You could 3D print a cover similar to what they did for the MB B class Tesla powered stuff to weatherproof. This was under hood I believe. Probably needs to be a two piece print unless you have a CR10 MAX or larger.

I did a full dump of my current LDU parameters for normal driving and modified anything that I’m doing over CAN to be a reasonable starting static value.

Did you have a way to visually see what was damaged? My ldu is bricked with overcurrent errors (confirmed the openinverter board and parameters are fine by swapping with another ldu). For now I'm just going to put the motor aside but if i can slowly pick at repairing it that would be great... If yo...

No, zero time to work on it lately. Still havent finished designing the new contactor box even though its at like 90% done.

Could you not remove the inverter, plate it off and use an external inverter? You can. The only issue is that I would argue the Tesla inverter is the most powerful unit for the money. You’ll take a performance hit with just about anything else on the market. However, that shouldn’t dissuade anyone ...

Golf_mkIII_E wrote: ↑Sun Apr 24, 2022 10:51 am It managed to do 12.67kWh/100km. Not bad!

What’s the full set of parameters for that economy? Even at light throttle I tend to see maybe 30kwh/100km or 2mi/kWh. I haven’t tried optimizing and that’s mostly doing 70-80mph on the highway in a soft top brick

Ahh yea sorry,I did. I think I have extras. I’ll need to check if I didn’t toss them.

Runs the swd connections out to two unused pins. Did you make that PCB? I need something very similar to patch a STM32 programmer into my SDU loom. I did the mods but it’s one of Damien’s from 3 or 4 years ago. I do have plans for a redo on my own but have limited motivation given other projects of...

This is what I followed
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1756

EDIT:just saw that’s the thread you found.

You do have some extra .bin files so deleting those would be a good place to start. Unfortunately I was never able to recover mine over WiFi. This was my backup fix for future issues. Runs the swd connections out to two unused pins. Backfeed 5v to power the board through the tps 5v supply pin. 6B6DC...

Raising fweak and lowering fslipmax are good ways to limit power. Any of the software current limiting when used to the extreme can cause oscillations that can counterintuitively induce an overcurrent.

I thought there was a display all flag to include hidden parameters but I might be imagining that. All the hidden stuff is mostly "do not touch or youre gonna have a real bad time" parameters. But as I say, use caution.

These are the parameters I use for normal driving, not set to kill, with the firmware mods. @rjmcdermott81 The deadness of half your pedal is from slipstart being at 55. This is a holdover of trying to avoid low speed/low throttle shudder that the updated firmware fixes on the LDU. My updated parame...

Also, I think the settings that are included have POT2 settings that require a brake pressure sensor. Setting POT2 min/max values to 4095 should help eliminate some variables.

Did you calibrate the throttle?
I would also update to the newer firmware.

It’s a 97-04 Mustang thing I picked up on eBay and did some light modification to

To get the math to match, you probably need to multiply by 32. Then the nanosecond values should align with the data sheet.

Making fweak variable with throttle was easy enough. No reason mapping it to RPM wouldn't work. Maybe Ill experiment when I get my car back on the road in a couple weeks. If you dont feel like waiting or changing the firmware then you can always alter it over CAN.

I believe that data came from here. https://www.batemo.de/products/batemo-cell-library/e66a/#get-report-popup Note that peak current is defined as current the cell can provide for 5 minutes. I would be more interested in peak current/voltage drop in 10-20 second bursts. Just thinking in terms of the...

I wonder if the change while charging caused a transient surge that killed it. I don’t think changing parameters while charging is something that would typically be expected to occur in the OEM setting. I doubt Tesla would have built in any safety to prevent that at the module level.

Thanks for the data. Ill need to ping some dealer connections here in the states and see how much they could shave off cost. Threw 16 of the above dimensions overlaid on my current battery tray setup and it looks feasible to build a sealed box containing all of my high voltage connections up front a...

Are those dealer costs or retail list prices? Those part numbers seem to show as $1000-1500usd which is well beyond exchange rates. However, the US prices could have incoming dealer freight costs baked in.

EV_Builder wrote: ↑Mon Mar 14, 2022 9:10 pm TayCan modules.
Pouche: LG Chem E66A

16x2.8kwh = 44.8kwh Capacity
16x11Kg = 176kg Weight

600Amps peak without cooling.

That's reasonably interesting apart from dealing with Porsche tax. Have the module dimension by any chance?

Interesting and somewhat disappointing. I would have hoped to see more higher output and lighter options as the years wear on but it seems these 10 year old cells still rank pretty high in function and robustness compared to other mass produced options.

I wonder what the output capability of these are. If I could get to 400v with 16 modules, that would get me to 38kwh and at 10.85 kg each, that would amount to a pretty good weight savings over my 32kwh 2x Volt packs. By the above dimensions, it seems I could get all 16 under the hood up front.