Hi,

My one of these has fallen apart due to going brittle. Please let me know if you have a spare.

Feel your pain.

New 12v battery is not a bad shout.

Stating the obvious but can you stick a couple of multimeter probes into the back of the 23pin molex to check you’re getting decent voltage there on start up?

Once a direction is selected and things are clocked, it does consume some power. I ...

Just thinking further about this, it does seem as if a loose connection or dry solder joint would be more likely. Seems odd that you can give it the beans one minute but then it won’t work the next.

P.S.Mangelsdorf wrote: ↑Fri May 30, 2025 12:11 pm Good to know. I'll have to check whether the chip is the same on the base boards and the Sport boards. Because I have quite the collection of phases now.

Did you see this:

viewtopic.php?p=41690&hilit=Gate#p41690

Hmm. What seems so weird to me it that is worked, didn't work, worked well enough for me to push it exceptionally hard, drove home, and then didn't work. I'm planning to go over it with a fine toothed comb to see if anything stupid like a loose connector is causing it.

Did you replace the whole ...

P.S.Mangelsdorf wrote: ↑Fri May 30, 2025 12:00 pm Did you have any indication before the light came on which gate driver was bad?

I had the drive unit powered up on the bench, and I didn’t notice any physical issues. However, I think tried it in the car and the next time I removed it the chip was fried and light on.

I can’t help with your feedback about the IGBT tests, however I had a similar issue to the symptoms you’re describing a few years ago, and it turned out to be gate drive chip going bad. I managed to change the chip over.

It was however eventually evident by the red LED coming on. There’s a thread ...

The car became more and more horrible to drive this week so I pulled the motor out. Whilst the inverter was completely dry, looks like I have some remnants of a previous leak from (3 years ago).

Here’s the reading with HV:
Here’s the reading without HV:

johu wrote: ↑Wed Apr 23, 2025 6:32 am Does the voltage drop (close) to 0 when not allowing HV into the inverter?
186V sounds suspiciously like the floating value when Vsense is not connected to the OI board

I will check this evening. Thank you.

Hello All,

Whilst driving a few days ago, my large drive unit massively derated all of a sudden despite a full battery.

Upon power cycling and checking the spot values, the main contactor would not close because the last error was UDC below UDCSW. It was showing <200vdc. Got the car home and ran ...

modellfan wrote: ↑Sun Dec 15, 2024 9:07 pm One more question, are you using both coolers in the front or is one just enough?

I have a standalone easydriver sending signals from my VCU to power the stepper.

I’m only using one front radiator but on a hot day >30 degrees and many 7kw charges, that’s insufficient. Use both.

I've been running this Sine firmware in my Tesla LDU for sometime now with great success. However, I have noticed a couple of small quirks.

When changing direction, say reversing and then selecting FWD, the RPM or POT signal needs to be zero/resting otherwise the throttle doesn't engage. If you do ...

2000 Porsche Boxster with Tesla LDU and baby Chevy volt battery.


Build thread here: viewtopic.php?t=210&hilit=Porsche

If I was doing it again, I’d build inside my stainless battery boxes.

My file is here.

In the past when I’ve had OC events doing hard pulls (usually occurs during wheel hop), it’s fslipmax that I’ve backed off.

Not had one now in a few years. However, the firmware version can have a big influence too. I recently upgraded from 5.20 to 5.35 and the latter made the car a lot more ...

I had a very competitive quote this year limiting mileage to 5000 miles. Perhaps contacting this company directly (instead of using Flux), could’ve achieved an even cheaper price. 46 YO living in South East, UK. Full details of conversion declared including photos.

For sale is a BMS and control system from an Ampera high voltage pack.

The BMS is ideal for a 96 string pack. Excellent condition including a complete BMS, BECM, BICM, current sensor, heater, contactors and fuses.

£250 plus shipping

Tesla Gen 1 ibooster installation:

Whilst I installed an ibooster a few years ago upgrading from a UP28 vacuum pump, I wanted to update this thread as I’ve improved the installation solution.

Here’s the first iteration whereby I offset the fluid reservoir position.

I was never happy with this ...

To report back: I managed to get this working, sort of. In summary, here's what I did:

1) Upgraded to the latest Inverter firmware
2) Deleted the ESP file system .json file with cURL
3) Connected using a PC (rather than an iPhone). Upon first connection I needed to toggle the node ID from from 1 to ...

Everything per pictures.

Includes the becm, contactors, fuses and coolant heater.

Lower part of battery disconnect also included.

Please note the HV connectors are damaged.

£80 plus shipping.

Having completed the delete in my circa 1250kg Porsche, so far I’ve seen a maximum motor temp spot value of 182 degrees C during spirited driving. That seems pretty hot, however it appears to be running well enough.


Edit: obviously this is the stock motor sensor, not the centre of the rotor.

This project is going to be great. Looking forward to following the progress.