Toyota Prius Gen 2 Inverter Controller

[ZooKeeper]

post deleted

[konstantin8818]

Board needs to see 1.6V on current inputs to calibrate 0A. If it doesnt see that it will go into current reference error.

Well, that's me, who don't like to read carefully
Really, there are two current sensor inputs on the v3 board.

[arber333]

Well, that's me, who don't like to read carefully
Really, there are two current sensor inputs on the v3 board.

Well then you provide 1.6V to both of them... At least for testing with ACIM motor it should run in manual mode.
But honestly i ran Mazda with both phase cables out of sensor loops. You just have to have a sane slip value setup so your motor does not task IGBTs too much.

[konstantin8818]

I've got some SS49E sensors. If I feed them with 3.3V will I get need signal without any dividers?

[johu]

The Gen 2 IPM current sensors are bipolar output, so with both boards, you need an interface circuit.

Are those sensors mondatory for board to control inverter? Or they needed just for operator to see what currents are go thrue inverter? For that particular case you could use some third party hardware like PowerWatcher or something like that.

If you're running the "sine" software i.e. induction motor you can indeed do away with the current sensors. They'll only serve informational purpose and overload protection is done by Toyotas hardware.

If you want to run FOC you'll need current sensors of course.

I've got some SS49E sensors. If I feed them with 3.3V will I get need signal without any dividers?

It seems it always centers at 2.5V? So better 5V and divide down.

[arber333]

I've got some SS49E sensors. If I feed them with 3.3V will I get need signal without any dividers?

I am not sure. From datasheet it looks like they are centered at 2.5V. I think you will still need a divider. What kind of line resistor do you have on your board? You can solder one pulldown resistor next to it 2x the size. E.g. if line is 3K3 than use 6K8 or if line is 10K use 20K resistor etc.

EDIT: Damien uses 1K resistors with some caps on Bluepill board. You could replace both resistors and use your sensors with 3K3/6K8 divider and 1nF cap.

[SciroccoEV]

Well.... What you need to sense current is conversion into 0 to 5V with center at 2V5 and then reduce this to 3V3 signal.

A non-inverting summing amplifier with a gain of less than unity will do the job in one go.

Gen3 uses unipolar current sensors centred on 5V.

[arber333]

Gen3 uses unipolar current sensors centred on 5V.

I see now yes... but what does Gen2 use for sensors? Are thay also split voltage with 0V center?

[SciroccoEV]

I see now yes... but what does Gen2 use for sensors? Are thay also split voltage with 0V center?

Once again; Bipolar, ie voltage output is both positive and negative, 25mv per amp.

And just to try and keep the length of this thread down; https://daycounter.com/Circuits/OpAmp-L ... fter.phtml

[konstantin8818]

If you want to run FOC you'll need current sensors of course.
It seems it always centers at 2.5V? So better 5V and divide down.

Yep, the plan is to use Damien's board with my induction motor and your board with Lexus MGR.
And about simple divider: Is this correct scheme I draw based on your sensor board but with SS49E insteard of MLX91205?

Schematic_current_sense_board.png (6.96 KiB) Viewed 11244 times

[kiwifiat]

I see now yes... but what does Gen2 use for sensors? Are thay also split voltage with 0V center?

Once again; Bipolar, ie voltage output is both positive and negative, 25mv per amp.

And just to try and keep the length of this thread down; https://daycounter.com/Circuits/OpAmp-L ... fter.phtml

And the gen2 current sensors are 15Vpp so you would need to change R2 and R4 in the daycounter schematic to 22k and it would be preferable to use a 1.65V reference. Cheapest option is to use a 3.3V reference followed by a precision 50:50 resistor divider as 1.65V references seem ridiculously expensive.

[Berdi]

My board has arrived Thank you, Damien! Now just need to wait when contactors make it to Belarus, as they seems to stuck in Israel for over two weeks already...


Good time and health to everyone !! Konstantin Congratulations on your purchase .. !! May I contact you?

[RetroZero]

To control the Gen 2 inverter, there is either the non populated Damien board (at present) , and order parts according to BOM, or Rev 3 Inverter kit from Johannes (populated), with wifi included? Starting to get a little overwhelming with everything to anticipate and order, but so exciting too.

Correct.
I want to point out that populated board was sent to me as act of kindness from Damien. (or just to end my whining) As in my black hole country you must to go inside out to find some of the components, and still will not find some of them. I was looking forward to spent few evenings with soldering iron but kind man spared me from that misery
BTW I've started the board from power supply and connected to it via wifi. It survived our postal service and works fine.

Thanks for the info, awesome job getting it connected. Must be a good feeling seeing those LED 's flashing

[RetroZero]

Sorry if this is a stupid question....( Been trying to find the info this afternoon),
To control the Gen 2 inverter, there is either the non populated Damien board (at present) , and order parts according to BOM, or Rev 3 Inverter kit from Johannes (populated), with wifi included? Starting to get a little overwhelming with everything to anticipate and order, but so exciting too.

Neither board alone will result in a finalised inverter you can install in a vehicle. The Gen 2 IPM current sensors are bipolar output, so with both boards, you need an interface circuit. With the Blue Pill board you're limited to motors with a quadrature encoder.

Well the plan is Prius Gen 2 and 3 transaxles with the present board set up. I will go wiki hunting instead of asking the obvious question... (give a man a fish ) If I have to order and solder, so be it. With total lock down, might be a while before I can get anything

[SciroccoEV]

And the gen2 current sensors are 15Vpp so you would need to change R2 and R4 in the daycounter schematic to 22k and it would be preferable to use a 1.65V reference. Cheapest option is to use a 3.3V reference followed by a precision 50:50 resistor divider as 1.65V references seem ridiculously expensive.

The ADC uses the 3V3 supply rail as its reference and the current inputs are assumed (in the code) to be zero at pwm startup.

The offset voltage source need be no more complicated than a 1/2 supply rail divider followed by a buffer amp.

[MattsAwesomeStuff]

I will go wiki hunting instead of asking the obvious question... (give a man a fish )

I wrote 95% of the wiki and all of this current sensor stuff is over my head and not something I'd gotten to in my build yet. You won't find your answer there, or, far as I know, written down anywhere else. This thread contains all the info I've ever seen where it's mentioned. I'm happy to update the wiki if/when I can understand more of a procedure on what to do.

[RetroZero]

I feel the same - way out of my depth with current sensor stuff. Glad there are some professors of electronics to work on them.

[RetroZero]

I will go wiki hunting instead of asking the obvious question... (give a man a fish )

I wrote 95% of the wiki and all of this current sensor stuff is over my head and not something I'd gotten to in my build yet. You won't find your answer there, or, far as I know, written down anywhere else. This thread contains all the info I've ever seen where it's mentioned. I'm happy to update the wiki if/when I can understand more of a procedure on what to do.

So found out that the resolver is made by Singlsyn - variable reluctance brushless resolver. Doesn't help with knowing if it is linked to a quadrature encoder. If anyone has the answer, I bow in humble gratitude.

[arber333]

So found out that the resolver is made by Singlsyn - variable reluctance brushless resolver. Doesn't help with knowing if it is linked to a quadrature encoder. If anyone has the answer, I bow in humble gratitude.

Any photo?

[ZooKeeper]

If you're running the "sine" software i.e. induction motor you can indeed do away with the current sensors. They'll only serve informational purpose and overload protection is done by Toyotas hardware.

If you want to run FOC you'll need current sensors of course.

I'll take that as gospel and continue!

Thanks!

[RetroZero]

So just to make sure I understand, Prius has Permanent Magnet Synchronous Motor, thus NOT induction. So need FOC and current sensors to run the Gen 2 inverter and transaxle?

[johu]

Yes indeed. Didn't read all messages so didn't know you were using the Transaxle

[jnsaff]

Would either of these be suitable as the current sensors?

I’ve been offered them at a fairly reasonable price.

https://www.lem.com/sites/default/files ... w_sd02.pdf

https://www.lem.com/sites/default/files ... _s_124.pdf

[SciroccoEV]

Would either of these be suitable as the current sensors?

I’ve been offered them at a fairly reasonable price.

Less than £1 each?

[jnsaff]

Is that what they’re worth or is this the benchmark for other solutions?