Hi again forum. Sorry not to have been in touch for a while, have been "out of action" (life gets in the way).
Good news is that just before Christmas I tried Johu's advice to adjust Boost. This seems to work well. All re-assembled and back in the car now. Battery Pack construction and charging ...

Hi again johu, Spent a lot of time testing with fslipspnt at various values between 2 and 25, with no success - just a slight hum. Also varied fweak and boost with similar results.
One thing I did note, was that there is hardly any current flowing to the phases. -virtually none in fact (that could ...

Thanks johu, I'll try that tomorrow. Ah, now I see what fslipspnt does. While messing about with measurements, I found that I have 3.2v between phases - is that good ?
The motor is free to turn by spinning a wheel in gear , but I can't hear it ... Yes, I'm clutching at straws here. Will report back ...

Hi again, johu 1). I tried to run with boost 10000 and fweak 20/30/40. The result was that the waves were as before, the motor didn't run and, over about 5 minutes, the heatsink (chillplate) rose in temperature to around 35C (at which point I panicked a little :) and shut it down, as there's no ...

Thanks johu, I'll try that. My motor is 208v.

Hi uhi22, thanks for your comments on the screenshot. I hadn't realised that the setting AC or DC would give a different interpretation.
This is my inexperience using this scope. I will certainly change the settings and try again. Regarding the ...

Hi, I've set everything up and given it a run with the motor connected. The motor doesn't run (or at least I can't hear or feel it running).
I've scoped 2 of the phases and get what looks like sine wave to me. I've also tried a combination of various values for fweak and fslipspnt, ampnom remained ...

Thanks johu. I'll connect up and see if everything works, then connect to the motor.... S

Update - I now have clean square wave to driver boards. I checked volyages from DC-DC 15.5, 0, -9.2 (all boards similar). Checked voltages and waves on Driver outputs (photo -blue trace). Not sure where to take output readings from, so did Gtop - Etop, Gbot - Ebot got +/- 24v on scope on both (photo ...

A final check of the day revealed that there Is a sq wave on the Opto outputs And at the gate outputs but this is only about 1 volt (read from scope scale).

Latest - I disconnected Temp Sensor from board - there is now square wave on all driver inputs. Unfortunately, although the is a signal at the optos, there nothing out. The TVSs removed have been replaced, so I think I'll replace optos on 1 board first, then check again...S

Hi johu, Thanks for your reply. No, I'm using KTY83 (in my case KTY83/120) sensor, specified on instruction sheet, as there was no sensor supplied (or shown on BOM) with my kit. I'll leave it open circuit for now (-25C).
I have checked voltages on il1,il2 they are 1.82 and 1.80. I also checked ...

Tried checking again yesterday and got a square wave at the driver board inputs. Then I connected up the boards and lost the square wave.
"errors" gives me -
15: DERATE TMPHSMAX
500: STOP PRECHARGE
24847: WARN HICUOFS2
24857: STOP OVERCURRENT
Get "lasterr" gives 1.00 (overcurrent). il1gain and ...

OK. From that, do I ignore error 10 ? I still have no signal at the driver inputs. Could this be a problem on the Main Board ?
Thanks .... S

Post didn't go again ! Did as requested removed TVSs I have 9v on all outputs. Outputs on DC-DC ok too. No input on Driver Board input.
From the posts that did not arrive - the gist is.... have -9v on Top,Ebot, have fixed error1 ( ocurlim set at -1000, now set at +1000. There is now an error 10 pre ...

OK I think It's ok now. Thanks johu, I'll try setting the gain to 4 and see what happens. I have -9v & 15v from the DC-DC but nothing to the gate outputs. This is what prompted me to suspect the optos. The TVSs don't show a short across them, by multimeter buzzer setting.
There is no output from the ...

Having trouble posting - my last posts did not show

I seem to be having trouble posting. I have posted 2 replies and they are not shown. Maybe it's something to do do with me adding attachments. sorry.... Steve

sorry for duplication - I thoughtI had lost the original, so re-wrote it

Well spotted uhi22, I've now checked grounding. When I disconnected the breakout board from the Main Board,to isolate each section, it looks like I missed a ground connection - now fixed. I now have absolutely no scope trace - except for what I think is some sort of "static". - see photo. The ...

Well spotted uhi. Although, I have the probe grounded directly to the chill-plate and all the grounds go to that for now. I'll change the probe and check the connections to ground.
Yes johu, I have a 5v feed into the driver boards -9v and 15v from the DC-DC. The 11.1v was on the signal feeds into ...

Hi, Another update, I replaced the driver boards with some that had been repaired. These gave the same results. I lowered scope setting th 200mV/div and got the trace in the photo. Only 400mV peak to trough. Wave is ok maybe ?? I've just been back out to the workshop to check driver input voltages ...

Hi Johu, No, not certain, but there is absolutely no voltage or wave at the output of optos - they seem dead. Similarly, previous opto (1) showed the same symptoms.
I noticed something amiss when I connected the IGBTs, there was no increase in current draw to the power supply.
The normal current ...

Hi, I have an update on progress - not good. Starting from basic set up once again. Start 2, set fslipspnt 1, set ampnom 1. Voltage supply 12.2v , Amps increase as I attach driver boards 1,2,3 to a total draw of 0.30A. Checked driver board inputs on scope (see photo) all the same form.
Next checked ...

Hi Johu, I have got il1.il2 sensors outputting 1.786/1.789 volts, but still can't calibrate. Neither can I calibrate UDC nor heatsink temp.
I have just replaced the KTY83-120 and get a temp reading of 85 when the heatsink is 17C (just as before). Open circuit, the temp reading is -25C.
Unfortunately ...

OK, I've done some repair work on solder joints on both current sensors. Now voltages on their outputs are around 1.7v (1.786 & 1.789v).
I think now, that the current I'm passing through the cable to calibrate is too low - I can only do around 12A DC - I have a bulbs in parallel, using car batteries ...