EV_Builder wrote: ↑Mon Jun 13, 2022 1:10 pm

Boxster EV wrote: ↑Mon Jun 13, 2022 12:39 pm In my opinion these seals are of inferior quality compared with OE and have not been tested long term.

Since Tesla doesn't make seals who makes them for them?

That is the question. Somebody must know.

In my opinion these seals are of inferior quality compared with OE and have not been tested long term.

Per the above, check your connections. Then with a multimeter check that you have power to the board. Info on board layout can be found by selecting ‘view code’ from here:

https://github.com/damienmaguire/Tesla-Front-Drive-Unit

fredd90 wrote: ↑Fri Jun 03, 2022 11:22 am
A litte error will be fatal because that you have 400vdc in to that little pcb.

Your’re not wrong - IGBT driver is fried. The part is currently out of stock.

remy_martian wrote: ↑Sun Jun 05, 2022 6:41 am Am curious how you X-creased the walls?

No idea. It was done by a local engineering shop.

Thanks, the spec sheet is helpful. I’ll start playing.
Not sure I’ve got the cajonas to desolder the whole PCB and replace everything en masse like you did.

This is for the Opel/Vauxhall/Chevy Volt. It is designed to take the smaller of the three modules. Might be useful for an alternative pack too. Of interest to anyone? 1C308909-1FD6-44D5-8155-5B960FE3E486.jpeg 017F5C45-F374-4014-B1A4-61EB5096E57D.jpeg 744534D1-7501-433B-B5B9-DF33DBC1E1DF.jpeg 6D657DD...

Bigpie wrote: ↑Thu Jun 02, 2022 10:59 am The Telegraph are covering the issue over the Jubilee weekend. I've had them round taking photos etc.
285214640_751864645988772_9075892682863589779_n.jpeg

Fair play to you mate for persisting.

I’m playing with one of these on the bench out of a spare inverter. Does anyone have any specs or guidance on fault finding them?

I’m having an ongoing issue with sine UDC randomly measuring too low when switching from waitstart to run. Any advice gratefully received.

Well it’s been an interesting time of late… When I first completed the conversion give or take a few small issues, the car ran faultlessly for a year or so, which certainly led me into a false sense of security, as over the past four months it’s just been one challenge after another. The biggest cat...

What does UDC say in spot values? Is it close to actual voltage?

Perhaps unrelated but your UDCMIN and UDCSW settings are the same.

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this. Looks like the problem was operator error. The 12V battery was only putting out 10V. This is why the pre-charge contactor didn't close and why the UDC was not displaying full battery pack voltage through wifi. I connected a fully charged battery and got t...

To prevent this from happening again, I made a direct connection to the ST programming pins that can be accessed (fished out) where the LDU HV terminals are accessed (by removing the plastic orange cover). It’s a bit of a hack and 5v still needs to be sent through the 23pin connector but works. No m...

P.S.Mangelsdorf wrote: ↑Thu May 12, 2022 1:30 pm

I don't know if anyone has successfully replaced just the IGBTs on a Tesla inverter, though I was hoping to try some time next year. Several people have replace the entire damaged power stage.

They have. It’s a sticky in this forum.

Edit: viewtopic.php?t=1625

Thanks for the replies. EV Builder - I will be measuring the phases tomorrow. If the IGBT's are damaged, can they be replaced? How difficult is this? I am hoping the issue is just the Open Inverter board. I am concerned that the inverter is damaged and the whole motor/inverter will need replacement...

Vsevolod wrote: ↑Fri May 06, 2022 9:15 pm

Boxster EV wrote: ↑Fri May 06, 2022 3:49 pm I could be wrong but I think 56 is the coolant outlet seal.

How is your car and seal?

It’s no longer leaking with the speedi sleeve fitted. However I don’t think it will last long-term.

I could be wrong but I think 56 is the coolant outlet seal.

Thanks, but the rotor seal doesn’t seem to be illustrated on that drawing? I suspect they consider it an integrated part.

This is the seal in question (it includes the metal outer):

I can’t see any visual issues with the IGBT on that phase.

What do you mean by “manually closing the contactors”?

So UDC shows no voltage. Are you sure you have HV at the inverter?

Can you post a list of your parameters and what setting for udcmin? Also advise what firmware you’re running.

Can you make a graph with the WiFi dongle? Maybe that helps? I also would disconnect everything else en check if it reproduces. I tried to replicate the fault about a dozen times this evening. Of course it played ball every time. 🤨 224C737D-F92A-4A67-9082-6395272EF80A.png Edit: couldn’t replicate t...

The mod looks interesting.

Will the copper tube connect to the coolant outlet at the bottom? If so, won’t the flow push coolant backwards and back up into the encoder area? Maybe I misunderstood.

Are main relais switched on when you turn on the inverter? Looks/feels like turning on makes the voltage drop itself. The inverter is on and pre-charge completed which registers the correct voltage (pic 1 above). Upon closing the main contactor the logic board is measuring a voltage drop either spu...

Quick question. My UDC at pre-charge always reads accurately, however very occasionally when closing the main contactor I get an overcurrent because UDC drops significantly when going from waitstart to run. I'd love to resolve it but short of checking the LDU current sensing connections, I've run ou...

Vsevolod wrote: ↑Thu Apr 21, 2022 6:07 pm Hello! I am also repairing a large motor now, I ordered a ceimin 30x55x8 oil seal, do you know if it is possible to find an original or high-quality such oil seal in the USA? Since I'm not in the US

I'm not aware of any OE suppliers of that seal. Please post here if you find one!