rd gear or higher, due to the jitter of the motor (although I can burnout in 1st...)
-Isaac
- Boxster EV
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Re: Porsche Boxster 986 Tesla conversion
This sounds like a similar issue. Doesn’t make much difference if I adjust the boost.
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- Boxster EV
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Re: Porsche Boxster 986 Tesla conversion
An experienced forum member was kind enough to spend about 30 minutes remotely tuning my drive unit further last week. Changes made to boost, fslipmax, fweak, throtramp, idlemode on, idlespeed and speedkp. Difference is night and day and I’m delighted to report that I can now actually give the motor full power from a standing start without hitting overcurrent fault.
I’ll post my latest params in the Tesla parameter thread shortly.
In other news, I nearly have everything ready to install the Tesla Gen 2 charger. Just waiting on some 2mm2 HV cable. Charger is going to be mounted in the frunk under a false floor, like so:
Also, a few other random pictures. The medium size battery bank is being removed from the boot and being fitted in the engine bay area in the next few months (yes it does fit and will go inside a IP battery box). Although the range on this build is poor, it’s well worth the sacrifice to have max power from the motor (and volt batteries don’t break the bank):
I’ll post my latest params in the Tesla parameter thread shortly.
In other news, I nearly have everything ready to install the Tesla Gen 2 charger. Just waiting on some 2mm2 HV cable. Charger is going to be mounted in the frunk under a false floor, like so:
Also, a few other random pictures. The medium size battery bank is being removed from the boot and being fitted in the engine bay area in the next few months (yes it does fit and will go inside a IP battery box). Although the range on this build is poor, it’s well worth the sacrifice to have max power from the motor (and volt batteries don’t break the bank):
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Re: Porsche Boxster 986 Tesla conversion
Awesome! How's the 0-60 time?
Freeing up that boot space is great, maybe you can throw more batteries in later (hint hint).
-Isaac
Freeing up that boot space is great, maybe you can throw more batteries in later (hint hint).
-Isaac
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Re: Porsche Boxster 986 Tesla conversion
I don’t have the means to test the 0-60 properly but I’d hazard a guess it’s in the mid to high 3s at present. I’ve got the slip at 3 just to prevent wheels breaking traction under hard pulls.
I don’t have an LSD in my drive unit but that’s definitely on the list. The DU may have to come out soon to fit the new battery boxes, so that’ll be a good excuse to change the diff.
The low range doesn’t bother me much, as my daily commute is only a 30 mile round trip. The volt batteries easily cope even when pushing on.
Looking forward to getting the gen 2 Tesla charger installed, meaning a full charge will no longer have to take all night.
What are you doing for cabin heating in your 986? That’s something I’ll need to address in the next few months.
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Re: Porsche Boxster 986 Tesla conversion
Made a very tentative start on my Tesla gen 2 charger. I’m going to post my falterings here rather than the Tesla charger thread as I don't want to clutter it up. However, if there’s anything new or relevant I’ll post it in the Tesla thread.
Ideally I want to get the Tesla charger working before decommissioning the Chevy volt charger set-up for obvious reasons (it would annoy the hell out out of me if the car was suddenly off the road for a few days or weeks). As it's presently working a treat:
So,the charger is going in the frunk with with DC cables running to the rear of the car via the cabin rather than underneath (neater solution). I'm paralleling the 6x DC 2mm2 cables from the charger, via three 20amp DC solar fuses, to 2x DC 6mm2 shielded cables which will then run to the rear of the car, inside orange conduit. Fusing the 6mm2 cable again just before it's terminated onto the battery inside the HV junction box.
The cable goes through the fire wall where the clutch line used to live. It then runs underneath the auto selector, handbrake assy and through the rear bulk-head hole where the gear cables were previously routed and into the mid-engine bay.
What I didn’t realise was how bad at soldering pcbs I would be. Shameful but functional (i hope). The V5 board is in and powered up with 12v on the bench.
Ideally I want to get the Tesla charger working before decommissioning the Chevy volt charger set-up for obvious reasons (it would annoy the hell out out of me if the car was suddenly off the road for a few days or weeks). As it's presently working a treat:
So,the charger is going in the frunk with with DC cables running to the rear of the car via the cabin rather than underneath (neater solution). I'm paralleling the 6x DC 2mm2 cables from the charger, via three 20amp DC solar fuses, to 2x DC 6mm2 shielded cables which will then run to the rear of the car, inside orange conduit. Fusing the 6mm2 cable again just before it's terminated onto the battery inside the HV junction box.
The cable goes through the fire wall where the clutch line used to live. It then runs underneath the auto selector, handbrake assy and through the rear bulk-head hole where the gear cables were previously routed and into the mid-engine bay.
What I didn’t realise was how bad at soldering pcbs I would be. Shameful but functional (i hope). The V5 board is in and powered up with 12v on the bench.
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Re: Porsche Boxster 986 Tesla conversion
I’ve had battery boxes fabricated to bring this contraption closer to what a commercial conversion company would achieve. The main purpose is to ensure the car is safer in every respect and capable of driving in inclement weather.
Battery weight is circa 190kg and now 70% of that will be between the front and rear axle. The remaining battery brick will go under the boot floor. This’ll mean I’ll be able to maintain 100% use of the boot space front and rear.
Battery weight is circa 190kg and now 70% of that will be between the front and rear axle. The remaining battery brick will go under the boot floor. This’ll mean I’ll be able to maintain 100% use of the boot space front and rear.
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Re: Porsche Boxster 986 Tesla conversion
A few pictures and meandering thoughts following my recent Tesla gen 2 charger installation with V5 logic board.
-Installation instructions are all on Damien’s GitHub or in the Tesla charger threads. I read both thoroughly before I started and printed off the installation instructions.
-I used 2mm2 HV wire to run from each charger module and then paralleled them in a separate HVJB nearby. 6mm2 was used to connect directly to the battery via DC HV solar fuses at both charger and HVJB.
- Having a good quality Usart1 lead is necessary. You’ll need some 2.54 pin heads to solder to PCB. It’s helpful to familiarise yourself with ST-Link V2 programming and buy a cheap dongle and fly-leads from eBay for firmware updates.
-Before connecting the AC or DC sides, I configured the charger for testing. Reduced the AC current down to 3amps and set auto enable to off. Once testing is complete, I continued with the installation and configured my preferred settings.
-When incorporating the EVSE wiring, I found out that the charger wants 12vdc a few seconds before applying AC current. I am leaving my charger permanently connected to the 12v for now.
-A good ground on the charger and EVSE earth connection is fundamental. I didn’t at first and Elon was seriously upsetting my Rolec wall pod.
-As I’ve installed this for single phase charging only, I beefed up my L1 and N with 6mm2 cable. The standard 1.5mm2 was getting a little warm
-Note that charge termination happens about 3vdc above termination voltage at which point the EVSE will stop providing AC and return to READY state. For example, I wish my charge to terminate at 392vdc which is about 4.10v per cell. I set my termination voltage at 389VDC to achieve this.
All done!
In conclusion I’m charging at about 10amps across each charge module (I have a 32amp EVSE at home). This is taking about two hours to charge my 16kwh pack. The fact that charging speed is now comparatively so fast, I should be able to comfortably run all my associated systems off the 12v battery during charging (switched on by the 240vac relay coil) without the need to keep the 12v battery topped up.
I still have some work to do in terms of integrating with SIMPBMS.
I'll fit the car's spare wheel cover over the above kit to conceal it.
-Installation instructions are all on Damien’s GitHub or in the Tesla charger threads. I read both thoroughly before I started and printed off the installation instructions.
-I used 2mm2 HV wire to run from each charger module and then paralleled them in a separate HVJB nearby. 6mm2 was used to connect directly to the battery via DC HV solar fuses at both charger and HVJB.
- Having a good quality Usart1 lead is necessary. You’ll need some 2.54 pin heads to solder to PCB. It’s helpful to familiarise yourself with ST-Link V2 programming and buy a cheap dongle and fly-leads from eBay for firmware updates.
-Before connecting the AC or DC sides, I configured the charger for testing. Reduced the AC current down to 3amps and set auto enable to off. Once testing is complete, I continued with the installation and configured my preferred settings.
-When incorporating the EVSE wiring, I found out that the charger wants 12vdc a few seconds before applying AC current. I am leaving my charger permanently connected to the 12v for now.
-A good ground on the charger and EVSE earth connection is fundamental. I didn’t at first and Elon was seriously upsetting my Rolec wall pod.
-As I’ve installed this for single phase charging only, I beefed up my L1 and N with 6mm2 cable. The standard 1.5mm2 was getting a little warm
-Note that charge termination happens about 3vdc above termination voltage at which point the EVSE will stop providing AC and return to READY state. For example, I wish my charge to terminate at 392vdc which is about 4.10v per cell. I set my termination voltage at 389VDC to achieve this.
All done!
In conclusion I’m charging at about 10amps across each charge module (I have a 32amp EVSE at home). This is taking about two hours to charge my 16kwh pack. The fact that charging speed is now comparatively so fast, I should be able to comfortably run all my associated systems off the 12v battery during charging (switched on by the 240vac relay coil) without the need to keep the 12v battery topped up.
I still have some work to do in terms of integrating with SIMPBMS.
I'll fit the car's spare wheel cover over the above kit to conceal it.
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Re: Porsche Boxster 986 Tesla conversion
Very nice setup. I have simpbms connected to the charger 12v supply. Normally it does nothing but if the charger decides to not shutdown or mini-Tom spots a problem he can kill the charger:)
I'm going to need a hacksaw
Re: Porsche Boxster 986 Tesla conversion
Hello! Can you please help me identify the pins of the motor encoder connector? I know the 23pin connector but i don't know the pins on the motor encoder. Thank you!
I also purchased the 4-pin encoder connector for the LDU from https://zero-ev.co.uk/ and plan to use shielded cat6 network cable to connect this to the 23pin connector:
https://zero-ev.co.uk/product/tesla-lar ... model-s-x/
[/quote]
I also purchased the 4-pin encoder connector for the LDU from https://zero-ev.co.uk/ and plan to use shielded cat6 network cable to connect this to the 23pin connector:
https://zero-ev.co.uk/product/tesla-lar ... model-s-x/
[/quote]
- Boxster EV
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Re: Porsche Boxster 986 Tesla conversion
Costin J wrote: ↑Sat Sep 19, 2020 9:44 pm Hello! Can you please help me identify the pins of the motor encoder connector? I know the 23pin connector but i don't know the pins on the motor encoder. Thank you!
I also purchased the 4-pin encoder connector for the LDU from https://zero-ev.co.uk/ and plan to use shielded cat6 network cable to connect this to the 23pin connector:
https://zero-ev.co.uk/product/tesla-lar ... model-s-x/
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=76#p1026