Toyota GT86 with Nissan Leaf Motor (Update 11/2022: 160Kw)

[Zapatero]

I need help where to connect the charger:

Before the DC switch
or
after the DC switch and have it turned on while charging and off afterwards by the BMS?

I bought an Orion BMS by the way - most expensive but also most easy route!

[Zapatero]

Updates

i've drawn an adapter plate in CAD to mount on top of the Inverter:



we welded the boxes for the batteries:


Also i installed the brake booster with the underpressure Valve. Works like a charm!!!


Installed the water pump and the water hoses. I've used cables out of the original Harness that i connected to the Subaru plug. Once everything is wired up i want it to look as stock as possible.

[kiwifiat]

Congrats, looks like an OEM job. Love the tig welding on the boxes.

[arber333]

What is that box on top of inverter? he one with cooling pipes? Is that Leaf DCDC? How did you get it to run? Do you have CAN commands?

tnx

Arber

[Zapatero]

What is that box on top of inverter? he one with cooling pipes? Is that Leaf DCDC? How did you get it to run? Do you have CAN commands?

tnx

Arber

It's the Tesla Model S Gen 3 DCDC converter

[NIMMOEV]

Excellent progress, looks really clean, very OEM, you done a really good job on the battery boxes

[Zapatero]

Actually i had planned to have the car running till end of this month, but i've had some awesome times with my kids so the progress slowed down.
But i'm almost there, all i have to do is to install the batteries in the engine bay and wire up the Orion BMS completely.

Wired up the BMS in the boxes where the fuel tank was. This was a very hard part as the space is tight and everything has to fit perfectly to ensure the necessary safety:




Then i installed attachment points for the wires that run in corrugatet pipes for additional protection.



The Batteries in the trunk are installed, too. I welded a box in where 24 batteries take place in. Also i've installed the safety cutoff switch in this place. The BMS will be behind the cutoff switch. I still have to wire up the batteries and the bms in the trunk, but that's the easiest job.


When the trunk mat is back in, it looks like OEM:



I also took care of the junction box where the DC-DC converter and the power lines are connected to:



And finally i invested in a used nissan leaf gerbox to get the spline as i wasn't happy with the clutch spline solution.


Happy new year to all!

[Zapatero]

A while ago i already installed the plug for the charger. As slow charging will be the most used variant i've put the Type 2 Socket where the fuel tank filler was. Also the Chademo-Socket would have been to big. The Chademo socket will find a place in the front of the vehicle, but i'll figure that out later.






Also i've installed 6 more batteries in another custom made box under the motor.



I have the BMS wired up except for 6 batteries on the passenger side (right side) which i'm waiting for another box to be laser cut and bend so i can weld and install it. But i've connected the momentarily 325 Volts to the Precharge unit and the DC switch to test the Setup. Unfortunately the Motor won't start spinning though i have everything setup and connected and no errors. But the DC-Switch won't close when i send the start signal.

Hopefully will figure that out on monday with Johannes

[Emotive]

Looks very promising. This beauty is gonna be a joy to drive. I would love to see this IRL. All the Best, Mike

[arber333]

Good job!!!

Did you calibrate voltage sensor board? There is procedure to set voltage sensor gain and offset:
https://openinverter.org/wiki/Schematic ... sor_boards

[Lotol]

This project looks amazing! Congratulations. I’m thinking of going down the same route of using the involute spline in the Leaf gearbox for the coupler.

[Zapatero]

Thanks!

Took it out of the gearbox today - threw the rest away. This spline is one pretty expensive piece of metal
But better than risking shaving off the theeth of the motor spline with my not so perfect clutch spline attempt.

Handing it over to my brother in law. he'll use the lathe to make this snug into the coupler like he did before.

[Zapatero]

Good job!!!

Did you calibrate voltage sensor board? There is procedure to set voltage sensor gain and offset:
https://openinverter.org/wiki/Schematic ... sor_boards

I did not, will talk about that with johannes. Thank you very much for your feedback!

[arber333]

You know i have shed a lot of spline teeth on clutch center piece. And this event never even showed on transmission input shaft.
Those shaft teeth are heat treated, nitrated and made of tough steel. Compared to them the clutch centerpiece will allways break. It is made to be sacrificial piece.

But you can still get the gearbox piece and put it into copying mill to read the spline properties. This will enable us to replicate it or find correct clutch.

BTW: did you try to fit that centerpiece to EM57 and EM61 motor?

[Zapatero]

I will try to fit it when i have the EM57 out, but i'm still looking for a spare gearbox on ebay.

Saturday i managed to run the car for the very first time. Still some minor things on the can to solve, but nothing that is very complicated.

[Boxster EV]

Excellent project. I have battery box envy.

[Zapatero]

Finally the new adaptor based on the original Leaf Spline is finished. Unfortunately i don't know any shop that could replicate the Spline so i didn't have it scanned or something.

Old vs. New. here i found out that the original Leaf Spline has some play, too. Less than the clutch spline based adaptor, but still some play. In my opinion the reason why the Honda Clutch Spline doesn't work very well is the length. The Leaf spline is about twice the length as my first attempt with the clutch spline. If one would use two of the Honda clutch splines in a row it would be WAY better.


New adaptor mounted on the motor:





You've seen that before: The Gearbox adaptor


Here one can see my battery box under the motor. The cables arent routed finally as to the left one box is missing and i connected the cables together to have the possibility to drive the car. The switch gear will be put in it's own protective aluminum box, of course.


I connected the Tesla DC-DC charger and figured that it wouldn't charge. So i looked up another threat in the "general" section on this forum where i found a video. There someone explained that the Hardware-Enable-Pin has to be put on +12V. It's the red cable in the picture. I did so and now the DC-DC is working, too.


The former owner of the Toyota GT86 painted the OEM-Wheels gold. I Didn't like that and decided to put new alloys in the car. After a lot of thinking i came to the conclusion that "High Voltage Orange" would be an awesome color for an EV-Conversion. In a year i propably think "why orange" but for now i think it's great and i still can have them painted in another color.

[Zapatero]

After putting everything back together i had a tuning session with Johannes today. Thanks a lot, you where - as always - lot of help to me!
Now the car can drive but i still have to sort out minor issues:

• Pedal response is not as good as in an original Leaf.
  # Solved, just adjustet the parameter throtramp to 10
• Acceleration is to weak, worse than in an original Leaf. But i still have to charge the batteries and put in the 6 missing module, so that could make a lot of difference.
  # Solved: cranked up throtcur to 4,7 for the moment, expecting more here for more power. Also it feels better with 380 volts on a 80% charge than wit 270 Volts and 6 missing Modules.
• Regen is to strong, the rear wheels stopped spinning and the rear end started to slide. It was very cold and the car has UHP tires mounted, so that makes it worse. Still regen has to be less on an RWD car until you press the brake compared to an FWD car i think.
  ' Solved: brkmax reduced for off acc pedal regen, brknompedal reduced for brake pedal regen
• Still have to connect the Eltek-Charger and the Orion BMS and some other minor things. But i'm getting there
  # done that
  
  
  ### updated 31. January 2020

[Zapatero]

I think the GT86 will work best in third gear:



This is the Leaf. I have added the second gear to scale the diagram to a comparable size.

[langoo]

I think the GT86 will work best in third gear:

Picture

This is the Leaf. I have added the second gear to scale the diagram to a comparable size.

Picture

What's that for software/website/tool?

[Zapatero]

I think the GT86 will work best in third gear:

Picture

This is the Leaf. I have added the second gear to scale the diagram to a comparable size.

Picture

What's that for software/website/tool?

https://www.blocklayer.com/rpm-gear.aspx

[celeron55]

When you're doing highway driving, consider this:

Whichever gear in the transmission is 1:1 will probably give best highway range, albeit with sluggish low speed acceleration.

You get rid of gearing losses and also gain some efficiency in splashing the transmission oil around less.

In my conversion 4th (1:1) compared to 2nd (2.02:1) gains almost 15% in efficiency at 80-100km/h. My final ratio is 4.1:1 if I recall correctly.

The Leaf inverter and motor are perfectly happy at continuous 25kW at 3000rpm. Actually, they're perfectly happy when being floored continuously at any rpm, the torque just isn't very much. Well, it's similar in torque to a, say, small turbo diesel or some such. Those have very artificial torque limits these days.

[SciroccoEV]

Whichever gear in the transmission is 1:1 will probably give best highway range, albeit with sluggish low speed acceleration.

How many manufacturers use a layshaft transmission these days, they're nearly all 'indirect' 'boxes. Maybe a few legacy pickup and 4WD designs? Even in a layshaft 'box, all the gears are turning, it's just that none of them are transmitting torque.

[celeron55]

I'd imagine many older RWD conversions will have a transmission like that. Mine is almost brand new for a Toyota, being from 1992.

Who'd convert a FWD anyway, boring!

[Zapatero]

we've welded the last box and put it in yesterday. Now all 48 batteries are in the car. I also wired the BMS completely except for the J1772 of the charger. Will do that soon, so i'm also able to actually charge the car and finally drive it.



Last battery box in place:


New wheels in high voltage orange