[DRIVING] Porsche Boxster 986 Tesla conversion [FINISHED]

[Boxster EV]

Very nice! I hope you don't mind if I take inspiration from this

Have you thought about A/C compressors? In my Boxster I managed to find a couple of signals which tracked AC demand nicely; the AC control unit directly controlled the OEM compressor clutch but it also took advice from the instrument panel (so that wire had to be disconnected). I'll see if I can find the wires again and let you know.
-Isaac

Cheers!

Thanks for the offer but I removed all of the AC lines and related hardware. It's a convertible and there really is no need for A/C in the UK 90% of the time. The added space after removing the hardware was also welcome (in front of the scuttle panel). I placed the control box for my EVSE and and 240vac relay coil there.

[Boxster EV]

Today I passed 800 electrical miles in the Porsche. The original petrol engine died on 95,801 and I’m now on 96,640. Car is fantastic. I haven’t visited a petrol station (for one of our ICE cars) since March.

During these electron powered miles I’ve had very little issue with the car. There was one mishap with a miscalculation of range and I had to nurse the car home, then another when my 12v battery decided not to charge whilst 10 miles away from civilization (old 12v battery not holding charge), however other than that it’s been trouble free.

I’m still getting an over current fault when pulling away from a standing start too quickly. This morning I stopped to wave a truck through on a tight bit of road, instead he returned the gesture, I went to pull away a little too hard and hit over current. The time waiting for the negative contactor to close before you can start pre-charge / ignition on felt like 5 minutes when it reality it was just 5 seconds and that feeling when you visualize the need to get out and push. in the end, no harm done and I went on my way.

I think the issue is boost related but despite lowering that parameter the flash doesn’t seem to always save it. I need to dig into this when time permits. Obviously it's not high on my priorities but it would be good to pull away at a green light without initially nurturing the throttle pedal.

Not that I’m into racing but a Porsche 911 decided to try his luck a few days ago. That didn’t end well for him.

[Boxster EV]

Latest update: my to do list on the car hasn't really been reduced. I've been too busy driving and enjoying the thing. I also pushed it to 58 miles on one charge last week which was pleasing.

Speaking of charge, I recently bought a Gen 2 Tesla charger for about 50% of the price they were going for a year ago. This'll be replacing my volt charger and hack job of an EVSE control (which does the job but was always temporary). Undecided where the new charger will be mounted, however as the Tesla unit isn't IP rated, it'll either be going in the frunk or the boot (along with the batteries).

I also need to install a charge locking pin, charge indication lights and get the stock dash gauges working (thanks to Tom Debree for providing the CAN DBC file).

I'd really like to resolve the OC issue mentioned in my previous post, as it's really the only thing holding the car back from a performance perspective.


Also threw a GoPro under the boot floor.

[Isaac96]

Hi,

It's possible your boost is too low or too high. I'm getting OC events (with Siemens drivetrain) when starting in 3rd gear or higher, due to the jitter of the motor (although I can burnout in 1st...)

-Isaac

[Boxster EV]

Hi,

It's possible your boost is too low or too high. I'm getting OC events (with Siemens drivetrain) when starting in 3rd gear or higher, due to the jitter of the motor (although I can burnout in 1st...)

-Isaac

This sounds like a similar issue. Doesn’t make much difference if I adjust the boost.

[Boxster EV]

params (19).txt

(1.45 KiB) Downloaded 146 times

This is my current file

[Boxster EV]

An experienced forum member was kind enough to spend about 30 minutes remotely tuning my drive unit further last week. Changes made to boost, fslipmax, fweak, throtramp, idlemode on, idlespeed and speedkp. Difference is night and day and I’m delighted to report that I can now actually give the motor full power from a standing start without hitting overcurrent fault.

I’ll post my latest params in the Tesla parameter thread shortly.

In other news, I nearly have everything ready to install the Tesla Gen 2 charger. Just waiting on some 2mm2 HV cable. Charger is going to be mounted in the frunk under a false floor, like so:

Also, a few other random pictures. The medium size battery bank is being removed from the boot and being fitted in the engine bay area in the next few months (yes it does fit and will go inside a IP battery box). Although the range on this build is poor, it’s well worth the sacrifice to have max power from the motor (and volt batteries don’t break the bank):

[Isaac96]

Awesome! How's the 0-60 time?
Freeing up that boot space is great, maybe you can throw more batteries in later (hint hint).

-Isaac

[Boxster EV]

Awesome! How's the 0-60 time?
Freeing up that boot space is great, maybe you can throw more batteries in later (hint hint).

-Isaac

I don’t have the means to test the 0-60 properly but I’d hazard a guess it’s in the mid to high 3s at present. I’ve got the slip at 3 just to prevent wheels breaking traction under hard pulls.

I don’t have an LSD in my drive unit but that’s definitely on the list. The DU may have to come out soon to fit the new battery boxes, so that’ll be a good excuse to change the diff.

The low range doesn’t bother me much, as my daily commute is only a 30 mile round trip. The volt batteries easily cope even when pushing on.

Looking forward to getting the gen 2 Tesla charger installed, meaning a full charge will no longer have to take all night.

What are you doing for cabin heating in your 986? That’s something I’ll need to address in the next few months.

[Boxster EV]

Made a very tentative start on my Tesla gen 2 charger. I’m going to post my falterings here rather than the Tesla charger thread as I don't want to clutter it up. However, if there’s anything new or relevant I’ll post it in the Tesla thread.

Ideally I want to get the Tesla charger working before decommissioning the Chevy volt charger set-up for obvious reasons (it would annoy the hell out out of me if the car was suddenly off the road for a few days or weeks). As it's presently working a treat:

So,the charger is going in the frunk with with DC cables running to the rear of the car via the cabin rather than underneath (neater solution). I'm paralleling the 6x DC 2mm2 cables from the charger, via three 20amp DC solar fuses, to 2x DC 6mm2 shielded cables which will then run to the rear of the car, inside orange conduit. Fusing the 6mm2 cable again just before it's terminated onto the battery inside the HV junction box.

The attachment 87EC2B71-8927-49D1-A6C9-418AC00C5859.jpeg is no longer available

The cable goes through the fire wall where the clutch line used to live. It then runs underneath the auto selector, handbrake assy and through the rear bulk-head hole where the gear cables were previously routed and into the mid-engine bay.

What I didn’t realise was how bad at soldering pcbs I would be. Shameful but functional (i hope). The V5 board is in and powered up with 12v on the bench.

The attachment 43F8CB41-AC99-4672-BCDECA3C022BA55E.jpeg is no longer available

[Boxster EV]

I’ve had battery boxes fabricated to bring this contraption closer to what a commercial conversion company would achieve. The main purpose is to ensure the car is safer in every respect and capable of driving in inclement weather.

Battery weight is circa 190kg and now 70% of that will be between the front and rear axle. The remaining battery brick will go under the boot floor. This’ll mean I’ll be able to maintain 100% use of the boot space front and rear.

[Boxster EV]

A few pictures and meandering thoughts following my recent Tesla gen 2 charger installation with V5 logic board.

-Installation instructions are all on Damien’s GitHub or in the Tesla charger threads. I read both thoroughly before I started and printed off the installation instructions.

-I used 2mm2 HV wire to run from each charger module and then paralleled them in a separate HVJB nearby. 6mm2 was used to connect directly to the battery via DC HV solar fuses at both charger and HVJB.

- Having a good quality Usart1 lead is necessary. You’ll need some 2.54 pin heads to solder to PCB. It’s helpful to familiarise yourself with ST-Link V2 programming and buy a cheap dongle and fly-leads from eBay for firmware updates.

-Before connecting the AC or DC sides, I configured the charger for testing. Reduced the AC current down to 3amps and set auto enable to off. Once testing is complete, I continued with the installation and configured my preferred settings.

-When incorporating the EVSE wiring, I found out that the charger wants 12vdc a few seconds before applying AC current. I am leaving my charger permanently connected to the 12v for now.

-A good ground on the charger and EVSE earth connection is fundamental. I didn’t at first and Elon was seriously upsetting my Rolec wall pod.

-As I’ve installed this for single phase charging only, I beefed up my L1 and N with 6mm2 cable. The standard 1.5mm2 was getting a little warm

-Note that charge termination happens about 3vdc above termination voltage at which point the EVSE will stop providing AC and return to READY state. For example, I wish my charge to terminate at 392vdc which is about 4.10v per cell. I set my termination voltage at 389VDC to achieve this.

All done!

In conclusion I’m charging at about 10amps across each charge module (I have a 32amp EVSE at home). This is taking about two hours to charge my 16kwh pack. The fact that charging speed is now comparatively so fast, I should be able to comfortably run all my associated systems off the 12v battery during charging (switched on by the 240vac relay coil) without the need to keep the 12v battery topped up.

I still have some work to do in terms of integrating with SIMPBMS.

I'll fit the car's spare wheel cover over the above kit to conceal it.

[Jack Bauer]

Very nice setup. I have simpbms connected to the charger 12v supply. Normally it does nothing but if the charger decides to not shutdown or mini-Tom spots a problem he can kill the charger:)

[Costin J]

Hello! Can you please help me identify the pins of the motor encoder connector? I know the 23pin connector but i don't know the pins on the motor encoder. Thank you!

I also purchased the 4-pin encoder connector for the LDU from https://zero-ev.co.uk/ and plan to use shielded cat6 network cable to connect this to the 23pin connector:

https://zero-ev.co.uk/product/tesla-lar ... model-s-x/
[/quote]

[Boxster EV]

Hello! Can you please help me identify the pins of the motor encoder connector? I know the 23pin connector but i don't know the pins on the motor encoder. Thank you!

I also purchased the 4-pin encoder connector for the LDU from https://zero-ev.co.uk/ and plan to use shielded cat6 network cable to connect this to the 23pin connector:

https://zero-ev.co.uk/product/tesla-lar ... model-s-x/

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=76#p1026

[joromy]

A few pictures and meandering thoughts following my recent Tesla gen 2 charger installation with V5 logic board.

I have the same orientation of the charger, and I have trouble with overheating of the top module.
I'm wondering if it's possible to make some air bleed or vent in the top, to get coolant flow?

[Boxster EV]

A few pictures and meandering thoughts following my recent Tesla gen 2 charger installation with V5 logic board.

I have the same orientation of the charger, and I have trouble with overheating of the top module.
I'm wondering if it's possible to make some air bleed or vent in the top, to get coolant flow?

I’m not having this issue, in fact the charger only feels a little warm to the touch.

Could be due to a few reasons:

- I’m running a fairly large radiator AND I suspect the LDU is an efficient cooler. I was also super fastidious on bleeding the system and did so with the charger in a horizontal position before moving it into the final vertical position.

-I’m not running the charger at full capacity due to my 32amp EVSE limitations.

[canadasconvert]

As per my post above, the below image shows the mounting of the Hella UP28 vacuum pump (2009 Vauxhall Astra) in the Boxster mid-engine-bay. The system incorporates a Dracarys vacuum pressure switch and non return valve - everything purchased off eBay. The vacuum switch effectively provides a ground to the relay once the system has reached pressure and shuts off the pump. I used one of the existing defunct relays from the ICE relay box and wired it all in to look as OEM as possible (the wiring isn't yet finished). I managed to re-purpose most of the existing vacuum lines and just purchased a little extra to incorporate the new hardware. Total cost of everything was about £50

 

Everything works as expected. The only modification I think I'll need to make is to provide a vacuum reservoir to the system, as presently the relay can flick on and off a little too quickly with the slightest of pressure change and I think this would be improved with more volume in the system.

 20190901_175713_zpsfthnugrp.JPG

The power steering pump is a TRW unit from a Vauxhall Zafira. The mountings I've used are a little Heath Robinson however I've managed to use existing hardware and mounting holes. I've also managed (just about) to use the existing high pressure line without any modification whatsoever! The low pressure side required extra tubing. The pump spools up really well and seems to work fine - again I used an existing relay, 50 amp fuse and have wired everything to look OEM.

20190901_175744_zpsnfxlfini.JPG

Here's a picture of what the car looks like underneath with just the coolant, PS, brake and A/C lines in place. I'm intending in using the existing fuel line clips to mount the high voltage cables which'll run to the cars front batteries and type 2 charge port.



Finally, the car is due have the drive unit mounted at a local race-car welding specialist at the end of this month. The chap doing it seems very competent and open minded so I'll post his details up if everything goes well.

 

Thoughts so far = EV conversions take more decision making, time and money than I originally thought. And, it's a very long road. 

Well yes Dracarys switch can act up. But really it is just a mechanical switch with brass body, membrane, nut and spring. You torque the internal nut and increase pressure so equilibrium is reached sooner or later.
Whenever it acts up i remove it from my car and clean it up and reset the spring. This spring sometimes wedges against membrane and switch is allways on or wont work. After i cleaned it, it works as before.

I just don't want to have to worry about 'servicing' it every few months. Better to just buy the unit above and be done with it. Also, the multicomp version is adjustable. I've done 250 miles on the car since fitting and very pleased with the braking performance.

I'm just embarking on doing a similar Tesla conversion. Currently the motor, tranny and gas tank are out. I have the Tesla LDU, Kia soul batteries, charger BMS and other misc. pieces. Mechanically I should be fine, but I will struggle electrically.
I am going to have lots of questions. Stay tuned
First question is what location in the fuse/electrical box did you use to power your vacuum pump and PS pump?

[johu]

Hi and welcome just a quick note: please quote a bit more precisely

[arber333]

Well yes Dracarys switch can act up. But really it is just a mechanical switch with brass body, membrane, nut and spring. You torque the internal nut and increase pressure so equilibrium is reached sooner or later.
Whenever it acts up i remove it from my car and clean it up and reset the spring. This spring sometimes wedges against membrane and switch is allways on or wont work. After i cleaned it, it works as before.

I'm just embarking on doing a similar Tesla conversion. Currently the motor, tranny and gas tank are out. I have the Tesla LDU, Kia soul batteries, charger BMS and other misc. pieces. Mechanically I should be fine, but I will struggle electrically.
I am going to have lots of questions. Stay tuned
First question is what location in the fuse/electrical box did you use to power your vacuum pump and PS pump?

Hi

Let me update this info. I absolutely hate the mentioned switch. For a time it seemed it would only require little maintenance (WD40 spray) with copper shimm as seal and it would work nicely for 3 months. But lately it started to act up. I think membrane would stick and switch wouldnt conduct. Then servo would dry up and brakes would be heavy... I could still brake effectively, but with a heavy foot...
It now requires for me to strike it in the morning (with no13 spanner ) and it would work through the day...

I ordered the volvo vacuum switch and i will test it when it arrives. Maybe it will fare better?

Location for vacuum pump should be somewhere you can easily have access to in case you need to reattach hoses or exchange the pump.
You want to use some lenght of hose so it acts as a buffer for your vacuum. Also dont forget to put non-return valve before the switch!

Hydraulic pump you need to put somewhere where you will be able to fill up with oil if required. Also be advised you need to seal the pump from the chassis as that noise is unbearable. Use original mount if possible and adapt/weld it to where you want it.

I put all my relais inside one contact box near the original relay/fuse box. See here: https://leafdriveblog.wordpress.com/201 ... ntact-box/
I put one 80A fuse on the side to supply the current to everything including HPAS pump. From there i pulled various small fuses and relays and wired sensors.
When i was absolutely sure what all the engine wires are for i cut them near the connectors and spliced/extended them with numbered wires. those i pulled inside the contact box. This way i have access to all sensors in the car and if i find out i forgot to implement something those wires will still be there and i woulod know what no. they are on. So dont cut anything untill you are absolutely sure you can simulate engine running!

[Boxster EV]

I'm just embarking on doing a similar Tesla conversion. Currently the motor, tranny and gas tank are out. I have the Tesla LDU, Kia soul batteries, charger BMS and other misc. pieces. Mechanically I should be fine, but I will struggle electrically.
I am going to have lots of questions. Stay tuned
First question is what location in the fuse/electrical box did you use to power your vacuum pump and PS pump?

Just to respond your specific questions: For the brake booster I repurposed a defunct relay from the relay 2 support panel which is in the boot/trunk. You could use 2, 5, 8 or 10.

As per Arber DO NOT use the Dracarys switch as it's junk. Instead use the replacement one I referenced in this thread. I placed the switch in the frunk near the main cylinder here:

[canadasconvert]

Nice work. I have the same vacuum and power steering pump units.
Are you saying the brake booster doesn't have enough volume itself to prevent the vacuum pump switching on and off excessively?
Or do you mean as soon as you touch the brakes and the booster vacuum drops a bit the electric pump comes on immediately?

I'm in Canada and doing the same conversion. (Except my steering wheel is on the proper side) LOL
For the power steering motor/pump, I have been looking at ones that came out of a Volvo S40. These are easier to get here in North America. Does anyone know if this would be a good fit?

[arber333]

Nice work. I have the same vacuum and power steering pump units.
Are you saying the brake booster doesn't have enough volume itself to prevent the vacuum pump switching on and off excessively?
Or do you mean as soon as you touch the brakes and the booster vacuum drops a bit the electric pump comes on immediately?

I'm in Canada and doing the same conversion. (Except my steering wheel is on the proper side) LOL
For the power steering motor/pump, I have been looking at ones that came out of a Volvo S40. These are easier to get here in North America. Does anyone know if this would be a good fit?

Here you go, pump from S50. Run in backup mode without CAN. If you can run it with RPM and speed feedback please post your results here.
https://www.diyelectriccar.com/threads/ ... 828/page-5
I am not sure if others are the same...

[arber333]

Some more update on the vacuum switch...

Since i sprayed the insides of the switch with welding nozzle spray (anti spatter) i got much less freezes of my Vacuum pump. It really seems like a contact would weld itself to the membrane with use. I dont have this happening with Mazda MX3 though i use the same kind of switch.

[arber333]

Some more update on the vacuum switch...

I replaced my vacuum switch with Volvo XC90 switch. See here...
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=335&p=19239#p19239