Tesla Model 3 Drive Unit PCB Install - Revision history

Davefiddes: Update with the details of the V3.2 PCB installation process. Many extra steps and workarounds are no longer required and have been removed. Fixed various grammatical errors and misspellings.

2026-03-23T15:01:04Z

Update with the details of the V3.2 PCB installation process. Many extra steps and workarounds are no longer required and have been removed. Fixed various grammatical errors and misspellings.

Show changes

Davefiddes: /* Bench Testing the Motor */ Avoid repeating headings

2025-12-03T18:35:49Z

Bench Testing the Motor: Avoid repeating headings

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:35, 3 December 2025
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	#* It may be possible to hear the 8.8kHz resolver exciter tone		#* It may be possible to hear the 8.8kHz resolver exciter tone

	=== ~~Bench Testing~~ the Motor ===		=== Spinning the Motor ===

	# Check the following inverter parameters:		# Check the following inverter parameters:

Davefiddes: Add details on how to spin the motor

2025-12-03T14:25:12Z

Add details on how to spin the motor

@@ Line 25: / Line 25: @@
 * USB CAN adapter with [https://github.com/davefiddes/openinverter-can-tool OpenInverter CAN Tool] '''OR''' ESP32 CAN interface with [https://github.com/jsphuebner/esp32-web-interface/tree/can-backend esp32-web-interface] can firmware
 * Multimeter
-* 48V DC power supply '''OR'''' 24V battery
+* 48V DC power supply '''OR''' battery with current limiting heating element or incandescent light bulb
+* Dual channel throttle pedal (e.g. BMW E36 throttle pedal)
 == Fit missing components to the replacement PCB - Beta Version only ==
@@ Line 298: / Line 300: @@
 # Solder each MOSFET pin
 #* Be careful when soldering not to keep the iron on the pin for too long. If heat is applied for too long the solder, assisted by gravity, can wick down the pins into the bus bars on the chassis and cause shorts.

Davefiddes: Split tools into 3 categories

2025-12-03T13:43:46Z

Split tools into 3 categories

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:43, 3 December 2025
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	=== Tools Required ===		=== Tools Required ===

			==== Electronics Assembly Tools ====
	* Soldering iron		* Soldering iron
	* Solder		* Solder
	* Gel flux such as Kingbo RMA-218		* Gel flux such as Kingbo RMA-218
			* Desoldering braid
	* Vacuum desoldering gun		* Vacuum desoldering gun
	** 320°C		** 320°C
	** 0.8 mm desoldering nozzle		** 0.8 mm desoldering nozzle
	* Blow torch or 250W soldering iron		* Blow torch or 250W soldering iron

			==== Hand Tools ====
	* Tweezers		* Tweezers
	* Magnifying glass		* Magnifying glass
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	* Torx T20 screwdriver		* Torx T20 screwdriver
	* Small flat bladed screwdriver		* Small flat bladed screwdriver

			==== Commissioning Tools ====
	* Bench PSU capable of supplying 12V		* Bench PSU capable of supplying 12V
	* USB CAN adapter with [https://github.com/davefiddes/openinverter-can-tool OpenInverter CAN Tool] '''OR''' ESP32 CAN interface with [https://github.com/jsphuebner/esp32-web-interface/tree/can-backend esp32-web-interface] can firmware		* USB CAN adapter with [https://github.com/davefiddes/openinverter-can-tool OpenInverter CAN Tool] '''OR''' ESP32 CAN interface with [https://github.com/jsphuebner/esp32-web-interface/tree/can-backend esp32-web-interface] can firmware
	* Multimeter		* Multimeter
			* 48V DC power supply '''OR'''' 24V battery

Davefiddes: Add the section on finally mounting the PCB to the chassis

2025-12-03T12:38:01Z

Add the section on finally mounting the PCB to the chassis

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:38, 3 December 2025
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	# Repeat for TP23 (IL2) which should read the same value		# Repeat for TP23 (IL2) which should read the same value
	# Optionally check the error list in your CAN configuration tool. The HICUROFS1 and HICUROFS2 errors should now not be present.		# Optionally check the error list in your CAN configuration tool. The HICUROFS1 and HICUROFS2 errors should now not be present.

			== Main 30-pin Connector Fitting ==

			# Clamp the 30-pin connector array
			# Use solder braid and some flux to clean all the excess solder from all pins
			# Insert the connector into the PCB
			# Tack two corner pins with solder
			# Flip the board over and ensure that plastic mount on the connector is flush with the board
			#* It is critical that the connector is mounted flush otherwise the mating connector on the wiring harness will not engage cleanly
			# Solder all of the remaining pins

			== Fitting the PCB to the Inverter Chassis ==

			=== Preparing the PCB ===

			# The PCB is supplied with 3 thermistor temperature sensors
			# Insert each thermistor into the underside of the PCB
			#* Don't solder the thermistors at this stage, just bend the leads to hold them in place
			# Place the insulation shield recovered from the Tesla PCB over the underside of the board
			# Fit the shield using the 6 plastic clips from the Telsa PCB
			# Optional: Fit the WiFi/Terminal header and SWD Prog headers if desired
			#* WiFi control boards will not fit or function within the inverter when fitted to the motor but can be useful for bench testing

			=== Fitting the PCB to the Chassis ===

			# Place the main inverter chassis on the bench
			# Lower the PCB onto the chassis in roughly the following order
			## HVIL pins at the top of the board
			## Locating dowel in the top-right of the board
			## 4 DC bus capacitor pins in the middle of the board
			## Main MOSFET pins
			## Locating dowel in the bottom-left of the board
			#* Tap gently but don't apply any significant pressure
			#* MOSFET pins may require gentle tweaking to get the alignment correct
			# Check with a finger that pins are through the board
			#* Each MOSFET position has two pins (labelled S and G)
			#* There are two HVIL pins (labelled CONN1)
			#* There are 4 DC bus capacitor pins( labelled E12, E13, E14 and E15)
			# Screw in each of the T20 fasteners to the PCB
			#* Beta boards only : Don't fit a screw in H10 as the hole is in the wrong place
			#* Hole alignment is improving with each board revision. A little jiggling from side to side may be required to get all fasteners to fit.

			=== Soldering the Chassis Components ===

			# Lift the inverter chassis to be able to look into the side
			# Push the leads of thermistor ST1 down into the thermal compound on the chassis
			# Solder the leads on the thermistor
			# Repeat for thermistors ST2 and ST3 in between the MOSFETs
			# Solder the 4 DC bus capacitor pins E12, E13, E14 and E15
			# Recheck each of the MOSFET pins are visible through the PCB before starting to solder
			#* Some inverters have only 3 pairs of MOSFETs for each phase others 4
			# Solder each MOSFET pin
			#* Be careful when soldering not to keep the iron on the pin for too long. If heat is applied for too long the solder, assisted by gravity, can wick down the pins into the bus bars on the chassis and cause shorts.

Davefiddes: Add DC-DC converter installation and current consumption check

2025-12-02T18:45:09Z

Add DC-DC converter installation and current consumption check

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:45, 2 December 2025
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	#* Be careful to avoid shorts between pins - these can be cleaned up with desoldering braid		#* Be careful to avoid shorts between pins - these can be cleaned up with desoldering braid
	#* Access on the lower side of the chips nearest to the bottom of the board is limited. Be careful to avoid dislodging the many small passive components around the IC.		#* Access on the lower side of the chips nearest to the bottom of the board is limited. Be careful to avoid dislodging the many small passive components around the IC.

			=== Fit DC-DC Converter - Beta Version only ===

			# Insert the DC-DC converter and tack one pin
			# Ensure there is some pressure on the top of the DC-DC converter
			# Reflow the tacked pin to ensure the DC-DC converter is flush to the board
			#* This is important to avoid fatigue of the converter pins
			# Finish soldering all the remaining pins

	== Initial Power Up Testing ==		== Initial Power Up Testing ==
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	#* D18 should light for 1 second then start flashing at 2Hz		#* D18 should light for 1 second then start flashing at 2Hz
	#* GATE FAULT should flash once and then remain off		#* GATE FAULT should flash once and then remain off
			# Verify current consumption is around 300mA

	=== Verify Status ===		=== Verify Status ===

Davefiddes: Detail the current sensor installation

2025-12-02T14:51:41Z

Detail the current sensor installation

@@ Line 123: / Line 123: @@
 The following components can be purchased new and do not need to be recovered:
 * Gate drive transformer : [https://www.mouser.ie/ProductDetail/810-VGT22EPC200S6A12 TDK VGT22EPC-200S6A12]
 * Gate driver IC : [https://www.mouser.ie/ProductDetail/511-STGAP1BSTR STGAP1BSTR]
@@ Line 167: / Line 166: @@
 It is important to check that the components we have fitted are working correctly while the board is still easy to work on.
 # Using the CAN configuration tool check the errors list
-#* There should be two errors: HIRESOFS and OILPUMPFAULT
+#* There should be four errors: HIRESOFS, HICUROFS1, HICUROFS2 and OILPUMPFAULT
 #* More errors indicates that trouble shooting is required
 # Set the multimeter to DC volts and check the following test points:
@@ Line 192: / Line 191: @@
 | TP18 || TP15 || 18.2 V || Low-side phase B gate drive positive supply
 |}

Davefiddes: Add section on verifying correct operation and voltages on initial power up

2025-12-02T13:06:29Z

Add section on verifying correct operation and voltages on initial power up

@@ Line 17: / Line 17: @@
 * Small flat bladed screwdriver
 * Bench PSU capable of supplying 12V
@@ Line 149: / Line 151: @@
 #* Pin 3 - Switched +12V
 #* Top left mounting hole - Ground
 # Identify the 3 indicator LEDs on the board:
 #* D7 3V3 ACTIVE - Located top right of the board
@@ Line 158: / Line 163: @@
 #* D18 should light for 1 second then start flashing at 2Hz
 #* GATE FAULT should flash once and then remain off

Davefiddes: Remove the step prefix. The wiki will number each heading

2025-12-01T18:22:37Z

Remove the step prefix. The wiki will number each heading

Davefiddes: Up to initial power on

2025-11-27T13:00:13Z

Up to initial power on

@@ Line 16: / Line 16: @@
 * Torx T20 screwdriver
 * Small flat bladed screwdriver
@@ Line 112: / Line 113: @@
 === Alternate Technique ===
-# As above but use a 250W soldering iron and fresh solder
+* As above but use a 250W soldering iron and fresh solder

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:22, 1 December 2025
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	== ~~Step 1:~~ Fit missing components to the replacement PCB - Beta Version only ==		== Fit missing components to the replacement PCB - Beta Version only ==

	If you are using a Beta version of the replacement PCB, you will need to fit some missing components before installation. These will be supplied in a bag with the board.		If you are using a Beta version of the replacement PCB, you will need to fit some missing components before installation. These will be supplied in a bag with the board.
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	* When soldering the transistors solder the small pins first to hold them in place, then solder the larger tab last. You may find heavier gauge solder useful for the tab. Apply heat to the tab and allow capillary action to draw solder under the tab.		* When soldering the transistors solder the small pins first to hold them in place, then solder the larger tab last. You may find heavier gauge solder useful for the tab. Apply heat to the tab and allow capillary action to draw solder under the tab.

	== ~~Step 2:~~ Remove OEM PCB from the inverter housing ==		== Remove OEM PCB from the inverter housing ==

	[[File:M3inverter-parts.jpg\|thumb\|454x454px\|parts/ connections to salvage/ unsolder]]		[[File:M3inverter-parts.jpg\|thumb\|454x454px\|parts/ connections to salvage/ unsolder]]
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	#* Save the insulating shield for later with the replacement PCB		#* Save the insulating shield for later with the replacement PCB

	== ~~Step 3:~~ Recover gate drive components from the Tesla PCB (Optional) ==		== Recover gate drive components from the Tesla PCB (Optional) ==

	=== Remove Gate Driver Transformer ===		=== Remove Gate Driver Transformer ===
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	#* The conformal coating means the chip will not lift as easily as a regular PCB. Only a tiny amount of force will be required to break the adhesion though.		#* The conformal coating means the chip will not lift as easily as a regular PCB. Only a tiny amount of force will be required to break the adhesion though.

	== ~~Step 4:~~ Remove current sensor ==		== Remove current sensor ==

	# Unscrew the 3 screws securing the current sensor block using the Torx T10 screwdriver		# Unscrew the 3 screws securing the current sensor block using the Torx T10 screwdriver
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	#* Use tweezers to gently work the sensors free from the board		#* Use tweezers to gently work the sensors free from the board

	== ~~Step 5:~~ Remove 30-pin low-voltage connector ==		== Remove 30-pin low-voltage connector ==

	# Clamp the plastic holder on the bottom of the array of pins that make up the low-voltage connector in a vice		# Clamp the plastic holder on the bottom of the array of pins that make up the low-voltage connector in a vice
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	* As above but use a 250W soldering iron and fresh solder		* As above but use a 250W soldering iron and fresh solder

	== ~~Step 6:~~ Assemble Recovered Components to the PCB ==		== Assemble Recovered Components to the PCB ==

	=== Purchasable Components ===		=== Purchasable Components ===
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	#* Access on the lower side of the chips nearest to the bottom of the board is limited. Be careful to avoid dislodging the many small passive components around the IC.		#* Access on the lower side of the chips nearest to the bottom of the board is limited. Be careful to avoid dislodging the many small passive components around the IC.

	== ~~Step 7:~~ Initial Power Up Testing ==		== Initial Power Up Testing ==

	Before attempting to install the PCB on the inverter chassis it is important to test the assembly on the bench. This allows faults from the assembly process to be rectified more simply.		Before attempting to install the PCB on the inverter chassis it is important to test the assembly on the bench. This allows faults from the assembly process to be rectified more simply.