I don't think Johu would appreciate this thread being taken over with discussion of BMS's. For the record I agree they are important and plan to implement one soon so maybe we should get back on topic. On the subject of Outlander chargers I called into a Tesco carpark last night and plugged in. Aft...

Now for DC FC so the young you wouldn't be embarrassed 🤣 Good to hear your over you early meeting problems (cutting out) but sounds like a very useable range. DC FC? Wot that mean? :? I'm delighted with the range but need to be careful when charging and driving near the bottom voltage as I still ha...

I had to drive approx 28 miles to the far side of Belfast today to collect parts for work so figured it was a nice trip for my Freelander EV. When I started the pack was at 398V and when I got home it was around 356 but I had another short journey to do so when I got home this evening the pack was a...

Informing the DVLA of errors on the V5C can get you into an infinite loop of ever more errors. Correcting a spelling mistake on my address once resulted in two more. Fixing that led to the vehicle model description getting corrupted. My moto is, "don't go looking for trouble. It will find you ...

I don't think Johu would appreciate this thread being taken over with discussion of BMS's. For the record I agree they are important and plan to implement one soon so maybe we should get back on topic. On the subject of Outlander chargers I called into a Tesco carpark last night and plugged in. Afte...

I was hesitant to call this fixed as I've only been testing for a few days but it appears to be sorted now. As Tom91 said a positive feed to a timer module was shared with a couple of other devices in the LV junction box and when other electrical items were turned on like the brake boost pump or eve...

You need to have a BMS before continuing. Your build is quite a hairbrained experiment that can turn deadly quickly . This whole chasing of faults only to realise your build has a massive wiring and reliability problem show this. Sorry mate I couldn't stop thinking about what you said and had to re...

Okay but did they change your V5? add a note or anything regarding it being converted? If not it becomes an endless loop of incorrectness :? I believe this mostly is handled via your insurance provider, you tell them what you changed and they note it on the policy. Nope, that is what I meant by the...

You need to have a BMS before continuing. Your build is quite a hairbrained experiment that can turn deadly quickly. This whole chasing of faults only to realise your build has a massive wiring and reliability problem show this. The BMS will be installed soon, most of the wiring is in place already...

You would be wrong there. They state they cannot change anything on your V5, so this is a bit of a pointless exercise unless this was required for you to insure it. If you look at your V5 document there is a portion that states " If you have made changes to your vehicle or if the information i...

I've driven over 70 miles since finding the issue mentioned above and no cutting out despite doing all the things that might have caused it before. I've also charged a few times without issue and tonight even managed a short (20 minute) charge on a Pod Point charger which wouldn't work before. This ...

Bummer mate but at least you found it.

Look what just arrived in the post. :D IMG_20240122_172402316.jpg IMG_20240122_172423538.jpg The important bit is "The inspection report concluded that no radical changes had been made to the vehicle to accommodate the new electric system and that no further investigations are required." T...

I'm very happy to report back that the charging issue has not reoccurred since rewiring 12V supply to the Positive contactor. I have also connected it through a latching relay as suggested by Arber333. And the car has not cut out while driving either so I guess the two issues were caused by the same...

arber333 wrote: ↑Fri Jan 19, 2024 9:56 pm I used two different P/Ns and they both operate on the same commands.

Thanks mate, I'll report back when it arrives.

So it ain't pretty but I happened to have a DPST (double pole single throw) relay with wires soldered to it so I connected it in tonight and tested what would happen if the timer module glitched. The relay is bottom left if you click on the image or bottom right if you don't. IMG_20240119_191400507....

I mentioned a while ago I was having problems with the car cutting out as I drove. I have to admit it was getting me down as I didn't really know where to look but as sometimes happens fate lent me a hand. The last couple of times I tried to charge the HV battery it stopped charging after around 30 ...

Bigpie wrote: ↑Fri Jan 19, 2024 4:47 pm Looks the same as the one I've got in the Beetle.

I hope so, I just ordered one.

Does anyone know if the 7807A021 will operate the same?
It is going for a good price here
https://ebay.us/xxCqz2

Once I got the cable issues sorted I concentrated on getting the timing right for turning on the inverter. For a while I struggled to get it to work reliably if turned off and on again but I think I've resolved this by using Output3 from the VCU to power the Inverter. When I get it documented I'll ...

First i would advise you to make a latching relay circuit. The fact you are using timed relay to power your contactor can be tricky. I allways want to have ability to latch contactor so that no mattery what VCU does HV wont be an issue. You can do this by using two automotive SP relays (or single m...

The board uses an NCV8401, designed for the job, 12V goes to one side of the contactor coil and the other to the VCU. Thanks Jamie, this is good to know, the issue I had with driving the contactors was very early in the evolution of my LV connection box so it is very possible I had wires crossed so...

You could try running contactor from negative side. Supply 12V directly from ignition and use timer relay to bring GND to contactor. Maybe GND is more stable... That's a great suggestion, however I'm using the neg output from the VCU to power the timer relay. I tried connecting the VCU directly to ...

I was about to say "It looks like the issue is a faulty contactor." I put a meter across the 12V supply for the positive contactor and when I turn on the headlights the contactor opens and stays open even though the 12V to it doesn't change." However it wasn't quite as simple as this....

Your 0x285 message looks funky as too, but it seems to work. Wiki suggests the 3rd byte should be 0xB6 to pull the EVSE into the correct state. Yours is 0xAA. Not sure if this is a full log, but some public EVSEs wont work if you skips state B and jump straight to C. The Pod Points at Tesco for exa...