johu wrote: ↑Fri Jul 10, 2020 1:05 pm Added Prius Gen2 parameters to the wiki: https://openinverter.org/wiki/Configura ... 2_Inverter

May I ask why deadtime parameter is zero, isn't that a reason why Damien burnt capacitors in Gen 3 Inverter?

I believe you can't just set min as 4020 and max as 1672. My pedal is from Toyota rav4, version with metal swing. Three closest to driver pins work as intended, from 0 to 5v.

Can you look at the value of 'pot' at full pedal and zero pedal? Make sure it is close to the values of potmin and potmax (Change those if necessary). Also watch 'potnom' and make sure it also follows the pedal. -Isaac After this problem occurred, I was monitoring throttle input. My potmin is 2100 ...

OK, I was going to make a video today about new test with 105 volts and water cooling.... but I was really struggling to make car move... :( it became sluggish, and every time I was trying to accelerate it was accelerating at the beginning, but then immidiately lost power and motor was doing knockin...

TheSilverBuick wrote: ↑Wed Jul 08, 2020 10:16 pm So you determined they warm up when left on? The thread just immediately jumped to economizer talk after your post. You get why I'm asking

I haven't tested them on warm up because I have nothing to measure temperature except my fingers don't want to damage them and contactors

In other threads, you mention you use the Kilovac EV200 contactors, and a Prius relay. Is there a reason the whole Prius contactor/precharge module didn't work? The conversation immediately after your post below goes into talks about economizers, but nothing specifically about it in regard to the P...

Keeping in mind original handling of Ford model T, this EV conversion going to make your life much easier

Hi. Does the Prius gen 3 inverter with v1c board need any sort of feedback from battery BMS to run? Will it run off a battery without BMS at all or is configurable to do so? Thanks 🙂 In web interface you can set minimum voltage(UDCMIN), so inverter won't go lower than that. But you need set up volt...

For the low current the precharge switch handles, it would be perfectly reasonable to use a MOSFET based SSR. Could even be DIYed using a MOSFET, isolation transformer, and 555 to supply the signal to the transformer. For guys who good at electronics maybe it is, but for us simple gapers it is much...

My precharge is Toyota Prius precharge relay, rated 400v. Resistor is 50W 47kOhm, I believe this setup is more than capable for my tasks. 47k? I hope that's a typo. 20-2000 ohm is probably the reasonable range, generally speaking. That wasn't a typo but my short memory :mrgreen: Yes it is 47 Ohm, s...

arber333 wrote: ↑Tue Jul 07, 2020 2:40 pm I suggest you use proper DC rated relay for precharge. It's 40€ and peace of mind. I use 25W 150R ceramic resistor. It's enough for second or two dT.

My precharge is Toyota Prius precharge relay, rated 400v. Resistor is 50W 47kOhm, I believe this setup is more than capable for my tasks.

Good progress! Now for the fun part: main and precharge contractors

What do you mean by missing? Main contactor output from the bluepill is clearly connected to logic level mosfet IC5 on both the schematic and the PCB. Have you tested IC5? Apply 5V to the gate and the relay should close, remember it is a low side switch to ground not a 12V output. I mean that pin, ...

I've bought this TE connectivity 35-pin plug for Curtis five years ago and it's groove is differ from yours, and as I can see "notches" you made while trying to connect it, black connector is standart, but red one is different.

IT WORKS :D There was some parameter, firmware wasn't happy about. OCURLIM was 300(for some reason it's unit is Amps, but maximum is ~63000, there is a mistake I believe) I've changed it to 3000 and DESAT error disappeared. Now when I power up the board, it switches on precharge, then it a fracture ...

Ok, problem is still there :( Before strt button pressed there is 3.15 volts on precharge pin, and 2.4 volts on dcsw pin of blue pill. When strt is pressed, precharge is deactivated, there is zero volts, but on dcsw there is still 2.4 volts. I'm confused. As soon as strt pressed there is derate erro...

Damien is a true 80 lvl troll Also for some reason FLT pin missing as well. Damien can you please tell why?

I don't think that is supposed to happen... PWM output is only supposed to be possible in opmode 1 or 2 (normal or manual mode). Can you try looking at the opmode with board switched on but not started? Maybe you have a wire crossed somewhere. -Isaac OK, I checked it and all works fine. When logic ...

EDIT I have almost achieved rotation, open loop :D https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipMPR4-4hOIJjRdt4Mzi0_ZTKoLxL6Hhw2MCzjonAEqqVkg9_nRiizp5zHEPYPT7NQ/photo/AF1QipMa9Hv6ED-Ujz2mGDdp-JYAy1R4o2iqZxusBVi9?key=QTNacjRVX1lRVDNuNWt2X3g1azZkcGJxajZmUGln It's like a song "One step forward, two step...

Isaac96 wrote: ↑Sat Jul 04, 2020 6:48 pm I don't think that is supposed to happen...
PWM output is only supposed to be possible in opmode 1 or 2 (normal or manual mode).

Can you try looking at the opmode with board switched on but not started? Maybe you have a wire crossed somewhere.

-Isaac

will check it tomorrow.

In my understanding the purpose was to emulate the "engage the starter motor" springy position on the keyswitch that cars have. You'd never drive around with the starter engaged the whole time. Again, it might work for you, your choice, but the diagram that explains it to everyone should ...

Yes, great that you're carrying on and updating the wiki too. From what I remember, the preharge resistor comes AFTER the contacter in direction to the inverter.. I would suggest changing the colours around too for the hv lines. À newbie would wire it all up to the negative, and positive without pr...

Some feedback: - You deleted the info about how to hook up the wires to the pins on the inverter cable. That's helpful information to many people. - Your brake line input goes nowhere... - Your "start" is a lever switch, which, I think it should instead be a momentary pushbutton (it's mom...

MattsAwesomeStuff wrote: ↑Fri Jul 03, 2020 5:52 pm Like a normal gasoline car, creeping forward when you take your foot off the brake?
The brake still stops this, right?

It is not creeping, potnom is at 100% - it accelerates full power. I've got no brake pedal input.

I've encountered strange and dangerous bug with this board. Unexpectedly car starts to accelerate on its own. "Pot" is below "potmin" but "potnom" is 100%. On neutral it doesn't do anything, but as soon as I choose direction is starts to go there. I still don't know wha...