Answered my own first question
https://github.com/jsphuebner/stm32-sin ... ration.cpp

/* PWM frequency */
timer_set_period(PWM_TIMER, pwmmax);

any guidance on the 2nd?

I tried looking at the code, could someone point me to where the ARR register is being set for TIM1 (PWM), I want to try reducing the PWM frequency to 12kHZ from 17.5. what else would this break in the code since it appears that all clocks are using TIM1?

Did you come up with a solution? I'm getting ready to wire up my Brusa charger. I really would like to wake on can when the proximity signal is detected from J1772, but since I am using the openinverter board in the SDU for contactor control I need to trigger start (via Can) but then need to inhibit...

I'll try to give it a shot this weekend. I finally got the coolant system bled and the wheel alignment close enough to take the Porsche out on the road (at least all 4 wheels aren't pointed in different directions). I need to hookup the PWM control for the coolant pump first though, because I instan...

Rebuilt with the new inverter, re-installed in the drive unit and it spins!!! YAY!!! Contactor control with trip-mode "on" based on the discussions for the safety of the drive unit. I'll add an inertia switch on the power feed to the contactos just in case of an accident to de-energize the...

it looks like this also affects manual mode. which might explain why I can't get any PWM output when testing in manual mode. I will try connecting the forward signal and report back.

I figured out why the middle bulb wasn't lit. it was a switched socket (and the switch was off). now I get all 3 bulbs lit!

still getting nothing in manual mode (mode 2) when starting from the web interface (with a manual precharge at 48V).

I've been using a bunch, careful i think they run @5V on USB and 3.3v when powered from the can bus connector via 12v. Need to do a bit more research on the schematic. In particular the power circuit.

Hopefully just one more question... Even after a manual precharge and bypassing the main contactor, I dont get any PWM output in manual mode after setting the fslipspnt - 1 and ampnom - 70%. Any Idea why? I added the wires for start, forward and a VW GTI pedal. I can press the start switch, 12V on F...

Ok that makes a lot more sense. I was tracking what I thought was bad wiring that turned out to be fine. :? I was able to use the start switch to get into run mode, then choose manual run on the web interface and everything looks good. but I'm not lighting the bulbs that I connected to the motor pha...

Yes it definitely is measuring the voltage correctly for UDC. The precharge comes on correctly with key switch. but when I choose manual run on the web interface it does not pull in the main contactor. no errors, but it seems to open the precharge without closing the main. I added the start wire, an...

udcsw is set to 45V and the battery is at 53.

its zero, until it goes to 4,
based on the header file I understand 4=UdcBelowUdcSw, which is consistent with the main contactor not closing and trying to run on the precharge.

Thanks Johannes, I got the new board installed in another drive unit. I replaced my welded contactor and burned precharge resistor with a new and a 100ohm precharge R. I'm starting off at 48V DC with 3 60W mains lightbulbs in a delta configuration connected to the 3 motor phases. the precharge contr...

I was actually thinking of your test code.
https://github.com/jsphuebner/stm32-test

do you have a similar setup for testing the SDU boards with the current sensors?
I'll try to see if I can compare the schematics and come up with the resistor network needed to test.

Does the test mode work for the SDU board?

I've got 1.7ish at pins 1 and 7 of IC 7, so its doing its job, but the current is flowing back through R3 and R7...
So I'm guessing IC4 or the MCU is gone.
ordered a new board from the webshop.

Yes,

Gains are correct. Beginning to suspect the mcu. Maybe I should order a new board for debugging.

working with a V4 SDU, and getting Stop overcurrent errors. [60813]: WARN - HICUROFS1 [60813]: WARN - HICUROFS2 [66241]: STOP - OVERCURRENT Tracked back to the Op-AMP. Sensors are putting out 2.5V R48 is correctly setting 2V C18 and C19 are sitting near 2.6 V C21 seems right at 3V, but C22 is readin...

To make the temperature sensor in the IGBT module work on Damien's Board Remove R94, and jump a 10K resistor to 5V, the right side of R20 is a convenient spot to pull the power. Now I measure 18C in my basement as opposed to 100C https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW9F4Bprh0U...

After picking potting compound for an hour I realized Everything is resistance welded.
Now I need that hacksaw!!!

Its the 5V. yup, I swapped to the Wemos D1, way easier to program and more memory! plus I can power it from either the 3.3 or 5V (since it has its own 3.3V regulator), for now I've been powering off the PC usb, to isolate the power draw, but its only 100mA or peak so on the 5V. I guess next step is ...

Any advice for troubleshooting the 5V regulator? I couldn't source the MP2359 so I hand soldered a XRP7659. sometimes the chip appears to go into shutdown mode and sometimes it comes up just fine. If I remove everything from the board, current sensor and WemosD1( wifi) then the 5V power supply comes...

Some progress.

Gooey gooey

http://warpedporsche.blogspot.com/2022/ ... rdown.html

The panasonic capacitors are marked 430V 150uF x3