Mitsubishi outlander charger and DC:DC

[pemtek]

I never tried a resistor, always had cells connected via the original contractors and precharge

Phil

[Dilbert]

I never tried a resistor, always had cells connected via the original contractors and precharge

Phil

I've a Prius battery in the garage to try it with. Fingers crossed I've the polarity correct

[Kevin Sharpe]

I've a Prius battery in the garage to try it with. Fingers crossed I've the polarity correct

You can test polarity with this simple technique;

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=632&p=8198&hilit=polarity#p8215

I would also recommend you limit HV current with a cooker heater element or incandescent light bulb until you're sure everything is wired correctly. No need to guess or cross fingers.

[Dilbert]

I've a Prius battery in the garage to try it with. Fingers crossed I've the polarity correct

You can test polarity with this simple technique;

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=632&p=8198&hilit=polarity#p8215

I would also recommend you limit HV current with a cooker heater element or incandescent light bulb until you're sure everything is wired correctly. No need to guess or cross fingers.

Thanks, some very good tips there. Light bulb trick used to be great for fixing crts and tvs.

[pemtek]

If you take the cover off it says P N on the pcb next to the connections.

The connection nearest the edge of the case is P.

Phil

[Dilbert]

If anyone is interested, I have attached a CAN Log of the key CAN IDs used in the charging process. I will do an updated DBC file later.

The attached file shows the main CAN IDs:

• 0x285 -> Show's request for EVSE to pull in main contactor.
  0x286 -> Show's charge current being ramped up
  0x389 -> Shows charger status such as applied input voltage to the system
  0x38A -> Show's charger status such as pilot signal from the charger (27% in this case)

[arber333]

I am interested very much thank you!

Is there someone out there trying to run the outlander inverter thwough CAN? I will have inverter soon but no Outlander to try the msg with. Anyone can help with msgs?

tnx

[Dilbert]

Yes one of the posters above is doing that at the minute. I believe he has it in a test vehicle and will do some testing soon.

How much did you pay for the outlander inverter? rear or front? are you going to use it with the outlander motor?

[tom91]

If some one helps correlate all relevant candata they have it be usefull.

I currently have the info found in this thread in a .DBC file.
https://www.myoutlanderphev.com/forum/v ... =10&t=3643

Turns out spinning the motors is dead easy, only canbus required really.

[arber333]

Turns out spinning the motors is dead easy, only canbus required really.

Inshallah!

Now I have Outlander inverter in my workshop. I still need to figure out which one is it exactly, but i think it is rear one.
It has only 3 phase cables yes?

A

[tom91]

two round holes and one oval hole on the bottom.

2x 14pin LV connectors on flanges. Then it is a rear.

[pemtek]

Yes I got the inverters and charger working a few months ago, pretty simple set of can bus commands.

I am building an ep3 civic type r with an outlander rear motor mounted in the front using the outlander inverter, charger and batteries.

I know its a serious power downgrade but I had the car already with no engine and gearbox so it was an easy solution.

Phil

[zippy500]

Yes I got the inverters and charger working a few months ago, pretty simple set of can bus commands.

I am building an ep3 civic type r with an outlander rear motor mounted in the front using the outlander inverter, charger and batteries.

I know its a serious power downgrade but I had the car already with no engine and gearbox so it was an easy solution.

Phil

nice project, any build pics ?

[arber333]

two round holes and one oval hole on the bottom.

2x 14pin LV connectors on flanges. Then it is a rear.

Tnx Tom

I have this motor and controler at home now, damn it is a front inverter and rear motor!

Do you have a P/N for the rear one?
Also is driving a front one with CAN realisticaly possible?

[Dilbert]

I got the charger connected to a Prius battery, sitting at 150v.

The system still only pulls on the evse for one second before dropping the evse, when I send the 285 message with b6.

[tom91]

I got the charger connected to a Prius battery, sitting at 150v.

The system still only pulls on the evse for one second before dropping the evse, when I send the 285 message with b6.

Probally because you have too low a DC voltage. The inverters have a cut off of around 200V.

[Dilbert]

Ok I'll try charge the pack via a big resistor.

I can understand the charger not wanting to charge the pack, but I didn't think it would drop out the evse.

I currently have nothing connected to the proxy signal as that normally goes to the phev ecu. As far as I know the evse does not read the proximity signal, it is just a few resistors in the j1772 handle

[arber333]

Hi

Does anyone need Mitsubishi Outlander front inverter? It is PN 9410A095 with dual motor port as well as AC HV connector.
I am willing to part it for 120€. Interested?

I managed to negotiate another shipment, this time i will get correct rear inverter.

A

[arber333]

I started the Motor inverter control thread here...
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=682

[Dilbert]

I've successfully got the Outlander charger to charge the prius battery

I needed to get the battery voltage up closer to 200V, before the charger would keep the EVSE contactor pulled in all of the time. I had to be a little creative to get some current into the battery and bring up the voltage so the charger would not fault out.

I could then command the charge current by using the 0x286 message. For anyone who is interested I've attached a python script which I used with the KVASER CAN tool to send the frames.

So overall, i'm quite happy, can now design something to detect when the handle is attached via the proximity signal and power up the charger. When the charger powers up if I can see the pilot duty I will be able to request that it starts charging.

I can't get the charger to start a second cycle without powering it on/off, so i'm not sure if its faulted out by how i'm stoping the cycle, or it's just part of the code that once it does the charge cycle it won't do it a second time. In my python script which is very much hacked together on the garage floor, i requested that the charger go back to 0 current before dropping the EVSE out, but didn't seem to allow me to start a second charge. I need to review the logs from the car again.

One other thing I learned by accident, i used my 2kw office heater as the pre-charge resistor, and i started a charge cycle with the heater in the circuit. I commanded 2Amps and when i looked down at the meter i had 2A in the battery and the charger output was up over 400V So it looks like this charger will possibly be able to charge higher voltage packs.

My plan is to use the above setup to test the DC:DC Converter next week. There doesn't seem to be any output control for the DC:DC, which is controlled via an enable pin.

Very happy with the above, these chargers are using in a range of PHEVs, so should give a cheap charging and DC solution. It will also easily fit where the spare wheel goes and the AC input cable is long enough that it will go as far as the petrol cap on any car.




0x389 Frame Sent from charger:-
Byte 0 = Battery Voltage (as seen by the charger), needs to be scaled x 2, so can represent up to 255*2V; used to monitor battery during charge
Byte 1 = Charger supply voltage, no scaling needed
Byte 5-6 = Charger Supply Current x 100

0x38A Frame Sent from charger:-
Byte 0 = temp x 2?
Byte 1 = temp x 2?
Byte 3 = EVSE Control Duty Cycle (granny cable ~26 = 26%)


0x285 Frame Sent to the charger, to control EVSE
Byte 2 = 0xb6 pulls in the EVSE

0x286 Frame Sent to charger to control charging:
Byte 0-1 = Voltage setpoint (seems to be ignored, but i'm wondering is there a constant voltage mode which uses this)
Byte 2 = Current in amps x 10

[tom91]

Did you try giving it a higher current request to see when it would stop increasing the output voltage?

[Dilbert]

Did you try giving it a higher current request to see when it would stop increasing the output voltage?

My prius battery isn't in good condition so i didn't want to pass too many amps into it, so I was just using 2-3A targets. But when I charged the battery via the pre-charge (heater), the charger output went to 420V. So it went above the 370V ceiling (3700) which was being commanded.

I'm speculating that there is a constant current mode for the bulk of the charge and then a constant voltage mode that would be used at the end of the charge cycle and during cell balancing etc... but i could be wrong about this.

[tom91]

True, be good to review a can log of a car doing a full charge on the AC charger.

[pemtek]

Doesn't work until about 210v from memory.

Phil

[pemtek]

Oh and yes it charges to 420v

You should be able to stop and start the charge by sending 0 current then it will start again no problem

As you have probably noticed the 370v set in 0x286 has no effect that I can find whatever. In fact if you send 1v it will still charge, however if you set those bytes to 0 it won't charge.

Phil