Leaf cells can't charge to 4.5V, I don't know any lithium cell that can. 4.2V should be absolute maximum. Good to have some authoritative data on that, I have seen max values everywhere between 4.00 and 4.50v, most in the 4.15v to 4.25v range. I was planning to have a max of 4.20v with "do not...

Thanks Arber! When my parts get here I will do some testing, I think there is enough difference to stay well clear of 4.5v/cell, but I can always add another zener + resistor and adjust the ratings, if needed.

I am in possession of a 2017 Leaf HV pack (out of a 2012), it has all the later parts, BMS etc. My initial plan was to use only 240v (10F, 20R), now I am thinking that going higher @ 320v (since all my relay parts are from the same vehicle and can handle it) would provide a more enjoyable vehicle. W...

According to Wolftronix post here https://www.diyelectriccar.com/threads/reverse-enginnering-the-nissan-leaf-bms-serial-protocol.169225/page-2 it appears that due to the HV cable configuration I intend to employ, using the Leaf BMS is not possible :( The good news is that the Leaf BMS "continua...

3 for, 1 against for: 1. i saw this as an easier implementation since the transmission holds 3 of the engine/trans mounts in the bay and i wouldn't need to fuss with axles Yea, fabricating mounts can be a Royal PITA and the axles can be a real bugger. 2. I want to keep the interior of the truck app...

Option #2 for me was/is a Caddy, NICE!!!

I might have overlooked it, but why not use the LEAF reduction gear as well?

I presume you intend on using the Nissan BMS as well? I considered it, but am not sure how to make it work with 40 modules, AND "never use software where hardware will work", so unless I KNOW the BMS can be used, my first best option is a "Lee Hart" type regulator. Nice project ...

I think I decided to try and fit the 24 module stack in the engine bay and another 16 in the Frunk. This should provide a 320v system and range over 50 miles :D You can see how I added two additional modules to each of the middle stacks, to make 16 from 12. 5 modules are sold locally, so now to deci...

Including mounting hardware, aka - as installed: L = 36", W = 15", H = 9.5" (BMS does not add to length in this measure). Excluding hardware: L = 32", W = 13", H = 9" Note: All measurements taken with modules assembled and to nearest 0.5" in "imperial" me...

Some photos from the day's activities.

What was learned? If you use a DMM and take all due care, nothing scary about it. Dangerous? H#LL YES, but not scary.

<EDIT: Note, on the notepad I wrote 20 modules, the rear stack has 24>

Yup, one small bend on a mounting tab, that is the only damage I found. Did not get the safety switch though, but they are like $40US from the dealer.

So a viewer of my newly posted video noticed this is a replacement pack, dated 2017.

DOUBLE SCORE!!!!

Roadstercycle wrote: ↑Fri Apr 16, 2021 10:39 pm Hi Everyone,
.... today I finished the new LDU setup for early model Mustangs, Camaro's and any other rear wheel drive cars ...

This means that a <6s 0-100kph First Gen 'Stang is very possible, would also make for a WICKED '64 Ranchero!

Guess what Santa Clause, in his brown summer uniform brought today?

Found this (link below) and it might be suitable as a BMS since I will have everything in the pack being delivered :D My fist thought is just to use a hardware solution (Lee Hart type) and that might be what I decide, but will certainly look into the Leaf and/or Openinverter BMS path. https://myniss...

I resemble that plan

That throttle pedal looks familiar

54v moving a comparatively heavy modern BMW with it's handbrake partially on, makes me all the more confident that 240ish volts could get the job done in the VOLTswagen Squareback

Pack has been shipped, Christmas in April!

I’ve just done a quick test and was able to get an output from the DC-DC with a 320V+ battery pack. It was putting out 15.3v. This was with no load at all so guessing that might drop with a load. I did have pins 1 and 3 both connected. Yes, the DC-DC is a little wild with no loads, I found that as ...

Jack Bauer wrote: ↑Sun Apr 04, 2021 9:51 am I've just done this myself and will make a video on the process. As usual there are quite a few "hidden" technical issues that are not discussed.

Hacksaw worthy?? LOL!

I can hardly wait to peel the lid of mine!

Strange how you can get 360v and I can’t get 288v to work perhaps something to do with me not going via the capacitor bank, or maybe to do with you slowly ramping voltage up to 360? Does it still work if you turn on with 360v applied? I tried to mimic the normal "start-up" process where t...

johu wrote: ↑Sat Apr 03, 2021 7:03 pm The video is private

Fixed

- DC-DC provided stable output to over 360vdc applied at the HV Battery input Are you saying here that it works with 360vdc applied? I just re-ran the tests with new batteries in the meter and yes, the DC-DC was charging 14.1v @ 0.91A with 340vdc applied to the battery connections. WOW! <Edit: Vide...

Some testing today on the Prius Gen2 DC-DC :D Conditions: VCU & Inverter logic "On", C5 Pins 1&3 tied to B+ terminal on a 12v battery, B- to the Inverter case, then applied some High Voltage to the HV Battery input. Results: - DC-DC "activates" at about 170v (120v on the ...

The 3ph for the AC compressor is controlled over the "BEAN" (?? have no clue) network. I have not seen, likely partially because I did not look hard, any information on the protocol.

See Daniel Oster's yootoobe videos, one is linked below.