Jack Bauer wrote: ↑Thu Aug 01, 2019 1:57 pm
In other news all the wiring diagrams for the gen 1 resolver connector on the motor that I have are wrong. Correct pinout :
1-2: Temp sensor. 20k at approx 20c ambient
3-8: 17R. Exciter
6-7: 37R. Sin/Cos
4-5 : 37R. Sin/Cos
I know the wiring I attached are as correct it can be, the problem is how Nissan show the terminals on the pictures of the connectors, they are seen from the connecting side of the connectors so a little confusing when you try to filter out the correct colours and pins the last problem is that Nissan changes colour on the wires from connector F13 and CN2 and the pin numbers
Jack Bauer wrote: ↑Fri Aug 02, 2019 8:45 am
Anyone know howto use leafspy to read dtcs from the inverter? HAve tried connecting with a bluetooth obd but it wont read from the inverter can.
Aren't all DTCS handled and served by the VCU, the inverter just sends som bit-valued error codes to the VCU and it's the VCU:s task to interpret the code and translate to DTCS?
Jack Bauer wrote: ↑Fri Aug 02, 2019 12:16 pm
We're spinning:)
Congratulations! Was great to see your video on twitter
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Doing a double post here as well as on the E46 build thread. Had some good progress getting the Gen 1 leaf inverter responding to CAN. Big thanks to celeron55 for all his help and hard work. I have setup a Github repo for an open source controller project: https://github.com/damienmaguire/Nissan ... Controller
As of now I can start the inverter and command torque in one direction only so still need to work out a bit of the can messaging. As always any help much appreciated. Here is a video of the first run :
0x1d4 byte 6 seems to have an active role.
0x00 when in park and brake released.
0x20 when brake lightly pressed in park.
0x30 when brake heavilly pressed in park.
Changes when driving, braking and regening.
Jack Bauer wrote: ↑Thu Aug 01, 2019 1:57 pm
In other news all the wiring diagrams for the gen 1 resolver connector on the motor that I have are wrong. Correct pinout :
1-2: Temp sensor. 20k at approx 20c ambient
3-8: 17R. Exciter
6-7: 37R. Sin/Cos
4-5 : 37R. Sin/Cos
Would you mind sharing the final connection between the resolver cable and white connector on the logic board? If you remember the colours please write them too.
Did you figure out the Sin+/Sin- and Cos+/Cos-, which of 4-5 and 6-7 is what?
I'm just wondering where did you find the due_wire and Wire_EEPROM libraries ? The other two are easy to find with the arduino ide. And no luck with the wire lib's.
0x1d4 byte 6 needs to be 0x30 before the inverter will accept a positive torque command. Updated the software on github for running on the open source vcu. All I need to do now is get it to read the throttle pedal and send torque commands that way.
Like someone here knows, I'm building since some time BMW116 conversion with Leaf motor. My DIY inverter with Johannes v2 controller works, but in meantime I want to try also play with Leaf inverter. Controller from JB connected via CAN is great for this and I want to try this. I want to solder this myself, but here is problem with my soldering skill
I'm not able to solder ATSAM3X8 myself, so I have question - can You maybe sell me pcb with already soldered IC1? I tried to ask You via PW, but according new rules better will be here. Maybe other person will have the same question.
Like someone here knows, I'm building since some time BMW116 conversion with Leaf motor. My DIY inverter with Johannes v2 controller works, but in meantime I want to try also play with Leaf inverter. Controller from JB connected via CAN is great for this and I want to try this. I want to solder this myself, but here is problem with my soldering skill
I'm not able to solder ATSAM3X8 myself, so I have question - can You maybe sell me pcb with already soldered IC1? I tried to ask You via PW, but according new rules better will be here. Maybe other person will have the same question.
Regards.
Honestly, I'm in the same boat in terms of SMD soldering, as the VCM is the first board I've ever done before (The only experience I have with soldering is on 18650 cells). Either way, that on shouldn't be too hard. Buy a solder wick (which are relatively cheap), look up some videos and read some articles on how to use it. You can bridge the connections all together and then use the solder wick to remove the excess solder.
And here's problem with all pads connected. I've already working v2 board from Johannes, which I done myself. Also I'm soldering from time to time some smd parts, but I feel that this is too small for me. From other side - in case of trouble I can take hotair and take cpu back. The world belongs to the brave man
Ok, I will wait a little - maybe Damien can make this favourite for me. Otherwise I have to fight with this. The most important is - car with motor is waiting for heart so I have to put something inside fast.
damian.lo wrote: ↑Sun Oct 20, 2019 2:12 pm
And here's problem with all pads connected. I've already working v2 board from Johannes, which I done myself. Also I'm soldering from time to time some smd parts, but I feel that this is too small for me. From other side - in case of trouble I can take hotair and take cpu back. The world belongs to the brave man
Ok, I will wait a little - maybe Damien can make this favourite for me. Otherwise I have to fight with this. The most important is - car with motor is waiting for heart so I have to put something inside fast.
I think best is to just put rev. 2 board in controler and make connection. PWM signals are good, you just have to connect current sensors and voltage and temp sensing. I think this should be done with minimum loss of time. If you have to make a new circuit and all you loose time learning its quirks. Better to hold on to known ground for quick assembly.
But look at me full of wisdom and still my Pug wont drive...
EDIT: did anyone make a drawing of gen1 Leaf main board in Design spark. If i have layout i can quickly draw Lebowski board on that. Some time ago Bas told me it doesnt absolutely need three current sensors to run.
the last problem is that Nissan changes colour on the wires from connector F13 and CN2 and the pin numbers 
