I had a chance to work on the motor this morning. I swapped the wires and it worked pretty much perfectly: https://youtu.be/QhI52TuI7NE It cogs a little at the very start, but I'm putting that down to it not having anything attached to the shafts and that I was very slowly increasing the power. This...

Yup, I've seen the "swap the A/B wires" threads. I did that a few times trying to track down the complete lack of signal for my original hand-built harness. That was more out of desperation, though, since I had no signal at all. I was using a shielded cable there, made from a butchered shi...

I've been trying to get an LDU to work for some time now. I had some issues with my wiring to the Hall sensor, but I've gotten that fixed and am properly reading a speed signal when I rotate the motor by hand. Unfortunately, I'm still having trouble performing a low-voltage test. Here's a video demo...

Sorry for the very long delay in getting back to this thread; other projects took my attention for a bit. Thanks for the tip about making sure the inverter is activated -- I didn't think of that, but it does make sense. I got some more Hall sensors and tested them, and had the same results. What fin...

Replying to my own thread: The part number appears to be 1002722, and they're not hard to get from ebay (although you have to wait 2-4 weeks for it to come from China). I may order a couple just in case. I pulled the sensor and found some drops of liquid on it. Now I'm wondering if I should replace ...

I have a Tesla LDU with a new OpenInverter board running the latest firmware. I'm doing low-voltage tests with two UB12350 12v scooter batteries. They're not super powerful, but they will turn the motor. The problem is that the motor doesn't turn smoothly. I'm getting that jogging/cogging/clunking t...