The way I was told to do this for my Weather Station project was to either obtain or calculate the "transfer function" of the sensor, then write that into code with the sensor input tied directly to one of the (RPi) input pins. That worked very well, but I have no clue if this is possible ...

I thought they were heavier, cool!

Has the "FOC Tuning Procedure" been completed" and have you compared your parameter values to others with the same components (Jack Bauer, etc)??

FOC Tuning:

Beetle (getting some) Juice!! LOL

From what I can tell, the Prius and Leaf relays are ECU controlled, so if the ECU loses power, so will the relays.

Normally there is a DC-DC converter in the HV circuit that would prevent this.

Bigpie wrote: ↑Mon Aug 02, 2021 6:31 pm Need ignition on to charge for example.

My planned solution is a switch on the fuel door

Very nice! W A Y ahead of me

No worries, I could'a sworn I put all the stuff in there, but I often forget to check back later to ensure I did it correctly. Currently, Prius Gen2 stuff is REALLY inexpensive, I have seen inverters for $25US :O You can get the whole car, not running (bad engine or HV Battery) for like $800 or so. ...

OK folks, I updated the Prius Gen2 wiki to reflect externally published, yet authoritative sources for connector and terminal part numbers.

They were in the Wiki: https://openinverter.org/wiki/Toyota_Prius_Gen2_Board, but have disappeared. I will get them back in ASAP, in the meantime:

C5 = 90980-10987(F) and -10988(M)

C6(B+) = 11963 (vehicle side)

Idle mode is set to always on, I do not think that will cause your issue, but try setting it to off. Also, you have "dirmode" = Switch just as I do, this needs to be tied to 12v for the syncofs tuning process to work. Edit: I think your syncofs value is on the "wrong side" of the...

Showing my level of ignorance here, but I had to look up MTPA :oops: Had it been written as MT/A, I *might have* had a chance 8-) While doing the research on it, I stumbled on this 2017 paper, and while I do not understand more than the general idea, it appears to be relevant. https://mplab.ee.colum...

установил прошивку 4.97. R-foc installed firmware 4.97 R-foc. вроде бы отрегулировал syncofs по инструкции. seems to have adjusted syncofs according to the instructions. при включении старт и вперед с помощи акселератора, двигатель крутится вроде бы нормально. when you turn on the start and forward...

I got it all running, using a 48V battery, leaf motor/resolver and FOC firmware. only issue I'm having is that the motor won't stop spinning once it started ( after throttle input ) Yea, been there, done that :O That condition is due to syncoffs not being correct (FOC tuning performed) PRIOR to uti...

Dan--T wrote: ↑Thu Jul 08, 2021 9:42 pm So I think each lexus cell is 7.2v,. So I just need to buy a power supply capable of over 7.2v and do them all one at a time?

The modules are wired in series, the only way to do them all at once @ 7.2v is to turn every other one around so all the (-) & (+) terminals are on the same side.

Почему двигатель так странно себя ведет? :o Why does the engine behave so strangely? :o что я сделала неправильно? :( what did i do wrong? :( вроде бы все сделал по инструкции йоханнеса и дэмиена it seems that he did everything according to the instructions of Johannes and Damien люди добрые прошу ...

As ZooKeeper said. You can either use a proper charger or just a simple lab power supply - those have both current and voltage control so they charge batteries safely, also they're generally useful for EV conversion work . Yea, I know... so useful I am amassing a collection of them :ugeek:

For a hybrid pack, especially Toyota/Lexus ones, my suggestion would be one module at a time while secured in their case.

Don't know what I was thinking.... Yea, the current goes THRU all the modules in series and each acts like a resistor dropping the voltage in doing so.

I was picturing a common buss-bar..... that's not series, but parallel.

Mind's eye pictured one thing, reality is something else.

Version 1 of the HV Relay wiring plan. I might just use an automotive relay to control the grounds on them to commonize wiring.

If I recall correctly, the important numbers are on the control board inside.

From my experience, the issue is mostly the device having more than one (VCU) WiFi connection available and switching to the best signal. Solution: Forget all connections except the VCU

celeron55 wrote: ↑Tue Jun 29, 2021 6:39 am Are you mixing up series and parallel effects here? If you're allowed 1A per cell, it's still 1A when you have any amount of cells in series.

Amps is a measure of the number of electrons. If I charge at say 8A, that is 8A/80cells = 0.100/cell and I can shunt about that much per cell.

Been working on diagrams since I have no car

This is for the EV unique 12v wiring. Also have the HV Relay control and HV system in the works