I have some ideas related to my situation that i've posted in this thread. My board mfg. company didn't install the c30 capacitor part of the reset switch circuit. They said the capacitor kept oxidizing. I was under the impression that it was only related to the physical reset button, so I've gone on without it, thinking I could power cycle the board to reset it. I don't think that is true, now. Check out my other post for the super-long-winded explanation of the idea. I'll be testing it later today -Bryson wrote: ↑Sun May 24, 2020 5:27 am Bummer. I highly doubt there are hardware variances within part number + revs on the Tesla side so it would be interesting to isolate which ones are most compatible with the replacement board and which ones have issues. I’d bet a small sum that there’sa common denominator here
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=78&p=11445#p11445