New vacuum sensor from Citini (attached to the blue manifold). Works a treat - I am now getting about 7 seconds pump run time every 24 seconds, which may indicate a slight vacuum leak but it will do for now.

CCS controller and inlet is in. Kit at eDubs posted a video before I picked her up.
Next I need to improve the brake pump with the vacuum sensor I got from Citini, then it will be time for an interior.

Could you please share your SDU parameters? Maybe add to the common DB... https://openinverter.org/parameters/ Hi Alex, sorry for the very late reply. I don't know if it would make sense to share my parameters as I have a specific firmware build from ZeroEV/Fellten, not the main openinverter code.

This is going to be a really interesting project. The i3 drive system is very good and should work well if you can both fit it in and communicate with it. I have both an i3s and a VW bus. Good luck with it!

That would work a lot better Tom, assuming I can get 75kPa with my system. The switch I have adjusts up to 90kPa and the pump won't stop with that setting. Do you have the dimensions of the module and 1/4" adapter?

How will the driveline look? I've seen one other bus with a Leaf stack, and one of the drive shafts had to be really short with a pretty extreme offset from diff to hub.

I've fitted a vacuum pump for the brakes. This photo is before connecting the hose to the servo. It works but I'm not happy about the lack of hysteresis in the switch (i.e. the pump runs for a very short time every few seconds and every time you apply the brakes). I got another make of switch but it...

It is going to have a new camper interior. The old one was mostly 44 years old and in bad shape. A lot of work to do yet!

I got the bus on the road in October. Most of my spare time over the winter has been spent programming, it's still too cold to be working outside for my liking. Managed a few test drives, one was the 60 mile round trip to the office. IMG_0022.jpeg IMG_0029.jpeg I had a DVLA inspection this week. The...

Wiring is all done now and wheels turning. This is the under-dash loom before I put the dash back in. Not long before road test time.

A little update. I finished the SOC display module. The hardware tests out ok, no proper code written yet. IMG_3594.jpeg Here is the before and after where it replaces the fuel gauge. The display isn't as wide as the hole in the panel so it doesn't look as neat as I would have liked, but should be o...

The paint goes like that after a long time because of oxidation. Mine was the same when I got it (in 1997).

Welcome to VW bus ownership! Same colour as mine too! Looks like the original paint?

The only water in these is in the washer bottle.

Can't get any better pictures than this with the battery in place. Hope this gives you some idea.

I don’t know what radiators and fan they are, but they are small and mounted back to back. I need to put the 12V battery somewhere else, as it wouldn’t be possible to get it in or out with the main battery box in place.

After almost a year at Edubs, including body restoration at Herbie Hospital, I have my shell back with drive unit and battery box completed. We were able to 'drive' it into my workshop under its own power. IMG_3370.jpeg Main battery box. This has 12 of the 16 Calb modules (35kWh total). Uses the Zer...

I'm using the 1-series pedal Dave. Very simple to use with two 5v outputs. I 3D-printed an adaptor plate that allows it to sit in the original mounting position for the old analogue pedal in my Z3. I also have a design for an adaptor for flat floor mounting that I use in my test setup - see pic. Ha...

Thanks arber but I can't use that kind of pedal. I don't have a firewall or wheel arch at the front of the cab, just a horizontal floor.

Can anyone who knows about throttle pedals steer me in the right direction to locate a suitable pedal for my VW bus? I need a floor mounted type like a BMW one but I'm not sure what is going to need the least amount of modding/fabrication or will give me a suitable operating position. I don't have a...

I breadboarded the circuit described earlier. It works great, but the gauge behaves strangely in that when you reduce the current, the pointer doesn't come down to the same place as when it's going up. I can drop it below where I want it to be then bring it back up again, but this isn't ideal. It's ...

I've come up with a simple low cost solution that should work and still uses PWM. Screenshot 2021-08-29 at 17.18.09.png I made a simplified model of one of my gauges, represented by Rp, Rs and Rn. The maximum current for this is about 70mA. V2, V4 and A1 are modelling the PWM logic output with a 3.3...

What about using multiplexers? https://eu.mouser.com/datasheet/2/427/dg506b-1764700.pdf Or simply LED drivers? https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tlc6948.pdf?HQS=dis-mous-null-mousermode-dsf-pf-null-wwe&DCM=yes&ref_url=https%3A%2F%2Feu.mouser.com%2F&distId=26 I don't think LED drivers wo...

Here's what I did yesterday. This is using a darlington transistor as that's what I had to hand. It works, but the PWM is audible with this kind of gauge. It's quiet, and it was also raining on the steel roof, so you can't hear it very well in the video.

That's a very cheap kind of DAC (see also https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resistor_ladder). Funnily enough I was just thinking about using a simple DAC yesterday after testing one of my gauges with PWM (will post a video later). The above method is fine if you have plenty of I/O available but I want t...

You will know if you have the wrong resistors if your gauge won't go all the way up with 100% PWM, or vice versa with 0%.