With the battery pack out of the way for now I am back on the truck. Got the brakes mostly sorted. It's a completely revamped setup with new calipers and pads up front, new cylinders and shoes on the back, and all new brake lines throughout with a residual pressure relief and adjustable proportional...

Yes exactly, they seem to change orientation. See my post from today as an example, pics display sideways, if you click them they open the right way:

viewtopic.php?t=3165&start=50

I'm sure I'm just being an idiot, but it's frustrating me no end!

Maybe I'm missing something, but is there an easy way to post pictures without them rotating. I've been spending ages cropping before posting to prevent this, maybe there is an easier way?

The original pack had desiccant packs inside on a 1 year replacement schedule to keep things dry, not sure how much it will help, but cant hurt, so adding these too. The packs were labeled 2015, so clearly some deferred maintenance here, and perhaps contributed to my corroded cell tap. Opened the ba...

Grafted on the pressure relief parts from the original pack Cut down and rewelded the Tesla cover plate

Got the module back into the pack and rewired things up. All cells now reading as normal.

Needed my little emotional support animal to comfort me through this ordeal

jrbe wrote: ↑Wed May 22, 2024 10:45 pm How hard was it keeping metal dust out / from falling in?

Not too bad, most swarf came out the front, and then the drill went into the plastic casing a bit rather than into an open cavity so I think its all good. I had a vacuum on it as well.

Thanks jrbe, that looks like a great idea and might try these if I decide to do all the modules. For now I tried a fix with parts I had. Drilled and tapped and added a stubby cut down M3 bolt to hold the celltap. Will lather with 2 part epoxy as well and hit the other wires with the goo too for good...

Ok swapped slave boards and the problem stayed with the module.
Removed module from pack and found this corroded celltap.
Now need to figure out best method to reattach - any suggestions?

OK, facing a bit of a setback. After finishing the battery box covers, and the BMS wiring, I connected it up before sealing the lid. Now I am seeing bad cell readings on one module: Simp reading.PNG Note my modules are 7s, and the BMS boards each have 2 BMS chips, so each physical module is represen...

Still need to finish the lid, and am going to try and reuse these pressure vents from the original pack and maybe cutdown and incorporate the Tesla cover plate

Finally getting this hulk off the table 20240509_095730.jpg 20240509_101315.jpg Weight is in lbs. Load leveler and chains are 16lbs, so 566lbs total. About the same as a fully dressed Chevy small block V8, so maybe not too bad having all the weight up front in engine bay, although granted, my weight...

Almost ready to drop in battery pack front end.jpg One thing bothering me is I have not yet welded the spring perches to the front axle. This sets the pinion angle for the front diff, and the weight from the battery pack I heard will compress the springs, causing a rotation to the axle housing, alte...

Same for inverter on other side

Outlander charger seems to fit nicely on top of the wheel arch/fender well. Fabricated mounting brackets

Loving the transmission access in this rig

Not mounted yet, but found some manual slider, heated seats from a Smartfortwo car

Built a mount for the Tesla model 3 throttle pedal

Front mount.jpg OK, the sun came back out and we are back on the wagon. Had to re-do the front transmission mount when I realized I hadn't planned for the front driveshaft travel (shown here is just a galvanized tube obviously, not the driveshaft :) ) Not a great pic, as the battery rear crossmembe...

I can vouch for Reider from Vero-Electric. I purchased his VeroBMS and have had great customer support!

It's been raining more than usual here (and of course only at weekends) so not much going on. My neighbor did stop by and ask was I building a CyberTruck

Agree, harvest those extra leads and you may have enough extra to only need to buy the cheaper bare connector for your next conversion

I thought I was done with structural rust repair and then spotted this little guy lurking under the dash 20240316_112900.jpg Of course, it turned into a bigger adventure than I anticipated when I looked from the other side. Needed to sort it out as it is around the door pillar area. Tricky spot with...

Cleaned up underside and working on parking brake cable routing which is different for these jeep axles than on the original Scout Fabricated new bracket and welded to frame

I dunno Greg, it's just down the road from you...... Bunnies are notorious for multiplying

Small update, but lots of time messing around finding fittings and parts to completely replumb the braking system. Chevy Volt Gen1 iBooster, proportional valve and 10 lb residual pressure release valve for the rear drums. All new NiCopp brake line throughout. First time using this stuff, and I'm sol...