Will share the pcap file when I get back to the lab, in around two weeks. It is an incomplete session, time out after 12 sec at pre-charge. The session is to find out if Tesla close DC contactor during simulated charging, but it does not. Regarding your plan to build an adaptor, is it passive sniff...

From what I have captured during model Y charging session, Tesla does not support ISO 15118, so no suppory for plug and charge at the moment. Did you capture the communication between the charger and the car? Any chance you have that somewhere I could look at? I was about to build an adapter to go ...

Some extra info I forgot to add: at one point, these slaves were balancing correctly and had all the cells within .01v. One day though I discovered that the slaves appeared to be unbalancing the packs from each other (even though nothing in my code changed). Like the large battery cells read 4.0v, t...

Did you check if there are any wiring differences for them? As far as the traces on the pcbs? They appear identical, just different colors. As far as the slave wiring itself I don't really have a way to look. The red slave that came on the spare battery I bought was missing all the wiring so I have...

Are you sure you are working with gen 2 BMS? I'm pretty sure that BMS isn't distributed. Can you add some pictures of your test setup? I'm not sure actually. Here's photos of the two boards. My test setup is just my VCU wired directly to 1 slave instead of the whole set of slaves so I can try 1 at ...

Can someone point me towards some info on the difference between gen1 and gen2 Volt BMS slave firmware? I have 2 full packs with Gen1 slaves and I can read all the cell voltages fine, but I cannot get them to balance. I have a single gen2 slave that came with a spare battery I bought from a guy that...

I would also be interested in doing a group buy of custom seals. I'd be in for at least 2

Yes of course. Thx. I suspected that this is all that is necessary. I tested it this morning by just removing power to my Forward / Reverse selector switch. I haven't decided exactly yet, but probably a three position selector switch with indicator lights for Forward, Neutral and Reverse will work ...

johu: redacted excessive quote - please quote selectively Is the red seal original or refurbished? And have you tried following the qr code on it? I appears to be original, I haven't tried to scan it, that part # is an internal tesla part # so I'm sure the QR code will be similar Speaking of seals,...

I emailed Electrified Garage, asking for info, but they didn't deign to even email back to tell me to go fly a kite (as we Yanks like to say). I also emailed them but this is the response I got: https://i.imgur.com/XETDp01.jpg I would also be curious to know what Rev everyones motors are. According...

Did you have a way to visually see what was damaged? My ldu is bricked with overcurrent errors (confirmed the openinverter board and parameters are fine by swapping with another ldu). For now I'm just going to put the motor aside but if i can slowly pick at repairing it that would be great... If yo...

Did you have a way to visually see what was damaged? My ldu is bricked with overcurrent errors (confirmed the openinverter board and parameters are fine by swapping with another ldu). For now I'm just going to put the motor aside but if i can slowly pick at repairing it that would be great...

Looks like my inverter is toast most likely. I put the board in a spare motor and hooked it up to the car with the same parameters and it worked. I'm going to swap the motors tomorrow and see if there's any visible damage

I NEED to know the part name/numbers for that coolant disconnect setup. I poorly designed my cooling system and bleeding it takes forever. This would solve some headaches!

I noticed numimp=39 but should be 36. Not sure if that should lead to immediate overcurrent though but should certainly be corrected Just changed it, it didn't fix the overcurrent but good to know What does UDC say in spot values? Is it close to actual voltage? Perhaps unrelated but your UDCMIN and...

P.S.Mangelsdorf wrote: ↑Sat May 14, 2022 12:34 pm Boost looks to be on the high end of what the LDU likes. Try bringing it down to 1400.

Just tried that, still overcurrent

Good evening, I'm experiencing a persistent overcurrent issue I am hoping to get help with. I recently upgraded my firmware from 4.97 to 5.14. After doing this I realized I forgot to backup my parameters but had a screenshot from some point when it was running. I plugged in all my parameters (except...

I replaced the olimex on my motor board with a D1. It was so much easier to program and setup. Anecdotal, but it seems like it connects faster and has slightly better range. I'm a little concerned about motor vibrations but I'll just keep an eye on it and worse case have to pull it out and try somet...

I attached a header and my ST link. It first was able to connect, then it abruptly lost connection and cannot reconnect, here's the report I got: 17:20:12 : STM32CubeProgrammer API v2.7.0 17:20:22 : ST-LINK SN : 48FF6B066685535734150787 17:20:22 : ST-LINK FW : V2J29S7 17:20:22 : Board : -- 17:20:22 ...

Tried uploading again today ands till no luck, also tried without anything else plugged into the board. Not sure what to do next, I have a header I could solder on and try loading it via STLink and see if that does the trick?

1.6V is good, 2.1V might point towards a dodgy connection between sensor and board. The file is also correct. The LED flashed initially before attempting to upgrade? Yes when I first installed it the light was flashing correctly. Once in the car it also worked correctly and showed parameters/ turne...

Ah sorry I meant between the test points and GND. But those only make sense with the current sensors (ISENSE) connected. Not sure why your board does not come back up. Which exact file are you uploading? I have the ISENSE connected to the pcb, just don't have the high voltage leads from the car con...

Try reuploading 4.97 again. Took me two tries before it successfully uploaded. I've tried a few times, even after letting it sit overnight. I tried 4.96 as well just to see if it would do anything Ok good. What voltage do you see on the test points next to R45 and below R58? Those are the current s...

johu wrote: ↑Wed Jun 02, 2021 11:31 am Unfortunately diagnostic info is a bit coarse, as all fault signals are tied together. So manually check IC10 pins 1, 2, 4, 5, 6, 11. They must all read high (about 5V)

Just checked and they all read high:

1- 4.8v
2- 4.8v
4- 4.8v
5- 5.0v
6-5.0v
11-5.0v

the negative contactor is usually between 12V ignition and Vehicle ground. It can only shutoff after the 12V is switched off. Are you sure that your 12V supply is sufficient? You're right, sorry, I meant the pre-charge and the positive click off, the negative does stay on with the 12v switched power.