UPDATE I got a VIN! Luckily the CHP didn't care much for body panels and just riveted on the VIN no problem. I've been really quite since I'm diving really deep into embedded systems coding. I decided to redo the BMS system and instead leveraging chevy volt gen 1 BMS modules (since the CAN network i...

Did Advantics reflash the ldu for you? Or did you have to do through one of their retailers? Great progress! Advantics did. I'm 99% sure that no one besides Advantics can reflash them. I would not buy this controller through anyone but Advantics as they are most likely not adding any value to the t...

UPDATE The motor finally is spinning! I really wish I knew how the can emulation works for the Tesla drive unit. I don't know how they are able to flash a firmware on the board sadly but it would be cool to be able to get this working for the masses to open source this. I thought that the mcu was l...

UPDATE Working on the cooling system right now. I had to buy new seats since the NRG ones I got were too wide to center the steering wheel properly. Since I am using a Prius EPAS column, I needed to redo the mounting system for the WRX column. I'm pretty happy how it ended up but since I am using t...

I'm buying a megohmn meter for insulation testing now. It's good to hear that I'm not the only one seeing these voltages. I know it's a tiny amount of leakage current but I don't like the idea that it's present.

Running into this problem on some Gen 2 battery packs (some from a chevy spark and some from a volt but I believe are built of the exact same cells.) I agree with your coolant observation as when I uncompress the kleet mounting brackets the voltage from the battery in reference to the frame decrease...

Update I redesigned the HVJB since I got a great deal on a large enclosure box on eBay. I added a bunch of goodies to it (like DC fast charging for CHAdeMO and CCS.) Took a while to CAD it all up but it was definitely worth the time. I built up the custom CV axles and they fit perfectly adapting Te...

I enjoyed the pictures... it's a very great level of detail, so thanks for posting them for all to see. Your level of workmanship on this is very high and I'm sure the final results will reflect this. I was thinking since you used an electric steering column, you might be an electric brake actuator...

Very nice. But I did spot something are your relais correct? I would expect A1 and A2 at the battery or delivery side. Now I see two times A2. Thought these animals had polarity. You are correct. I was so excited to finish the contactor box that I just threw them in without remembering proper polar...

UPDATE Worked on the HVJB for the Tesla drive unit as well as got the charger logic board working. I sadly need to add a few parts to I had to pull it after I took that picture. I'm also building the negative HJVB (since I am using 3 separate parallel strings. This means that I need to move away fr...

Dusty4 wrote: ↑Sat Nov 20, 2021 12:01 pm Cool, I have ended up having a go myself, I have made the bms24s. I am hoping to test in the next few weeks.

Do you think you can drop the link for your revised BOM with parts that JLCPCB stocks by any chance?

Update currently crying since the battery modules only hold 35ah of capacity. RIP. I charged to 8.3v and discharge to 6v Well, the batteries are no good for my EV conversion but at least I can sell them to the powerwall folks. On a brighter note, I picked up an inverter from Pick n pull for 51 buck...

UPDATE Got the Tesla gen 2 OBC (onboard charger) mounted in the vehicle! I probably spent 4 hours drawing up ideas for where to mount the charger but I'm pretty happy with what I ended up with. A big part of its location is the fact that the gen 2 charger is not weatherproofed (as it sits under the...

Price drop on Lear chargers 350 each (buyer pays shipping)

Update: Tore down everything to cell level and looked a little at cell voltages through a DMM. Looks like the delta in cell to cell voltage is well within 100mv! The cells are charged to 3.8 ish volts which is super weird since the leaf said the battery had 2 miles of range left in it. I'm thinking...

What a steal. You will make your money back in parts alone, consider taking doors off and selling them separately if you haven't done so. That should cover your costs already. In terms of battery, I hope you only have 2 - 3 bad modules that you can replace! Either way, great start to a project. I g...

joromy wrote: ↑Thu Jan 13, 2022 3:59 pm Wow, great project.
I guess you are swapping motor and inverter with openinverter and leaf motor

Exactly! I'm not sure what Im doing for inverter control yet but most likely CAN control but we will see! Might give the logic board route a try too. Either way much more power than I need.

decided to do some digging again, and looks like the bolt, spark, taho hybrid and gen2 volt use the same BECM module. found this CVS file of the PIDs for the bolt, hopefully this is every needed to at least measure soc, soh, and cell voltages https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1sY5n8WFu52U6a4_m...

johu wrote: ↑Wed Jan 12, 2022 6:09 pm Wow, that's a lot of pictures And cool build as well

I really want to make sure I have a ton of photos to look back at when I'm done to remind me of how fun that adventure has been! Thank you for the kind words!

Hi, I just bought a Nissan leaf 2011 with 75k miles on craigslist for $550 (that actually drives). According to leafspy the battery has 2 bars which I'm really hoping that the BMS is bugging because I have never seen someone with a pack this bad if so. Worse case I got a motor, drive unit onboard ch...

Great project! I've always admired Factory Five's products and had eyed the 818 as a great EV swap candidate since its introduction. I'll be closely following your build and would like to see more pictures. I've always thought it would be kind of neat if FF did their donor car swap strategy to some...

There’s no effect on the bms taps on the cells. it’s just the side plates your swaping/removing. they stack like Lego. Less coolent fittings, less chance of leaks/ failure! If I fit the modules together like that I would need to bend the BMS taps upwards. Also, I would have to remake the way I hold...

Nice find! Where is the actual PLC/CCS controller? It's module #9 in on the photo I linked. It's really terrible color choice on my part to circle it with so here is a better one below. Also thinking about it a little more leads me to believe that the voltage sense and other telemetry is taken care...

the great thing about the Gen 2 volt/ spark Modules is they are the same + stacking them together is quite easy. if you get some threaded rod, you’ll be able to remove all the backing plates inbetween the modules to make on big one. You’ll save a lot of space and coolent plumbing. https://openinver...

The way i see its 750W heater with thermistor in a socket. The other thermistor is on the return pipe. I see from my front section there is 10A HV relay which turns the heater on and system also switches on fluid pump and 3point valve. Since it is only 750W i wouldnt worry. Turn it on with 12V HV r...