Ah, to live in a decent postcode for insurance. Seems fairly decent to me, but then I'm paying £1500!

Dusty4 wrote: ↑Sun May 08, 2022 12:21 pm Thanks for considering myself and the bug Tom Life's pretty busy for me at the moment, so it's a reluctant no for now. But I'd love to in the future.

No problem! Just let me know when you have some time.

Released a new episode of #DIYEV Chat tonight with whereswally606. This one was so much fun - an electric Mini that has stayed the same weight as the classic original and has better balance. Check it out here:

I would love to do an Alfa GT. Lots of good FWD options now and I've always loved that shape. Sold my GTV when I finished (ha!) my conversion but still fancy one of those. Or a sportwagon...

I tried *lots* of places and AF was the only option for me in the end. I'm afraid it may just need persistence with then. But it's very unlike them not to respond in my experience.

New episode time! This time my guest is Chris Hazell of Zero EV. We talk about how he got started, the conversion space and where it's going:

Fantastic! Know the time difference will be awkward but would you be up for coming on my podcast, DIY EV Chat, to talk about your project? Previous episodes here:

Brilliant - thanks Tom. Still waiting on my 3D scanner. Looks like Creality have got themselves in hot water over IP for the software.

Oh yes failure is all part of the learning process! Very much so! More videos out now. I really should start writing some more as well but there just aren't the hours in the day and the videos seem to get a lot more interaction. Anyway, parts 3 and 4 of the motor upgrade process are now live: Part ...

I've added what I think is the correct pinout to the wiki based on the REMCU doc that @aot93 supplied (thank you). Appreciate if someone could check it: https://openinverter.org/wiki/Mitsubishi_Outlander_Rear_Drive_Unit Understand the 14 pin/12 pin thing now having looked more closely at the connect...

Thanks for that. I saw the official pinout but that threw me as it has 14 pins and Tom's one only has 12?

I'm trying to do a pinout for the wiki - and get ready to hook up my rear motor in place of the front one. Does anyone have a full pinout including the temperature sensor connections figured out yet? Based on my little sketch below, am I right in thinking that 1-2 are EXC, 3-4 are SIN and 5-6 are CO...

I really wish I took more photos when doing stuff or had the confidence to make videos like you do, I made up my coupler this week and the only photo I took was of it finished! Lol Ha! Occasionally I want to hide my failures but I figure I might as well show the mistakes as well so other people can...

In case anyone missed this, the latest episode of DIY EV Chat features Damien.



Still looking for more people to come on. If you have a project on the road that you'd like to share and would be happy to spend an hour chatting to me, drop me a DM.

Busy week now that I'm back from two weeks wiped out by the 'rona. Two new videos on the channel:

- Making up the coupler for the motor upgrade
- Test fitting Audi TT seats and the Tribute Automotive body kit

Zapatero wrote: ↑Fri Mar 18, 2022 5:26 pm Is there an updated version of the plug?

So I'll need 2 on the inverter and one on the motor? Does this connect to the resolver on the motor?


Thanks, Philip

I've been wiped out with the 'rona so not had a chance to play with it yet. Have printed the current one and it's a good, snug fit.

New body is here!

Post another video on this project last week - nothing very EV related but some very soggy carpets.

tom91 wrote: ↑Tue Mar 01, 2022 9:12 pm The attached STL works for both the Vehicle connector and the Motor connector of the rear inverter and thus also on the motor.

Brilliant - I've been planning to do this. Happy to do some iteration on seal etc.

I think someone (@Outlandishpanda maybe?) did get the contactors to close over canbus but I went with re-wiring it as it felt safer. I know there's a lot of scepticism about the OEM relay/contactors but I've been using mine without issue since September now.

Nope - I get 43.3k ohms on known good CSC. I think that's right.

Based on Paul Compton's maths I think you might struggle to get the higher speeds with that diff setup, though I don't think anyone has tested it yet. I'm using the L210 in my new project and will likely look for a diff with a less than 3:1 ratio to swap in.

Might be worthwhile reusing parts of the engine wiring loom and placing your VCU into the ECUs enclosure. So many signals are there! That said, you're using ZombieVerter which probably won't fit. How much would I NOT like to work on that other car :shock: That's what I did last time. Tempted to put...

Not had that experience. I've buggered about with mine in a few (accidental) ways and they've survived thus far. Assuming they were still getting the same 5v supply with the canalyst?

Meanwhile, I am using box but I removed original controller, wired contactors directly to external connector and fitted ISA sensor which fits nicely (with very small modification of the busbar). Does anyone know what connector I need to connect to the main sbox connector - I don’t want to cut wires...