That's about right; it's four modules down from the full 44...I'm not sure how to gauge real world capacity at this point!

Small battery, tiny car...

Alas, I'm moving out of my garage, and the Mini is getting caught up in the downsize! It is a 1992 JDM import (Japanese SPi/MPi) that is currently registered and insured to my LLC in Montana with a clean Montana title. It is currently in my personal garage in Hollywood, CA.

I've been driving this ...

I have four Leaf modules that I'm getting rid of in Hollywood, CA. All cells are between 3.7-3.8V, and have been sitting like that in my closet since I finished my project.

Honestly, I just don't want to throw them away during my move, so any forum member can throw me a beer and we'll call it even...

Just here to cheer you on! The Bolt is the next "standard" in EV conversion parts...

Would these be reasonable in "dumb" 12V systems such as you might find in a classic car without having to mess with communication or special alternator/regulators?

I think you're only real constraint is space!

I don't see an extra 100kg here or there ruining the legendary handling of an ancient bus at low speeds...

For big stuff I still use bolts and lugs.

For small stuff, Deutsch connectors are fantastic, but expensive (for tools as well). WeatherPak is also good and probably more common. Still expensive.

I often use Molex connectors used in a desktop computers. MiniFit Jr, etc. Cheap and good enough. If ...

What are the module specs and dimensions? I assume that even without CAN messages, a battery is a battery and could be used in conversions...

Ah, I guess it’s CANBUS stuff? I used a power drill to twist some two wires together on my car

CAT5 and the like are just a real pain to work with

I don't think it matters...I used 18 or 22 AWG wire because it's the smallest wire that is easy to work with. Getting special multi-wire cables didn't seem worth it over just a big ol' spool of 22

Just give the price

Yup, fuse is blown. Thanks all!

I have a 300V 100A fuse (I think it's a Littelfuse JLLN 100 ) and I'm trying to figure out if it's good or blown or what.

I attached one end to a battery that read 12.5V and the voltage after the fuse was 2.7V. I measured resistance across it and my multimeter read about 23 MΩ. I'm not really sure ...

Is this in California or Australia?

Well that's interesting...I pid $3.35/ft here a few years ago:

https://weldingsupply.com/cgi-bin/einst ... 304-1330UF

Black cable is currently like $4.50/ft in 2/0...Might still be able to save a couple bucks by buying orange tape instead to mark it!

Where are you getting those prices? Buy welding cable.

I used 2/0. I think Nissan used 1/0.

No batteries under the hood? I wonder what the corner weights are...

This will be a fun car.

Throw some prices out

Page TMS-25 of the (extensive and free) 2014 Nissan Leaf service manual says the inverter input is 240-403V. I can't remember where I found it...

Thunderstruck says it works at 140V, but I don't know where they got that number.

Shit, I'd buy it if it were stateside.

There is now a pretty sweet kit available for converting these without fabrication.

This is good work, y'all.

What does that buy you? Aren't the ratios between Leaf years very, very similar (pretty much just 8:1)?

Wait, really? I remember connecting mine to 12V and it never spun. I can't remember how long I attached the leads for, though...Maybe I disconnected them too soon.

Just outstanding work. I eagerly await further progress.

Buy a Thunderstruck VCU for $500 and worry about increasing torque after you've put a few thousand miles on the finished conversion. There will be more options in the future.