Hmm, how accurate would that dc motor be over time? At least with a stepper (and possibly a gearbox) you can control the speed directly - and know that it's consistent.

Hm, good point. It does have some antisquat built in, but I don't recall how much at the moment. If I wanted more I could just relocate the front brackets (or make them adjustable somehow), wouldn't be too hard. I'll see how it is with the new springs first though. What's on there now are just what ...

Wasn't able to go for another drive for a while because of work and weather, but I managed to sneak out for a bit today. I went to a nearby unmanned scale to check the car weight against the bathroom scales at home, and this scale said I was about 760kg with a 42%/58% front/rear balance. I'm hoping ...

Oh I love that. Very cool how you can press the D button to cycle through regen settings.

Very cool! I think I saw in a driver interview that the friction brakes are not used at all in this current generation vehicle - they are just there as a backup in case of a fault or other emergency. More here: https://www.thedrive.com/accelerator/formula-e-cars-dont-need-rear-brakes-so-theyve-been-...

I'm not sure how good an idea this is, but I've got a Leaf gen2 PDM with the 6.6kW charger and I'm wondering what it would take to use it as an offboard charger. I'm thinking I could mount it to a frame, plumb a coolant loop and maybe use the dc/dc to power a coolant pump and whatever else is needed...

Wow, this is really amazing. Definitely beyond my level though, so I still don't have anything intelligent to add. PM me your details whenever you like and I'll get that contractor in the mail to you.

Wow, that's interesting. Wonder if some copper shielding tape would also help?

Love the badge, nice that it works out being that it's all from the same brand!

Okay, I did not have the right syncofs. Everything is fine now, but I did have a rough few minutes getting it sorted out. It was hard to tell with the car in the air but on the ground it was obvious, the torque response was very different in either direction. I tried a small change first and that fe...

The DRV103s I have are all non-heatsink version (all that was available at the time I ordered them). I do have two more unpopulated PCBs and a handful of components sitting around, will see if I can cobble something together. I'd also be happy to mail you one of the contactors if you'd like to try i...

Yeah, I have a copy of the previous design in my car and it's working. I don't have a lot of testing hours on it yet, but so far so good with the 11ohm contactors.

(This was taken when I removed it from the car to replace the screw terminal with a spring terminal)

LEV200A4NAA is what I have in the car - 11 ohm coil.

Chrysler Pacifica battery has EVC500 contactors - 3.14 ohm coil. I have two on the shelf if that's any use.

Is it really a big problem to pull that much current just for the first 110ms though?

WOW! That's absolutely amazing. When you say you have to pre order the DRV chip, do they still solder it or is it shipped loose? And is that included in the $15? Even if it isn't, $15 looks like a great price for all that.

Small update in case anyone finds the above post and is having a similar issue. I verified that yes the 500Hz equates to a 7 500 rpm redline. Bumped it to 650 for my next drive. I also tried the syncofs calibration again and this time I got a completely different number. 17 000 instead of 1 000. I d...

Went for a longer (25km according to Google, 28km according to the odometer) drive today. WOW this thing pulls! I didn't have a safe place to try a full throttle pull (and it was only 10 degrees C) but the part throttle acceleration is quite impressive, at least to me. The BMS says I used 4.4kWh (of...

Can you tell which way it's going? Is it regen or is it spinning forward?

Ooh, that's a great idea! I don't think I ever mentioned it, but the front uprights are from a 2000 Ford Mustang. That was a strut car, and I had to add a bolt-on adapter for the upper control arm, as well as an extended lower ball joint. Not a terribly elegant solution, and it's on my list of thing...

Did my first (very short) drive today! The weather was nice this weekend, and I managed to get things sorted out enough to go for a couple laps around the block. During my efforts to configure my Thunderstruck MCU I had an issue with the 'fanontemp' and 'fanofftemp' variables not working, which was ...

@thingstodo have you tried it yet? I'm curious how the car (and EVSE) reacted to the MSW inverter. I've been reading in some places that the charger might have trouble with a MSW input and cause it to heat up or pass on some harmonics to the battery. I have no idea if there's any truth to any of tha...

That frequency seems to be almost the same as my tinnitus, had to really play with the volume to make sure I was hearing it. If my car was doing that I would probably try to isolate it with an automotive stethoscope if possible. I'd be checking different parts of the drive unit as well as the wheel ...

It feels unsophisticated, but that's why I had a regulator in the original.

Oh, wow. So in effect the pedal will register WOT at that point and the rest of the travel is wasted?

Well for what it's worth, the Prius pedal on my Leaf OI board has a range of about 1000~3200 on channel 1 and 500~2800 on channel 2.

Potmax is 4095, is that really what you're reading with the pedal to the floor?

Tested the charger and DC/DC converter today. Using the gen 1 Volt DC/DC with the MCU is pretty cool because I can just set the output voltage via command line. Verified with my multimeter as I adjusted it up and down. And after a little messing around, the charger works! I have two portable level 1...

I mean the Pacifica battery, according to EVWest can do like 800 amps burst from 1p. Can't one big cell do the same thing as 3 cells each 1/3 the size? Or 10 cells 1/10 the size?