openinverter.org wiki - User contributions [en]

Lexus GS450h Drivetrain

2022-12-14T02:00:03Z

Mark: /* Lexus GS450h VCU (deprecated) */ Collapsed deprecated section so as to visually take up as much of the page. The text can still be found via search and by expanding the section.

== Inverter ==
[[File:Inverter connector.png|thumb|GS450h inverter external connector|187x187px]]

The Lexus GS450h is a hybrid vehicle. Their inverters are suitable and attractive for DIY EVs because of:
* Good availability and price - an inverter and "transmission" can generally be purchased for less than £/€1000.
* Durability. Toyota engineers appear to have made the inverters foolproof, many inputs and outputs gracefully handle fault conditions.

* Respectable performance. Rated for a combined 250kW output.
* Ease of repurposing. Emulating the original ECU seems reasonably feasible. The transmission is a similar size and layout to many RWD transmissions.
The Lexus GS450h (2006-2012 model years) has a variety of useful components inside the inverter package:

* Two high power inverters, for the 2 motors MG1 capable of handling X(?) amps, and MG2 capable of handling Y(?) amps.
* A boost module to boost the 288v battery pack up to 650v as used in the Lexus (Note that voltages this high are not required for EV conversions).

For technical analysis of this unit, see pages 14-47 of this document: <ref name=":0">https://www.osti.gov/servlets/purl/928684</ref>

If you combine a LHD transmission with a RHD inverter (or vice versa) you might end up with a motor that is juddering, not spinning. IN this case you need to swap any two phase cables of both MG1 and MG2.

The inverter is capable of running at full speeds on pack voltages from approx. 280V upwards. The maximum allowable input voltage is 650V, so far, many have found that "standard" EV voltages of 300V-360V to be well suited.

'''Note that even though the inverter maximum voltage rating is 650V, a 650V battery pack is not required to run this unit. It is capable of excellent performance at lower voltages, such as the typical 300V-360V found in most EVs. However, there is the opportunity to use larger packs with this unit if required in your application.'''

Should a higher voltage pack be chosen in your application for any reason, the buck/boost converter can be used to power auxiliary equipment at its native voltage.

Weight: 40 lbs

Dimensions: 14" x 9-1/2" x 8-1/2"

=== Buck/Boost Converter ===
A buck/boost converter lives within the inverter housing, originally this is used to step up the 288V battery pack in the GS450h to the 650V for use in the inverter in the GS. (Note that this does not mean the inverter requires 650V to run, it is simply a maximum rating) For those using a 600+V battery pack, this converter can be used to step the voltage down to a more reasonable level to interface with chargers, DCDC converters, heaters, AC compressors, and other components which can be found in "regular" EV's (Tesla, LEAF, Volt, etc.).

This unit is rated at 30kW, making it unsuitable for traction power, but good for auxiliary devices.

Details on how to control the converter are here: https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=538

For technical analysis of this unit, see pages 14-47 of this document: <ref name=":0" />

== Transmission ==
[[File:Inverter.png|thumb|213x213px|GS450h inverter and transmission pinout]]
For technical analysis of this transmission, see pages 46 and onward of this document:<ref>https://www.osti.gov/servlets/purl/947393 </ref>

The transmission contains two "Motor-Generator" units. MG1 sits at the front of the transmission, and interfaces with the internal combustion engine through a planetary gear set. For this reason, to obtain torque from MG1, the input shaft of the transmission must be locked in place. This is usually done using a splined coupler, which is then welded onto the transmission front mount.

The input shaft on the transmission has 21 splines, with a 28mm major diameter. It is believed that there are several Toyota clutches which will have this in their centre. The original GS450h flywheel and coupler also contains the appropriate splined centre, of course.

The fluid fill port is the banjo bolt for the upper transmission cooler hose. The specified fluid is "Toyota WS" ATF.

It is a good idea to replace the two bearings in the electric oil pump before fitting a used transmission. There is a guide here<ref>http://carlthomas66.blogspot.com/2016/03/lexus-gs450h-transmission-oil-pump.html (Backup: [https://web.archive.org/web/20200209212622/http://carlthomas66.blogspot.com/2016/03/lexus-gs450h-transmission-oil-pump.html Web Archive])</ref>. Bearing part numbers are 61900-2Z and 608-2Z, you will need one of each.

[[File:Shift position.png|thumb|154x154px|GS450h shift position sensor]]
The shift position lever on the right-hand side of the transmission engages the parking pawl when in the "all-the-way-back" position. All other positions disengage this pawl. The R, N, D, M positions only affect the output of the shift position sensor.

Note the following when purchasing the transmission:
* It is recommended to purchase one which has the electric oil pump fitted - these are a costly item as the bearings in them often fail, in some cases they cost more than the transmission. More on this in the Oil Pump section below.
* It is recommended to purchase a transmission which includes the wiring harness, or at least off-cuts of the connectors. Some connectors may be unavailable for purchase. There is a thread [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=271 here] which covers the connectors on this transmission.

=== Dimensions ===

* Overall height (oil pan to top of bellhousing) is 39cm. Bell housing is full height, i.e. 39cm diameter, when the transmission is sitting on its oil pan (as it is on my bench), the bellhousing still just about touches the bench.
* Widest point is 40cm, includes a bump for a starter motor which I don't believe the GS450h even has. Likely leftover to mate with the 2GR engine.
* Overall length including tailshaft, output flange, and pilot shaft, is 82cm.
* Transmission is tapered quite heavily, the width and height is closer to 25cm after the bellhousing, but hard to gauge due to various outcropping parts (motor cables, oil pump, PRNDL selector, etc.)
* Weight is 128kg. Unknown if this is dry or filled. Likely partially filled. Unknown if this includes oil pump and cables.
* The input shaft pokes out 29mm from the general highest point of the back of the bell housing? (e.g. set a 20cm ruler there and measure from it)
* The taper at the tip of the shaft before the splines appear fully is 6mm long. (i.e. the length of the tip portion without proper splines)
* The output flange bolt pattern is 52.5mm radius (about 91mm from hole to hole). It does not seem to have a machined flange surface, only the 22.5mm diameter ~3.2mm deep recesses around the bolt holes are machined. Pilot shaft diameter is 16mm. Internally the flange has 26 quite rectangular splines. (not 27 or so like Toyota's more common off-road applications).

=== Oil Pump ===

==== Overview and location ====
[[File:GS450h oil pump check.jpg|thumb|reference image showing the pump fitted (green), and not fitted red)]]
As built, the GS450h supplies oil pressure to the gearbox using either the ICE engine or an electrically-driven external pump. With the input shaft locked in EV applications, the external pump is the only option available. As mentioned previously, this is a vital part of the setup and it's strongly recommended to buy a transmission that still has it fitted. To help with this, here is a reference photo of what to look for.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
==== Wiring and control ====
[[File:GS450h oil pump controller.jpg|thumb|GS450h oil pump controller|alt=|150x150px]]The external pump also requires a controller, which uses a [[wikipedia:Pulse-width_modulation|PWM]] control scheme. Although this is rarely included with the transmission, it's quite affordably and widely available (Toyota part number: G1167-30020)

===== Pinouts, schematics and notes =====
[[File:Connector_-_A55_Oil_Pump_Motor_Controller_90980–12483.png|alt=|right|269x269px]]
[[File:Oilpump.png|alt=|right|300x300px]]
* The metal case is the ground.
* Black (pin 6) is PWM in from your controller.
* Brown (pin 7) is PWM feedback from the oil pump. It is not required and can be left disconnected.
* The fat blue wire (pin 5) is 12V power. The oil pump uses around 50A Max. So plan for that. Add your own relay to stop it draining your battery while the car is off.
* The PWM for this is weird, it's not just 0-100. IIRC it is 0% at both ends, and rises to 100% near the middle, then back down again. This is just based on the sound of the pump with no load, so needs more testing to find the real values.

[[File:Oil_Pump.png|alt=|386x386px]]

[[File:Gearbox_oil_pump_PWM.jpg|alt=|frameless]]

====Hardware====
As per ggeter:
"For those, like me, who didn't get the pump with the transmission unit, here are the part numbers for bolts and (what appears to be a metal) gasket."

Bolts (4) 90080-10197 $2.76 ea.

Gasket (1) 35142-30010 $14

The oil pump also contains 3 black rubber O-rings:

1 x 55mm internal diameter, 2.5mm cross section (for the black outer cover)

2 x 50mm internal diameter, 2.5mm cross section (between each 'layer' of the pump housing).

The oil pump motor cover is held onto the pump housing by 4 M5 x 16mm flanged screws.

== Wiring Harness Connectors ==
Here are a list of connectors required for the GS450h transmission & inverter if you need/wish to build the harness for your build. (It is a good idea to find components with at least the connectors to build on. As some of the connectors are impossible to obtain)

=== Inverter Connectors ===

==== OEM ====
{| class="wikitable"
!Connector
!Part No.
!Location
|-
|Inverter interface connector (A62)
|Toyota
90980–12630
|Black connector on the side of the inverter. This connector is not sold anywhere to our knowledge.
|}

==== Alternatives ====
A good alternative to this otherwise difficult to obtain connector is to replace the receptacle/header with the following parts from Molex:

===== Molex MX123 series =====
{| class="wikitable"
!Image
!Part No.
!Item
!Quantity
|-
|[[File:036638-0002.jpg|center|frameless|80x80px]]
|036638-0002
|CMC header connector 48pin
|1
|-
|[[File:064320-1311.jpg|center|frameless|80x80px]]
|064320-1311
|CMC receptacle 48pin
|1
|-
|[[File:064320-1301.jpg|center|frameless|80x80px]]
|064320-1301
|CMC wire cap
|1
|-
|[[File:064323-1039.jpg|center|frameless|80x80px]]
|064323-1039
|CP terminal
|4
|-
|[[File:064323-1029.jpg|center|frameless|80x80px]]
|064322-1039
|CP terminal
|32
|-
|[[File:064325-1010.jpg|center|frameless|80x80px]]
|064325-1010
|CMC plug
|8
|-
|[[File:064325-1023.jpg|center|frameless|80x80px]]
|064325-1023
|CMC plug
|4
|}

===== Assembly Instructions =====
Instructions on how to assemble the MX123 connector can be found here <ref>https://www.molex.com/mx_upload/family/MX123UserManual.pdf (Backup: [https://web.archive.org/web/20220129215727/https://www.molex.com/mx_upload/family/MX123UserManual.pdf Web Archive])</ref>.

===== Pinout =====
Use the following pinout to remap the internal connections from the Toyota plug to the Molex plug:
[[File:Inverter connections.png|none|thumb|GS450h Inverter/converter internal connections]]

=== Transmission Connectors ===
[[File:Image.png|none|thumb|GS450 transmission main connection locations]]
{| class="wikitable"
!Connector
!Part No.
!Location
!
|-
|ECT Solenoid (E83)
|Sumitomo 6189-1092
|Located on the left hand side of the transmission above the oil pan.
|[[File:Sumitomo 6189-1092.jpg|center|frameless|100x100px]]
|-
|Shift Lever Position Sensor (E80)
|Sumitomo 90980-12362
|Located on the right side of the transmission next to the shift lever inhibitor switch.
|[[File:Sumitomo 90980-12362.png|center|frameless|100x100px]]
|-
|MG1 & MG2 Resolver(s) (E81 & E82)
|Sumitomo 6189-1240
|Two connectors located on the left side of the transmission by the bell housing.
|[[File:Sumitomo 6189-1240.jpg|center|frameless|100x100px]]
|}

=== Oil Pump & Oil Pump Motor Controller ===
{| class="wikitable"
!Connector
!Part No.
!Location
|-
|Oil Pump Temperature Sensor
|Sumitomo 6189-0175
|The connector is the small 2-pin connector in the middle of the harness between the oil pump and controller
|-
|HVECU -> Oil Pump Controller (A52)
|Toyota 90980-12483
|Single large (7-way) connector on the side of the oil pump controller
|}

==Control Schemes==

===ZombieVerter VCU===
As of 2022, the preferred solution (and the only one under active development) is the [[ZombieVerter VCU]]

{| role="presentation" class="wikitable mw-collapsible mw-collapsed"
| Lexus GS450h VCU (deprecated)
|-
|

'''''UPDATE:''' the dedicated Lexus GS450h VCU has been superseded/replaced by the [[ZombieVerter VCU]]. This section is kept active solely as legacy documentation and differs in important ways from the ZombieVerter implementation.''

The Lexus GS450h VCU is an open source project to repurpose 2006-2012 Lexus GS450h inverters for DIY EV use. It consists of a circuit board and programming that communicates with the original logic board in the inverter and allows independent control of it without requiring a GS450h ECU.

An open-source VCU, designed by Damien Maguire, can be purchased as a partially populated board on his website: <ref name=":1">https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-webshop/vcu-boards/gs450h-vcu (Backup: [https://web.archive.org/web/20221016171604/https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-webshop/vcu-boards/gs450h-vcu Web Archive])</ref>[[File:Transmission.png|thumb|147x147px|GS450h transmission and oil pump temperature sensor]]
The VCU is an external unit that will not fit within the GS450h inverter housing. It does not replace the GS450h inverter control board, instead it interfaces with it over USART.

A full schematic for the system can be found at [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=12105#p12105 this link]

Note that in addition to the VCU, inverter and transmission, a specific CAN bus connected shunt (ISA shunt) is required: [[Isabellenhütte Heusler]]

For those who have purchased the fully built board, the mating connectors for the VCU are Molex parts:
*33472-2002 (Left side, grey in colour)

*33472-2001 (Right side, black in colour)
*33012-2002 (Crimp terminals)
*5810130065 (Enclosure)
For partially populated board, these additional parts are required:
*5810140011 (Header, 40 Pos.)
*75867-101LF (CONN1, Header for Wi-Fi module)
*5787834-1 (CONN2, USB 2.0 receptacle)
*TR10S05 (IC10, 5V DC/DC converter)
These parts are available from many electronics distributors.

====VCU Firmware====
Firmware to run on the VCU is available on Github : https://github.com/damienmaguire/Lexus-GS450H-Inverter-Controller

This guide relates to V3.01 available here on Github : https://github.com/damienmaguire/Lexus-GS450H-Inverter-Controller/blob/master/Software/gs450h_v3_user.ino

A video tutorial to accompany this guide and firmware is available here :https://vimeo.com/501777258

In order to aid those not familiar with programming, a new firmware with a basic serial interface is now available. This will be the default loaded onto all VCU boards sold on the EVBMW webshop as of 18/01/21.

This firmware is intended as a stop gap measure before a new Openinverter based version with a web based interface becomes available. (expect mid 2021).

====Instructions for use====
Connect a USB cable between the VCU and a PC.

Using a serial terminal program of your choice, connect at 115200,8,N,1.

Once connected, type ? and press enter. The following menu should then display :

<nowiki>=========== EVBMW GS450H VCU Version 3.01 ==============</nowiki>

<nowiki>************</nowiki> List of Available Commands ************

? - Print this menu

d - Print received data from inverter

D - Print configuration data

f - Calibrate minimum throttle.

g - Calibrate maximum throttle.

i - Set max drive torque (0-3500) e.g. typing i200 followed by enter sets max drive torque to 200

q - Set max reverse torque (0-3500) e.g. typing q200 followed by enter sets max reverse torque to 200

v - Set gearbox oil pump speed (0-100%) e.g. typing v50 followed by enter sets oil pump to 50% speed

a - Select LOW gear.

s - Select HIGH gear.

z - Save configuration data to EEPROM memory

<nowiki>**************************************************************</nowiki>

The menu system allows for the display of data from both the VCU, GS450H Inverter and gearbox as well as setting of parameters such as throttle calibration and maximum torque.

To select a menu option type its associated character followed by enter.

? Will display the menu.

d Displays data from the inverter in this format :

 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

00 | 0 0

10 | 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

20 | 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

30 | 0 0 0 0 0 0

40 | 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

50 | 0 0 0 0 0

60 |

70 |

80 | 0 0 0 0 0 0

90 | 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

MTH Valid: Yes Checksum: 0

DC Bus: ----v

MG1 - Speed: 0rpm Position: 0

MG2 - Speed: 0rpm Position: 0

Water Temp: 0.00c

Inductor Temp: 0.00c

Another Temp: 0c

Another Temp: 0c

D (capital or large D) displays VCU configuration data as well as information on the Gearbox status in this format :

<nowiki>***************************************************************************************************</nowiki>

Throttle Channel 1: 109

Throttle Channel 2: 53

Commanded Torque: 0

Selected Direction: DRIVE

Selected Gear: HIGH

Configured Max Drive Torque: 600

Configured Max Reverse Torque: 300

Configured gearbox oil pump speed: 40

Current valve positions:

PB1:ON

PB2:ON

PB3:ON

MG1 Stator temp: 109.69

MG2 Stator temp: 109.69

<nowiki>***************************************************************************************************</nowiki>

Throttle calibration procedure :

Set your throttle, be it a pedal or potentiometer or other, to the position of desired zero throttle.

Type f and press enter. A response like this will display:

Configured min throttle value: 109

Now press or advance the throttle to the desired position of maximum throttle.

Type g and press enter. A response like this will display:

Configured max throttle value: 633

The throttle calibration is now complete.

Next we want to set the maximum allowed drive and reverse torque values. The GS450H inverter will accept a value of between 0 and 3500 for torque.

for initial bench and vehicle testing it is advisable to limit these to low values. In this example we will set drive torque to 500 and reverse torque to 300.

First, drive torque:

Type i500 followed by enter. A response like this will display:

Configured drive torque: 500

Now reverse torque:

Type q250 followed by enter. A response like this will display:

Configured reverse torque: 250

Torque calibration is now complete.

At this point it is advised to store the now configured values to EEPROM (non volatile memory) by typing z followed by enter. A response like this will display:

Parameters stored to EEPROM

An option is provided to set the speed in % (0 to 100%) for the electric gearbox oil pump. In this example we set the speed to 50% :

Type v50 followed by enter. A response like this will display:

Configured gearbox oil pump speed: 50

I have found in testing on the E65 that 50% is a good value for keeping oil pressure up , providing cooling etc. without running the pump too hard. Your millage may vary.

An option is provided to shift between LOW and HIGH gear in the GS450H gearbox. Shifts are inhibited at MG1 or MG2 speeds above 100rpm for safety at this time.

To select LOW gear type a and press enter. A response like this will display:

LOW Gear Selected

To select HIGH gear type s and press enter. A response like this will display:

HIGH Gear Selected

It is advised to leave HIGH gear selected always at this time until further testing and development has been completed.

Finally, store all parameters to EEPROM once more by typing z and press enter. A response like this will display:

Parameters stored to EEPROM

Selecting Direction.

The firmware supports the use of the IN1 and IN2 pins of the V2 VCU as direction control inputs. Operation is as follows :

If both inputs are unconnected, NEUTRAL is selected. In neutral , no torque commands are transmitted to the inverter regardless of throttle application.

If IN1is connected to +12v , DRIVE is selected. In drive both MG1 and MG2 provide torque in a forward direction to the gearbox output shaft.

If IN2 is connected to +12v , REVERSE is selected. In reverse only MG2 provides torque in a reverse direction to the gearbox output shaft.

Currently this "simple" firmware does not support contactor control. This may be provided in a later version.

====Wi-Fi Display====
A Wi-Fi web browser based display is provided in order to easily visualise data from the inverter and gearbox.

Once powered, the Wi-Fi module will create an open access point with an SSID like ESP-XXXX where XXXX will be a series of letters and numbers.

Connect to this access point with any Wi-Fi enabled device (e.g. laptop, tablet, phone etc.).

Some modern devices will try to access the internet, not find it, and pop up a warning. Dismiss this and open a web browser.

Type 192.168.4.1 into the address bar and press enter. Again, some modern devices and browsers will complain that it is not a secure connection etc. Just dismiss the warning and proceed.

After a few seconds the web gauge display will appear.

Note that the voltage display is derived from the voltage reported by the inverter and both current (amps) and power (kw) gauges are inoperative as of this release.

You may wish to change the SSID and add a passphrase to the access point. To do this goto : 192.168.4.1/admin

A simple set of dialog boxes will allow the SSID, passphrase and background colour of the gauge display to be set.

In newer versions (October 2020 onwards) of the VCU Board, the default SSID and Password will be `gs450h_vcu` and `inverter123` respectively.

====Development History====
V1 - This board was sold tested but also as a bare logic board requiring purchase of your own components and SMD placement and soldering skills. https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-webshop/toyota-bare-boards/gs450h-bare-pcb (No longer available).

V2 - A new board source was found to be both high quality and low cost. The boards were redesigned around the inventory of parts available from this supplier. In particular the high cost of populated and soldered boards (10x the price) from the source used to make the v1 boards is so significantly lower on the v2 that there are likely no savings by building and soldering the board yourself. Software is still in development.
====Vendors====
'''EVBMW:''' <ref name=":1" />
'''NOTE:''' There are currently no vendors who offer support on any aspects of the GS450h VCU.
====Support====
Community support is available on the [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=396 Lexus GS450H VCU Support Thread]

|}

[[Category:OEM]]
[[Category:Toyota]]
[[Category:Inverter]]

Lexus GS450h Drivetrain

2022-12-14T00:34:22Z

Mark: /* Wiring and control */ Added wikipedia link to PWM and cleaned up oil pump controller control section a bit. More needed there.

== Inverter ==
[[File:Inverter connector.png|thumb|GS450h inverter external connector|187x187px]]

The Lexus GS450h is a hybrid vehicle. Their inverters are suitable and attractive for DIY EVs because of:
* Good availability and price - an inverter and "transmission" can generally be purchased for less than £/€1000.
* Durability. Toyota engineers appear to have made the inverters foolproof, many inputs and outputs gracefully handle fault conditions.

* Respectable performance. Rated for a combined 250kW output.
* Ease of repurposing. Emulating the original ECU seems reasonably feasible. The transmission is a similar size and layout to many RWD transmissions.
The Lexus GS450h (2006-2012 model years) has a variety of useful components inside the inverter package:

* Two high power inverters, for the 2 motors MG1 capable of handling X(?) amps, and MG2 capable of handling Y(?) amps.
* A boost module to boost the 288v battery pack up to 650v as used in the Lexus (Note that voltages this high are not required for EV conversions).

For technical analysis of this unit, see pages 14-47 of this document: <ref name=":0">https://www.osti.gov/servlets/purl/928684</ref>

If you combine a LHD transmission with a RHD inverter (or vice versa) you might end up with a motor that is juddering, not spinning. IN this case you need to swap any two phase cables of both MG1 and MG2.

The inverter is capable of running at full speeds on pack voltages from approx. 280V upwards. The maximum allowable input voltage is 650V, so far, many have found that "standard" EV voltages of 300V-360V to be well suited.

'''Note that even though the inverter maximum voltage rating is 650V, a 650V battery pack is not required to run this unit. It is capable of excellent performance at lower voltages, such as the typical 300V-360V found in most EVs. However, there is the opportunity to use larger packs with this unit if required in your application.'''

Should a higher voltage pack be chosen in your application for any reason, the buck/boost converter can be used to power auxiliary equipment at its native voltage.

Weight: 40 lbs

Dimensions: 14" x 9-1/2" x 8-1/2"

=== Buck/Boost Converter ===
A buck/boost converter lives within the inverter housing, originally this is used to step up the 288V battery pack in the GS450h to the 650V for use in the inverter in the GS. (Note that this does not mean the inverter requires 650V to run, it is simply a maximum rating) For those using a 600+V battery pack, this converter can be used to step the voltage down to a more reasonable level to interface with chargers, DCDC converters, heaters, AC compressors, and other components which can be found in "regular" EV's (Tesla, LEAF, Volt, etc.).

This unit is rated at 30kW, making it unsuitable for traction power, but good for auxiliary devices.

Details on how to control the converter are here: https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=538

For technical analysis of this unit, see pages 14-47 of this document: <ref name=":0" />

== Transmission ==
[[File:Inverter.png|thumb|213x213px|GS450h inverter and transmission pinout]]
For technical analysis of this transmission, see pages 46 and onward of this document:<ref>https://www.osti.gov/servlets/purl/947393 </ref>

The transmission contains two "Motor-Generator" units. MG1 sits at the front of the transmission, and interfaces with the internal combustion engine through a planetary gear set. For this reason, to obtain torque from MG1, the input shaft of the transmission must be locked in place. This is usually done using a splined coupler, which is then welded onto the transmission front mount.

The input shaft on the transmission has 21 splines, with a 28mm major diameter. It is believed that there are several Toyota clutches which will have this in their centre. The original GS450h flywheel and coupler also contains the appropriate splined centre, of course.

The fluid fill port is the banjo bolt for the upper transmission cooler hose. The specified fluid is "Toyota WS" ATF.

It is a good idea to replace the two bearings in the electric oil pump before fitting a used transmission. There is a guide here<ref>http://carlthomas66.blogspot.com/2016/03/lexus-gs450h-transmission-oil-pump.html (Backup: [https://web.archive.org/web/20200209212622/http://carlthomas66.blogspot.com/2016/03/lexus-gs450h-transmission-oil-pump.html Web Archive])</ref>. Bearing part numbers are 61900-2Z and 608-2Z, you will need one of each.

[[File:Shift position.png|thumb|154x154px|GS450h shift position sensor]]
The shift position lever on the right-hand side of the transmission engages the parking pawl when in the "all-the-way-back" position. All other positions disengage this pawl. The R, N, D, M positions only affect the output of the shift position sensor.

Note the following when purchasing the transmission:
* It is recommended to purchase one which has the electric oil pump fitted - these are a costly item as the bearings in them often fail, in some cases they cost more than the transmission. More on this in the Oil Pump section below.
* It is recommended to purchase a transmission which includes the wiring harness, or at least off-cuts of the connectors. Some connectors may be unavailable for purchase. There is a thread [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=271 here] which covers the connectors on this transmission.

=== Dimensions ===

* Overall height (oil pan to top of bellhousing) is 39cm. Bell housing is full height, i.e. 39cm diameter, when the transmission is sitting on its oil pan (as it is on my bench), the bellhousing still just about touches the bench.
* Widest point is 40cm, includes a bump for a starter motor which I don't believe the GS450h even has. Likely leftover to mate with the 2GR engine.
* Overall length including tailshaft, output flange, and pilot shaft, is 82cm.
* Transmission is tapered quite heavily, the width and height is closer to 25cm after the bellhousing, but hard to gauge due to various outcropping parts (motor cables, oil pump, PRNDL selector, etc.)
* Weight is 128kg. Unknown if this is dry or filled. Likely partially filled. Unknown if this includes oil pump and cables.
* The input shaft pokes out 29mm from the general highest point of the back of the bell housing? (e.g. set a 20cm ruler there and measure from it)
* The taper at the tip of the shaft before the splines appear fully is 6mm long. (i.e. the length of the tip portion without proper splines)
* The output flange bolt pattern is 52.5mm radius (about 91mm from hole to hole). It does not seem to have a machined flange surface, only the 22.5mm diameter ~3.2mm deep recesses around the bolt holes are machined. Pilot shaft diameter is 16mm. Internally the flange has 26 quite rectangular splines. (not 27 or so like Toyota's more common off-road applications).

=== Oil Pump ===

==== Overview and location ====
[[File:GS450h oil pump check.jpg|thumb|reference image showing the pump fitted (green), and not fitted red)]]
As built, the GS450h supplies oil pressure to the gearbox using either the ICE engine or an electrically-driven external pump. With the input shaft locked in EV applications, the external pump is the only option available. As mentioned previously, this is a vital part of the setup and it's strongly recommended to buy a transmission that still has it fitted. To help with this, here is a reference photo of what to look for.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
==== Wiring and control ====
[[File:GS450h oil pump controller.jpg|thumb|GS450h oil pump controller|alt=|150x150px]]The external pump also requires a controller, which uses a [[wikipedia:Pulse-width_modulation|PWM]] control scheme. Although this is rarely included with the transmission, it's quite affordably and widely available (Toyota part number: G1167-30020)

===== Pinouts, schematics and notes =====
[[File:Connector_-_A55_Oil_Pump_Motor_Controller_90980–12483.png|alt=|right|269x269px]]
[[File:Oilpump.png|alt=|right|300x300px]]
* The metal case is the ground.
* Black (pin 6) is PWM in from your controller.
* Brown (pin 7) is PWM feedback from the oil pump. It is not required and can be left disconnected.
* The fat blue wire (pin 5) is 12V power. The oil pump uses around 50A Max. So plan for that. Add your own relay to stop it draining your battery while the car is off.
* The PWM for this is weird, it's not just 0-100. IIRC it is 0% at both ends, and rises to 100% near the middle, then back down again. This is just based on the sound of the pump with no load, so needs more testing to find the real values.

[[File:Oil_Pump.png|alt=|386x386px]]

[[File:Gearbox_oil_pump_PWM.jpg|alt=|frameless]]

====Hardware====
As per ggeter:
"For those, like me, who didn't get the pump with the transmission unit, here are the part numbers for bolts and (what appears to be a metal) gasket."

Bolts (4) 90080-10197 $2.76 ea.

Gasket (1) 35142-30010 $14

The oil pump also contains 3 black rubber O-rings:

1 x 55mm internal diameter, 2.5mm cross section (for the black outer cover)

2 x 50mm internal diameter, 2.5mm cross section (between each 'layer' of the pump housing).

The oil pump motor cover is held onto the pump housing by 4 M5 x 16mm flanged screws.

== Wiring Harness Connectors ==
Here are a list of connectors required for the GS450h transmission & inverter if you need/wish to build the harness for your build. (It is a good idea to find components with at least the connectors to build on. As some of the connectors are impossible to obtain)

=== Inverter Connectors ===

==== OEM ====
{| class="wikitable"
!Connector
!Part No.
!Location
|-
|Inverter interface connector (A62)
|Toyota
90980–12630
|Black connector on the side of the inverter. This connector is not sold anywhere to our knowledge.
|}

==== Alternatives ====
A good alternative to this otherwise difficult to obtain connector is to replace the receptacle/header with the following parts from Molex:

===== Molex MX123 series =====
{| class="wikitable"
!Image
!Part No.
!Item
!Quantity
|-
|[[File:036638-0002.jpg|center|frameless|80x80px]]
|036638-0002
|CMC header connector 48pin
|1
|-
|[[File:064320-1311.jpg|center|frameless|80x80px]]
|064320-1311
|CMC receptacle 48pin
|1
|-
|[[File:064320-1301.jpg|center|frameless|80x80px]]
|064320-1301
|CMC wire cap
|1
|-
|[[File:064323-1039.jpg|center|frameless|80x80px]]
|064323-1039
|CP terminal
|4
|-
|[[File:064323-1029.jpg|center|frameless|80x80px]]
|064322-1039
|CP terminal
|32
|-
|[[File:064325-1010.jpg|center|frameless|80x80px]]
|064325-1010
|CMC plug
|8
|-
|[[File:064325-1023.jpg|center|frameless|80x80px]]
|064325-1023
|CMC plug
|4
|}

===== Assembly Instructions =====
Instructions on how to assemble the MX123 connector can be found here <ref>https://www.molex.com/mx_upload/family/MX123UserManual.pdf (Backup: [https://web.archive.org/web/20220129215727/https://www.molex.com/mx_upload/family/MX123UserManual.pdf Web Archive])</ref>.

===== Pinout =====
Use the following pinout to remap the internal connections from the Toyota plug to the Molex plug:
[[File:Inverter connections.png|none|thumb|GS450h Inverter/converter internal connections]]

=== Transmission Connectors ===
[[File:Image.png|none|thumb|GS450 transmission main connection locations]]
{| class="wikitable"
!Connector
!Part No.
!Location
!
|-
|ECT Solenoid (E83)
|Sumitomo 6189-1092
|Located on the left hand side of the transmission above the oil pan.
|[[File:Sumitomo 6189-1092.jpg|center|frameless|100x100px]]
|-
|Shift Lever Position Sensor (E80)
|Sumitomo 90980-12362
|Located on the right side of the transmission next to the shift lever inhibitor switch.
|[[File:Sumitomo 90980-12362.png|center|frameless|100x100px]]
|-
|MG1 & MG2 Resolver(s) (E81 & E82)
|Sumitomo 6189-1240
|Two connectors located on the left side of the transmission by the bell housing.
|[[File:Sumitomo 6189-1240.jpg|center|frameless|100x100px]]
|}

=== Oil Pump & Oil Pump Motor Controller ===
{| class="wikitable"
!Connector
!Part No.
!Location
|-
|Oil Pump Temperature Sensor
|Sumitomo 6189-0175
|The connector is the small 2-pin connector in the middle of the harness between the oil pump and controller
|-
|HVECU -> Oil Pump Controller (A52)
|Toyota 90980-12483
|Single large (7-way) connector on the side of the oil pump controller
|}

==Control Schemes==

===ZombieVerter VCU===
As of 2022, the preferred solution (and the only one under active development) is the [[ZombieVerter VCU]]

===Lexus GS450h VCU (deprecated)===
'''''UPDATE:''' the dedicated Lexus GS450h VCU has been superseded/replaced by the [[ZombieVerter VCU]]. This section is kept active solely as legacy documentation and differs in important ways from the ZombieVerter implementation.''

The Lexus GS450h VCU is an open source project to repurpose 2006-2012 Lexus GS450h inverters for DIY EV use. It consists of a circuit board and programming that communicates with the original logic board in the inverter and allows independent control of it without requiring a GS450h ECU.

An open-source VCU, designed by Damien Maguire, can be purchased as a partially populated board on his website: <ref name=":1">https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-webshop/vcu-boards/gs450h-vcu (Backup: [https://web.archive.org/web/20221016171604/https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-webshop/vcu-boards/gs450h-vcu Web Archive])</ref>[[File:Transmission.png|thumb|147x147px|GS450h transmission and oil pump temperature sensor]]
The VCU is an external unit that will not fit within the GS450h inverter housing. It does not replace the GS450h inverter control board, instead it interfaces with it over USART.

A full schematic for the system can be found at [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=12105#p12105 this link]

Note that in addition to the VCU, inverter and transmission, a specific CAN bus connected shunt (ISA shunt) is required: [[Isabellenhütte Heusler]]

For those who have purchased the fully built board, the mating connectors for the VCU are Molex parts:
*33472-2002 (Left side, grey in colour)

*33472-2001 (Right side, black in colour)
*33012-2002 (Crimp terminals)
*5810130065 (Enclosure)
For partially populated board, these additional parts are required:
*5810140011 (Header, 40 Pos.)
*75867-101LF (CONN1, Header for Wi-Fi module)
*5787834-1 (CONN2, USB 2.0 receptacle)
*TR10S05 (IC10, 5V DC/DC converter)
These parts are available from many electronics distributors.

====VCU Firmware====
Firmware to run on the VCU is available on Github : https://github.com/damienmaguire/Lexus-GS450H-Inverter-Controller

This guide relates to V3.01 available here on Github : https://github.com/damienmaguire/Lexus-GS450H-Inverter-Controller/blob/master/Software/gs450h_v3_user.ino

A video tutorial to accompany this guide and firmware is available here :https://vimeo.com/501777258

In order to aid those not familiar with programming, a new firmware with a basic serial interface is now available. This will be the default loaded onto all VCU boards sold on the EVBMW webshop as of 18/01/21.

This firmware is intended as a stop gap measure before a new Openinverter based version with a web based interface becomes available. (expect mid 2021).

====Instructions for use====
Connect a USB cable between the VCU and a PC.

Using a serial terminal program of your choice, connect at 115200,8,N,1.

Once connected, type ? and press enter. The following menu should then display :

<nowiki>=========== EVBMW GS450H VCU Version 3.01 ==============</nowiki>

<nowiki>************</nowiki> List of Available Commands ************

? - Print this menu

d - Print received data from inverter

D - Print configuration data

f - Calibrate minimum throttle.

g - Calibrate maximum throttle.

i - Set max drive torque (0-3500) e.g. typing i200 followed by enter sets max drive torque to 200

q - Set max reverse torque (0-3500) e.g. typing q200 followed by enter sets max reverse torque to 200

v - Set gearbox oil pump speed (0-100%) e.g. typing v50 followed by enter sets oil pump to 50% speed

a - Select LOW gear.

s - Select HIGH gear.

z - Save configuration data to EEPROM memory

<nowiki>**************************************************************</nowiki>

The menu system allows for the display of data from both the VCU, GS450H Inverter and gearbox as well as setting of parameters such as throttle calibration and maximum torque.

To select a menu option type its associated character followed by enter.

? Will display the menu.

d Displays data from the inverter in this format :

 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

00 | 0 0

10 | 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

20 | 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

30 | 0 0 0 0 0 0

40 | 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

50 | 0 0 0 0 0

60 |

70 |

80 | 0 0 0 0 0 0

90 | 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

MTH Valid: Yes Checksum: 0

DC Bus: ----v

MG1 - Speed: 0rpm Position: 0

MG2 - Speed: 0rpm Position: 0

Water Temp: 0.00c

Inductor Temp: 0.00c

Another Temp: 0c

Another Temp: 0c

D (capital or large D) displays VCU configuration data as well as information on the Gearbox status in this format :

<nowiki>***************************************************************************************************</nowiki>

Throttle Channel 1: 109

Throttle Channel 2: 53

Commanded Torque: 0

Selected Direction: DRIVE

Selected Gear: HIGH

Configured Max Drive Torque: 600

Configured Max Reverse Torque: 300

Configured gearbox oil pump speed: 40

Current valve positions:

PB1:ON

PB2:ON

PB3:ON

MG1 Stator temp: 109.69

MG2 Stator temp: 109.69

<nowiki>***************************************************************************************************</nowiki>

Throttle calibration procedure :

Set your throttle, be it a pedal or potentiometer or other, to the position of desired zero throttle.

Type f and press enter. A response like this will display:

Configured min throttle value: 109

Now press or advance the throttle to the desired position of maximum throttle.

Type g and press enter. A response like this will display:

Configured max throttle value: 633

The throttle calibration is now complete.

Next we want to set the maximum allowed drive and reverse torque values. The GS450H inverter will accept a value of between 0 and 3500 for torque.

for initial bench and vehicle testing it is advisable to limit these to low values. In this example we will set drive torque to 500 and reverse torque to 300.

First, drive torque:

Type i500 followed by enter. A response like this will display:

Configured drive torque: 500

Now reverse torque:

Type q250 followed by enter. A response like this will display:

Configured reverse torque: 250

Torque calibration is now complete.

At this point it is advised to store the now configured values to EEPROM (non volatile memory) by typing z followed by enter. A response like this will display:

Parameters stored to EEPROM

An option is provided to set the speed in % (0 to 100%) for the electric gearbox oil pump. In this example we set the speed to 50% :

Type v50 followed by enter. A response like this will display:

Configured gearbox oil pump speed: 50

I have found in testing on the E65 that 50% is a good value for keeping oil pressure up , providing cooling etc. without running the pump too hard. Your millage may vary.

An option is provided to shift between LOW and HIGH gear in the GS450H gearbox. Shifts are inhibited at MG1 or MG2 speeds above 100rpm for safety at this time.

To select LOW gear type a and press enter. A response like this will display:

LOW Gear Selected

To select HIGH gear type s and press enter. A response like this will display:

HIGH Gear Selected

It is advised to leave HIGH gear selected always at this time until further testing and development has been completed.

Finally, store all parameters to EEPROM once more by typing z and press enter. A response like this will display:

Parameters stored to EEPROM

Selecting Direction.

The firmware supports the use of the IN1 and IN2 pins of the V2 VCU as direction control inputs. Operation is as follows :

If both inputs are unconnected, NEUTRAL is selected. In neutral , no torque commands are transmitted to the inverter regardless of throttle application.

If IN1is connected to +12v , DRIVE is selected. In drive both MG1 and MG2 provide torque in a forward direction to the gearbox output shaft.

If IN2 is connected to +12v , REVERSE is selected. In reverse only MG2 provides torque in a reverse direction to the gearbox output shaft.

Currently this "simple" firmware does not support contactor control. This may be provided in a later version.

====Wi-Fi Display====
A Wi-Fi web browser based display is provided in order to easily visualise data from the inverter and gearbox.

Once powered, the Wi-Fi module will create an open access point with an SSID like ESP-XXXX where XXXX will be a series of letters and numbers.

Connect to this access point with any Wi-Fi enabled device (e.g. laptop, tablet, phone etc.).

Some modern devices will try to access the internet, not find it, and pop up a warning. Dismiss this and open a web browser.

Type 192.168.4.1 into the address bar and press enter. Again, some modern devices and browsers will complain that it is not a secure connection etc. Just dismiss the warning and proceed.

After a few seconds the web gauge display will appear.

Note that the voltage display is derived from the voltage reported by the inverter and both current (amps) and power (kw) gauges are inoperative as of this release.

You may wish to change the SSID and add a passphrase to the access point. To do this goto : 192.168.4.1/admin

A simple set of dialog boxes will allow the SSID, passphrase and background colour of the gauge display to be set.

In newer versions (October 2020 onwards) of the VCU Board, the default SSID and Password will be `gs450h_vcu` and `inverter123` respectively.

====Development History====
V1 - This board was sold tested but also as a bare logic board requiring purchase of your own components and SMD placement and soldering skills. https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-webshop/toyota-bare-boards/gs450h-bare-pcb (No longer available).

V2 - A new board source was found to be both high quality and low cost. The boards were redesigned around the inventory of parts available from this supplier. In particular the high cost of populated and soldered boards (10x the price) from the source used to make the v1 boards is so significantly lower on the v2 that there are likely no savings by building and soldering the board yourself. Software is still in development.
====Vendors====
'''EVBMW:''' <ref name=":1" />
'''NOTE:''' There are currently no vendors who offer support on any aspects of the GS450h VCU.
====Support====
Community support is available on the [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=396 Lexus GS450H VCU Support Thread]

[[Category:OEM]]
[[Category:Toyota]]
[[Category:Inverter]]

Nissan leaf

2022-12-14T00:28:15Z

Mark: Linking PWM to the wikipedia page for pulse-width modulation

[[File:0000628 blogimages-1.jpg|thumb]]
This unit takes the 280-400VDC HV battery pack input and converts it to 13-15VDC for the 12V AUX battery charging. It is very stable at 74 Amps 13.6V output. Easily adjustable voltage output with a simple 10V [[wikipedia:Pulse-width_modulation|PWM]] signal running at about 9 HZ on pin 1 and pin 3 and 11 go to +12V to enable.

When i googled around i noticed this particular DCDC is documented on various sites and videos, however not with schematics or wiring diagrams…
I used some photos and wiring from here: http://myimiev.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4533
Starting with connection of the 12v positive terminal to battery
And then GND the case back to battery negative terminal
I connected HV directly to DCDC input wires.
[[File:Img 20210328 195231.jpg|alt=|thumb|wiring]]
[[File:0000627 blogimages-2.jpg|thumb]]
Then referring to plugs F11 & F12
Terminal 3 and 11 would need +12v for Battery power supply
Pin 1 needs a PWM signal 9Hz 50% duty to it

Well it was all good and well with the wiring obtained online, however i noticed that DCDC starts as soon as i provide 12V to pins 3 and 11 of connector and provides 14V power to charge 12V battery.

When i added 9Hz PWM to pin 1 of connector F11 i got following result:
PWM voltage
80% 13,10V
70% 13,40V
60% 13,70V
50% 14,00V
40% 14,30V
30% 14,70V
20% 15,00V

If i remove PWM from pin 1 i again get 14V on DCDC output.

Also i tested the output with 14V 85A load (9x H4 light bulbs and 60Ah Pb battery) and DCDC provided true and steady 14V power.

Chevrolet Volt 2 DC/DC Converter

2022-12-14T00:27:04Z

Mark: Linking PWM to the wikipedia page for pulse-width modulation

[[File:Gm-dcdc-hvconn.png|thumb]]
[[File:ATSSi.jpg|alt=|thumb]]
[[File:Img 0014.jpg|thumb]]

Chevy Volt Gen2 DCDC P/N 24284603. It is a small and compact liquid cooled unit.

This unit does not work with CAN bus. It accepts a [[wikipedia:Pulse-width_modulation|PWM]] signal which gives it correct key to start and provide desired voltage and constant current.

When i tried to provide good PWM signal there was something wrong. I couldnt get DCDC to start. I tried various PWM signals and duty.

I tried to start DCDC and when i connected 360Vdc i got 70% PWM on pin 3. This is signal HV is connected, but LV is not started. So far is good. Then i applied 12V 100Hz 75% PWM to pin 1 and …nothing!

No change in pin 3 and no 14V source. I tried 75% from 100Hz to 1000kHz… I figured pin 1 has some pulldown and when i gave it 12V via transistor i got 5V on the pin.

I connected 370Vdc to main connector. Then i verify LV connector pin3 is at 70% PWM. Then i use my signal generator and connect it to IRF510 Mosfet and i use 330R pullup to signal 75% PWM on Pin1.

I had 12V battery connected directly to output link behind the casing and feed 110Hz 50% duty PWM and DCDC came alive!

DCDC works with 110Hz up to 140Hz PWM.

Also i noticed that if i would remove the signal at that point DCDC would keep providing power regardless the signal. Later i would reduce duty to 40% and device would shutoff. The funny thing is if i would then remove this 40% duty signal DCDC would come online and provide power at 13.6V as failsafe.

PWM duty at 110Hz. Those values are under light load with 12V battery attached.

70% ……..14.2V

77% ……..14V

63% ……..13.8V

40% …….. OFF.

I also found out signal works down to 45% duty where DCDC actually stops.

I connected 1kW load of 9 H4 light bulbs directly to the output. I could measure 14V at 74A = 1kW! Supposedly it should provide 2.4kW power when liquid cooled.

I tried to run DCDC with 104S battery at 407Vdc and it worked. DCDC comfortably made 14.2Vdc under 1kW load.

Connectors:

HV connector from Mouser Aptiv P/N 33107347

I also got pins P/N 15446674

Only connector is not enough. You need to get the end cap P/N 13824779 with rubber seal P/N 15513451.

Also i got LV connector JST P/N ATSSPB-C0805H-1AK

I also got pins P/N SAIT-A03T-M064

[[Category:OEM]]
[[Category:Chevrolet]]
[[Category:Opel]]
[[Category:DC/DC]]

Toyota/Lexus GS300h CVT

2022-12-08T01:26:45Z

Mark: Linkified GS450h CVT to the Lexus GS450h Drivetrain page

'''NOTE : This motor is as of yet untested in a real world application.'''

Forum board: <ref>https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=949</ref><ref>https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=949#p15109</ref>

General overview :<ref>https://slideplayer.com/slide/14432904/ (Backup: [https://web.archive.org/web/20210130222812/https://slideplayer.com/slide/14432904/ Web Archive])</ref>

[[File:Gs300h-cvt.jpg|thumb]]

== Description ==
The L210 is a continuously variable transmission (CVT) which can be found in the Lexus gs300h. It is very similar in design to the [[Lexus GS450h Drivetrain|GS450h CVT]]. It contains two motor-generators - MG1 and MG2. When used as originally intended, MG1 is spun by the ICE, via a planetary gear system, and acts primarily as a generator. MG1 also acts as a starter motor for the ICE. MG2 is connected to the output shaft via a second planetary gear system to provide traction directly to the rear wheels.

The ratio between MG1 and the output shaft is 2.6:1. The ratio between MG2 and the output shaft is 3.333:1.

The official power output of the CVT is 105kW and 300Nm of torque<ref>https://lexus.pressroom.com.au/press_kit_detail.asp?kitID=336&clientID=3&navSectionID=6 (Backup: [https://web.archive.org/web/20200319090621/https://lexus.pressroom.com.au/press_kit_detail.asp?kitID=336&clientID=3&navSectionID=6 Web Archive])</ref>, but this has yet to be tested.

For use in a pure EV application, the ICE input shaft can be locked stationary with a plate or bar. This allows traction to be provided by both MG1 and MG2.

=== Part Numbers ===
Part numbers include 30920-30030. The CVT can be found in the Lexus GS300h, Lexus IS300h, and Toyota Crown Hybrid(G9200-30131). The matching inverter is part number G9200-30132, which is a Gen 3 inverter.

=== Dimensions ===
Bellhousing diameter =400 mm ,

Length bellhousing face to drive flange face 720mm

Diameter main body 330mm front to 250 rear

Tailshaft length 210mm

Weight 90kg

== Oil pump ==
The L110 CVT, found in the gs450h, has two oil pumps. An internal mechanical pump and an external 12V electric pump. The internal mechanical oil pump is driven by the ICE. Locking the ICE input shaft to allow MG1 to provide traction means that the internal oil pump no longer functions. This makes the external 12V electric oil pump essential when using the CVT in a pure EV application.

One key difference between the L210 (gs300h) and the L110 (gs450h) is that the L210 only has an internal oil pump. However, the internal oil pump is driven by both the ICE and/or the rotation of MG2. So, even when you lock the ICE input shaft to allow MG1 to provide traction, MG2 will still drive the oil pump whenever the car moves. Since there are no gears/speeds in this CVT (and hence no clutch packs, etc.), the oil is only required for cooling and lubricating the bearings.

== Connections ==
[[File:9200-30131-inverter side.png|thumb]]

=== Inverter ===
The connector for this inverter is available from Toyota dealers. The part numbers you need are:

* Plug: 90980-129922<ref>Forum Source: https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=43421#p43421</ref> (approximately 20 euros)
* Seals to plug unused connections: 90980-09871
* Terminal 1: 82998-24250
* Terminal 2: 82998-12790
* Terminal 3: 82998-24420<ref>Forum Reference: https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=43428#p43428</ref>
* Alternative Source<ref>Forum Reference: https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=44467#p44467</ref> for the Connectors on Aliexpress: <ref>https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000661144498.html (Backup: [https://web.archive.org/web/20221207221212/https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255800474829746.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US Web Archive])</ref> and <ref>https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002101704091.html (Backup: [https://web.archive.org/web/20221207221606/https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256801915389339.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US Web Archive])</ref>

Inverter/trans pair can be controlled by OI Zombieverter VCU Here [[ZombieVerter VCU]]

=== Left hand side ===
[[File:Gs300h-cvt-lhs-annotated-2.jpg|alt=|thumb|Left hand side connections]]
# MG1 3-phase power connection
# MG1 resolver (and temperature) port
# MG2 resolver (and temperature) port
=== Right hand side ===
[[File:Gs300h-cvt-rhs-annotated-2.jpg|alt=|thumb|Right hand side connections]]
# Input/output from/to oil cooler radiator
# Mechanical shifter and shift sensor port
# Ground strap
# MG2 3-phase power connection

=== Resolvers ===
Sumitomo 6189-1240 8-WAY

Motor side connection

1 2 3 4

White Red Yellow White ( colours inside motor )

TMP1 CS SN RF

TMP2 CSG SNG RFG

White Black Blue Green ( colours inside motor )

5 6 7 8

For connections to inverter, MG1 connections have prefix G... MG2 have prefix M...

But check for yourself as per Damien's tuning video

=== Shift sensor ===
[[File:GS300hShiftsensor.png|thumb]]
part number: 89451-30010

Connector: SUMITOMO 90980-12362

Position 1 being the sprung return and 5 being park

Pin 3 is common, you can see there is a direct connection to

a pin for each position and a secondary connection to either 2,5,9

this could be used as an error check<ref>Forum Source: https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=949&start=125</ref>

::;
:;

=== Output flange ===
Bolt pattern: About 100mm from hole to hole (~58mm radius) (compared to GS450H's 91mm (or 52.5mm radius)).

=== ICE input shaft coupling ===
23mm shaft diameter , 21 spline

OEM numbers : Daihatsu 31250-14090; Lexus 31250-14010; Toyota 31250-12040;

Confirmed that Blueprint ADT33102, ADT33127 <ref>Forum Source: https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=43211#p43211</ref> clutch plate or equivalent is a good fit.

== References ==
<references />

[[Category:OEM]] [[Category:Toyota]] [[Category:Motor]]

G9200-30132

2022-12-01T13:19:17Z

Mark: Added some details about what cars it came in and what transaxle it compliments

The G9200-30132 inverter was available on the [[Toyota/Lexus GS300h CVT|Lexus IS300h, Lexus GS300h, Toyota Crown Hybrid]] from year 2013-2019. This inverter matches up with [[Motors|L210 transaxle]]. The connector for this inverter is available from Toyota dealers. The part numbers you need are:

* Plug: 90980-12992 (approximately 20 euros)
* Seals to plug unused connections: 90980-09871
* Terminal 1: 82998-24250
* Terminal 2: 82998-12790
* Terminal 3: 82998-24420
[[Category:OEM]]
[[Category:Toyota]]
[[Category:Inverter]]

G9200-30132

2022-12-01T13:00:06Z

Mark: Added OEM, Toyota, and Inverter categories

The connector for this inverter is available from Toyota dealers. The part numbers you need are:

* Plug: 90980-12992 (approximately 20 euros)
* Seals to plug unused connections: 90980-09871
* Terminal 1: 82998-24250
* Terminal 2: 82998-12790
* Terminal 3: 82998-24420
[[Category:OEM]]
[[Category:Toyota]]
[[Category:Inverter]]

CAN communication

2022-11-29T22:01:00Z

Mark: Linkified endianness to wikipedia for a general definition

The Revision 2 main board supports CAN communication. The CAN bus can be used for configuration and for obtaining values like voltages, input states etc. The CAN messages are configurable and can be adjusted to be compatible with existing equipment.

Since firmware 3.75 throttle and digital inputs can be controlled via CAN.

Be aware that all CAN mapping uses decimal numbers. So COB ID 0x123 must be entered as '''291'''

== Controlling throttle via CAN ==
If you want to send the throttle and regen magnitude commands via CAN rather then via analog inputs you have to set "potmode" to "CAN" (=2). Next you have to map a CAN message to pot and optionally pot2. So say you have a digital throttle that sends values from 0 to 1000 for 0 to 100% travel on CAN-Id 100 in the first two bytes.
* Configure potmin=0 and potmax=1000
* Map CAN message to pot: can rx pot 100 0 16 32
The last parameter, 32, tells the CAN module to apply the internal fixed point scaling.

CAN messages must be received every 500ms, otherwise throttle times out and is set to 0.

== Controlling Digital IO via CAN ==
6 signals, namely cruise, start, brake, forward, backward and bms can be controlled via CAN. The CAN message is ORed to the physical inputs so you can have mixed signals also. Digital CAN IO doesn't need to be explicitely configured, it works as soon as you map a CAN message to "canio". "canio" is bit-encoded:
* Bit 0: cruise
* Bit 1: start
* Bit 2: brake
* Bit 3: forward
* Bit 4: reverse
* Bit 5: bms
So say you have a BMS that transmits an over/under voltage bit on CAN Id 200, 2nd data bit
can rx canio 200 2 1 1024
Note the 1024x gain that shifts the bit into the correct position (5 fraction bits plus 5th data bit). In this case all other IOs remain traditional, only BMS is controlled via CAN. Note that you cannot map multiple CAN messages onto "canio" as they would overwrite each other.

If you have a managed to mangle all 6 bits into one message, say CAN Id 300, first 6 bits the mapping is done like so
can rx canio 300 0 6 32
The same timeout mechanism is used as for throttle control, so after 500ms with no message the CAN-mapped inputs are assumed off. Traditional inputs remain unaffected.

== Setting and reading parameters via SDO ==
The abbreviation SDO is taken from the CANOpen protocol. It assigns a certain meaning to the 8 data bits of a CAN frame.
{| class="wikitable"
!Purpose
!CAN-Id
!Byte 1 (Cmd)
!Bytes 2-3 (Index)
!Byte 4 (Subindex)
!Bytes 5-8 (Data)
|-
|Set Value
|0x601
|0x40
|0x2000
|Value Index
|Value x 32
|-
|Set Value Reply
|0x581
|0x23
|0x2000
|Value Index
|Value x 32
|-
|Get Value
|0x601
|0x22
|0x2000
|Value Index
|don't care
|-
|Get Value Reply
|0x581
|0x43
|0x2000
|Value Index
|Value x 32
|-
|Map Value TX to COB ID yyy
|0x601
|0x40
|0x3yyy
|Value Index
|Byte 5: bit offset, Byte 6: bit length, Bytes 7,8: scaling
|-
|Map Value RX to COB ID yyy
|0x601
|0x40
|0x4yyy
|Value Index
|Byte 5: bit offset, Byte 6: bit length, Bytes 7,8: scaling
|-
|Abort - invalid index
|0x581
|0x80
|Index of request
|Value Index
|Abort Code = 0x06020000
|-
|Abort - value out of range
|0x581
|0x80
|Index of request
|Value Index
|Abort Code = 0x06090030
|-
|Set Param
|0x601
|0x40
|0x2001
|Param Id
|Value x 32
|-
|Set Param Reply
|0x581
|0x23
|0x2001
|Param Id
|Value x 32
|-
|Get Param
|0x601
|0x22
|0x2001
|Param Id
|don't care
|-
|Get Param Reply
|0x581
|0x43
|0x2001
|Param Id
|Value x 32
|}
The value index must be determined by counting the output of the list command. E.g. "boost" at the very top has index 0, potnom has index 77. The indexes can change over firmware versions as new parameters are added somewhere in between.

The Get/Set Param commands use the unique parameter identifier assigned to each savable parameter. These do not vary between firmware versions. Only savable parameters not spot values can be read and written by these commands.

==== Examples ====
<code>0x601 # 0x22 0x00 0x20 0x00 0 0 0 0</code> Get value of "boost"

<code>0x601 # 0x40 0x00 0x20 0x01 0x80 0x0C 0 0</code> Set "fweak" to 100Hz (0xC80=3200 because scaled by 32)

<code>0x601 # 0x40 0xAA 0x31 0x01 0x08 0x10 1 0</code> Map value of fweak to COB ID 0x1AA, starting at bit 8, stretching 16 bits, scaled by 1

<code>0x601 # 0x22 0x10 0x20 0x0D 0 0 0 0</code> Get value of "pwmfrq" on any firmware version or build (0x0D = 13 from the PARAM_ENTRY() for "pwmfrq" in param_prj.h)

== Mapping values to arbitrary CAN messages ==
Values can be mapped into a certain bit range of the 64 payload bits of a CAN message. They can either be read from the message or sent via a message. To do so enter
can tx udc 123 0 16 10
This maps the value of udc to a CAN message with id 123 bits 0..15 (start at bit 0, span over 16 bits) with a gain of 10.
can tx din_forward 123 24 1 1
would map the pin state of the forward input to bit 24 of CAN message with id 123.

If you want to clear all messages, type
can clear
If you want to remove only a specific signal (starting version 4.18.R) type
can del <name>
To save your can map simply type "save".

[https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1468 idcmin, idcmax example]

=== Mapping Values through the web interface ===
Value can also be mapped through the web interface.

[[File:Spot values.png|alt=Spot values|thumb|Spot values]]

* CAN Id
** This is the Can Id assigned to the message.
* Position
** This is where in the 64 bit length of the CAN message the data should start.
* Bits
** How many bits are assigned to send the data.
* Gain
** This applies the internal fixed point scaling.
* Map to CAN
** TX to tell the control board to transmit the data onto the CANBUS
** RX to tell the control board to expect to receive this data from the CANBUS

=== Limits ===
* A maximum of 10 messages can be defined
* Per message a maximum of 8 values can be mapped
* a value can not span across the 32-bit boundary, i.e. it must be fully contained in the first or second 32 bits of the message. E.g. "can tx udc 123 16 32 10" is not allowed
* A value can span maximum 32 bits

== [[wikipedia:Endianness|Endianness]] ==
CAN messages sent to, or received from the inverter are Little-endian.

If you are sending or receiving messages containing multi-byte values then the byte order must be taken into account.

[[Category:CAN]] [[Category:OpenInverter]]

Getting started with CAN bus

2022-11-29T21:49:02Z

Mark: Added collapsible transcript to "What is CAN Logging?" video

A '''Controller Area Network''' ('''CAN bus''') is a robust vehicle bus standard designed to allow microcontrollers and devices to communicate with each other's applications without a host computer. It is a message-based protocol, designed originally for multiplex electrical wiring within automobiles to save on copper, but it can also be used in many other contexts. For each device, the data in a frame is transmitted sequentially but in such a way that if more than one device transmits at the same time, the highest priority device can continue while the others back off. Frames are received by all devices, including by the transmitting device.

for more info and history on can see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAN_bus

This page will help get you started with CAN bus.

Some people will tell you CAN is hard or complicated. They're wrong. The hardware you need isn't expensive and you don't need to be a programming whiz. Even Damien can do it.

<youtube>https://youtu.be/K4HwHQOluSg</youtube>

There are a few routes you can take, depending on what you want to do:

== I want to receive or send simple CAN bus messages... ==
If you already know which CAN bus messages you want to send or receive, one of the cheapest ways to do this is with an [[Getting started with CAN bus and an Arduino Uno|Arduino Uno and a suitable CAN bus shield]].

== I want to analyse CAN bus traffic and possibly do some serious hacking... ==
If you want to analyse CAN bus messages on an existing vehicle, you'll need the help of some software. You can use the free [https://www.savvycan.com SavvyCAN software] together with a [[CAN bus with Arduino Due|suitably configured Arduino Due]] or [[Getting CAN working on a Teensy 3.6|Teensy]]. Alternatively, you can buy a [https://store.evtv.me/products/evtvdue2?_pos=3&_sid=e04f934ae&_ss=r pre-configured Due-based kit from EVTV].

<youtube>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MsrXs-tJKaY</youtube>

{| role="presentation" class="wikitable mw-collapsible mw-collapsed"
| Transcript
|-
|
hello folks welcome to another fun packed episode presented by the gomcat and yours truly so before we get into the detail of today's episode as usual just the health warning it would be extremely boring it will not be of any entertaining value so if you're here for entertainment up there search box funny cat video

00:00:41

It's your friend also uh this video will be available free of any and all advertising on vimeo should you find yourself on old youtube so what are we going to talk about today well today we're going to talk about the topic of can logging i'm going to tell you what can logging is hopefully tell you what it is not because there's quite a bit of

00:01:11

Misinformation out there and also we will show you the basics of how to do it for yourself yes that's right okay gomcat just reminded me so reason for making this particular video is that as some of you will know for the past while i've been working on the bmw i3 lim for the purposes of getting ccs fast charging available to the masses

00:01:49

And the way that that has primarily been done the enabling piece of the puzzle has been through the use of can logs now i have been appealing to two people on various platforms to perform some can bus logging for me and it became apparent that i guess not a lot of people really understood what it was that i was asking them to do so hopefully this video uh

00:02:23

Excuse me will help to fill in the uh blanks so i'm not going to get into what a CAN bus is um if you don't know what that is i'd suggest a quick internet search there's a lot of information out there but i guess a one sentence would be that it is a means for the control units in a modern vehicle so all the

00:02:51

Little computers to exchange data because they need to do that uh for exa example the engine control computer would need to be able to speak to the gearbox controller would be able to need to speak to the abs traction control system and so forth and they do that by means of exchanging data via can so it's a little bit like computer networks where we plug ethernet cables

00:03:24

Into our computer so that they can exchange data with other computers either locally or on the internet and can bus is a way for all the little control boxes in your vehicle to exchange data so what is a can bus log a simple analogy for a can bus log is a bit like the old days of tapping a landline phone so let's say that we had four people on a conference call so we would come

00:04:05

Along connect to the phone line without any of the four people knowing that we were there and record their conversation we would then have a log or a recording of the information that those four people exchanged during the course of that conversation that would then allow us to analyze how the words in this case but in the case of can how the data flowed between those four

00:04:42

People that we analogize to four control units in a car and it lets us then speak the same not only the same language but speak the same words in the same way as they were spoken during the original conversation so that we can take a module away from its parent vehicle put it in a different vehicle or in a different application

00:05:14

And basically fool it into thinking that it is still in its parent vehicle and get it to work and perform its originally intended tasks for us so in the case of the lim i have another one of these in my e46 touring that is fairly convinced at the minute that it's still in a nice shiny 2017 i3 but like all things uh nothing is ever as easy as

00:05:47

It sounds and it's learning a language and learning a dialect we make a lot of mistakes and our little control units can be very strict about any of those mistakes and they can say no i don't like what you've just said to me or the speed at which you've just said it or the order in which you have spoken the words

00:06:12

And i'm gonna go away now and cry so the logs are the first step interpreting the logs is the second step and then forming our own communications that we can use with the control units are the final step so the more logs that we have the richer the data set is and the easier it is to learn the language and see the nuances and understand

00:06:48

Better how to talk the language that our control boxes are expecting so that's what can logging is and why we need to do it it is the lifeblood of modern uh vehicle reverse engineering and repurposing of modules from basically crashed or end of cars finally the gomcat is going to explain to us what can logging is not and that's a

00:07:25

Very important area over to you gomcat the camera's on seriously okay i guess i'll be explaining to you today folks what can logging is not so quite simply can logging is not a way for me to steal your personal info or indeed it's not a way for

00:07:58

Anyone to steal your personal info um yes there is vehicle specific in from informa information typically contained within can logs and depending on which can bus that we're communicating with there may be more or less of that vehicle specific information to take the example of the limb it is connected to the powertrain can so examples of messages that would be

00:08:29

Exchanged over powertrain can would be your battery voltage your state of charge the current draw what the charger is doing what the motor and inverter are doing the vehicle speed things like that in terms of vehicle specific personal information about the worst of it that we see on these logs from di3 is the vin and the mileage from the parent vehicle now if we got into other areas of the

00:09:06

Car could we get access to phone records and things like that i guess so but not on powertrain can and powertrain can is the stuff that we're interested in so i have a few can logs from a bmw i3 here and if i were some hacker type person that wanted to follow up one of these people

00:09:35

Or hunt them down or get into their bank accounts or um stalk them or do any of that stuff do we hear about um i would be absolutely wasting my time with those powertrain can logs folks so i just wanted to get that point across uh so that people understand it that it's not any kind of a security risk um or that the kind of people

00:10:02

Like myself that are involved in this have some kind of nefarious intent so now with that out of the way hopefully you'll now understand uh what a can log is why we do it and what it's not so what i'm going to do now is i'm not going to bother asking the gomkat to do to do this part i'm going to show you physically how we would connect to a can bus and i'll show you some of the hardware

00:10:32

That you can buy and some of the excellent free software that you can download for yourself and experiment with that not only lets us see the raw can data but more importantly gives us the tools to reverse engineer it and to interpret it in a much more human readable way so let's get to that and uh hopefully i can get him to do something then because

00:11:02

This was supposed to be a giant production today but look at this okay so let's get straight to it what is a canvas well it's pretty damn complicated here we have a bare circuit board that in this case we'll say that this is some module in your car that is doing something it could be controlling headlights could be

00:11:35

Just i guess anything windows anything physically in your car that needs to be controlled it's connected to a can bus from the can bus is basically two wires that's it in this case the red wire is can high and black wire is called can low and this this is a differential bus so you don't actually need a ground

00:12:03

Or anything else you just need these two wires and through the signals that are transmitted on these we can get a lot of information sharing going on so let's say that we had this boss going to this control ue unit and we were interested in reverse engineering this control unit here and we want to know what can information that it transmits and most importantly what it

00:12:44

Expects to see coming back into it in order for it to believe that it's still in its parent vehicle and will perform the foot the function that we want it to so all throughout the car we're going to have these can bus wires so they will be typically in the loom and they will loop from unit to unit so you will have multiple what are called nodes on

00:13:16

The canvas so this board could be buried somewhere completely inaccessible in our car we don't need to go tearing the car apart all we need to do is to find a convenient location where we can access the same can bus so the two wires that are connected to our module that we're we're interested in

00:13:44

So next thing we need to do is to put something in here that can listen to the the canvas now there are multiple pieces of hardware available for performing this task some of them super cheap some of them super expensive and a lot of them in the middle i'm not going to attempt to cover all of them um or

00:14:17

To try to say well you know this one's better than that one the ones that i use are typically things that i have myself that i've pieced to gather but there is one important thing that we have to specificfy here is that automotive can buses particularly particularly powertrain can buses run with a lot of data on them example the bmw i3

00:14:48

Powertrain can runs at about two and a half thousand frames per second so if you can imagine that's like two and a half thousand wards per second on this particular phone line the tesla model 3 powertrain can pushes that up to depending on what the car is doing between three and a half and four thousand frames per second so a lot of the low-cost

00:15:16

Can bus loggers and things like that that you see will at best lose some of the conversation and most of the time won't even be able to listen to it they'll just sit there looking at you so the ones that i recommend that i've used are based on the Arduino DUE um ATMEL sam 3x80 microcontroller i'll bring you on to the

00:15:47

Computer in a few minutes and i will show you where you can purchase specific piece of hardware for doing just that so these little ones that i have on the bench today are kind of my hacky versions of a much neater piece of hardware that i will be showing to you but the principle remains the same we'll have a module we'll have a usb

00:16:16

Cable that we'll connect to it's just normal usb that we'd have on most computers we'll have two wires coming out of this board strangely enough they'll be can high and can low and we will find a convenient place on our can bus that is connected to the module that we're interested in and we will basically tap into it we will connect our

00:16:47

Module into the can boss so now we've effectively tapped the phone line and we can listen to the conversations on there we will not participate in them we will not put any of our information in here we will just listen and that is what a logging system does now obviously in this case here it's just a

00:17:14

Few wires that i have on the bench that are forming the can bus um and thus there's no problem cutting them and sticking our own connectors in here now quite understandably uh some folks particularly if they've gone out and bought a new car don't like the idea of some weirdo on the internet and his very lazy cat uh connecting into their powertrain can bus or you know having to

00:17:47

Um strip the wire or to connect to it that's perfectly understandable hell i wouldn't let someone i mean you have to cut that part out yeah okay right so there's a few alternatives uh to doing that the first is that most of these buses will connect to places in the car where there will be um multi-pin connectors so elon will you let me

00:18:15

Elon thank you so you'll typically have a connector like this one this is from a tesla model 3. and you see here that there is a yellow and a blue wire that's actually a can bus so if this was in your vehicle plugged in somewhere then one way that we can gain access to the can bus without having to you know cut into the wiring is by a procedure known as

00:18:42

Back probing and if i can see how much preparation i put into my videos the gomcat was supposed to get the back probes out but of course he didn't do that either so what we have is typically a probe like this that's very fine and has a point we simply insert it through the back seal until it makes contact with the pin in the connect connector

00:19:10

Perform the log and remove the probe and there's no damage anywhere um so that's one way that we can circumvent having to cut into the wiring there is an even more better way and thanks to a donation by a member of the open inverter forum i have just such a device here that i can show to you now this little guy is an inventure cl can version 2.2 and what this

00:19:47

Is is it's an inductive can pick up so how does this does this work well it's got four wires we give it 12 volts and ground and it has can it's our yellow and blue wires here now on the back it's got two screws here so if we go on cat could you not have gotten the screwdriver out for me oh my god gonna be one of my worst productions

00:20:16

Ever this now i'm gonna make an absolute idiot out of myself because i never do that on camera really really seriously you couldn't even have got a phillips screwdriver for my god yeah this co-hosting thing is really not going to work out is it seriously we got all flathead screwdrivers if i didn't want a flathead screwdriver okay okay okay they won't get angry

00:20:42

Won't get angry you know they say that these partnerships never work but okay you know i was wrong had to be me to be made to fool of again give me a second folks i'm going to get a phillips screwdriver here all right so we'll just edit out that part there where i look like a complete idiot trying to open phillips screws with a flathead screwdriver

00:21:07

So as i was saying with the correct screwdriver look at that i'll use the screening can from the limb for something practical we simply take these two screws out of the back of it pop the back cover off and inside here so there's two little white lines one of them says can high one of them says can low so if we were to take our CAN bus wires and

00:21:48

Place the can low wire just without cutting it without doing anything in there like that and they can't hide wire just in on top of it there's a little thing on the back here to keep them separated so i think the actual correct way to do this is basically to stick them yeah there it is is basically to

00:22:13

Stick them around yeah there's these little padded things i haven't used this before so of course i'm making an idiot out of myself i should ask the golem cat to um maybe to demonstrate this he's much more ambidextrous than me so we take our wires wrap them through the back cover just screw the back cover back on perform the can log do what we need to

00:22:49

Do we can take the screws out release the wires and that's it we're basically done that's our can log performed so there are many ways to do this in ways that do not risk you know anything being discovered any vehicle warranties being invalidated or anything

00:23:16

Of that nature so that's how we connect to a canvas finally i'm going to go ahead now on the computer here and i will show you how we you know where to get a proper piece of hardware to perform this function and the relevant computer software that you would also need okay folks so this is uh we're on the computer here and what we're looking at is the EVTVDUE

00:23:57

micro controller board and this is what i would uh strongly recommend that you use for canvas logging so i'll put a link in the description to this web address here where you can go to purchase it it has a purchase price of just under 100 us dollars and you can come in here and you can read the instructions for it and a lot more of the data but just want to focus on one thing here

00:24:32

It'll be very simple so we have a usb port and so we connect to our computer we have four screw terminals on this connection block we have a ground and a power in case we want to run it in a car from a 12 volt supply but in the case of can logging we will simply be powering it from

00:24:56

The usb port and then the bottom is can i and can also are to our canvas and that's it that is our connect connection finally we need some software to run on our computer to connect to to this and that software is called savvycan and it's again i'll put a link to this address in the description and it is available here it is completely free and open source

00:25:34

And is basically without a doubt the best piece of software that you can get for can reverse engineering there is a good bit of uh discussion going on over on github here and i believe there is here a link to an older video that uh colin kidder who is the gentleman that designed and maintains this uh did uh so here it is here is a very basic

00:26:08

Video on how to use it and you can grab this for uh mac linux and windows both here and over on github so i'd recommend that you go to the git github to get the latest version so i won't get into any detail on this at the minute and encourage people even have a passing interest grab this and you can download some of

00:26:36

The can logs from my uh github as well and have a look at them and you know get yourself a little bit more familiar with them so that just yeah you just get to see what's going on under the bonnet of your car in a little bit more detail so that's about it there's the hardware that you need and the accompanying

00:27:04

Software now i understand there are other hardware software combos some of them very expensive some of them very cheap i'm not going to get into what's better or best or anything i can simply tell you from my own experiences that this is this and this are the way to go for the modern high-speed can bus networks

00:27:33

All righty folks so i hope that that's how to clear up a little bit about why we need can logs uh what we do with them what we don't do with them and the basics of how we obtain them yeah that was a board yeah anyway um so i'll just make final appeal here that if you do have bmw i3 and you will be willing

00:28:03

To let to either do yourself what i've demonstrated or to let me do it for you then do please leave a comment and get in touch because the more data do we get on the limb uh then the better that we're going to be able to make all of this stuff work so i'll leave it there as usual don't forget to dislike do not share and for pete's sake unsubscribe from this stupid channel i will put links in the description to

00:28:38

The EVTVDUE board and the savvy can software as well as the usual suspects in there for the open inverter forum github paypal and patreon in case you want to buy food for him no i don't want to do that either so until next time from the gom cat and from me happy CAN bus logging
|}

== I want to build a CAN bus device... ==
Once you've got your CAN messages sorted, you can build a dedicated device to send or receive those messages. For example, you could build a custom battery gauge. Or add a touch screen controller. Anything is possible! If you want, you can just use the Arduino hardware described above. Alternatively, something small and reasonably robust like a [https://www.pjrc.com/teensy/techspecs.html Teensy 3.x] might be a better choice for a permanent solution.

Here's a quick-start guide to [[getting CAN working on a Teensy 3.6]].

Here's a simple CAN bus [[State of Charge meter using a Teensy 4.0]].

[[Category:CAN]] [[Category:Introduction]] [[Category:Tutorials]]

ZombieVerter VCU

2022-11-29T18:32:52Z

Mark: Restructured video section. Added video 4, moved highlights out of table into a collapsable section. Also added full transcripts into a collapsable section, to hopefully allow for better searching of content in the videos

{| class="wikitable" style="background-color:#ffffcc;" cellpadding="10"
|'''KINDLY NOTE:'''
*A fully tested V1a kit is now (Nov2022) available for general sale [https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-webshop/vcu-boards/zombie-vcu here]. The boards are now shipping with the Wemos wifi module and all parts will be included in the kit. The Olimex header is still there for those who may prefer that option. See [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=48250#p48250 this post] for the Wemos wifi module mounting location.

*''Unless you have a specific reason not to, end users should use a software release from https://github.com/damienmaguire/Stm32-vcu/releases<nowiki/>.''
|}

'''Development continues''' and you can
[https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1277 follow and contribute along with the development here on the forum]

[https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1696 '''Support''' is available via a separate thread on the forum]

==Introduction ==
Rather than crack open inverters and swap components about to drive them, what if we simply send them the messages they're expecting? This has been the case with a couple of existing designs (Nissan leaf inverter and GS450h) and thanks to the SAM3X8E microcontroller no longer being stocked by JLCPCB this project looks to take it further.

So rather than driving an inverter powerstage this version sends CAN for the Leaf inverter or Sync serial for the GS450h and of course can be expanded to any number of others. This will be the default firmware for all VCU products from now on and future hardware will support future fun packed stuff like FLEXRAY!!!

It's basically an <s>rip off</s> homage and builds on other people's hard work in the shape of the following projects

*[https://github.com/jsphuebner/stm32-car STM32-CAR project]
*[https://github.com/jsphuebner/stm32-sine Openinverter]
*[https://github.com/Isaac96/SimpleISA ISA library]
*Leaf inverter driver by Celeron55

What we have as of now is the openinverter wrapper with things like :

*Throttle cal and mapping,
*Precharge and contactor control,
*Temp derating,
*BMS limits,
*for/rev/neutral control,
*Graphing and monitoring,
*Firmware updates via the web interface,
*Cruise control,
*Fuel gauge driver,
*etc

==Hardware==
[[File:Zombv1boardb.jpg|thumb|alt=|Location of remaining parts]]
So you've ordered your kit, first things first, watch the following two videos to assemble it.

Due to chip shortages (written summer 2021) the board isn't fully assembled so you will need to do some soldering, or take it to a local phone repair shop (or similar) who'll find soldering at this scale like playing with Duplo (Legos to you Yanks).
{| class="wikitable"
|+Parts to be fitted to ZombieVerter VCU
!Name
!Part Numer
!Alternative Part Number
|-
|CONN1
|
|
|-
|IC10
|MCP25625T
|
|-
|IC14
|TJA1020
|MCP2004
|-
|IC19
|NCV7356
|
|-
|IC20
|TJA1055T
|
|-
| IC21, IC22
|AD5160
|
|-
|IC27, IC28, IC29
|FAN3122
|
|}

===The enclosure kit links===

You only need one, but below are two options - one with just the connector, and the other prewired with 3m long leads. The reference part numbers are 211PC562S8009 and 211PC562S0008.

*Enclosure Kit with Header, connector and pins<ref>https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32857771975.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.39f24c4dWOmGPE (Backup: [https://web.archive.org/web/20220524004318/https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32857771975.html Web Archive])</ref>
*Connector and pins<ref>https://de.aliexpress.com/item/32822692950.html (Backup: [https://web.archive.org/web/20221119203700/https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832636378198.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US Web Archive])</ref>
*Prewired connector with 3M leads (limited colors which will not match standard wire colouring conventions)<ref>https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003512474442.html (Backup: [http://web.archive.org/web/20221120105651/https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803326159690.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US Web Archive])</ref>

The kits do not come with M3 screws needed to secure the board to the enclosure (2 need to be slightly longer), and to secure the lid. Nor a gasket for the lid.

'''Note that in addition to the VCU, the inverter and transmission, you will require a specific CANBUS connected shunt''': [[Isabellenhütte Heusler]]

===Build and Configuration Videos===
====ZombieVerter VCU V1 Build Part 1====
<youtube>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=geZuIbGHh30</youtube>

{| role="presentation" class="wikitable mw-collapsible mw-collapsed"
| Highlights
|-
|
'''[https://youtu.be/geZuIbGHh30?t=33s 00:33]''' Warning and suggestion to go watch cat videos instead '''[https://youtu.be/geZuIbGHh30?t=66s 01:06]''' Recap about the ZombieVerter VCU Build Part 1 '''[https://youtu.be/geZuIbGHh30?t=184s 03:04]''' How to get one '''[https://youtu.be/geZuIbGHh30?t=215s 03:35]''' Design files currently require E10 Patreon membership/contribution if wanting to build your own '''[https://youtu.be/geZuIbGHh30?t=268s 04:28]''' Components still requiring soldering '''[https://youtu.be/geZuIbGHh30?t=303s 05:03]''' IC19 - 8 pin SOIC for single wire CAN (NCV7356)

'''[https://youtu.be/geZuIbGHh30?t=360s 06:00]''' IC10 - SPI CAN controller and transceiver (MCP25625T) '''[https://youtu.be/geZuIbGHh30?t=390s 06:30]''' <del>IC1,3,5,6,7,24,25,26 load driver mosfets (NCV8402)</del> '''[https://youtu.be/geZuIbGHh30?t=440s 07:20]''' Do you need these components? '''[https://youtu.be/geZuIbGHh30?t=520s 08:40]''' Soldering begins - IC19 '''[https://youtu.be/geZuIbGHh30?t=550s 09:10]''' Soldering iron for SOIC parts '''[https://youtu.be/geZuIbGHh30?t=567s 09:27]''' Applying flux using Damien's favorite Flux, UV80 '''[https://youtu.be/geZuIbGHh30?t=634s 10:34]''' Magnifier headset '''[https://youtu.be/geZuIbGHh30?t=807s 13:27]''' Soldering MCP25625 '''[https://youtu.be/geZuIbGHh30?t=955s 15:55]''' Suggests getting an phone/computer repair shop to help out if needed '''[https://youtu.be/geZuIbGHh30?t=1025s 17:05]''' Using hot air gun to warm the board and position the chip '''[https://youtu.be/geZuIbGHh30?t=1174s 19:34]''' <del>Soldering NCV8402s</del> '''[https://youtu.be/geZuIbGHh30?t=1408s 23:28]''' Clean soldering with IPA Solvent '''[https://youtu.be/geZuIbGHh30?t=1480s 24:40]''' First power up test using bench power supply to limit current to a few hundred mA '''[https://youtu.be/geZuIbGHh30?t=1607s 26:47]''' 60mA current draw with no wifi board '''[https://youtu.be/geZuIbGHh30?t=1655s 27:35]''' Wifi module '''[https://youtu.be/geZuIbGHh30?t=1790s 29:50]''' Power up test with wifi draws 90mA '''[https://youtu.be/geZuIbGHh30?t=1825s 30:25]''' Enclosure kit(s) '''[https://youtu.be/geZuIbGHh30?t=2162s 36:02]''' Soldering the PCB header (56 pin) '''[https://youtu.be/geZuIbGHh30?t=2668s 44:28]''' Installing in the enclosure '''[https://youtu.be/geZuIbGHh30?t=3030s 50:30]''' Cameo appearance by Gome cat
|}

{| role="presentation" class="wikitable mw-collapsible mw-collapsed"
| Transcript
|-
|
hello folks welcome to today's i was going to say semi-exciting episode but let's be fair this is not going to be exciting at all is it so what we're going to be dealing with today is going through the assembly of the zombiverter vcu uh pcb this is the v1 this is the release version now for those of you

00:00:31

That may have accidentally stumbled upon this video while searching for funny cat content i can assure you move on that hanging around here would not be a good plan furthermore if you are watching this on good old youtube i would like to inform you that it is also available free of advertisements on vimeo so now do we have those important public health announcements out of our

00:01:02

Way we can proceed onwards so quick little recap because i know somebody's going to ask what is the zombie verter vcu well quite simply it is a quite simply it is a control module that is designed to sit between a vehicle that is being converted to electric drive

00:01:36

And quite a few if not all of the electric drive components so this guy kind of acts as an interpreter it will take in things like our ignition switch throttle pedal various communication from the car spit out what the drivetrain may need and do the reverse as well to keep both the car and the uh drivetrain components

00:02:06

Happy now the aim of this particular design is to take away the programming element that is quite daunting to some people including me and make it a simple menu driven system that can be accessed over what wi-fi just using a web browser based upon the open inverter system so if you want some more information on this i do have another video

00:02:43

Uh that gives a lot more detail on the kind of overview so i will link that in the description also but today what we're going to do is we're going to focus on the physical assembly uh that is required on the board so first thing how do we get one well currently there are two ways uh the first is that you can purchase this board

00:03:15

Along with some of these components from myself on the evbmw web shop and there will be a link in the description to that also if that doesn't quite appeal to you this is a open source uh design the design files themselves however are not as yet this is coming up to the end of july 2021 available uh freely you will have to sign up to my patreon under 10

00:03:52

Euros a month tier to access those design files as of now once you would then have those files you can of course cancel that patreon membership and go ahead and get boards made by any of the uh pcb makers like pcbway or jlc pcb and there'll be links in the description to both of those companies also so um once you then have the board as we see here

00:04:27

First thing that you can spot is that there are some components missing that is because due to the i guess the chip shortage stuff there's a few of the components on here that are not available from the board builders so what are those components would be the first thing that we need to work out so um

00:04:59

Starting from the top here you'll see ic 19 it's a little eight pin soic uh packet this is this guy here ic 19 is an ncv 7356 single wire can transceiver one of the protocols that we support here at least in hardware so far is single wire can this can be useful

00:05:38

For such things as the chevy volt heater cabin heater that is which i actually have installed in my e46 touring and we will be using this very board in that vehicle the next device then that you will see is ic10 which is this qfp part which is an mcp25625 so this guy is a is a spi can controller and transceiver because we have three can with three can channels on this board

00:06:25

Finally then we have these um guys here ic5 say 7 ic577c 24 25 26 1 and 3 and those are these ncv 8402 kind of load driver mosfets so before we can do anything with the board we need to fit these components now as i say if you do purchase the board from me you will receive these parts in

00:07:02

Your kit along with a wi-fi module and adapter header which we will show you later on but for now we need to go ahead and fit these components so you might say to me at this point well do i really need to fit these and the the answer is it depends what you plan to do i'll be 99 certain you would need to fit the the

00:07:37

Ncv8402s because they're used for things like controlling contactors and so forth so you will definitely more than likely anyway need to fit these parts the ic10 and ic19 will depend if you intend to use the third can channel or and or if you intend to use single wire can but just for the sake of completeness here with this

00:08:05

Uh video we'll go ahead and fit those components anyway so nothing to do what to do it as they say and we'll be showing you the enclosure system uh later on in the video also i'm going to make some space now here and we'll get straight into it apologies for the background noise it is feeding time for the boards after minutes so they're

00:08:32

Busily chowing down and get another 25 kilograms of uh bird seed so let me see we want our soldering iron on so we'll start off here make sure i'm getting new folks in here now as a well as i can with ic19 or ncv735 so how i generally do these things um so far the soic part and the the drivers we're going to just use a

00:09:10

Small tip uh it's going to use a small little tip on my soldering iron here and we'll just individually solder them so before we do that um this is the flux that i tend to use for this kind of thing it's very cheap comes from aliexpress and it's uh kind of like a paste so it's very much like a paste because

00:09:41

You can't open it ah there we go okay so what i tend to do let me get that out of there is not get it on my fingers which i've just done is just use a little off cut of a cable tie that's what i find the best and just work up a little bit of the paste on the end of it and just smear it on to the pads um of the component that you want to solder just a little tin film this is going to do two things for

00:10:12

Us the first is is it is going to adhere the component to the board when we're getting in there to actually solder it which is kind of important so i'm going to go ahead and just get out one of these little components here just using the tweezers just let it out like so now with a lot of this stuff um how you can see it and how you can you know get a good view of the thing is

00:10:43

Really critical so i don't have a fancy louis rossman type microscope so what i use is just this little headset just a little cheap magnifier headset just goes on like so you can adjust this little uh plate here so you can see much better um what's going on uh with your board so i'll be doing that here we're just seeing that on my face adjusting it and we get right in

00:11:14

Here and we'll just take our device which of course won't want to go this way so we can identify the pin one by the markings on the top and just basically sit him in there close enough to where we want him to be and he's in there now you can see i don't know how well this is going to come out on the video apologies i had bought some

00:11:42

Kind of lenses to go on the phone that i had hoped would allow me to kind of you know get in here a kind of a macro view but you know typically they of course didn't work or too small to fit the phone so i'm going to go ahead solder this component in as i said this is going to be a super boring video but it is one of the things that we need to do for all of our new projects is just to be able to help

00:12:15

Folks to help folks to be able to do the work themselves um and that's really the critical thing that i'm trying to promote here is it's not so much about you know me having uh evs it's about you being able to do it for yourself because we need to spread that information and knowledge around there so that you can't just

00:12:44

You know have a car that you don't know how to maintain so i'm just individually soldering each of those pads at the minute it's quite easy on soic parts fairly friendly and the flux uh when it gets to heat kind of goes uh fluid which is excellent that's what we need now oh nearly dipped it into flux

00:13:23

All right so that one's easy now the one that'll probably challenge folks the most and i include myself in this will be the um mcp25625 this is our uh our little qfp part now the trick here is a little bit of preparation as not that hard if we do that so first things first get our flux on our cable tie and just smear a nice

00:13:58

Blob around that just all over the pads like so now we're not going to put the device on there just yet what we're going to do i'm going to get our soldering iron it's a nice tin solder and we're going to just put a little bit of leaded solder on all of these pads now again the flux will

00:14:30

Go liquid once the heat of the soldering iron hits it and we're literally just looking to run our iron over all of those pads now the good news is that these days there's a lot of folks doing this kind of work on youtube so uh there's plenty of good tutorials out there because this is the same principle as we'd be

00:15:07

Using for repairing laptops or phones or you know that kind of thing so now that we have our uh little bit of leaded solder on there now would be the time to excuse me introduce our device oh i need a solder fume extractor now i know that at this point i'm probably losing five out of the six people that are

00:15:38

Still watching this video wow that flux is good for clearing out the throat um might be saying i can't do this i don't have this kind of gear and that's fine one of the advantages is that you know in most jurisdictions these days quite a lot of um places are now popping up uh that do uh this kind of board level repair work there does seem to be a bit

00:16:13

Of a renaissance on the old kind of tv repair shops from uh back in the day uh but there's but they're you know obviously doing things like repairing phones and computers which is really good um and they'll do this kind of work for you you know for very little money um i could even use this video as kind of a you know to show them what

00:16:42

We're trying to do so i'm going to take my device i'm going to line up the dots there's a dot on the on one corner of the package and we're going to line that up with the dot here so i'm just getting it approximately in place doesn't need to be very accurate what i'm now going to do is break out the hot air and we're going to basically float that

00:17:08

Component in there well at least i'll try to do that if i'm not uh knocking the camera out of play so just waiting for the hot air station to come up to temperature there we go i don't even need the fancy glasses at this stage now the trick we want to do is we want to warm the board up first of all so

00:18:00

There we go you might have just seen it on camera hopefully you did but the package just jerked into the right position there should be it so i'm going to get in with my glasses there at this point yeah that looks brilliant so i'll just go around now with the going to go around those edges just flow those joints make sure everything's

00:18:47

Nice and happy [Music] and do that while our board is still [Music] warm there we go so that is our um ncb7356 ic19 and mcp25625 ic10 fitted now the remainder our ncv8402 so rather than bore you completely to

00:19:41

Tears what i will do at this point is i will fit one here on camera then i'll go ahead and fit the rest off camera and then we will go ahead power up the board to do a a test program it and then go ahead it will fit the wi-fi module and show you the enclosure system that we have and that'll be it for this particular

00:20:12

Episode so yes you want to fit one mcp or that ncv8402 so same principle work up some flux here and i'm just gonna just get a light coating of it i'm going to put it on all of them because obviously i'll be doing all of them here off camera that's it oh one more and it's quite a few of these guys

00:21:03

All right so i get a good smear of flux on here i'm gonna put a little bit more on these ones just to be sure there we go all right that's it it's actually finished with our flux now i can get rid of that and just cap it off so we will just take one out of this packet and i'll just make absolutely certain that it's the right part yes i will make certain it is the right part

00:21:35

If i can see it oh my silly thing oh wow i always embarrass myself on video but i don't really need video to embarrass myself i can do it and many other ways wow they really do this badly yes eight four zero two okay so good afternoon oh yeah that turned out nice so i'm going to just set him here we'll just do it on the ic5 pad here just for

00:22:11

Purposes of this demonstration but they'll all be the very same uh i'm in here with our soldering iron a little bit of leaded solder do there we go and finally the tab so i usually rotate the board i kind of make the board work for me um for these things and that's it there's our ncv 8402 fitted so as i say rather than boring

00:23:19

Everyone to tears terribly i'll go ahead fit the remainder parts and then we'll come back for the power up test all righty we've got our all of the ncv8402s fitted i've just given the board a little bit of a clean off with some ipa just to get rid of flux residue you may need to get a little brush just to uh get rid of some of that but at this point we now have our board

00:23:50

Um assembled that's that's the full um amount of component assembly that needs to be done on the board when you actually get it now there are a series of uh configuration pads here depending on what arrangement that we wish to use on country and we may need to solder some of these but that'll be

00:24:23

That'll be covered in another episode i don't want these things to be too long and boring just enough boring that people unsubscribe now so what we want to do now is a very basic power up test we can turn our soldering iron off so let's go ahead and set up to do our basic power up test okay so for a basic power up test i'm using uh a bench power supply here

00:24:53

Got two leads i've got a ground on this green lead i've got a positive on this brown one now i know folks are going to say oh you know what if i don't have a bench top power supply can i use a 12 volt battery answer to that question is yes and no yes you can and if you've done everything fine and there's no mistakes on the board then everything should work perfectly no because if there is a mistake on the

00:25:25

Board and you connect a 12 volt battery to this you can get a very large current flow that can cause damage to the board or components so i would recommend some kind of a power supply uh with a current limit of a few hundred milli amps but damien i hear you say i still don't have a power supply like that okay well simple thing to do

00:25:55

If you just have a 12 volt battery get yourself um a 12 volt tail lamp bulb so just like a brake light bulb or a just a 12 volt 21 watt bulb and put it in series with your leads so that if there is a short or something silly here it will limit the current flow so i'm going to take our positive brown wire connect this to the top right

00:26:29

Um hope you can see that so see what i'm connecting that is just to the absolute top pin there gonna take my ground green one and connect it to the pin under that and straight away let me turn off the light here you can see we've got our little led comes on here and it says tree v tree on now we're drawing about 60 milliamps from our power supply at this point so

00:26:58

That is a pretty good sign that everything is working as we intend it to sorry the lighting is so bad here but i hope you can see that little led there anyway so that is our basic uh power up test completed so at least we know now that the you know there's no shorts or nothing silly going on on our board and we've fitted our components properly

00:27:31

And so forth so the next thing let me tell you down here a little bit that we're gonna want to do um is just have a quick look at the wi-fi now the wi-fi module again if you buy the board from me this comes supplied i should also point out that if you buy the board for me it comes pre-programmed as does the wi-fi module so the module um will be let's take it out of the packet

00:28:03

Here so you can see it this little guy here and he comes with a little um holder so what i typically do when i'm fitting these is just put the i just put the little pin header in there so it'll right angle pin header my board around and sit it in like that from the top and go ahead and just kick the soldering iron back on actually i'm going to change the bait in my soldering iron to a larger one

00:28:36

Ah just let me make this job a little bit easier all right so what i typically do here is from the top side of the board get some standard solder just pick one of the corner pins and just put a little bit of solder on them here just from this side and then like so that keeps it in place then i can flip over and just solder in the rest of the pins

00:29:12

From the back there we go it's our wi-fi module fitted at this point uh we can do our little power up test again so just positive on the top right and ground underneath them and you'll see there that we should get a little red light on the uh wi-fi module as well or up to about 90 milliamps of current uh so that proves our wi-fi

00:30:11

Everything else is working fine here just from a basic power point of view now so let me go ahead and make a little bit of room here for the next phase of the operation and that is the enclosure system that's been a bit of a challenge again due to the shortages and so forth to find something that was repeatable for our folks now the good news is is that we have

00:30:42

Done so let me just actually put the board up here for a second i'll bring this into the center of the shot so the little kit that you're seeing here um comprises of a um i hope it comprises yeah there it is so this kit first of all where do i get it and how much does it cost well the end enclosure header

00:31:14

Pins connector the whole lot comes from aliexpress express put a link in the description to that for you this whole kit i think is well under 30 euros and they have thousands of these i do not supply these you will have to purchase this for yourself now the reason for that is is that it's a big logistical thing for me

00:31:42

To kind of bring in a lot of these stored them and shipped them and i'm just adding cost to you there's no benefit i wouldn't be doing anything with this so um what i recommend is that you just purchase this kit uh from aliexpress for yours yourself um it's gonna save you money it's gonna save me legit logistics and

00:32:12

It just makes a lot of sense now as well as the enclosure the header and the pins on all this there's another option that you can get and i will link that in the description as well and that is if i can get it out of here oops all right is a complete wiring harness so pre-crimped ready to fit on with i think it's about three meters

00:32:42

Of cable here all different colors all nicely terminated into the header um so this is i don't know how much this is maybe 50 or 60 euros i think um to buy this and you can buy all of these together i think from the same seller as well so makes a lot of sense and again it makes no sense for me to carry this thing um you know it can just be up to folks

00:33:13

To decide uh what they want so and get it for themselves so all right let's break back into our kit here and have a look at it so the first thing we get uh is we get this enclosure which is quite a nice aluminium uh enclosure uh it's i don't know whether it's anodized or painted or what whatever now you will see i've bought a few of

00:33:45

These now just for my own projects and you will see things like you know there'll be a bit of missing coating in there and you know a little bit of scratch marks and it's a bit dusty bit scratchy but you know this is going to be buried in some part of your car um so you know it doesn't you know who cares right it's it's just a readily available good quality enclosure

00:34:16

Um so that's the actual enclosure part of it let me get rid of that bag all right so then what we get in this part is all this stuff yeah let me get rid of that bag all right so we get pins we get the connector uh the plug we got the pins for the plug we get the seal you're going to need this seal to go on the box here

00:34:52

But for the minute this is the guy that we really want which is the header oops which mounts on our pcb so let me go ahead try not to stab myself with this very sharp scalpel and get it out of here all right [Applause] and i certainly packed this well uh a couple of different sellers i think on uh aliexpress have these i think they're very popular with

00:35:46

Lpg and cng gas conversion ecu's i think someone on the forum said they're like some old bosch ecu connector but anywho this is our connector header and this is the component that we're going to fit next we're going to fit this to our pcb here so that basically we'll be able to get the signals out of and into the board now

00:36:21

The pinhole sizes here are quite tight they're tight for a reason and that is because in my design of the board i need to run tracks between the pins and that means that i need to keep those pad sizes as tight as i physically can so you'll see on the back of the board there's some of that stuff too so the trick is don't go mad and try and force this

00:36:48

We need to kind of take our time and just try and walk in all of the pins and i know that because i'm saying this now i'll make an absolute mess out of this thing so how i tend to do it is if i have the tools i need and turn off our soldering iron for a minute um where am i going here okay i just use this just a little a little small flat blade screwdriver because i'll see here straight away

00:37:18

There was a pin that didn't want to line up so kind of just rocking the the these in here and i'll feel them starting to bite in if i look at the back of the board we'll see they're starting to line up but obviously i've got success well i've got success here or my thumb is they're starting to come true but not here at this side so if i was to just force this it would

00:37:47

Just push the pins back it wouldn't get get it correct it just wouldn't get a correct uh fit so what i'm going to try and do is just to rock the board around a little bit like this and i might do just take it off and just use the edge of the board just to make sure the pins are all lined up properly which they are which is good to see and i'll start back over

00:38:19

On this side actually try and make things a little bit so i'm going to try and keep this in shot for you folks as well i'm just almost there now there it is there we go and i'm just watching for anything that doesn't have a pin coming up through it which i think i'm good actually there we are

00:38:52

I'm just pressing down now from the pins making sure that i've got no gaps here and all my pins are poking through which they are and that's my header physically slotted in there try and let you see that just so there's some kind of record of me for once doing something correctly there we go all right so i'm to just squeeze now

00:39:28

These two guys here just to make absolutely sure and kick my soldering iron back on and what we'll do here uh is just again just make certain just even run your finger along here looking for a missing man kind of thing um like that just to be absolutely certain and then it's no prayer well get that in the in the leg um it's just pretty much come along and just solder in the uh

00:40:08

Just solder in the solder independence speaking of missing man all right i am looking forward to the old top gun maverick and who thinks that iceman is dead i mean i can't bring myself to that thought but lots of people seem to think that and it's a concern for me so we're just gonna go ahead and do all of these here super boring on camera for you

00:40:53

As i was saying earlier if this is something that you're not comfortable with uh and if you don't have a friend or a friend or a friend i could do this just say there are there is a bit of a renaissance on repair shops uh springing up which is really good to see uh but it does mean that there's people that have these skills now in a lot of jurisdictions where they may not have

00:41:22

Been previously and uh definitely worth having a look around you know in your local town village area for somebody to be willing to do a little bit of this work and even if the you know the company or the shop themselves don't feel comfortable with it well maybe the technicians might be able to do it

00:41:49

On their their own for you so there's uh quite a few options around getting past this part you just got to be guess just a little bit of leg work to uh find them now just to be absolutely clear i do not provide these assembled or provide any kind of assembly service it's just not something i have bandwidth to do

00:42:19

Unfortunately now in regards to software i've done quite a bit of it um been a lot of really good help on the open inverter forum uh but the important thing that i'm you know trying to trying to uh generate is to get is to get as many folks involved with the project that they can you know that we can try to make this thing a a methodology to

00:42:58

Get more people into the uh into the mindset to doing one of these conversions isn't you know particularly expensive or isn't particularly difficult and just to get away from the whole programming aspect for the end user just have it a menu driven kind of a thing so we've already got some good uh menu options we have ccs fast charging in there now i'll be

00:43:34

Adding to demo and hopefully some traction control stuff in here as well so it's all getting quite quite interesting now that is it from our soldering point of view we can turn our soldering iron back off our pin soldered in so just a last look here just to be absolutely certain not of any pins sitting up so it helps

00:44:08

To look down just look down here no all the pins are in perfectly there so that's good yeah that looks pretty good and that is our that's our completed board really uh so then the last pieces of the puzzle are take our enclosure a little gray gasket in here just grab that gasket

00:44:49

And the gasket goes around the um just goes around this guy here round the header into this into this kind of a kind of a area here well i've managed to make a mess out of it on camera yay well done damien all right here we go that's our gasket fitted then our oh i'm an idiot yeah you are an idiot hold on idiot so just to

00:45:31

Show you that i2 can screw up i managed to put the gasket on the wrong way you need these little tabs to be up the top so let's go ahead and just refit the gasket the right way obviously i did that on purpose just to demonstrate that to you folks couldn't possibly make a mistake great damien doesn't make mistakes now so one more time gasket on the right way

00:46:03

Our pcb just sits in like this and we need four little m3 screws just to uh secure it there'll be a slightly longer screw needed here because that takes in the um the uh header whereas these just screw straight onto the pcb and that's it i'm not going to screw this board in now because i will be in the next video

00:46:29

Um you know programming it and things like that but when it's uh in like so we take our lid and then our lid will screw in like that and then pretty much this is our completed vcu it's a nice you know solid metal case you've got tabs here where you can mount it um the one thing they don't give you in any of these kits is the gasket that would go around here

00:47:02

So i don't know why that is um maybe other folks would be ill be able to find that particular gasket but then obviously if you know if you get this part of the kit um you know you can go ahead and crimp on pins onto your wiring uh pop them in to this guy and put the i'll put these connector things on here i'm pretty sure if i remember correctly this is a 56 pin

00:47:36

Uh system i think there's 26 on each of these guys uh so for resources for this project if you look in the description be a link to github uh where the software is completely open source there's none of that behind any kind of paywalls or anything just the design files as i said earlier are just behind a little bit of a paywall for now um just uh

00:48:11

Just until i make enough money to retire to lanzarote so this is it in the next episode we will uh program the device and um fix it into the and fl and closure here and i might if folks want to do a more in-depth uh video of what the various features are in here and what the various components do the there are pdf schematics and board

00:48:44

Layouts and the actual garbers i think i have up on the github as well so there's plenty of resource there for folks to get involved with it uh there's a there's two threads over on the open inverter forum one is a dedicated support tread and the the the other one is where i do some of the development work for it so

00:49:11

Folks that is uh i guess video one in the zombie verter vcu um assembly let's call it uh to get us you know more familiar with the board the enclosure system the header the connectors all that so i hope you have not enjoyed this um and as i say don't forget to check the links in the description both for specific links for this project and more general stuff like patreon paypal the

00:49:49

Forum um pcb way jlcpcb and whatever else you know that might be useful i tend to leave in there so i'll leave it at that don't forget to dislike thumbs down do not share this crap with anyone unsubscribe if you have found yourself subscribed for some weird reason and um until next time then

00:50:24

Happy vcu assembly seriously gom you decide to show up now just when the works finished like i literally just made nearly a full hour video here and you decide that now is the right time to show up all right you know right when i'm gonna get the cup of tea and chill out and that you want to show oh well ah
|}

====ZombieVerter VCU V1 Build Part 2====
<youtube>https://youtu.be/MUhs9j9R9Mg</youtube>

{| role="presentation" class="wikitable mw-collapsible mw-collapsed"
| Highlights
|-
|
'''[https://youtu.be/MUhs9j9R9Mg?t=34s 00:34]''' Health warning and suggestion to go watch cat videos instead 
'''[https://youtu.be/MUhs9j9R9Mg?t=102s 01:42]''' Intro 
'''[https://youtu.be/MUhs9j9R9Mg?t=200s 03:20]''' Pinouts of the 56 pin connector 
'''[https://youtu.be/MUhs9j9R9Mg?t=256s 04:16]''' Pins 55,56 - Ground and +12V 
'''[https://youtu.be/MUhs9j9R9Mg?t=289s 04:49]''' Pins 53,54 - Reverse and Forward Direction. Apply +12V to the pin for the direction needed. Configurable in the web interface to flip these since direction is relative 
'''[https://youtu.be/MUhs9j9R9Mg?t=452s 07:32]''' Pins 52 - Start. Momentarily apply +12V to send a start signal 
'''[https://youtu.be/MUhs9j9R9Mg?t=495s 08:15]''' Pin 51 - HV Request. Apply +12v to precharge and bring up the high voltage system (and not the drive components) 
'''[https://youtu.be/MUhs9j9R9Mg?t=545s 09:05]''' Pin 50 - General Purpose 12V Input. Reserved for future use 
'''[https://youtu.be/MUhs9j9R9Mg?t=563s 09:23]''' Pin 49 - Brake Input. Connect to brake light switch to apply +12V signaling brakes are applied 
'''[https://youtu.be/MUhs9j9R9Mg?t=615s 10:15]''' Pins 45,46,47,48 - Throttle. +5V power, ground, and 1 or 2 hall effect sensor inputs 
'''[https://youtu.be/MUhs9j9R9Mg?t=660s 11:00]''' Pins 25,26,27,28 - 3 CAN bus interfaces. CAN EXT is for vehicle/body communication, CAN EXT 2 for the ISA shunt comms, CAN EXT 3 (with solderable jumpers to change modes) is for general purpose like charger, heater control 
'''[https://youtu.be/MUhs9j9R9Mg?t=885s 14:45]''' Pin 24 - Local Interface Network (LIN) 
'''[https://youtu.be/MUhs9j9R9Mg?t=956s 15:56]''' Pins 16,17,18,19,20,21,22,23 - Toyota Hybrid Inverter specific using async serial comms. 
'''[https://youtu.be/MUhs9j9R9Mg?t=1041s 17:21]''' Pin 15 - Ignition T15 In. Apply +12V to turn Ignition on. Puts VCU in run mode 
'''[https://youtu.be/MUhs9j9R9Mg?t=1134s 18:54]''' Pins 37,38,39,40,41,42 - Toyota Hybrid Transmission shift control 
'''[https://youtu.be/MUhs9j9R9Mg?t=1182s 19:42]''' Pins 35,36 - POT1 & POT2. Digital potentiometer outputs to drive analog gauges (fuel, etc) 
'''[https://youtu.be/MUhs9j9R9Mg?t=1270s 21:10]''' Pins 32,33,34 - Low Side (LS) switches for Inverter Power, Positive side Main Contactor, Precharge Contactor 
'''[https://youtu.be/MUhs9j9R9Mg?t=1401s 23:21]''' Pin 31 - General Purpose +12V Output. LS switch for Negative side Main Contactor 
'''[https://youtu.be/MUhs9j9R9Mg?t=1441s 24:01]''' Pins 12,13,14,29,30 - Toyota Hybrid System controls 
'''[https://youtu.be/MUhs9j9R9Mg?t=1524s 25:24]''' Pins 10,11 - Digital to Analog Converter (DAC) 1 & 2. Reserved for future use - additional analog instruments etc. 
'''[https://youtu.be/MUhs9j9R9Mg?t=1593s 26:33]''' Pins 8,9 - 0-5V Analog Inputs 1 & 2. Reserved for future use (ie not implemented yet) 
'''[https://youtu.be/MUhs9j9R9Mg?t=1626s 27:06]''' Pins 5,6,7 - Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) 1-3 +12V output signals. Reserved for future use (ie not implemented yet) 
'''[https://youtu.be/MUhs9j9R9Mg?t=1676s 27:56]''' Pins 3,4 - General Purpose +12V Outputs 2 & 3. Reserved for future use (ie not implemented yet) 
'''[https://youtu.be/MUhs9j9R9Mg?t=1709s 28:29]''' Pins 1,2 - RS232 Rx/Tx Serial connection for alternation VCU communication (solder jumper configurable). Reserved for future expansion 
'''[https://youtu.be/MUhs9j9R9Mg?t=1811s 30:11]''' CAN bus connected Isabellenhutte Huesler Shunt 
'''[https://youtu.be/MUhs9j9R9Mg?t=2325s 38:45]''' Web Interface 
'''[https://youtu.be/MUhs9j9R9Mg?t=2650s 44:10]''' How to perform a software update via the web interface using a precompiled binary 
'''[https://youtu.be/MUhs9j9R9Mg?t=2852s 47:32]''' UI Features - Commands 
'''[https://youtu.be/MUhs9j9R9Mg?t=3170s 52:50]''' UI Features - Update 
'''[https://youtu.be/MUhs9j9R9Mg?t=3210s 53:30]''' UI Features - Parameters 
'''[https://youtu.be/MUhs9j9R9Mg?t=4290s 1:11:32]''' UI Features - Spot Values 
'''[https://youtu.be/MUhs9j9R9Mg?t=4914s 1:21:54]''' Epilogue 
|}

{| role="presentation" class="wikitable mw-collapsible mw-collapsed"
| Transcript
|-
|
hello folks well this is potentially the big one um i have to talk a little bit quietly because the golden cat is currently asleep after working quite diligently on the setup here so uh i'll cut right to the core issue for those that don't really want to listen to a 40-minute

00:00:29

Video of me ranting the this thing the leafgen2 pdm is now functioning under zombiverter vcu control so we can run the motor we can run uh the dc dc converter and we can run the six kilowatt charger so i'm going to get into some detail on this for you uh but first obviously the obligatory uh demonstration will be required so i'm

00:01:04

Gonna go crank up the land yacht um and uh plug the chademo in to give us a jump start and then we should be able to uh should be able to get some action here it's the standby all right so uh let's see we got to turn our multimeters on so this multimeter is measuring the voltage on the 12 volt battery and this one is measuring the current

00:01:33

On the high voltage with some connections here going into the leaf harness so this is the part that would be originally connected to the vehicle obviously we've got a 12 volt battery here connected to the pdm for both uh i guess supplying the inverter pdm and the vcu which is up there on the uh up there on the bench so

00:02:01

Uh 12.56 volts no current flow so i'm going to go ahead and uh kick on our chademo contactors in the yacht so that we can pre-charge so that is uh hv is now on so i'm going to go up to the switch podium put the ignition on and give her a flick of the start so at this point now uh we're sending can if i get my throttle pedal

00:02:36

Give it a little squeeze yeah there's our leaf motor motoring so we are in drive mode at the minute which we normally wouldn't be when we do we'd be doing charging uh so what i'm going to do now i'm going to flick on the little switch here it's just got the 12 volt power to the pdm i'm going to flick that on i'm going to plug in a charging cable okay so we've got a click here i'm gonna

00:03:05

Click in the evse uh the voltage on the battery is at um 14.17 and i've got five and a half amps of charging current coming from the pdm into the land yacht and the reason it's it's only five and a half amps is that the little uh evse that i've plugged in there is just a a two kilowatt granny cable um so

00:03:38

Basically yeah if i was to push the throttle now it would spin the motor as well so we'd be charging and driving at the same time not a good situation to be in um but just for the purposes of a test here because today has been a bit of a crazy day for me it hasn't just been hacking leaf bits there's been a lot of other craziness going on that i'll hopefully

00:04:03

Be able to talk about um at a later stage but anyway it'll certainly be marked as the day that weird stuff happened and we hacked the pdm so obviously at the minute uh we need to refine the software into vcu so that we can send power commands to the charger and send voltage commands uh to the dc to dc

00:04:30

Now my phone is nearly dead uh because i've been on the phone all day and my voice is probably croaky as well but i've got a charger in it here so what i'm gonna do i'm going to unplug the charger and we'll try and bring you folks in here we give you a little bit of a a more detailed look around uh so that you can see what's actually going on uh turns out

00:04:53

Driving this pdm is is not a big deal at all uh so okay stick with us alrighty so pdm this is a 6.6 kilowatt version from the nv 200 van or env or whatever they want to call it it's the complete stack so just get you down to the meters here so you can see that's our 12 volt

00:05:22

Voltage at the minute just been measured on the battery posts this is our hv current um we're charging at five and a half amps that orange cable obviously just goes straight up into the pdm here we've got a little pre-charged circuit just with a uh electric oven element just a main contactor and a fuse

00:05:46

Goes up to our um little distribution block and then out to the land yacht who is graciously jump starting us uh today in our endeavors so computer just working with a an arduino dewey here uh just to record can seal cedar's can flying around there on savvy can but it's all being uh generated by the uh

00:06:18

Zombivert virtual vcu um so i'm just using i think this is a kia uh ccs socket here uh just as a type two because i don't have a type 1 i've no type 1 evses at all so i just connected up this socket here ac power comes up that white wire that's all correlated air and just goes in onto the charger inlet

00:06:49

The control pilot and the plug present line that's your control pilot it's your plug present they're going into the harness here i had to work out from almost from first principles because those nissan warring diagrams are just terrible um so what else we got going on um the pdm doesn't need any weird signals i saw some folks over on

00:07:20

Uh the my nissan leaf forum were really struggling with this all the pdm needs it needs 12 volts and it's got a switch on it uh it gets ground from the casing um and it needs can i and cantaloupes this is our can here uh just coming down to this twisted pair from the vcu and we're just monitoring here with the with the with the uh dewey and savvy can

00:07:49

Set up um so really the only connections that i've made here are just 12 volts um ground can hike and low um control pilot uh proximity and there's just a relay here that just that just controls 12 volt power to the inverter um that's just an inverter

00:08:15

Power relay from the vcu because i was at a minute i've just been lazy today and i've just programmed the vcu so the vcu thinks it's in run mode which it is because it can run the inverter and i've just tagged on the extra can messages that we need to run the pdm um so i'll just go ahead and i'll give you

00:08:42

Another demo here and there are certain things certain things it won't do for us so far example uh let me put you guys on there let me put you guys on the multimeters here for a second so i'm gonna go ahead and unplug the evse just to prove to you that this is real so obviously you'll see there that um the dc dc

00:09:11

Voltage stays because that's been controlled by the can and obviously it's got the hv on there um give it a little squeeze in a throttle we should still be running the motor yeah we are so uh now so if if i just plug the evse back in

00:09:36

It will turn on the evse uh but the charger will not restart at this stage probably needs a can command to do that so i'm going to plug out the evse i'm going to just turn off see my little switch here it's going to turn off the power to the pdm so obviously with the power off the dc dc uh converter drops out

00:10:03

I'm going to turn that back on and i'm going to throw in the evse again and you'll hear the click in the uh in the pdm and both the dc dc and the charger come right up um there's no issues there like it's not a timing sensitive kind of a thing from what i can tell it will be interesting tester ons so if i plug out evse again

00:10:33

Turn off the pdm so let's see what happens if i with a few seconds uh turn the pdm back on and just wait okay so there's the dc dc came back up now if i plug in evse yeah pdm's gonna start up there it is so there's no there's no timing issues um

00:11:01

Nothing of that nature that we need to worry about so that's it folks just a quick update with our 6.6 kilowatt pdm here complete leaf stack uh working um doing what it needs to do i'm going to go ahead and clean up the software in the uh in the vcu so that we've uh we can set things with it and select um

00:11:34

Select the leaf um pdm as our charger be able to set powers and limits and stuff and uh then we can um explore further like hooking up to demo and stuff like that to it but uh yeah that's it nothing spectacular it doesn't need any high voltage interlocks relays any of that stuff at all it absolutely does not care about any of

00:12:04

Those so um yes so uh usual folks don't forget to dislike do not share do not subscribe do not support me on patreon or paypal or any of that crap and whatever you do do not visit the links in the description where you could buy the zombivert or vcu or indeed download the code for it and

00:12:38

Then make your own one and then i get nothing and oh no yeah no don't do that that's that's stupid um so uh right uh i'm really confused today so from everyone here at evbmw including the pdm the land yacht

00:13:04

Gomcat myself and the kia ccs soccer um i will wish you happy leafing

|}
====ZombieVerter VCU V1 Part 3====

<youtube>https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4</youtube>

{| role="presentation" class="wikitable mw-collapsible mw-collapsed"
| Highlights
|-
|
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=38s 00:38]''' Intro/Recap of part 2 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=64s 01:04]''' Description of 2018 Nissan Leaf components used in the video 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=227s 03:47]''' VCU, wiring harness, 12V battery, ISA shunt, contactors 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=426s 07:06]''' 12V battery - negative to chassis ground with fuse, and ground to VCU pin 55 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=472s 07:52]''' 12V battery - positive to PDM positive terminal and distribution block 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=522s 08:42]''' 12V battery - permanent fused +12v from PDM positive terminal to inverter and PDM 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=554s 09:14]''' 12V battery - permanent fused +12v to vcu, relay controlled by VCU for switched +12v to inverter and PDM 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=641s 10:41]''' 12V battery - permanent fused +12v to contactor coil positives 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=657s 10:57]''' 12V battery - permanent fused +12v to switch to provide things like T15 on signal to VCU 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=762s 12:42]''' Other end of permanent 12v feed to inverter and PDM connections 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=803s 13:23]''' Other end of switched +12v feed to inverter and PDM connections 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=816s 13:36]''' Other end of switched 12v ground connection 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=838s 13:52]''' Twisted pair wires from EV CAN CAN EXT 2 High (pin 28) and CAN EXT 2 Low (pin 27) to inverter 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=946s 15:46]''' To use the PDM for charging, wire control pilot (CP) and plug present (PP) from PDM to charge socket 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=989s 16:29]''' High voltage setup and controlling it with the VCU 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=1028s 17:08]''' Positive and precharge contactors (only 2 for the test rig - usually would have a negative contactor as well) 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=1060s 17:40]''' High voltage positive and negative junction. The ISA shunt connected between negative and PDM to distribute high voltage negative to the components 

'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=1093s 18:13]''' V1 ISA shunt connection to PDM after the contactors/precharge system to monitor high voltage applied to the drivetrain 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=1131s 18:51]''' Contactor control using negative side connections via VCU (very brief description) 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=1315s 21:55]''' Leaf PDM Internals, starting with high voltage connections 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=1388s 23:08]''' Leaf PDM Internals, single phase AC charging connections 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=1438s 23:49]''' CCS type 2 socket connections 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=1490s 24:50]''' Gome Cat comes in to say hello 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=1545s 25:45]''' Control switches. +12v, forward input, terminal 15 input, start input, high voltage request input. 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=1584s 26:24]''' Step 1 is close switch providing +12v to the forward input and T15 connections to enable "ignition on" mode 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=1605s 26:45]''' Step 2 is toggle start input to activate precharge, closing of main contactor, and inverter main relay (assuming all conditions are met) 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=1645s 27:25]''' Example throttle from mid 2000s BMW. Two channel hall effect sensor 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=1726s 28:46]''' Charging description when plugging in charger cable 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=1771s 29:31]''' Throttle Calibration using spot values for '''pot''' and '''pot2''' in auto refresh mode while pressing the pedal across it's range, noting the min/max and recording the min+10 for '''potmin''', and max-10 for '''potmax''' for each pot under parameters. Also select dual channel '''potmode''' if using two channels (will not work in single channel mode with 2 channels wired up) 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=2257s 37:37]''' Running the motor 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=2407s 40:07]''' Checking status, observing parameters 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=2864s 47:44]''' Problems/gotchas - '''PRECHARGE''' error (no high voltage supply, '''udc''' not > '''udcsw''' within 5s) 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=3016s 50:16]''' Problems/gotchas - too high '''udcmin''' setting and no motor spin, '''potum''' will not go positive 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=3239s 53:59]''' Problems/gotchas - too low '''udcmax''' (max voltage to allow regen) - motor spins without slowing when throttle released 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=3373s 56:13]''' Explanation of '''udclim''' as redundant cutoff voltage to shut off contactors 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=3400s 56:40]''' Explanation of '''idcmax''' and '''idcmin''' current limits 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=3420s 57:00]''' Explanation of '''tmphsmax''' heatsink max temp too low, and min setting allowed of 50C 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=3548s 59:08]''' Problems/gotchas - '''throtmax''' too low, no motor spin 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=3706s 1:01:46]''' Charging example using '''Leaf_PDM''' - seems incomplete, see below 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=3780s 1:03:00]''' Wifi Connection to the VCU and upgrading firmware 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=3983s 1:06:23]''' Resolve update fail/hang - activity led stops flashing, no data on web interface (power cycle) 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=4225s 1:10:25]''' Gome cat in it's natural habitat 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=4399s 1:13:19]''' Causes of wifi issues 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=4609s 1:16:49]''' Initializing the ISA shunt 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=4855s 1:20:55]''' Demonstrating regen 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=4931s 1:22:11]''' Automatic charge start/stop using Leaf PDM 
'''[https://youtu.be/oPb4vMO17B4?t=5043s 1:24:03]''' Epilogue 
|}
{| role="presentation" class="wikitable mw-collapsible mw-collapsed"
| Transcript
|-
|
hello folks and welcome to another uber boring episode in our vcu series this will be part three and i would strongly encourage anyone uh that is just joining us in this part to go back and view the preceding two parts and i will put a link in the description to them so

00:00:37

In part two we went painstakingly through a lot of the theory of our vcu and showed you all the wiring connections and explain the configuration menus on our web interface today we're going to get away from the theory we're going to jump into some practice for you so what we have here in front of us is essentially a complete what's called stack from a

00:01:11

2018 nissan leaf so there's three parts to this it was called the pdm up the top here so this has a charger the six kilowatt charger and the dc to dc converter underneath it is our inverter this is the 110 kilowatt version and finally down here is our em57 electric motor now this setup i have been using here for some

00:01:43

Experiments and additionally uh this is the system and i'm going to be using in our future conversion of our mitsubishi l 200 truck but before i break this down uh and pack it away for the for that future project it does make an excellent platform for us to basically show you in again rather excruciating detail how our

00:02:17

Vcu wires up to a system like this now as we explained the vcu can control a variety of these kind of systems but this is just one example that we happen to have on the floor here in a reasonably ready to go fashion and so yeah what we want to do is we want to show you the basics of how this wires up and how we can run it we'll show you

00:02:49

Things like software updating and throttle calibration procedures as well during this session so point of using systems like this really is so that we don't have to reinvent the wheel we can get these nowadays for quite reasonable monies and they are

00:03:19

Engineered for automotive applications because that's what it is nissan did a lot of the hard work for us so we can kind of um jump in on that and use our vcu to enable components like this to be used in ev conversion projects so let's jump straight in and have a look at our vcu alrighty so here is our vcu it's in its aluminium

00:03:52

Enclosure and we have our connector attached as per our wiring pin descriptions from the last video we come down here to this bundle then it explodes out into this bit of a mess job here but in reality if we take this slow and steady uh we take each wire individually it's it's actually not that difficult at all here we've just got a 12 volt battery which is a normal car battery that

00:04:27

Supplies low voltage power to our systems here and of course to our vcu got some more wires and stuff going on here at the back this is where we connect into our nissan leaf wiring and i'll go through all that with you uh shortly and here we have our isa shunt now this one looks a little different to the one we showed you in the last video it's a slightly older model but

00:04:59

Works the exact same way and down here then we have some contactors uh for controlling the high voltage you can see here that i've got got a white which would be our high voltage battery positive and a black which would be our high voltage battery negative so a bit of high voltage wiring going on and a bit of low voltage wiring going on

00:05:26

And we connect in there to our vcu so let's start uh with our 12 volt battery here as we would in a traditional i suppose wiring diagram for a car and we'll break it down as easily as i can for you one of the things folks always ask me about is to have a wiring diagram for this or a wiring diagram for that and that

00:05:55

The answer to that is no i do not because there's two reasons for that one is i can't do everything because if i do one wiring diagram and i want three more and it just tends to snowball a little bit and the second thing is i'm absolutely crap at drawing and i did actually try this with some of the tesla stuff to draw diagrams and then i tried to get a few uh professional people to

00:06:27

Convert those squiggles into actual you know electrical drawings for me but that didn't work out either it ended up costing me quite a bit of money so unfortunately folks that is not my forte so we're going to have to go with what i can do here and that is to describe to you this setup um and it's actually once we get into it you'll see that it's uh it's actually a lot simpler than something that you would do even with

00:06:59

The likes of a standalone ecu for an internal combustion engine alrighty so here we are most basic place to start is our 12 volt battery negative terminal as in any system this battery negative terminal i just have it connected via a fuse to this cable and it's going to chassis or ground or just bolted on to any convenient part of our

00:07:35

System here i then have this black wire here which is again just attached to a chassis ground here and this is our ground connection to our vcu coming across here we have our 12 volt battery positive and this wire is a ticker wire again the same as this one be a main feed we come up onto our pdm this is our pdm

00:08:07

Battery positive and so this is our 12-volt battery positive and anything on the casing is our 12-volt battery ground here you'll see i've got two fuse holders which just uh pop the cover off that just little standard i think five amp just blade fuses in them a lot of this is just for convenience here on the testing rig

00:08:35

So one of these has a little multi-block on it and it goes off to various places and i'll explain that in a minute we'll take the simpler one first this one i just has a single wire and i'll bring you around the side in a sec but where this single wire goes is this just supplies permanent 12 volt power both to our pdm and to our inverter so this fuse here just curls around with a bit

00:09:06

Of wire and gives a 12 volt positive feed inverter and pdm simple as that this wire here breaks off into a little junction block so let's take each one of these individually this one here is our 12 volt positive feed to our vcu so we just come from the battery through a little fuse this gives our vcu permanent uh 12 volt power this wire here

00:09:44

Goes down to just a standard four pin automotive relay and this relay is controlled by the vcu and it lets it switch on and off the switched 12 volt feed to again our inverter and pdm so when we're waking up our system be it for charging or for driving the vcu through a low side switch on the coil here can energize this relay and apply the switched power to our inverter and pdm

00:10:25

Those are the only power feeds that we need for our system here so we take one more wire sorry two more wires off this this wire here is going around the back and is supplying our contactor positive feed so the 12 volt permanent dc supply to our contactor coil

00:10:54

Positives and finally this guy here goes up to a switch that you will just see crudely screwed onto the corner of the bench here and we use that first for supplying our digital 12 volt signals to the vcu so things like terminal 15 on so our ignition switch on and our start signal so our momentary switch to the start signal and i'll run through

00:11:27

That again in a bit more detail but these are our basic 12-volt feeds here from our battery to our pdm and via just one standard four pin relay for the switched feeds and just via a fuse for the permanent feeds and folks that is that is as complex

00:11:53

As we get here with a system like this in terms of just supplying power to it the vcu via the white wire here controls the low side of the relay coil so what i'm going to do next i'm going to switch the camera around and we'll bring you around this side here and show you uh where for example our 12-volt permanent feed and our 12-volt switched feed from the relay enter we show you where we connect the can bus to

00:12:27

Our system here so standby stand by for action all righty so we're back around to this side we've got a bunch of wiring and some connector blocks here so let's start with the most basic one this is just our permanent 12-volt feed naturally it's mixed up with all of these guys and it literally just goes to this three-way terminal block

00:13:03

And goes off to our two permanent 12 volt feeds again one to our inverter and one to our pdm so that's it secondly then we have our switched uh feed let me find it here there's our switched feet here we are this is our switch feed from our little four pin relay and you'll see that that goes off to the two switched

00:13:32

Uh 12 volt feeds we have this black wire which is a ground and it just goes to this brown wire here and this goes all the way back around and just connects to somewhere convenient on the casing and that folks is our lot for supplying 12 volts and ground to our inverter and pdm now the big question is how do we control all this must be super

00:14:02

Complicated and it is there's a whole two wires there's two more wires that we have to connect now let me just disconnect these because this is a little monitoring system for can that i use here but you guys don't need to worry about any of that because it's uh it's not um

00:14:26

It's not got anything to do with what we're trying to do here so let me get rid of that so what we've got is from our vcu we have a twisted pair here which we call ev can there's two wires in this so this is our can external too high and can external too low and they're in our literally in our

00:14:52

Just two wires just a third wire in that but we don't you use it as just a handy bit of twisted pair that i happen to have and we literally just connect can low here from our vcu to canlow on our our original wiring harness and kanhi from our vcu the can high on our wiring harness and folks that's it congratulations we're now driving a nissan leaf

00:15:23

Uh drive train courtesy of our vcu so we need to give it permanent 12 volts we need to give it switch 12 volts we need to give it a ground we we need to give it can high and con low from our vcu and that is it if you want to get super complex and we'd like to use the pdm for charging then unfortunately there are two more

00:15:52

Wires that you need to connect we connect those to our charging socket so in this case with our control pilot or cp this goes from here back to our charging socket which we will show you later on and our pp or plug present wire from here back to our charging socket and that's it congratulations you're now using motor

00:16:19

Inverter and pdm with our vcu alrighty so next thing we need to look at is our whole high voltage setup and how we control that with our vcu now this is not intended to be any kind of an educational segment for people on how to handle hive voltage because i ain't going to touch that but what we will do

00:16:53

Is show you for our very basic test rig here how the um how the uh how we do it here now as you'll see here we've got these two black devices here these are our contactors normally in a high voltage system like this we would have three of them we'd have one on our net negative side one on our positive side and one for

00:17:23

Pre-charge now in the case of my simplistic little test rig here i'm just using two a main positive contactor and a pre-charged contactor and that's because this is only a temporary set up here so if we look up here on the bench we have our high voltage battery positive and our high voltage battery negative

00:17:49

We have our isa shunt connected here to the high voltage battery negative then we come out of this with a cable that we bring to our pdm and that basically distributes high voltage negative to our charger inverter dc dc and whatever it is that we would be using this little wire here which comes out of the the v1 monitoring connection on our um

00:18:22

Isa shunt and that connects into pdm to the battery positive after the pre-charging system so we connect our monitoring tab after our contactors and pre-charge so that this guy is monitoring the high voltage that we're applying to our i guess drive train uh would be the would be the uh the shortened term so contactor control

00:18:53

Is entirely via our vcu and what we do is again let me just leave it here a little bit and you'll see i have a red wire that i spoke about earlier this is just bringing permanent 12 volts from our fuse from our 12 volt battery positive into the coil positive terminals of our two contactors and the two black wires then which you'll see here are being switched via

00:19:24

Direct relevant pins on the vcu so it being uh pre-charge low side switch and main contactor low side switch that's why we have a permanent 12 volts on our coil positives and we switch on the blacks or negative side of our coils we just have a crude little set up here then with our pre-charge and our main contactors just using a heater element here for that purpose and finally we come out of this wire

00:19:59

Here which is our high voltage positive after our pre-charging and contactors and go into our pdm so what i'll do is i'll pop the cover off the pdm here and you can have a look in here and it'll hopefully make a little bit more sense of where we're connecting things i'm not going to go into a huge amount of detail on this because like i said that is a topic entirely by itself uh one thing i will just note with a

00:20:29

Little four core wire here going into our isa shunt so just to remind folks the isa shunt is our battery monitoring system and it basically informs the vcu about voltage current temperature amp hours kilowatt hours and all that good stuff and it does that via can so all we need to do we've got a red and a black wire here which is a permanent 12-volt supply and we have a green and a yellow wire

00:21:02

Which is our can high and can low and we connect those to the relevant uh can external too low and can external two high pins of our vcu and indeed they simply then come back down so we're linking our can here uh from our drivetrain with our can from our shunt so literally that is it uh from a

00:21:33

Wiring up of a drivetrain and our shunt here so i'll go ahead and pop the lid off the pdm and we'll show you where the wires connect here just to kind of familiarize volks a little bit more with that and finally then we'll show you where our charging socket connects up all right just pop the lid off the uh pdm here there we go okay

00:22:09

So let's get you in a little bit neater here you'll hopefully be able to see some of the wiring so you'll see here that i've marked these two copper terminals that are red and a blue i put a plus and a minus there beside them those are our main high voltage battery connection terminals

00:22:31

So this is where we come in after our contactors with our pre-charge in our main contactor this is our battery negative which would normally be going to a battery negative contactor and then heading off towards our battery you'll notice that there's two wires on the positive the reason for that is one of them brings in our

00:22:58

High voltage positive and the other one is our little monitoring wire here from our isa shunt so super simple i'm going to talk to a little bit about how we connect up ac charging to the pdm as well just because we're here it'd be a shame not to so i just got a piece of tree core cable here this is a single phase six kilowatt charger so green and yellow earth are ground brown is our live or hot and blue is our

00:23:31

Neutral so we connect those to connect our live and our neutral to our relevant terminals here in the pdm and we just connect earth or ground to our chassis a convenient location on our chassis and in this little mess job here you see this is where our single phase ac wiring connects to our charging socket this is a ccs type 2 from some kia or hyundai car

00:24:06

So we've got our single phase ac which is our tree terminals here we've got our pp and cp which we showed you earlier on the red and the black wires just going straight to the pdm and that is our setup folks between charging supplying 12 volts got our vcu up there coming down into our wiring bundle

00:24:35

Finally uh over to our pdm all right so we've got two more things to show you before we can get into the real phone first is this little three-way switch here what is this doing for us well oh look gomcat it's you gomcat has came in to say hello to us folks i know there had been some concern about

00:25:03

The golem cat's well-being in recent videos and i appreciate that as does he but as you can see he is in fighting form and ready to get back to work hacking oem components for us isn't that correct gomcat now gom i'm trying to explain the vcu to the folks here so why don't you head back inside get some sleep and i'll catch up with you later on

00:25:36

Now here we go sorry about that folks gome just reappeared now what is this well these are just light switches like you'd have in a domestic house so turn the light on turn the light off i'm just using them in this case to control some of our digital signals to our vcu got a red wire here just a 12 volt

00:26:03

Battery positive i've got some wires here from our vcu of our forward input i have our terminal 15 input i have our start input and have our high voltage request input so in this case when we turn on the fourth switch we just apply 12 volts to our forward input and to our terminal 15 input thus telling our vcu that we would like

00:26:36

The motor to turn forward we are on an ignition on position now so we're getting ready to crank up and finally in our second little switch here thank you gom normally what i do with this is just give it a flick which should be akin to giving it a flick of a start um momentary terminal at that point assuming conditions are met the vcu will initiate pre-charge

00:27:07

If pre-charge is successful we'll close the main contactor turn on our inverter relay and we're ready to go for a drive again when we come back home switch off turn our key off and the system shuts down and in order to tell the vcu how much torque that we would like from our motor we of course need a throttle pedal this is a

00:27:36

Throttle pedal from kind of mid-2000s bmw it's on various models this is the one that i generally use because you know kind of cheap easy to get at my local scrap yard and they fit most of the cars that i'm working with so this is the two channel hall effect pedal it has a five volts ground and two signal channels

00:28:03

That we connect to our vcu so when we push our pedal up and down we get two uh variable voltages generated by the pedal which our vcu can then interpret as a driver torque request we'll turn that into the relevant can messages and transmit them to our inverter and uh with whatever kind of throttle ramps and limits that we will have set

00:28:38

In the vcu also the vcu will detect things like if we're parked and we want to do something like charge the car then when we insert our charging plug like so it would assuming conditions are met so we're not in drive mode etc

00:29:06

Initiate pre-charge pre-charge is successful bring up the power to the pdm lock out the inverter from drive mode and commence charging based upon a combination of the parameters that it gets from our charging cable and those set within the vcu okay so we've got ourselves a throttle pedal we have that connected to our vcu

00:29:42

So one of the first things that we're going to want to do once we get our vcu hooked up and has power to it is calibrate our throttle so in this uh segment we're going to describe how to do that so if you want to know the details of the connections for connecting your throttle pedal then please see part two of this video series but just to briefly recap there are four connections throttle plus five volts throttle ground

00:30:13

Throttle channel one and throttle channel two this vcu allows for the use of either single throttle channel or dual throttle channel and has got error checking both between the dual channels and for throttle out of range errors so let's start

00:30:38

By going down to spot values we'll scroll down here until we can see our parameters for pot and part two and we just hit our refresh button here just to make sure that those values are current so pot is reading 219 digits and part 2 at 438 digits and those are just the raw values being received from the analog to digital converter in the

00:31:11

Stm32 and are typical of what you will see on one of these hall effect throttle pedals in that one channel is usually about half of what the other one uh reads for safety purposes so the first thing to do is we're going to select auto and click refresh once and what that will do is it will continuously refresh all of the parameters and indeed you'll

00:31:41

See the little change in the pot values there just due to noise now i'm going to move the throttle pedal here just over its full range and you guys keep an eye on those values you'll see that they're slowly increasing until we reach full throttle and then they'll decrease as we come back off our throttle and that shows us uh that we have a for

00:32:08

A functioning uh throttle pedal so let's go ahead and untick auto and just click refresh once more just to go back to normal so what we're going to do now is we're going to note the values of pot and pot 2 and we're going to add 10 roughly 10 points to them so let's say pot let's call it 220 for a round figure so let's say pot uh value the pot min value that we're going to enter will be 230

00:32:43

And let's say that part two just again for the sake of a round figure is 440 so let's call that 450. so 230 and 450 we're going to go to parameters we'll scroll down here we have pot min which is currently at 200 220. so we're going to set that and i always forget this i just always do let me go back again if i actually made

00:33:20

A note it would be a good thing wouldn't it apologies folks just a bit of life getting in the way there so we said pot 220 and we're going to add 10 to make it 230. so back to parameters we'll go to put min and set that value to 230 2 3 0 and press enter always press enter we change our value

00:33:52

Back to our spot values again part two let's say 440 so we said 450. so back to parameters and we say pot 2 min 450 4 5 0 press enter go back to our spot values and back to our pot there are two pots in the middle we're going to go back to oh no sorry we're not we're not going to go back to auto

00:34:26

What i'm going to do off camera now is just press the throttle pedal all the way down holding it at full throttle and press refresh once now we now have our max value so let's call it 1250 for part two for pot max and let's take 10 points off that or we'll call that 12

00:34:50

42. let's call that 1242 for pot max 12 42. one two four two and press enter for pot max we'll come down here now we go to part two where is it gone here it is so two five zero seven so let's call it two five zero zero back again for part two max two five zero zero

00:35:30

Enter and don't forget now we want to come up here and our next thing we want to do is ensure that we're in because we have our two channels selected we want to ensure that we have a dual channel throttle selected here of our yeah okay let me rephrase that because we have our two channels wired up and calibrated and ensure that we've our dual

00:35:56

Channel selected i'll come back in one second to you for single mode i want to check that our messages have got set okay we're going to come up to our parameters we're going to click save parameters to flash as we know what to do then from our last video come back down to our messages and we say parameters stored and we have our 32-bit crc value

00:36:21

Now there's a little gotcha here in this about using single throttle mode so our little menu here under pot mode has got dual channel and and single obviously you know i would recommend that you use dual channel because again i think most throttle pedals have that facility but if there's a reason just for simplicity or a bench test or

00:36:49

Some particular legacy system that you're trying to work with you can indeed select single channel now the catch is that if you just select single channel but you have wired up a dual channel and may be calibrated or even not calibrated it it will not work so if you are using single channel mode only wire up one throttle channel that's super

00:37:18

Important folks okay so we'll go back to our dual channel here for the purposes of running our system on the bench okay so now that we're set up here let's go ahead and uh run our motor so we've got our high voltage turned on it's being supplied from the land yachts to demo port at the

00:37:50

Minute because i no longer have a kind of a bench battery so that's giving us about 390 volts into our system here so i'm going to go ahead now and we're going to start up and we're going to just run the motor just to get our feet wet here pun intended because it is rather a wet day today so quite simply i'm going to turn our ignition switch on

00:38:17

So that's turning the key to the on position i'm just going to flick this middle one here which is the equivalent of just turning the key against the spring to the start position you'll hear a few clicks that's our uh pre-charging system working and our main contactor closing and our little relay kicking in here that's applying the switch to 12 volt power to our pdm and um

00:38:48

Inverter if i take our freshly calibrated throttle pedal and press it our motor spins up [Music] and you're going to see that we have regen and that is very much thanks to the efforts of johannes a little bit more tuning to do on it but just thought i would introduce that fact to you

00:39:24

So that is a very simple test but we will go through now we're going to go through two things one would be just some of the tuning parameters that we can do on the web interface and secondly we will do some of the gotchas or the catches that can affect people and stop them getting to this um for spin of the motor situations that are turned off then we just turn our key

00:39:56

Back to the off position and everything shuts down just like that all right so we're here now with our web interface and we would be going for what could be i guess a force test run of our drive train here on the bench we've got our high voltage available we've got our 12 volts available and we're communicating away happily so what i would first of all do is select

00:40:31

Auto and click refresh here so that we're constantly updating the parameters here so what's the first one that we should look at well the first one is always op mode up mode is currently off which is perfectly fine next one is last error we're saying none so there's no errors we will generate some for you fairly soon but at the minute we're in a

00:41:01

Non-error situation status udc below udcsw and what the vcu is basically telling us here is that the voltage that it's measuring with the isa shunt currently about 7 volts is below the set point that we specified in udc sw which is the voltage at which we would like the

00:41:32

Pre-charge to finish and the main contactor to close so that's perfectly fine to have that error here or status i should say so let's scroll down here now the web page will jump a little bit here when we're moving it like this with auto on and so we have inverter is leaf gen 1 which is perfectly fine and vehicle is set to classic now

00:42:13

The next one we want to look at is t15 status which is our ignition on status it's currently off so we're going to flick that to on so now we have t15 status on so we've now confirmed that the vcu has received the message that we would like to start up so we're going to go back up just to the top of spot values here

00:42:46

And i'm going to hit my start button now you see here that op mode has changed to run last error is still known and status is now known which means that we have no errors and no status problems we're seeing the full 390 volts available here in udc now at the minute we're not drawing any power we're not drawing any current as far as our shunt

00:43:23

Is concerned but that should change uh fairly soon when our dc-dc converter in the pdm starts up and if we come down here we will see our inverter udc is reading slightly differently but that's perfectly fine and it is reading the voltage that the inverter is measuring and transmitting that via can to us so that means we've got good communication with our

00:43:59

Inverter now if i take my throttle pedal here now and just spin up the motor we're going to see some other things changing here ah apologies about my um power and current readings here that's something i need to fix but you'll see here that we're getting speed which is the motor rpm which we can hear

00:44:30

And most importantly if we come down here we look at our pot nom let's see that value change as i press the throttle [Music] and indeed as the vcu calculates the regen that we want to see and you'll see the torque value changing from positive torque

00:44:59

And negative torque values for regen and of course the pot for our analog throttle changes as well there all right folks so apologies for that um i had a this particular branch of the software that i'm working on at the minute had a little bug in it that wasn't giving us our uh current sun powers and all that so we've now got that fixed

00:45:33

So we're on auto refresh here so we can turn our ignition on hit our start and see that our voltage comes up let me just scroll up here a little bit so hopefully you should be able to see power and current there as soon as the dc dc starts up in the pdm there it goes so we got about 150 watts of power consumption there from our pdm

00:46:02

And if i press my throttle now see a little bit of regen went in there [Music] there we go so that's our power red from the isa shunt and current red from the isa shunt also we get kilowatt hours and amp hours from our isa shunt and should be obvious there we have speed

00:46:42

Which is our motor rpm uh from our isa shunt or not from our essay sean from our uh can from the inverter so this is what a typical running system at least for our leaf um stack here would typically look like um as i said we've gone through our pot and our platinum and all of these kind of things here other things you'll see would be things like heatsink

00:47:14

Temperature motor temperature auxiliary temperature comes from the isa shunt um the u-ox is the 12-volt voltage measured at the vcu a few other things like that but that's if we come down here a little bit now we'll see that our forward direction is selected on it's very important to have a direction selected because if we do not have a direction selected then we do not drive anywhere so what i'm going to do now

00:47:46

Is i'm going to just take automatic refresh off i'm going to do a few things here that can cause us to get no rotation of our motor so i'm going to switch off our ignition so where our contactors drop off and just off camera i'm going to just do something here

00:48:13

And we're going to go back up our main spot values function here go back on to automatic refresh and we should yeah there we go we're in off mode let me bring you up here and we're again very same situation now i'm going to press our ignition switch on i'm going to flick my start we hear our pre-charge come in we go to pre-charge up mode but now the

00:48:45

Pre-charge contactor has dropped out and my last error has changed to pre-charge so what that means is that i have no high voltage available and what i did there was i just disconnected the high voltage supply to our test setup here so we just want to turn our ignition switch back off we'll fix the problem so basically

00:49:15

Re-enable our high vol volt voltage supply put our ignition switch on and flick start and we go back we're into run mode and uh if i press the throttle there we go we're back running again and uh probably starting to draw power yeah from our pdm so this is what will happen uh if we get a pre-charge error the

00:49:49

Pre-charge timeout takes five seconds so what that basically means is that if the voltage we read here on udc does not exceed the value in udcsw within 30 seconds we basically time out on a pre-charge error so it's a common little gotcha so let's see what else could cause us to have a problem but will be a little bit

00:50:21

More harder to find so let's come up into our um [Music] i guess everything is unfortunately dumped under throttle here i really do need to break these guys up a little bit better um so there's some parameters here

00:50:44

Uh one of them is udc min udc max in udc lim so what do they mean and what do they do well udc min is the minimum voltage at which we will allow the inverter to generate torque now we've got it set to uh 280 volts here but let's say that that for some weird reason that this was to be set to a rather high

00:51:14

Value let's say 480 volts what would the result of that be let's go and have a look so back down to our spot values and go back on to automatic refresh and we'll go back and we'll put our our ignition was ah we were on all the time so anyway okay so let's go back for ignition on and go for start now we go into run mode perfectly fine

00:51:51

390 volts come along oh dear what's going on we're in run mode and we're pushing the throttle but there's nothing going on now how do we diagnose this well we come down here we look at our pot nom value when i press the throttle so i'm going to come in here

00:52:21

There's my throttle i'm going to press it all the way down and my pot knob just does not go positive you see it will go negative because i would still be allowed to regen because that's under a different parameter so it might throttle all the way to the floor now potnom is zero if i release it and go back to five percent

00:52:50

Because that's my commanded regen if i look at my torque command here it's currently zero push my throttle all the way to the floor still zero now we know because we've obviously changed that udc min value to a voltage that is above the value that we have available so udc min

00:53:22

Is basically saying to us we're saying that unless we have a minimum 480 volts available to us we will not allow positive torque so let's go back and change that so here's our udc min we'll put this back to where it was at 280 volts so 280 volts now if i say udc max which is at 420 volts udc max is the

00:54:00

Maximum voltage on the battery measured by the isa shunt that i will permit regen torque to be commanded we've got 420 volts but let's say some naughty person came along and set that to 320 volts what effect will that have on us well let's find out let's go back to automatic back on to refresh

00:54:30

We put our ignition on we'll kick our start and as you can see we're in run mode udc is at 390. so let's give our throttle a little press and we can generate torque we can spin oh but look there's no regen our motor is just spinning down by itself it's as we can see there's our rpm there's our torque is currently zero but let's have a look at what our potnom

00:55:07

Says apotnom says zero we're not going to the negative five percent that we had previously because what we have said to our vcu now is if the measured battery voltage is above 320 volts do not create any regen torque so let me just do that one more time i'll push to throttle see a little bit of platinum goes positive but when i release the throttle

00:55:38

Then the motor is basically coasting to a stop here uh because we are not allowing any uh negative torque now so there's the workings of uh udc min and udc max let's go and reset these two uh sensible values so 400 sorry 400 420 volts enter

00:56:13

Udc lim is probably a little bit of a redundant parameter here is a kind of a backup to udc max and what we say is that if the voltage ever goes above udc lim we don't just zero out all the torque commands but we shut off all of our contactors so don't think there's any real need to demonstrate that idc max and idc min are our

00:56:44

Maximum torque idc max is the maximum positive current that will allow to be drawn from our battery and idc min is the maximum regen current that we will allow so tmphs max is our heatsink maximum temperature now currently i don't have any cooling on the inverter and the motor here but that's no big deal because we're just doing

00:57:15

Little tests but let's say that we were to have a cooling system failure and or this value was set to a rather stupid value let's say 10 degrees centigrade so if we set tmphs max to that let's see what that does for us let's go back to our spot values back to automatic and hit refresh we put our ignition switch on pre-charge and start

00:57:47

We're in run mode let's go ahead and press the throttle [Music] indeed we do generate torque so let's scroll down so tmphs is at 16 degrees centigrade here and we have specified a maximum i think of 10 unless i didn't actually set so i do seem to have myself a little bit of a problem there with that did i said oh i

00:58:32

Didn't set it i'm in a complete clown all right because minimum is 50 so i can't actually set this to any lower uh than 50 degrees so i kind of shot myself in the foot a little bit there so that's kind of self-correcting you shouldn't be able to do anything too silly with that um as i just discovered for myself by default it's set to 85 which is kind

00:59:06

Of the same value so the next two here that can cause us a problem are trotman and trotmax so let's switch off our system again here let's change trot max to oh i don't know let's set it to zero what's going to happen if we set trot max to zero and we go

00:59:30

Back to our spot values automatic rash key on start up and let's press our throttle and see what happens we're in run mode we've got uh when the last hour was pre-charged that's fine i'm pressing the throttle oh no oh no there's nothing happening so again how to diagnose any of these

01:00:03

Problems we come down and we look at our pot nom now our pot nom is at minus five percent because we are allowing negative torque here if i floor the truck the throttle we go to zero but if i go up to my torque my torque command is still zero i'm not commanding any torque here even though i'm as you can see our pot values are hitting max

01:00:32

Our pot num is only at zero so we're not allowing any positive torque generation so those are some of the little gotchas uh that can stop something from running even though we are in strictly speaking run mode and do not seem to have any errors going on here this is probably something that we could improve upon at some point in the future so

01:01:05

Again obviously these can be set to you know saying values here uh for limiting during testing and things like that they're quite useful for so again now we're back to 100 percent and we're indeed uh running our motor again so a couple of little uh pointers there for you folks that can easily uh cause a problem to people that

01:01:36

Wouldn't be familiar with how the uh system works here all right so next thing that we were just going to demonstrate with our little test rig here is going to be charging so in the case here we have several different charger interfaces that we can use uh we have none itrelim demo and leaf pdm so what does that mean i'm not going to

01:02:07

Go into as much detail as i did in the last video here but it basically means that the vcu will use the i tree limb its internal chademo interface or the nissan leaf pdm for handling battery charging and communicating with things like the charging point evse so in our case here we're going to

01:02:34

Select leaf pdm on our menu we leave power set point where it is at the minute leave idc term and the rest of that stuff where it is charge modes i think we just put into off for the minute we can put ah actually sorry i tell a lie because we're using the need to be an external cat um

01:02:57

So okay folks so one of the things i want to deal with in this uh segment is problems that people have with connecting the wi-fi maintaining connection to it and upgrading firmware so as you'll see here

01:03:27

We've got our vcu powered up and our computer is connected to it in fact the computer is not actually connected to the wireless access point that the vcu is creating you have a choice in that you can configure the wi-fi module to create its own ssid and pass phrase and then connect to it

01:03:57

Which is what we do when we're in the cars and out and about and stuff like that but when i'm here at home what i find works a whole lot better particularly during the summer season here because it's mostly holiday homes here and during the summer season everyone's got wi-fi everyone's got phones everyone's watching netflix and all that kind of thing

01:04:25

And it was one day here in particular that i was literally here and for three solid hours i could not get this computer to connect to this vcu it did not matter what i did sometimes it would connect sometimes it would drop the connection sometimes the wi-fi would drop out uh sometimes you could try to do a software update and get halfway through it and you get home all kinds of

01:04:55

Problems but here now today you know i've been trying for the last few days here to actually generate this on camera for you folks so that i could show you what actually happens on how to circumvent it but here it's just gonna blast away it's just not gonna have a problem at all uh so that's us updating connected just through the home

01:05:25

Wi-fi network here but we can do the same thing so let me just connect the computer here directly to the um access point that the vcu is creating that's it there connect it's connected it just it even connects so quickly you

01:05:49

Just know you're going to be fine there it is update um here's our bin file and update and it'll just do it i've tried all kinds of tricks here to try to get it to fail like cutting off the power in the middle of the update and stuff like that but it's just um don't tell me i managed to catch it but i seriously managed to get it to hang

01:06:21

Please tell me i did okay we're in a hang [Music] yes baby so how do i know that well the first thing is that my activity led here has stopped flashing and if i were to refresh my web page here now i will get the web page back but there

01:06:46

Will be no data so there's no parameters here so i'm delighted with this i was unbelievable all right so first thing to do here if this occurs is cut the power count to five and put the power back on so let's try that and see if that has any effect and it does damn it so we've just rebooted here and we

01:07:20

Probably even maintained the connection let me just recycle that yeah there it is we're basically back on and we've got our parameters back so that's again connecting directly so we're now connected direct directly to the uh vcu now one of the things that happens um is that and i've seen some folks commenting about about this on the forum that

01:07:53

It you know it sometimes works better if i have the computer near to the um vcu or if i have to cover off the vcu and that now i can go ahead uh and i'm going to just whip this little screw out i've just got a screw in here to stop this falling after uh workbench so i'm going ahead i'm going to pull that screw out and i'll pop the cover back on here and we'll um we'll basically do the same

01:08:19

Thing again here because i want to just kind of demonstrate what if i can't show you what does cause it at least i can show you what does not um and as it stands now here i can walk out all the way down to my front gate which is about 20 or 25 meters and i can do software updates over the direct

01:08:50

Wi-fi connection here so all right that's our lid on the box i'll just put something on top of it just to uh you know really make sure that it's sitting down um and let's do a software update here and see if we can get it to screw up and see if it's screwed up

01:09:26

So we're going to hit our refresh and that's interesting how we actually got it to screw up let's pop the cover up yes we did we actually got it to hang so let's power off count five power back on again and we're back there we are we have connectivity

01:10:15

So let's see what else we can do here here we see the gomcat in its natural habitat we must be cautious or it could attack if provoked the diet of the wild gone cat is premium cat food of very expensive sort as we can see a token effort was made to cover it before claiming the main seat in the

01:11:08

Workshop the gomcat must now not be disturbed at any point or again it may attack we will retreat to a safe distance all right so i brought the computer out to the workbench here uh we're just gonna we're just a bit away from it and we got a concrete wall between us and the vcu here and rather annoyingly it's just going to update of course it is

01:11:44

Now it still seems to prefer to uh need a reset here when we do this um when we do this method which is kind of strange um yeah it's going to need a reset again i think so let me just do that all right so just reset the battery there let me just do another see what we get this time or have we dropped the connection no we haven't rather annoyingly

01:12:16

So there it is um so let's stream a little bit of live data even here from this team try to put it under a bit of stress um just go for automatic go for refresh and it's uh yeah it's basically streaming and we're just connected here i'm out in the you know just out in the workshop area here the golem is keeping an eye on things and where our

01:12:45

Vcu is inside here with the lid on and a bottle of cutting compound sitting on top of it um so this is the super weird thing about this um is that we're still streaming yes we are

01:13:22

So you might reasonably ask what is the cause of this particular problem and it's rather simple as i say if we're in a area that has particularly strong wi-fi signals or a lot of them uh the wi-fi bandwidth the 2.4 gigahertz bandwidth can become very constrained and as i say i've seen that happen here i cannot generate it on the demand

01:13:56

Um but it first it first showed up here for me in around 2019 um and i can pretty much track it by when a lot of the holiday homes here are occupied so what i suspect that folks are seeing is that they're just in areas that have a lot of active wi-fi connections and it may not even be

01:14:25

Uh wi-fi because these days now there's a lot of these um area broadband services that are operating via wi-fi as well i know we have uh there's two particularly strong wi-fi networks here that just broadcast into every nook and cranny um of the building and they're one of these

01:14:56

Kind of wide area wi-fi networking type things and they definitely cause me problems uh but not as many problems as when neighbors houses are occupied and so forth my recommendation is if you're having this problem persistently then use the option of connecting your vcu to your own home uh wi-fi network

01:15:32

Uh because then at least you've got the benefit of the fact that you've got your own router helping to boost the signal to your laptop or desktop or whatever it is that you're trying to communicate to the vcu with so that's just a little bit of advice on that one folks um my apologies that i cannot generate this here i have tried uh like i said it's

01:16:01

Believe it or not it is just not something that you can generate by deliberately you know like cutting the power during a software update or resetting the stm32 during a software update or even uploading the wrong software onto it or something it's um i spent like i said i spent a good bit of time here and i even had some footage of this and all as i ended up doing was proving how freaking robust

01:16:31

That the uh system is and i know that as i say there are some folks struggling uh with just basic connectivity so that is about what i can do for you on that subject at this time okay folks so in this segment we're going to show you how to initialize your isa shunt uh using the web interface of the vcu so i'm at my little test set up here in

01:17:05

The office got my vcu got my shunt a little uh there's a little pp3 9 volt battery there just for demonstration and testing so we're going to assume that you've got a new shunt um so we've not initialized this so what does that mean well by default these shunts come from

01:17:32

The factory without um all of their features enabled and with the data format of the can message in a different way to what we want to see in our vcu so uh we now have on our firmware the ability to just do an initialization so i'm going to walk

01:17:58

You through that now so first thing that we want to do is come down to our communications um subsection you'll see isa mode now by default this should always be in normal but we're going to assume that we have a new um shunt here so we're going to change that to init we're then going to hit our commands

01:18:25

Button and go save parameters to flash and confirm that we have stored and we got a crc so now what we're going to do is we're going to power cycle both the vcu and the shunt now basically how you should have this wired up is that your sean 12 volt supply and your vcu 12 volt supply should be on

01:18:51

The same line so i'm just going to turn off my bench power supply just just give it a few seconds i'm going to power it back up now at this time we will be initializing our isa shunt let me just check that that's actually yeah there's our can messages i was just monitoring on another screen so we'll just go ahead now and uh refresh our

01:19:25

Web page sorry about the volkswag wagon engineers they're a bit angry we'll now change init back to normal go back to commands and save parameters to flash if we come down to spot values now and we do a quick refresh there we'll see we have uh 9.4 volts on our voltage one if we move this little tab over to

01:19:58

Voltage two click refresh yeah there it is on voltage two and just over onto voltage three yeah there it is on voltage tree as well we should have our temp aux reading to room temperature which is rather high this morning 23 so that is uh now how we set up our ice a shunt uh using the web interface and our vcu so there's no need for any

01:20:34

Other uh messing about uh this is something that i did rather silly of me to overlook uh but we now have that in the latest firmware uh that release would be available on github uh hopefully by the time that this video is out okay so in this segment here we're gonna just very quickly demonstrate uh regen it actually took

01:21:03

Quite a bit of work to get this uh working well so big thanks to johannes because he really helped me out with this so we're currently the parameters are uh that i've got six thousand rpm rev limiter um we're at thirty percent uh regen max and 30 regen travel got my got my throttle here so so we can now regen

01:21:40

Right down to a complete stop without any oscillations of torque or motor not doing what it should do so that is our regen and that's in the current code so the next thing that i'm going to do is i'm going to demonstrate

01:22:14

Uh with our leaf pdm here automatic charge starting and stopping all right so leave you folks watching the screen here as you can see we're currently in off mode and i'm just going to take my type 2 plug here stick it into our charging socket you'll hear our pre-charge kick over you'll see our system start up our dc dc comes up and then followed immediately by our charger

01:22:47

At the minute we're just using um a little uh granny cable here so it's quite low power and then when i go ahead and remove the plug we basically shut off um so that's automatic charge start and stop uh via our um leaf pdm and i can just if you want to see me do it i guess here with the with the uh

01:23:17

Plug we can just do it here again this is my whatever it is kia or hyundai socket it's just going over to our pdm let's plug in here the clicks and there's our dc dc we are charging and then we want to switch off just plug out and that's it so that is our leaf

01:23:47

Stack here pretty much working very well we've got drive we've got regen we've got dc dc we've got charging uh we got pretty much everything that we would want uh from this guy so folks that's it for part three of our uh vcu user manual series here i hope that it's been of some use to you and helps to clear up some of the at least the more common questions

01:24:21

Uh i know that at the minute we're really struggling with the chip shortage that the kits that i'm sending out do have components that need to be fitted so that is an unfortunate aspect um it wouldn't really matter where i was getting the boards made uh we would still be stuck with pretty much the same thing so with a bit of look uh come i guess maybe 2022

01:24:50

Uh we will start to be back in a position where the boards that we supply have have all the components on and you're literally just soldering the uh header on there which is a simple true hole job so anyway folks i won't say this is the last part in our vcu series will probably be another few parts because as things progress and as i try to um

01:25:18

I guess encompass as many uh things that people need to to know so as usual uh i'd recommend anyone uh coming into this to check the links in the description particularly as they pertain to the vcu so like the wiki page the github page um the support forum and the development or sorry the support trade and the development trade on the open

01:25:47

Inverter forum so i will wrap things up there for you uh don't forget to dislike unshare do not subscribe to this stupid channel and for pete's sake don't follow the links in the description and support me on patreon or paypal because then i just do more of this junk so with that being said uh from the gom cat and myself

01:26:18

Happy halloween and also happy isa shunt initialization [Music] you
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====ZombieVerter VCU V1 Build Part 4====
<youtube>https://youtu.be/rUaYSWmtsCI</youtube>

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{| role="presentation" class="wikitable mw-collapsible mw-collapsed"
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hello folks welcome to what promises to be a super boring and not very fun packed video uh so if you found yourself here by some freak accident immediately pause go up to the search box up there type funny cat video and press enter you will be taken away from this horribleness however for the two or three people that

00:00:39

Wish to uh continue watching then welcome welcome to i guess what passes today as my electronics lab here in the corner of the big barn uh so what we're looking at is our zombie verter vcu board and i've been meaning to make this video for some time but just circumstances didn't uh didn't allow for it

00:01:08

Uh so one of the reasons i wanted to make this is just that the videos that i had made on it but a year or two ago now are a little bit out of date and not that you know there's absolutely nothing changed on the design uh since then but as some of you will not will know we have had this uh chip shortage or whatever

00:01:34

They want to call it that basically means that it is difficult and sometimes impossible to obtain at least for mere mortals such as ourselves certain semiconductor devices um so again as some of you may know some of you may not i get my boards made in china uh by a company called jlcpcb

00:02:05

And this board here is just a sample of a latest batch that i got in from them a day or two ago and even if you don't know much about electronics you can see here that there's some rather glaring of all missions on this uh board notice the main microcontroller is missing and there's devices here here here here and two devices there

00:02:35

Are missing and the reason the there's two reasons these parts are missing one is that certain parts such as this guy here i see 12 which i think is the ncv 8461 glc pcb simply do not have the other reason is that say some of these devices here are the ncv 8402

00:03:07

Parts that glc pcb unfortunately are charging way too much money for the main microcontroller the stm32f107 vct6 is a similar thing they do have some of them in stock at least at the time of making this video but i think the price was something over 120 us dollars each uh to

00:03:43

Get those parts so i decline with thanks on those even though it does make the uh it does make the the kit build i guess more labor intensive for me so one question i want to address straight away because it has popped up again and again and i'm sure it will in this video

00:04:08

Is why don't i just say okay well you know you can charge whatever you want to charge and i'll just pass on the cost to my customers so could i get these boards almost fully populated every time probably in order for me to then sell these kits to people i would at the very least have to double the current sale price probably treble it and that's not something that i'm

00:04:45

Prepared to do and the reason that i'm not prepared to do that is that i realize that the the biggest barrier to entry that folks have with ev conversions is not knowledge it's not ability it's not a willingness to learn it's not you know some of the things you might think of like

00:05:13

Access to to a car or access to tools or any of these kind of things the single biggest communist barrier to entry is money and this is kind of what i'm here for i'm here to try and alleviate some of that even though sometimes it uh it feels like i'm you know two steps forward three steps

00:05:42

Back uh particularly in the last year with all of this as i say chip shortage nonsense now for me to say bump the sale price of this unit from i think it's 350 euros at the minute to the guts of a grand um that's simply going to put this number one at a price that

00:06:11

You know folks probably can't access and number two it's going to put it up there with the price of some competitor products that quite frankly are better developed then this is because this is pretty much just me and a few folks who contribute uh software uh there's there's not a lot of um

00:06:42

There's not a lot of unfortunately there's not uh as much contribution on this as i would as my kind of rose tinted glasses view of the world would have liked to see so i hope that it does move along and gets to a more polished point particularly from the software perspective i mean i have a running in three of my cars at the minute it'll be in a fourth

00:07:13

One hopefully later this year so the design is pretty good if i say so myself the software that i'm running now in my own cars is good i haven't had any problems with it but there's an awful lot of kind of nice add-on things that i would like to get better integrated but anyway enough about that

00:07:44

Um i just wanted to clarify why i don't simply you know or could i get a different pcb maker to make this and they'd populate it a hundred percent probably again yeah but again the price point just jumps up and it's out of reach um [Music] and it's just not where i where i want to be with this or indeed any of the other

00:08:10

Uh board kits that i'm trying to and i'm trying to sell there i'm trying to get things in there so that people can use oem parts in their conversions would i have them to spend a fortune on getting the controls so where that leaves us then is i get these boards say in the condition

00:08:40

That you see here now again there seems to have been a bit of confusion out there uh again despite sometimes me trying to explain things and um sometimes i guess the message doesn't get across but okay so let's get this one out of the way first of all obviously i don't have a test rig for this board or any other board so i do not and

00:09:12

Cannot 100 hardware test these before shipping them that's just not something that i have the ability to do however nor do i just take a board that comes in from jlcpcb stick it in a package with a few random components and then ship that that's not what i do either and again this is one of the reasons for making this video is that

00:09:41

I'm going to show you on this board here exactly what i do uh before you know you get the board and the kit of um whatever parts that i can supply uh to fit to it uh i also want to explain what you do not have to do there is there's quite a bit that i'm going to do here um and then there will be you know you know i think we had some

00:10:13

Had some folks um you know trying to program this and having problems doing that when as you'll see shortly i do all that here uh for you now obviously again uh when it comes to sourcing some of these missing parts here i will source as many as i can um

00:10:43

And i will include those in the kit for you however again as of the time of making this video which is kind of early june 2022 uh there are some parts that i simply cannot obtain uh genuinely now what do i mean by that meaning that i can get a package that has the right legs and the right

00:11:11

Footprint and has all the markings on it but there's probably no actual silicon in there that is the course of fake parts and again as a result of the chip shortage these have you know unfortunately became uh much more common and much more of a course for us that are involved in electronics they've you know fake parts have been around for as long as electronics um but

00:11:38

Unfortunately now they're floating around quite a bit i was unlucky um about two months ago i think maybe two months oh no probably a little bit more now about three months ago uh was before i moved house i had been looking for the can transceivers this um vcu board needs six um

00:12:10

Oh what are they heads melted uh six can transceivers um oh i can't remember the part number but anyway i ordered some i ordered like 10 from a supplier tested two or three out of the batch they were fine ordered a hundred from the same guy

00:12:37

Every single one turned out to be a fake so that unfortunately did get out to a few customers because immediately before and immediately after moving house i was initially trying to ship kits out as quick as i could and these things were here i put them in thinking they were genuine but of course they were not so got a nice real of those to put in

00:13:08

The bin uh the good news is i have gotten myself some new ones which i have for unfortunately are genuine oh here's the part number um sn65hvd230 so this is uh one area so i include anything that i can get genuinely two parts at the minute that i just cannot source

00:13:37

Are ic12 and ic10 ic12 is the ncva 461 high side switch and ic10 is the mcp25625 uh can controller and transceiver i have actually bought quite a few of these but yeah guess what fakes so i haven't yet found a genuine supplier for this part um but i'm still hopeful that i will be able to

00:14:11

So that brings us on to where do i get then parts at a at a much better price point right because say if for example glc pcb are wanting to charge 120 something us dollars for the

00:14:35

Stm32 well then how am i getting that at a much lower price and being sure that it's not you know at best um some kind of a reject from the manufacturer that isn't going to perform properly you know it might flash a few leds for me but not much else i'm sorry but our folks just had a delivery of some timber there the

00:15:03

House renovations are never ending so as i was saying uh how do i then get parts for less than what they seem to be um going for at the market value and ensure that they're not uh fakes or kind of semi-fakes well i'm not going to tell you exactly where i source my stm32s from but i will tell

00:15:31

You what they are um they are what isn't what are known as smd rejects now what that means is that most electronic components surface mount electronic components are supplied on are reel and they're fed into a pick and place machine that basically picks them off the tape

00:16:04

And plops them down onto the pads that's how electronics are mass manufactured so obviously doing that machine vision is an important part of the pro the process to ensure that the placement head places the part in the correct location now the tape where the components are stored is inspected as well i just take out a piece of this tape here uh might be able to illustrate the

00:16:40

Point a little bit better because here's some uh here's some stm32s here so the tape feeds in the leader is peeled back and the camera inspects the part and then the placement head comes in picks it up and plops it down now sometimes the camera will spot a problem a physical problem with the device that's on the tape

00:17:11

And when it does that the part is basically picked up and put into a reject bin and then the tape feeds on and the next part's fed into the process you know traditionally parts to get rejected like this um from an smd process pretty much go in the bin but i guess again now due to the chip shortage um

00:17:41

These parts are now becoming uh available on the market that we can purchase and they're perfectly fine to use for hand placement so the most common defect that you'll get is that at some point during the either the the reeling or the unreeling or the manufacturing process you know something

00:18:13

Is pressed against one-sided apart and has skewed some one even of the legs gets skewed and that's a reject because obviously it's not going to flow properly for the you know for high-speed manufacturing but if we just want to manually pick apart off a tape and we can hand solder it and correct the problem well then that's perfectly fine

00:18:46

So pretty much folks that's where i get my stm32s that's what these are it's where i've been getting them now for quite some time um i'm not gonna as i said i'm gonna tell you exactly where i get them from i can even see one of the defects here in this even without magnification i can see there's a leg kind of kicked here on that part there

00:19:12

Um so it'll be interesting now i'll be able to show you this when i put it on the pcb here so again this is where i get all my stm32s the one old trees and the 107s and they most certainly do not cost 122 us dollars each and it's little tricks like this that so far fingers crossed holes and pencils and crossed and touch wood and whatever this

00:19:42

Is fake wood that i haven't had to change any of my pricing it does mean that i've to do more work on these i mean when they were coming in fully populated i pretty much programmed them power tested them put in a wi-fi module packed them up shipped them out but what we'll show you now

00:20:09

Is what i do for a typical vcu kit and this will hopefully just make sure that folks don't get confused about what they should or shouldn't do when they get their kit all right okay so this is not going to be any kind of a soldering tutorial or smd placement tutorial or anything like this purpose this is just to pretty much show

00:20:40

You uh what i do so first thing we got to do before we can do anything is put a microcontroller on here so i've got my flux what i do is i put a little just put a little dab in the middle of each of the each of the um i guess sides like my smd rejects and uh just gonna peel back the tape got my dot here i got my dot here so

00:21:16

Pretty much making sure i get them then i just plop them on roughly in the right spot like that then using my finger i'm going to press down just so we squeeze out a bit of that flux into the middle at this point i'm going to deploy my first bit of magnification which is just a cheap um

00:21:38

Kind of a head head magnifier with a light on it and you're going to get to look at my bald head now unfortunately it's probably not as nice to look at on camera as i think it is so at this point what i'm doing is i'm just moving the device around with combination of my finger and the tweezers i'm trying to center all of the all of the legs on the pads i can see

00:22:09

There yeah you can see why that's on smd rejectors there's actually two reasons there's one leg this last leg here on this side has been kicked out and there's a tiny little bit of corrosion i think no sorry yeah a little bit of corrosion on a leg here as well so that's uh that's why the that's why the pick and place machine decided that one was for damien and not for

00:22:37

Some consumer product along the way so now that we have our part in the middle i get a nice big chisel tip soldering iron again just holding my device in the middle just put a little solder there like that may seem a little bit counter-intuitive to people that i'm

00:23:10

Using a really big soldering iron tip or you know should i not be using some tiny little thing and the reason is we're not trying to individually solder each of the legs that's i guess one of the common mistakes that people make best way to solder this style of an smd part

00:23:40

In my opinion not that that matters but is to uh what do they call it uh what's the name of the drag solder that's what i'm doing here now i'm just making sure i get my legs as central on the pad so i take a put a blob of solder at 90 degrees and then i just basically walk it onto the center making sure that i haven't

00:24:25

Screwed it off as badly as i sometimes do but i think i got that one okay so now i'm gonna now start my drag soldering in order for this to work we need to use the lewis rosman amount of flux so always use the right amount of flux folks that is key to these endeavors remember we're not trying to

00:25:10

Individually solder 256 pins not only would that take a very long time but it would probably not work out the way you think it would instead of that we're going to solder them all at the same time using a big blob of solder on the end of the soldering iron and as i said the lewis rossman quantity of flux and getting that getting those getting

00:25:46

That device getting the legs of that device i should say as central on the pads as i can it's kind of key to the process i mean it doesn't don't get me wrong i'm no expert at this it doesn't always doesn't always play out like that for me i screw up as much as the next person actually

00:26:13

Sometimes more than the next person and have i put these on in the wrong orientation absolutely absolutely dudely now once we do that inevitably what happens is as we draw the iron off we get a little bit of solder bridging as the excess solder needs to be just wicked away from the very end then we just run our tip again

00:26:52

Like that i did have a little usb microscope thing that i could have filmed this for you with if you wish to regale yourselves with my skills or lack thereof but either a it hasn't survived the house move or b i can't find it hoping it's more b than a so now my next bit of magnification is this little handheld thing so you're going to get to see more of my head now

00:27:25

Going in this gives me about a 12x mag and oh that's pretty decent if i say so myself good so far two down two for two three four three okay and there i've got another defect leg there so there was one that had got past me good job i'm not a machine vision camera

00:28:06

My time as a pick and place machine would be severely limited because there was one more leg that didn't must have been kicked up a little bit yeah there he is he didn't get soldered because there was one leg that was kind of pushed up like this more than his

00:28:28

Friends and thus uh he would have been a let's be another we got him that would have been uh another reason that that part was rejected sad for the part obviously but happy for us yeah oh yeah that's got them so assuming i haven't put this on the wrong way around which i don't think i have

00:28:55

And assuming there's no bridges in here or opens that i can't see with this little thing then uh we should be all set for the next phase now normally the next phase would be applying 12 volt power but on this particular batch sadly for me um jlc did not fit l3 which is the big 68 micro henry uh 2 amp inductor for the main 5 volt power supply so we get to do that

00:29:24

Yay als so uh this is one i removed from the board i'm still waiting on some of these to come in because i wasn't obviously expecting these not to be placed so i'm gonna go ahead and fit these and before you ask that question yes i will be fitting these i will be fitting these prior to shipping the boards and the reason for that is that i need them on here so i can

00:29:50

Do a power up test which we power up tests and we program all of our boards prior to shipping them out so you don't have to and so at the very very least you end up with a programmed board that is power tested and not

00:30:17

Repeat not dead on our arrival and not needing to be um programmed now the better way of doing this inductor on here would be to heat the board from underneath with the um with the hot air so i might actually do that if this doesn't uh

00:30:54

Just doesn't work out now this iron is very very powerful and so it can get a lot of heat in here it can put a lot of heat in so i'm kind of hoping that works okay for me so it's in it's not very straight but it is in now next phase um we're going to do two steps here we are going to power test the board

00:31:23

And we are going to program it so uh now i need something to set the board up on this blue so first of all for a power test we gotta turn on my power supply there we go power supplies on and you gotta activate the power supply so what i have got to do is i have a ground wire which goes in here like that and i have a 12 volt wire

00:31:54

Which would go in here like this and have i screwed up i hope not so first thing we're going to see here and i'm going to make sure you can see this on camera here can you see it yes can there's a red light on it says tree v tree on which means that our board has power because our board derives 3.3 volts from uh 12 volts sorry 3.3 volts from 5 volts and 5 volts from 12 volts so if we have

00:32:27

3.3 volts on we have all of our supply rails up so that's the first thing that you should see if you do not see that then you're either not applying power correctly or there's a problem now problem can be in the power supply or it can be for example if we had short-circuited excuse me some of our pins here

00:32:52

We would be causing the power supply circuit to shut down so what i'm going to do now is i'm going to program the well i'm going to attempt to communicate first of all with our stm32 now is this going to work don't know there's many reasons that it may not work it may not work because i've gotten stung again by fake parts

00:33:21

It may not work because i have somehow screwed up here as a pin i haven't soldered um [Music] it could be because i'm not oh data wait hang on pluck that yes it could not connect because i have to pins in the wrong way around ah as you can see this is all very professionally done here for your um oh yay communication all right now

00:33:52

I'm going to get my fingers out of the way and i'm going to the first thing i'm going to load into the to the um [Music] microcontroller is the bootloader so stm32 stm32loader.hex and i'm going to program and verify that and done then i'm going to

00:34:16

Get stm32vcu.hex there we go and i'm going to program and verify that now it's now programmed can now get rid of our programmer you do not need the programmer now or barring something super weird going on ever again so again let's see can we see this on camera yes we can we now have a second

00:34:45

Led it's flashing 10 times a second written beside it is accty short for activity so that means the software that we've just loaded into our microcontroller is executing and when it is executing that means that it's alive it's good so at this point um what i'm going to do next is i'm going to get myself a little paintbrush i'm going

00:35:18

To use some flux remover and some ipa and i'm going to get rid of all the flux that i use to um put the stm32 on there stand by all right so that's all the flux cleaned off so what i'm going to do next is i'm going to power up the board again and the reason that i do that is just to

00:35:44

Make sure that when i was brushing off the flux and all that i didn't dislodge a pin that caused a short or something silly so again i'm just going to power up the board and we see that we have our 3.3 volts on led and our activity led flashing away merrily here so what i would do here now at this point

00:36:13

In the process of uh making the kit is i would program a wi-fi module and then include as many parts as i have available to me as i explained that i can source genuinely and make up the kit and ship it to the customer now i'm not going to show you me you know putting parts in a bag and programming a wi-fi module that kind of thing but

00:36:42

Uh you're probably already bored to tears so you know no point pushing it so this is it folks i just wanted to update you on the state of play with our vcu hopefully quash some misconceptions that may have been out there about what does or doesn't need to be done um when you receive a kit and explain why there are you know still some missing

00:37:11

Bits indeed if there is anyone out there that knows a source particularly for the ncv8461 and the mcp256 do please drop a comment below and let me know um at some point in the future you know i would love to be able to get these fully assembled up tested you know ready to go so that folks don't

00:37:40

Have to get involved with any of this i'll be getting back on to some of the software design fairly soon because of some other features i want to implement and so on but i've got a lot of present stuff going on at the minute as i'm sure folks can understand um so lastly on this just again i just find myself again having the super clarified is

00:38:10

I do not provide one-to-one support uh for this or any kits or any products um the support for this and again all of the other things is provided via dedicated support treads on the open inverter forum where you know a lot of the time it is actually me answering the questions anyway but the reason that i insist upon doing it well one of the reasons i insist upon doing it through the for the forum is that i'm not just answering

00:38:41

The same question again and again and again it's there for all people to see so i'll put a link in the description to the support tread for the vcu and also the wiki page on the open inverter website which is really good now folks have really done a lot of um good contributions on that so many thanks right i think that's about it i'll leave it there

00:39:13

Um as always do not forget to dislike do not share do not subscribe and for pete's sake folks don't support me on patreon and paypal and things like that because then i'll just do more of this kind of thing and let's face it who wants that so ah that's it i mean

00:39:43

Until next time happy non-fake chip sourcing [Music]
|}
==Installation==
'''Pin Out Diagram'''[[File:ZombieVerter VCU V1 cable side pinout.jpg|thumb|alt=|VCU pinout diagram |none]]
[[File:Zomb-con-et.png|none|thumb|List of connections to system components (GS450 application)]]

Further information for a GS450 system can be found here: [[Lexus GS450h Drivetrain]]

'''Note''': In the software port 0 = EXT2 and port 1 = EXT

==Initial start-up and testing==
===Wifi Setup===
The VCU is configured by connecting to its wifi access point. For existing units this is something like SSID: ESP-03xxxx, no password. For future units (shipped after 20/10/21) this will be SSID: inverter (or zom_vcu) PASSWORD: inverter123

'''NOTE:''' Recent units have a new wifi module that isn't automatically assigning an IP via DHCP. See [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=2001 this thread] for details, and if you can help resolve the issue. Until then, you need to manually assign an IP of 192.168.4.2 (anything other than 192.168.14.1 on the 192.168.4.0/24 subnet) to your device.

Then navigate to 192.168.4.1 to see the huebner inverter dashboard.

===Configuration Setup===
Get familiar with the interface and check that all of the parameters make sense. If in doubt, make sure the default value is set. At each stage the current state of the system and any error can be seen on the interface, for example '''opmode''' and '''lasterr'''. Press refresh at the top of the screen to update the values.

You will need the HV supply connected, which can be a lower voltage (50-100V), current limited power supply for test purposes. Set '''udcmin''' to some value below that (e.g. 50V for a 100V supply) and '''udcsw''' to 10V lower than the supply.

*Apply the '''Ignition T15 in''' 12V signal. The relay supplying 12V to the inverter should now be on.

*Check the accelerator by applying it gradually and watching / refreshing the interface. You should see values at '''pot''' change as the pedal is pressed. '''potmin''' should be set just below where your off-throttle position is, and '''potmax''' just above the value seen at maximum travel [note this used to be the opposite prior to version 1.06A). Same for '''pot2min''' and '''pot2max''', if they are electrically connected. The resulting value as a 0-100 value can be seen at '''potnom'''.

''If it does not show up, check for errors and check that throtmax is not set to zero! Check that tmpm is less than tmpmmax, as it can derate the potnom value down as far as zero!''

* Apply the '''Start''' 12V signal for a short time. The pre-charge relay should turn on, and the voltage available at the inverter and the U1 input of the ISA shunt should quickly rise. If the '''udc''' reading goes above '''udcsw''' within 5 seconds then the main contactor(s) should close. If all is well, '''invstat''' should now be "on", '''opmode''' should be "run".

''If you do not see a good value at udc, it may be that your external shunt is not connected properly or is not initialised.''

''If you do not see a good value at Invudc, it may be that the inverter is not powered, or the communication signals are not correctly wired.''

''if the status stays at "PRECHARGE" then you possibly didn't hold the start signal on for long enough!''

*Once the contactors are on, select forwards direction. For example if '''dirmode''' is set to "Switch" then a 12V signal applied to the Forward input will work.

*Carefully apply the accelerator and the motor should begin to turn. Do not spin the motor up to any speed if you are using a test power supply.
*
*Note: Leaf VCU requires minimum of 180v to operate, it is also sensible to test with rev limit set to 1000 RPM.
*

==Software==

[https://github.com/damienmaguire/Stm32-vcu '''Github for the project:''' https://github.com/damienmaguire/Stm32-vcu]

'''Unless you have a specific reason not to, end users should use a released version from: https://github.com/damienmaguire/Stm32-vcu/releases<nowiki/>.'''

'''GD variant:'''

''Status as of November 20 2021''

''Early boards fitted with the GigaDevices '''GD32F107''' aka "GD chip" require different firmware routines than '''STM32F107''' equipped boards. See this [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=33758#p33758 Zombieverter VCU Support Thread forum post]''

''The GigaDevices `[https://www.gigadevice.com/products/microcontrollers/gd32/arm-cortex-m3/connectivity-line/gd32f107-series/ GD32F107] was chosen as an alternative to the ST equivalent due to microchip shortages during the COVID-19 pandemic. A specific branch of firmware code for the GD32F107 variant is found here: https://github.com/damienmaguire/Stm32-vcu/tree/GD_Zombie However development of this variant was abandoned shortly after it's release.''

''As of this writing , The [https://github.com/damienmaguire/Stm32-vcu/tree/GD_Zombie GD_Zombie] branch has fallen behind and substantially diverged from the primary code base. It has been suggested that work needs to be done to make the present firmware chip agnostic via detection routines. See this [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=34220#p34220 Zombieverter Development Thread forum post]. As of this writing that work has yet to be undertaken and remains to be organized and completed. And issue has be devoted to tracking this progress here: [https://github.com/damienmaguire/Stm32-vcu/issues/21 Issue #21]''

Here is a link to a post with a pre compiled bin and hex for the GD_Zombie created by Damien on the 23/11/21; [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=34264#p34264 ZombieVerter VCU Support - Page 9 - openinverter forum] This is based on the 16/6/21 code it is '''not''' an update. Ensure you rename the binaries to stm32_vcu.xxx to ensure no wifi issues.

''UPDATE November 23 2021''

''Updated information about the necessary edits to make to the STM32 based firmware have been posted in a [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=34264#p34264 forum post here.] In order to get the firmware to compile and run on the '''GD32F107''' you must make the following changes:''

''In the file "'''anain.cpp'''" @ line 68:''

''<code>68 - // adc_start_conversion_regular(ADC1); // Comment out for GD MCU</code>In the file'' ''"'''stm32_can.cpp'''" @ starting at line 305 modify as follows :''

''<code>305 - gpio_set_mode(GPIO_BANK_CAN2_RE_RX, GPIO_MODE_INPUT, GPIO_CNF_INPUT_PULL_UPDOWN, GPIO_CAN2_RE_RX);</code>''

''<code>306 - gpio_set(GPIO_BANK_CAN2_RE_RX, GPIO_CAN2_RE_RX);</code>''

''<code>307 - // Configure CAN pin: TX.-</code>''

''<code>308 - gpio_set_mode(GPIO_BANK_CAN2_RE_TX, GPIO_MODE_OUTPUT_50_MHZ, GPIO_CNF_OUTPUT_ALTFN_PUSHPULL, GPIO_CAN2_RE_TX);</code>''

If you properly clone the repository with '''git''' on the command line that looks like this;

<code>git clone --recurse-submodules git@github.com:damienmaguire/Stm32-vcu.git</code>

That recursively pulls in copies of '''''libopeninv''''', etc and tracks them... Hence your file-path should look like

<code>./Stm32-vcu/libopeninv/src/</code>

within the '''''libopeninv''''' src (source) directory you will find '''''anain.cpp''''' and '''''stm32_can.cpp'''''

Make the above changes to these files for the '''GigaDevices GD32F107'''.

== Software update==

As supplied, both the ESP8266 (the wifi plug-in board) and the STM32 (main MPU) are pre-loaded.

The "UART Update" field on the GUI can be given a '''stm32_vcu.bin''' file to update the firmware. Note that at this time, loading via Windows 10 is suspect and may lock you out of the board. Ubuntu works best.

'''Unless you have a specific reason not to, end users should use a released version from: https://github.com/damienmaguire/Stm32-vcu/releases'''.

By using the ST-Link V2 in-circuit loader, '''.hex''' files can be sent to the board to initialize a fresh STM32 MCU, or if it can't be loaded via the bootloader.

'''Unless you have a specific reason not to, end users should use a released version from: https://github.com/damienmaguire/Stm32-vcu/releases'''.

The connections needed to use the ST-Link loader are shown below:
[[File:0B35D4F9-BA64-46E7-A570-A0CE1D619D63.jpg|none|thumb]]

===Initializing an ISA Shunt ===
Under Comms in the web interface, there is now an ISAMode option. By default its in "Normal". If you want to initialize a new shunt, connect it up, power on the shunt and vcu, select "Init", hit save parameters to flash. Power cycle the vcu and shunt at same time (they should be on same 12v feed anyway). The shunt will initialize. Select ISAMode "normal", save to flash again and reboot again. The shunt should now be up and running.
==Supported OEM Hardware==

* Nissan Leaf Gen1/2/3 inverter via CAN
* Nissan Leaf Gen2 PDM (Charger and DCDC)
* [[BMW I3 Fast Charging LIM Module|CCS DC fast charge via BMW i3 LIM]] - currently type 2 only, type 1 under development
* Lexus GS450h inverter / gearbox via sync serial
* Toyota Prius/Yaris/Auris Gen 3 inverters via sync serial
* 1998-2005 BMW 3-series (E46) CAN support
* 1996-2003 BMW 5-series (E39) CAN support
* 2001-2008 BMW 7-series (E65) CAN Support
* Mid-2000s VAG CAN support
* [[Chevrolet Volt Water Heater|Opel Ampera / Chevy Volt 6.5kw cabin heater]]

== Troubleshooting ==

=== Serial Connection ===
If you're having trouble connecting using the serial interface, note that the parameters are 115200 8-N-2, which is different from the conventional 115200 8-N-1.

== References ==
<references />
[[Category:Inverter]]

Batteries

2022-11-14T21:55:28Z

Mark: Adding Prius Prime

== Introduction ==
There are a wide variety of battery chemistries available for use as the main traction battery of an EV. To use each chemistry safely, and to ensure an adequate service life from the battery pack it is important to understand the requirements for the chemistry you are using. Failure to do so may lead to premature or catastrophic failure of the pack.

Good pack design will allow for a nominal amount of abuse. People make mistakes and the pack should allow a margin for safety - and for longevity!

== Battery pack specification ==
When deciding on your battery pack, here are some basic parameters to consider:

=== Capacity (kWh) ===
'''How far do you want to go?''' A standard car conversion will need a kWh for each 3, maybe 4 miles of range (very approximately). For a middleweight motorcycle, a kWh should give around 9 miles. Your mileage may vary, ''as they say.''

=== Voltage (V) ===
'''How fast do you want to go?''' The pack voltage defines the maximum speed your motor can spin. Motors are usually specified with "KV" - or RPM-per-volt. Check the KV of your motor and how fast it needs to spin to get your desired top speed. e.g. if you need 3,000 RPM from a 25 KV motor then your pack voltage needs to be 3,000 / 25 = 120 V. The exact number of cells in series you need depends on the cell design, but 3.8 V for Li-ion and 3.2 V for LiFePO4 is a reasonable guess.

=== Maximum current (A) ===
'''How quickly do you want to accelerate?''' Your motor's maximum power will be specified in kW. To estimate your maximum current draw, divide the peak power by the battery voltage. e.g. a 30 kW motor with a 120 V battery pack will pull 30,000 / 120 = 250 A. The higher the current rating of the cells, the heavier they will be for a given capacity. Ideally, you want "enough" current capacity for full throttle acceleration, but no more. You can put cells in parallel to double the current rating of your pack (which of course will half the voltage). Running cells in parallel is easy, but don't attempt to parallel battery packs unless you really know what you are doing. It's complicated<ref>https://www.orionbms.com/manuals/pdf/parallel_strings.pdf (Backup: [https://web.archive.org/web/20210322000103/https://www.orionbms.com/manuals/pdf/parallel_strings.pdf Web Archive])</ref>.

=== Mass (kg) ===
'''Can your vehicle carry the weight?''' You'll need to keep the kerb weight within the original design limits. For a car, your pack could be a few hundred kg. For a motorcycle, likely less than 100 kg. This is a huge variable - and each new generation of battery tech seems to be a little lighter. For older EV or hybrid batteries, you can reckon on approximately 10 kg/kWh. Nissan Leaf batteries are relatively light (7.5 kg/kWh). With the latest technology (e.g. Kokam pouch cells or 18650s), you can get this down to 5-6 kg/kWh.

=== Volume (L) ===
'''Will it fit?''' Batteries are bulky. They are getting smaller, but finding enough space might be your biggest challenge. You could be looking at over 5 L/kWh for older EV or hybrid batteries. Current state-of-the-art is the Tesla Model 3, which gets this down to 2.5 L/kWh by using 2170 cylindrical cells.

There is much, much more to battery design than this (e.g. maximum charge rate, terminations, cooling, clamping), but the above should help work out which options will or won't work for your project...

== Cell chemistry ==

=== Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) ===
Lithium Iron Phosphate (also known as LFP, or LiFePO4) batteries offer a good compromise between safety, energy density and ease of use for DIY conversions. They are available in a number of formats, commonly pouch cells, prismatic cells and cylindrical cells.

==== LiFePO4 pouch cells ====
The majority of this content is drawn from this thread <ref>[https://web.archive.org/web/20210124061443/https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=38761&start=900 https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=38761&start=900] (Backup: [https://web.archive.org/web/20210124061443/https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=38761&start=900 Web Archive])</ref> discussing the use of the A123 20Ah pouch cell. However, many of the general points apply equally to other similar pouch cells.

===== General build requirements =====
Pouch cells are vulnerable to damage from debris, and must be held in compression (see the datasheet for your battery, but 10-12 psi is recommended for the A123 pouch cells as a guide). A rigid container capable of preventing damage and providing compression is therefore required. Be aware the cells expand and contract in use, so allowance for this must be included in the structure of the case.

The pouch cells should be separated to prevent abrasion between cells, and also to avoid the development of hot spots. Prebuilt modules from A123 systems had thin foam sheets or heatsinks between each cell. Be sure to avoid any debris that could rub on the pouch surface, particularly if using recycled cells.

Mylar, 'Fish paper'<ref>https://www.americanmicroinc.com/fish-paper/ (Backup: [https://web.archive.org/web/20221016210644/https://www.americanmicroinc.com/electrical-insulator-materials/fish-paper/ Web Archive])</ref> or a compliant foam<ref>https://www.rogerscorp.com/elastomeric-material-solutions/poron-industrial-polyurethanes (Backup: [https://web.archive.org/web/20220604010733/https://rogerscorp.com/elastomeric-material-solutions/poron-industrial-polyurethanes Web Archive])</ref> may be appropriate materials to serve this purpose. This material should not be flammable. If the material is heat insulating, it is important to address thermal management.

===== Compression =====
Compression is required to prevent premature failure of the cell. Without compression electrolyte will become unevenly distributed, causing current gradients in the cell and uneven heating. Local temperatures can become high enough to form gas formation leading to cells 'puffing up' even when the pack is otherwise held within temperature and voltage constraints. This will be exacerbated in packs with otherwise poor thermal management. Compression forces gas generated to the margins of the cell, outside of the cell stack, minimising its effect cell performance. Gas in the middle cells will create a dead space which does not store or release energy.

There is ~1% expansion through a discharge cycle. As the cell ages, the nominal cell thickness can grow by 3-5%. For A123 cells the ideal pressure is between 4 and 18psi with the ideal pressure being ~12psi. Maintaining 12psi can increase the life by 500 cycles over that of 4 or 18psi

There is some suggestion that in uses where 1C is never exceeded compression ''may'' not be required.

Highly rigid endplates with a mechanism to allow for a limited degree of expansion (e.g. steel bands) are considered an effective solution to this challenge.

It should be noted that compression is a challenge specific to pouch cells. Cylindrical cells are designed to maintain their own compression within the cell's electrode stack by their design.

This thread provides more information and experimentation relating to pack compression: <nowiki>https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=52244</nowiki>

===== Pouch Cell Pack Design Examples =====
<nowiki>*</nowiki>placeholder*

===== Notes regarding recycled pouch cells =====
Pouch cells are somewhat fragile, and breaching the insulation is not difficult, especially in a cells removed from existing packs and repurposed. If the pouch has had their poly-layers compromised you may see a number of faults:
* Black spots around the perimeter of the cell indicate electrolyte leakage
* Voltage on the outside of the bag. Note that microvoltage between the pouch and the electrode is normal (and due to a capacitive effect).
While the majority of these cells should no longer be in the market, a significant number of faulty cells made it back into the 'greymarket' in around 2013. These cells had misaligned tabs which can also lead to isolation failures between the tab and the pack. These cells should be avoided, particularly in high demand applications.

===== Situations likely to cause pouch cell failure =====
''Taken directly from wb9k's''<ref name=":0">https://endless-sphere.com/forums/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=33107 </ref> ''post on endless sphere in the A123 thread''<ref name=":1">https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=38761 (Backup: [https://web.archive.org/web/20210116021026/https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=38761 Web Archive])</ref>
# '''Overcharge'''. Any extended time above 3.8 Volts will generate enough heat and electrochemical activity to puff a cell, especially one that is improperly compressed.
# '''Overdischarge followed by charge'''. Any A123 cell that has been pulled low enough to come to rest at <300 mV should be immediately scrapped. The published number for that is 500 mV, but the real figure is closer to 300, so that's a "safety buffer" if you will. Below this Voltage, the Cu electrodes start to dissolve into the electrolyte. When charge is applied, the Cu forms dendrites that puncture the separator layer, forming an internal short in the cell. This can puff a cell in a hurry---the more charge current on tap, the worse it's prone to be.
# '''Driving a cell negative'''. I've neglected to mention this before, but it is a possibility. I don't know much about the specific mechanism at this time.
# '''Malfunctioning or misinformed electronics'''. This is the most common cause of all of the above in my experience. At this stage of the game, it is critical for YOU to understand how your BMS functions on at least a cursory level. Choose your BMS very carefully and periodically verify that it is operating properly. They're not all created equal. Make sure V sense lines are securely connected and free of corrosion. Just because your BMS says there was never a problem doesn't necessarily make it so. Avoid harnesses or ribbon cables between multiple modules if possible--they are problematic wherever they are used in any mobile electronics.
# '''Exposure to or generation of sufficient heat'''. I don't know exactly at what temperature gas formation begins in the electrolyte, but we spec a max storage temp of 80 (or 85?) degrees C and I suspect this is the reason. The hotter, the puffier--to a point. This is why soldering tabs poses a real hazard to cell health. If you feel you must solder, sink or blow the heat away from the body of the cell. Use a big iron that can make sufficient local heat quickly, before the whole mass of the cell gets hot. You might even get the cell warm enough to melt separator if not careful.
# '''No compression, not enough compression, improperly distributed compression'''. This is a pack/module design issue. Apply 10, maybe 15 psi to your cell stack end to end and then band snugly and evenly. Use hard endplates of some sort--never wrap cells directly or allow their shape to become distorted. Protect all areas of the pouch from impact damage. This obviously does not apply to cylindrical cells.

==== LiFePO4 prismatic cells ====
<nowiki>*</nowiki>placeholder*

==== LiFePO4 cylindrical cells ====
<nowiki>*</nowiki>placeholder*

==== LiFePO4 cell ageing ====
''Derived (barely paraphrased) from wb9k's''<ref name=":0" /> ''post on endless sphere in the A123 thread''<ref name=":1" />

Capacity loss is caused by the lithium that was available for storage becoming permanently plated on the cathode. Being unable to move within the cell it is no longer available to store energy. The impact of this plating is greater than the amount of lithium 'lost' to plating because not only is the lithium no longer available, it is also preventing access to that part of the cathode meaning Li that can still move has to take a longer path to reach the cathode. Lithium plating is one cause of increased cell resistance (there are others), a sign of worsening cell health.

There is no linear relationship between actual capacity loss and impedance rise. However some cell defects will also increase impedance.

Increasing cell resistance may cause a number of symptoms which may be confused with High Self Discharge.<ref>https://earthshipbiotecture.com/a-lithium-ion-battery-primer/ (Backup: [https://web.archive.org/web/20220524233332/https://earthshipbiotecture.com/a-lithium-ion-battery-primer/ Web Archive])</ref>
# Elevated Peukert Losses. As more energy per amount of current through the cell is lost as heat, the cells useable capacity decreases. So the apparent capacity loss is higher than the actual capacity loss of cycleable lithium. When used in low current applications (e.g. solar energy storage) the actual and apparent decrease in capacity will be small. In high current draw applications (like EV traction packs), the Peukert loss increases proportionally, so the apparent capacity loss increases much faster than the actual capacity loss.
# Greater voltage excursion under the same load. Due to increased cell resistancethe voltage will sag further under the same load than a cell in optimal condition. The inverse is also true, the voltage will be higher for the same amount of charging current applied. The cell will then rebound to a voltage further from the loaded and charging voltages. This, obviously, can look like high self discharge but is a different phenomenon.
# Absolute maximum current decrease.
Elevated impedance causes a more complex constellation of symptoms, some of which may be easy to confuse with High Self Discharge (HSD). Ohm's law (E=I/R) holds the key to understanding here.

'''1) Elevated Peukert losses.''' Because more energy per unit of current through the cell is lost as heat, less of the cell's capacity is actually USABLE. Thus, apparent capacity loss can be significantly greater than actual capacity loss caused by the loss of cycleable Li alone. In low current applications, the two numbers will be close together. In high current applications, Peukert losses increase in proportion, so apparent loss of capacity breaks further and further away from actual capacity loss as current increases.

'''2) Greater voltage excursion under the same load.''' Elevated resistance across the cell means that voltage will sag more under the same load than it did when the cell was healthier. Conversely, voltage will rise higher with the same amount of applied charge current than it did when it was healthier. At the same time, rebound/settling voltages will be further away from loaded/charging voltages. In other words, the cell will rebound to a voltage further away from loaded voltage, all else being equal. Similarly, voltage will settle farther from the charge voltage with the same charge applied. This can give the illusion of elevated self-discharge, but the phenomenon is actually not the same thing. Again, the greater the charge and load currents, the greater the effect becomes.

'''3) Absolute max current decreases.''' Because the cell's series resistance is elevated, the maximum possible current through the cell is decreased.

Just to confuse things further, there can be many factors that lead to impedance rise. Some are related to Li plating, others are not.

=== Lithium-ion ===
Lithium-ion (Li-ion) batteries have a greater energy density than Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries, but have more challenging needs to use safely. The ideal operating range of Li-ion batteries is between +15 and +45°C. The upper limit of temperature is particularly important as Li-ion batteries experience thermal runaway - an unstoppable chain reaction that can occur in milliseconds releasing the stored energy in the cell. This can produce temperatures of 400°C and a fire that is extremely difficult to put out. Thermal runaway can start as low as 60°C and becomes much more likely at 100°C

Risk factors for thermal runaway:
* Short Circuits - either internally or externally
* Overcharging
* Excessive current draw or when charging

==== Li-ion pouch cells ====
Kokam produce high-performance Li-ion pouch cells<ref>https://kokam.com/en/product/cell/lithium-ion-battery (Backup: [https://web.archive.org/web/20220423100132/https://kokam.com/en/product/cell/lithium-ion-battery Web Archive])</ref>. These combine relative ease of use and pack construction with performance close to cylindrical cells.

==== Li-ion 18650 and other cylindrical cells ====
Cylindrical cells are favoured by Tesla, and are probably the main reason why their cars achieve such excellent performance. They are light, compact, powerful and expensive. Unfortunately, cylindrical cells are difficult (and potentially dangerous) to use in DIY conversions. There are two good reasons for this: thermal management and cell configuration.

As stated above, Li-ion cells are prone to thermal runaway. So you need perfect battery and thermal management to ensure that no cell ever exceeds the critical voltage or temperature. If this happens, a cell can short-circuit internally, releasing a lot of energy - potentially explosively. Furthermore, the individual cells are small, so need to be arranged in parallel. In the case of the Tesla Model S 85kW pack, there are 74 cells in parallel. Imagine if one of those cells fails and becomes short circuited internally. You now have 73 very high power cells all feeding in to that short circuit...

In fact, you don't have to imagine: you can watch this famous video instead (courtesy of Rich Rebuilds).

<youtube>WdDi1haA71Q</youtube>

== OEM modules ==
Using an OEM module means a lot of the difficulties and safety issues associated with battery design are taken care of e.g. cooling, clamping, etc.

Here is a handy list of OEM modules:
{| class="wikitable sortable mw-collapsible"
|+
!Manufacturer
!Model
!Capacity (kWh)
!Weight (kg)
!w (mm)
!d (mm)
!h (mm)
!Gravity (kg/kWh)
!Volume (L/kWh)
!Voltage (V)
!Current (cont A)
!Current (peak A)
!Cell arrangement
!Cell type
!Chemistry
|-
|Tesla
|Model S 85kWh
|5.3
|26
|690
|315
|80
|4.9
|3.3
|22.8
|500
|750
|74p6s
|18650
|Li-ion
|-
|Tesla
|Model S 100kWh
|6.4
|28
|680
|315
|80
|4.4
|2.7
|22.8
|
|870
|86p6s
|18650
|Li-ion
|-
|Tesla
|Model 3 LR (inner)
|19.2
|98.9
|1854
|292
|90
|5.2
|2.5
|91.1
|
|971
|46p25s
|2170
|Li-ion
|-
|Tesla
|Model 3 LR (outer)
|17.7
|86.6
|1715
|292
|90
|4.9
|2.5
|83.9
|
|971
|46p23s
|2170
|Li-ion
|-
|Tesla
|Model 3 SR (inner)
|13.0
|58.9
|1385
|326
|90
|
|3.7
|91.1
|
|603
|31p24s
|2170
|Li-ion
|-
|Tesla
|Model 3 SR (outer)
|12.0
|58.9
|1380
|344
|90
|
|3.8
|83.9
|
|603
|31p24s
|2170
|Li-ion
|-
|Calb
|4S3P
|2.19
|12
|355
|151
|108
|5.5
|2.6
|14.6
|
|900
|3p4s
|Pouch
|Li-ion
|-
|Calb
|6S2P
|2.19
|12
|355
|151
|108
|5.5
|2.6
|22.2
|
|600
|2p6s
|Pouch
|Li-ion
|-
|Chevrolet
|Volt 2012
|4
|38
|470
|180
|280
|9.5
|5.9
|88.8
|
|676
|3p24s
|Pouch
|Li-ion
|-
|BMW
|i3 60Ah
|2
|13
|368
|178
|102
|6.5
|3.3
|28.8
|210
|350
|2p8s
|Prismatic
|Li-ion
|-
|BMW
|i3 94Ah
|4.15
|28
|410
|310
|150
|6.7
|4.6
|45.6
|
|409
|12s
|Prismatic
|Li-ion
|-
|BMW
|i3 120Ah
|5.3
|28
|410
|310
|150
|5.3
|3.6
|45.6
|
|360
|12s
|Prismatic
|Li-ion
|-
|BMW
|[[BMW Hybrid Battery Pack|PHEV 34Ah]]
|2.0
|13.05
|368
|178
|102
|6.525
|3.34
|59.0
|
|
|
|Prismatic
|Li-ion
|-
|Jaguar
|iPace
|2.5
|12
|340
|155
|112
|4.8
|2.4
|10.8
|720
|1200
|4p3s
|Pouch
|Li-ion
|-
|LG
|4P3S
|2.6
|12.8
|357
|151
|110
|4.9
|2.3
|11
|
|
|4p3s
|Pouch
|Li-ion
|-
|Mitsubishi
|Outlander
|2.4
|26
|646
|184
|130
|10.8
|6.4
|60
|
|240
|16s
|
|Li-ion
|-
|Nissan
|Leaf 24kWh
|0.5
|3.65
|300
|222
|34
|7.3
|4.5
|7.2
|130
|228
|2p2s
|Pouch
|Li-ion LMO
|-
|Nissan
|Leaf 30kWh
|1.25
|
|300
|222
|34
|
|3.6
|14.4
|
|
|2p4s
|Pouch
|Li-ion
|-
|Nissan
|Leaf 40kWh
|1.6
|8.7
|300
|222
|68
|5.4
|2.8
|14.4
|
|314
|2p4s
|Pouch
|Li-ion NMC
|-
|Nissan
|Leaf 62kWh
|2.58
|
|
|
|
|
|
|14.4
|
|
|3p4s
|
|Li-ion
|-
|PSA/Opel
|Pugeot E-208, Corsa E
|2.73
|12.7
|390
|150
|115
|4.6
|2.5
|21.9
|
|
|6p2s
|Pouch
|Li-ion
|-
|Volvo
|XC90 T8
|2.01
|12.1
|300
|180
|150
|6.0
|4.0
|59.2
|170
|340
|16s
|
|Li-ion
|-
|VW
|[[VW Hybrid Battery Packs|Passet GTE]]
|2.48
|23.4
|360-410
|225-235
|150
|9.4
|4.8-5.5
|88.8
|
|
|24s
|Prismatic
|Li-ion
|-
|VW
|[[VW Hybrid Battery Packs|Golf GTE]]
|1.086
|9.8
|355
|152
|110
|9.02
|5.5
|44
|
|
|12s
|Prismatic
|Li-ion
|-
|VW
|Touareg 14,1 kWh
|1.76
|12.3
|385
|150
|108
|7.0
|3.5
|45.25
|
|
|13s
|Prismatic
|Li-ion
|-
|VW
|id3/id4 55kWh, 62kWh
|6.85
|32
|225
|590
|110
|4.67
|2.13
|44.4
|
|
|12s2p
|
|
|-
|VW
|id3/id4 82kWh
|6.85
|32
|225
|590
|110
|4.67
|2.13
|29.6
|
|
|8s3p
|
|
|-
|Toyota
|Prius Prime
|1.76
|16.9
|597
|152
|121
|9.6
|6.24
|70.3
|
|
|
|
|
|}

== References ==
<references />
[[Category:Battery]]

Mechanical design database

2022-11-13T01:47:02Z

Mark: Adding GS450h locking plate from https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=20934

=== A open data base for different mechanical hardware designs ===

* adapter plates
* motor couplers
* drive shaft flanges
* covers, caps, shields,
* etc

zero ev CAD library https://zero-ev.co.uk/cad/?v=3e8d115eb4b3
{| class="wikitable"
|+adapter plates
!motor
!source
!status
!gearbox
!source
!status
|-
|Nissan leaf gen 2+ (em57)
|https://github.com/bratindustries/adapter-plates/tree/main/nissan/leaf

https://bratindustries.net/product/em57-adapter-plate/
|fits!
|vintage VW
|
|
|-
|Nissan leaf gen 1 (em61)
|[[File:EM61.png|thumb|EM61]]
|
|Nissan 5 speed 71B
|https://github.com/bratindustries/adapter-plates/tree/main/nissan/5speed
|untested
|-
|Mitsubishi outlander rear motor
|https://openinverter.org/forum/download/file.php?id=8468

https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=25569&hilit=cad+file#p25569
|
|
|
|
|-
|Toyota Prius transaxle
|
|
|
|
|
|-
|Lexus GS450h locking plate
|https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=20934
|
|
|
|
|-
|tesla model 3
|https://zero-ev.co.uk/TM3RDU.zip?v=3e8d115eb4b3
|
|
|
|
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+3d printed parts
!parts for:
!function
!status
!source
!
|-
|molex memx cinch modice headers and encloser
|3d printable versions of the molex memx, used for many different vcu boards.
|
|https://github.com/bratindustries/molex-headers
|
|-
|toyota prius gen 3 inverter
|HV+LV conections
|fits!
|https://github.com/jamiejones85/Gen3PriusInverter3DParts
https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=37156&hilit=3d+printed#p37156
|
|-
|toyota prius gen 2 inverter
|HV and MG adaptors/blanks
|
|https://github.com/Wonk6677/Prius-Gen-2-printed-parts
|
|-
|nissan leaf battery
|LV conector
|
|
|
|-
|gs450h inverter
|HV connections
|
|https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1694
|
|-
|mitsubishi outlander rear inverter
|HV connections
|
|https://openinverter.org/forum/download/file.php?id=13803
https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=37192&hilit=3d+printed#p37192
|
|-
|mitsubishi outlander rear inverter
|3D Scan
|
|https://grabcad.com/library/mitsubishi-outlander-phev-rear-inverter-1
|
|-
|mitsubishi outlander rear Motor
|Resolver connector cable gland replacement
|
|https://github.com/Wonk6677/mitsubishi-outlander-rear-motor-3d-printed-parts
|
|-
|mitsubishi outlander rear Motor
|3D Scan
|
|https://grabcad.com/library/outlander-phev-rear-motor-1
|
|-
|mitsubishi outlander rear Gearbox
|3D Scan
|
|https://grabcad.com/library/outlander-phev-rear-gearbox-1
|
|-
|VW Golf GTE Battery
|3D printable Terminal cover
|Fits
|https://grabcad.com/library/1577279
|
|}

Chevrolet Volt Charger

2022-11-01T14:08:02Z

Mark: Fixed a few spelling errors

This unit is CAN controlled also. It is actually two chargers in one box. One module charges 12V battery up to 30A worth. Second module is HV charger and it can operate from 200V up to 420Vdc. Usually it provides 8A for charging the main battery.
[[File:New-Doc-2018-12-26-20.25.04 1.jpg|thumb]]
First we need to connect to 12V battery. Second connector provides control voltage and interlock in case of EVSE malfunction. Note charger has two CAN bus lines. We only utilise the first one as seen from the sketch. Drawn is connector from charger side.

The Lear operates CAN at 500Kbps.

Select which of the charger modules you wish to operate. Only one msg is sent for heartbeat, do not send all three messages!

Address DLC Data0 Data1 Data2 Data3

0x30E 1 0x01 Turn on aux12vdc

0x30E 1 0x02 Turn on HV Charging
[[File:Volt gen1 charger Control1.png|thumb]]
0x30E 1 0x03 Turn on aux12vdc and turn on HV Charging

This message is sent at 30ms interval

Then send command line.

0x304 4 0x40 0xA0 0x03 0x20 Charge at 8amps to 400.0vdc
[[File:Volt gen1 charger Control2.png|thumb]]
[[File:Volt gen1 charger DC.png|thumb]]
This is sent at 500ms interval

Address 0x304 Data0 is an unknown at present, but seem to be 40 or 48 in the Volt.
[[File:Volt gen1 charger AC.png|thumb]]
Address 0x304 Data1 is the current commanded, convert to decimal and divide by 20.

Address 0x304 Data2 first 2 bits are MSB of the voltage command.

Address 0x304 Data3 byte is the LSB of the voltage command. Then MSB LSB is divided by 2.

Example:

Data1 is A0(hex) which is 160 decimal. Divided by 20 is 8 and that is the commanded current.

Data2 is 03(hex) and Data3 is 20(hex) which is 0320(hex) equals 800(decimal) divided by 2 is 400vdc.

Charging at 10A and to 410V

0x304 4 0x40 0xC8 0x03 0x34

Current measurement is in returned message 0x212 data byte0 and data byte1 as a 16 bit integer, then divide that by 158 to read actual output current.

Charger really needs liquid cooling as it gets hot quickly when charging at 8A.
[[File:Ampera Volt gen1 charger.jpg|thumb]]

[[Category:OEM]] [[Category:Chevrolet]] [[Category:Opel]] [[Category:Charger]]

EV Conversion Parts

2022-10-12T00:56:04Z

Mark: Added link to Batteries page, and to BMW Hybrid Battery Pack

== Motors ==

=== AC Induction Motors ===
* Siemens 1PV5135-4WS14

=== PMSM (Permanent Magnet Synchronous Motors) ===
These Requires [[Using FOC Software|FOC Firmware]].
* [[Configuration Files#Nissan Leaf Motor|Nissan Leaf EM57 (Gen 2)]]
* [[Configuration Files#Nissan Leaf Motor|Nissan Leaf EM61]] (Gen 1)
* Remy HVH-250

 There is a more general [[Motor List|motor list]] as well.

== Batteries ==
See the [[Batteries]] page for additional information.

CALB 
LG Chem - [[BMW Hybrid Battery Pack|BMW Hybrid]] 
LG Chem - BMW I3 
LG Chem - Chevy Volt 
LG Chem - Chrysler Pacifica Hybrid 
Tesla 

== Brakes ==

=== '''Vacuum Boosted''' ===

===== '''Vacuum Pumps''' =====
Vacuum pumps are available via several OEM and 3rd party manufacturers. Some options may include:
* [https://leedbrakes.com/p-33752-leed-brakes-bandit-series-vacuum-pump-kits.html Leed Brakes Bandit series] (apparently runs quiet)
* [https://www.aeroflowperformance.com/af49-1050-twin-piston-brake-vacuum-pump Aeroflow Performance Twin Piston Vacuum Pump Kit]

==== '''Vacuum Sensors:''' ====
* BOSCH 0 265 005 331 / 13581083
** Pin 3 - 5V
** Pin 2 - Gnd
** Pin 1 - Value - 0.48v under no vacuum
** Seems to have checkvalve built in.

=== '''Electrically Boosted:''' ===
There are a couple of options for electrically boosted braking systems, with one of the most popular being the [https://www.bosch-mobility-solutions.com/en/products-and-services/passenger-cars-and-light-commercial-vehicles/driving-safety-systems/brake-booster/ibooster/ Bosch iBooster].

More info on using the iBooster is available [https://www.evcreate.nl/electric-power-brakes/ here], and pinouts for the Tesla versions [https://www.evcreate.nl/wiring-the-tesla-ibooster/ here]

==== iBooster gen1 connectors: ====
Main connector (26-pin): Bosch "EuCon" 26p

* Main housing: 1928405762
* Cover: 1928405765
* Pins: Bosch BTC Terminal
** 1928498807 - BTC 4.8 / Terminal Sn / > 2.5 - 4.0 mm² (main power: pins 1 & 9)
** 1928498806 - BTC 2.8 / Terminal Sn / 1.5 - 2.5 mm² (constant power: pin 17)
** 1928498705 - BTC 1.5 / Terminal Sn / 0.35 - 0.5 mm² (ignition power: pin 20; signal pins 2, 8, 22, 23)
** 1928498805 - BTC 1.5 / Terminal Sn / 0.5 - 1.0 mm² (larger diameter alternative to 1928498705 above)
* Seals: Bosch BTC
** 1928301086 - BTC 4.8 / Seal / Blue (∅ 3.4 - ∅ 3.7 mm)
** 1928301206 - BTC 2.8 / Seal / Reddish Brown (∅ 2.0 - ∅ 2.7 mm)
** 1928301083 - BTC 1.5 / Seal / Grey (∅ 1.6 - ∅ 1.9 mm)
* Plugs: Bosch BTC
** 1928301207 - BTC 2.8 / Plug / Green
** 1928301087 - BTC 1.5 / Plug / White

Sensor connector (4-pin): TE MQS

* Housing: 1-967640-1
* Pins: 5-965906-5 (20 - 18 AWG)
* Seals: 1-967067-1 (∅ 1.4 - ∅ 2.1 mm)

==== iBooster Sourcing ====
{| class="wikitable"
|+VAG (VW, Audi, Porsche) part numbers:
!Part Number
!Generation
!Models available in
|-
|[https://parts.vw.com/p/65932554/5QE614105AH.html 5QE614105AH]
|
|Volkswagen e-Golf (2016-2018)
Audi A3 Sportback e-tron (2017)
|-
|5QE614105AK
|Gen 1
|Volkswagen e-Golf (2016-2018)
Volkswagen Passat GTE (2017)

Volkswagen Golf GTE (2017)
|-
|[https://parts.vw.com/p/74221192/5QE614105AN.html 5QE614105AN]
|Gen 2
|Volkswagen e-Golf (2018-2019)
|-
|[https://parts.vw.com/p/71928656/5QE614105AQ.html 5QE614105AQ]
|Gen 2
|Volkswagen e-Golf (2018-2019)
|-
|[https://parts.vw.com/p/65932554/5QE614105S.html 5QE614105S]
|
|Volkswagen e-Golf (2016-2018)
Audi A3 Sportback e-tron (2017)
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+Tesla part numbers:
!Part Number
!Generation
!Models available in
|-
|1037123-00-A
|Gen 1
|Tesla Model S
Tesla Model X
|-
|1037123-00-B
|Gen 1
|Tesla Model S
Tesla Model X
|-
|1044671-00-D
|
|Tesla Model 3
|-
|1044671-00-E
|Gen 2
|Tesla Model 3
|}
An alternative list (mostly the same) of iBooster donors can be found here: https://www.evcreate.nl/ibooster-donor-vehicles/

== Charger ==
[[Battery Charging|Built-In]] 
Chevy Volt / Lear 
[[Tesla Model S/X Charger|Tesla Gen 2 10kW(?)]] 
[[Tesla Model 3 Charger/DCDC ("PCS")|Tesla PCS]]

[[Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV]]

== Contactors ==
[[Panasonic AEV14012 Contactor|Panasonic AEV14012]]

== DC/DC ==
Chevy Volt / Lear 
Prius Inverters

tesla model s

== High Voltage Junction Box ==
Building a junction box

== Power Steering ==
[[Opel Electric Power Steering Column]]

[[Opel Power Steering Pump]]

[[Toyota Prius Electric Power Assist Steering]]

[[VW Electromechanical Power Steering Rack]]

VW Hybrid Battery Packs

2022-10-12T00:08:58Z

Mark: Remove "pre charge relay", which was mistakenly inserted at the beginning of the article

Information on reusing VW Golf/Passat GTE hybrid battery Packs.

== Specification Overview ==

=== Passat GTE ===
The 9.9 KWH Passat GTE battery pack contains 96S 28AH Samsung cells arranged in to 4 modules of 24S with a liquid cooled heatsink down the middle.

Note: Battery capacity has been increased to 13kwhr in circa 2019 (assumed to be 37ah cells).

=== Golf GTE ===
The Golf GTE battery pack has a plastic top cover, containing 8.7 KWH Panasonic cells arranged in to 4 modules of 24S with a liquid cooled heatsink down the middle.

The external signals are via a 14 pin connector (Sumitomo 6189-7103)
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!Pin
!Colour
!Notes
!
|-
|1
|Orange & Black
|CAN H - Power Train
|
|-
|2
|Orange & Brown
|CAN L - Power Train
|
|-
|3
|Blue
|Airbag Control Module
|
|-
|4
|Purple & Yellow
|Pilot line (In)
|
|-
|5
|Purple & Yellow
|Coolant Value
|
|-
|6
|Red & Grey
|12v 30 amp
|
|-
|7
|Green
|Coolant Pump
|
|-
|8
|Black & Green
|12v (IGN)
|Fuse 49 on fuse holder C
|-
|9
|Brown
|Earth
|
|-
|10
|Red & Grey
|12v 30amp Fuse
|
|-
|11
|Black & Green
|Pilot Line (out)
|connects to the HV connector interconnect, then BMS master, then Pilot In, there should be 150ohm resistor instead of the other components
|-
|12
|Black
|Airbag Control Module
|
|-
|13
|Orange & Grey
|CAN H - Hybrid
|
|-
|14
|Orange & Brown
|CAN L - Hybrid
|
|}

=== E-Golf ===
The 35.8kWh e-Golf pack is 88s3p, 111ah (37ah per cell) at 323v nominal with cells manufactured by Samsung SDI in contrast to the previous iteration of e-Golf that used Panasonic cells. The pack uses 17 blocks that look the same as GTE blocks however they are 4s3p vs 12s1p, in addition there are also 10 half sized blocks (2s3p) used in the make up to better fill up the transmission tunnel when the pack is bolted up to the under side of the vehicle. An extra complication over the GTEs is that rather than having a slave node in every block there are 8x 4s blocks containing slave boards while the other 19x blocks just contain cell taps and temperature sensors.

In Volkswagen terminology the cell tap blocks are called 'slave modules', the slave node blocks are called 'master modules' and the BMS master consists of unit J840 - Battery Regulation Control Unit and unit J497 Module Monitor Control Unit. Just to really confuse everyone...

Recomended reading - VAG SSP 586 - Volkswagens Self Study Program for the e-Crafter. The e-Crafter uses the 35.8kWh e-Golf battery pack while the actual SSP for the e-Golf (VAG SSP 530) still refers to 21.2kWh Panasonic pack.
{| class="wikitable"
|'''Pin'''
|'''Colour'''
|'''Connected to external to pack'''
|'''Connected to internal to pack'''
|-
|T20q/1
|sw/bl
|PIOLT LINE must form a circuit with T20q/14 (J840 T32j/5)
|HV connector contacts – J840 T32j/21
|-
|T20q/2
|gn
|Maintenance plug for high voltage system, 12v+ when connected
|Junction – J840 T32j/32 + J497 T18c/1,T18c/2
|-
|T20q/3
|ge
|15a Ignition Live Power
|Junction – J840 T32j/14 + J497 T18c/6
|-
|T20q/4
|ge/rt
|Drivetrain CAN-bus High (diagnostic connection)
|J840 T32j/3
|-
|T20q/5
|ge/br
|Drivetrain CAN-bus Low (diagnostic connection)
|J840 T32j/4
|-
|T20q/6
|bl/rt
|Airbag control unit – SIG+
|J840 T32j/13
|-
|T20q/7
|bl/ge
|Airbag control unit – SIG-
|J840 T32j/29
|-
|T20q/8
|
|
|
|-
|T20q/9
|br
|Earth
|Junction - J840 T32j/16,/30 + J497 T18c/8,/9,/18 + J1068 T10/1
|-
|T20q/10
|or/sw
|Hybrid CAN-bus High
|J840 T32j/18
|-
|T20q/11
|or/br
|Hybrid CAN-bus Low
|J840 T32j/19
|-
|T20q/12
|rt
|30a Permanent Live
|Junction - J840 T32j/17 + J497 T18c/10
|-
|T20q/13
|
|
|
|-
|T20q/14
|sw/gn
|PIOLT LINE must form a circuit with T20q/1 (J840 T32j/21)
|J840 T32j/5
|-
|T20q/15
|
|
|
|-
|T20q/16
|
|
|
|-
|T20q/17
|
|
|
|-
|T20q/18
|
|
|
|-
|T20q/19
|
|
|
|-
|T20q/20
|
|
|}

== Disassembly ==
I Can Not understate the importance of Insulation when dealing With High Voltages, Both of your tools and yourself of course! Also ensuring that we do everything to prevent a Shor Circuit.

All Metal tools were covered in Tape And/Or Heat Shrink so that in the event of a drop there would not be a dangerous short circuit, and also as an added layer of insulation from the battery to myself!

I only ever toughed the HV contacts when I absolutely had to, no point taking chances!

Useful/Tools used:
# Torx & Socket Drive Set (insulated with shrink wrap/tape)
# Electric Screwdriver
# Magnet on a stick (Covered in tape of course)
# Insulation Tape & Duct Tape
# Gloves … I used nitrile gloves, Electrician’s gloves & some garden gloves so I didn’t tear the electrical gloves.
# Electrical screwdrivers & a normal screwdrivers covered in insulation tape.
# Voltmeter
# Insulated shoes
# Nylon straps the battery came tied to the pallet.
# Emergency help on hand in case of electrocution (including gloves for them & I attached one of the nylon straps to myself so I could be pulled away)
# Work in the dry obviously
[[File:A09A7625.jpg|none|thumb]]

After Undoing all of the torx bolt on the top the cover can be removed … look at those precision straps to hold the modules down.
[[File:A09A7628.jpg|none|thumb]]

At this point after prodding about underneath the foam and looking down the sides I need access to the bottom to unbolt the modules, find that un-loved screwdriver (covered in paint in my case on top of my daughter’s rabbit hutch) and use gentle persuasion to remove the rubber plugs to get access to the torx bolts and remove them. Be very careful this thing is damn heavy you don’t wan this to land on your toes or any part of your body
[[File:A09A7632.jpg|none|thumb]]
[[File:A09A7633.jpg|none|thumb]]
Now back to the top side … remove all the foam, disconnect all of the cables you can (I could not remove the module bms plugs). Happily my module sat at 355 volts (88.8v per module) so not too low at about 3.7v per cell!

I then started tackling all of the bolts holding down the modules in the middle, however then came the ones that were under the Contactor box.

The scary bit where I disconnected the HV connections from the Contactor box thing, immediately covering with insulation tape, first negative, positive, then I tackled the mid pack connection (not shown in this photo). Then I removed all of the connections from the contactor box to allow it the removed to allow access to the torx bolts obstructed by it.
[[File:A09A7634.jpg|none|thumb]]
Now back to the top side … remove all the foam, disconnect all of the cables you can (I could not remove the module bms plugs). Happily my module sat at 355 volts (88.8v per module) so not too low at about 3.7v per cell!

I then started tackling all of the bolts holding down the modules in the middle, however then came the ones that were under the Contactor box.

The scary bit where I disconnected the HV connections from the Contactor box thing, immediately covering with insulation tape, first negative, positive, then I tackled the mid pack connection (not shown in this photo). Then I removed all of the connections from the contactor box to allow it the removed to allow access to the torx bolts obstructed by it.

=== Golf GTE ===
The same safety advice as above applies, these packs are over 350V DC, this can be '''LEATHAL'''. '''DO NOT BE COMPLACENT.'''

The Golf GTE pack is a heafty aluminium box with a plastic lid. The lid is covered in a very thin aluminium layer. I found it quite a task to break in, there's a lot of silicone around the perimeter. I used a mixture of breaking the cover and levering it up as much as possible and cutting the silicone.
[[File:20210209 165419.jpg|none|thumb]]
Under the plastic is a blanket covering the modules. The goodies are underneath.
[[File:20210209_182058.jpg|none|thumb]]The next task I did was to remove the main leads from the battery pack to the contactor box. These just lift up to disconnect, they are pretty well insulated but take no chances, they are direct to the modules, '''always live.''' With both of these removed you can begin un bolting the contactor box.
[[File:20210210 125754.jpg|alt=Main terminal|none|thumb|Main terminal]]

=== E-Golf ===
The same safety advice as above applies, these packs are over 350V DC, this can be '''LEATHAL'''. '''DO NOT BE COMPLACENT. In addition the e-Golf has a capacitor across positive and negative inside the contactor box ENSURE THIS IS DRAINED using an appropriate resistor.'''

The e-Golf has a steel base plate that the modules are bolted to and a fiber glass top cover that is held down with a handful of fixings and a lot of very tough mastic. Using a craft knife with a retractable blade you can set the depth to avoid cutting into anything beyond the mastic.
[[File:Unopened e-Golf pack.jpg|thumb|512x512px|Sealant cut, top ready for removal.|alt=|none]]

The bolts surrounding the HV and LV connector plate at the front have to be removed and also the HV connector plate at the rear that connects to the DC rapid charge before the top cover can be removed.
[[File:E-Golf pack cover off 1.jpg|thumb|511x511px|Cover removed ready for module disconection.|alt=|none]]

[[File:E-Golf pack cover off 2.jpg|thumb|512x512px|Veiwed from the other side.|alt=|none]]

[[File:E-Golf pack cover off 3.jpg|thumb|512x512px|20 pin low voltage connector and HV connector.|alt=|none]]

As there is no HV service disconnect and all of the battery connections are well torqued TX bolts, breaking the pack down to a safe working voltage is a serious undertaking. Once again there is a capacitor across main battery positive and negative THIS MUST BE DISHCHARGED SAFELY, IT ALONE IS LEATHAL.
== BMS ==
The BMS slaves on the modules can be re-used using SimpBMS running on a Teensy Microcontroller.

https://github.com/Tom-evnut/SimpBMS

https://github.com/Tom-evnut/VW-bms

Each half-module will need connecting to the can bus for SimpBMS, top right as you are looking at it is pin 1 - GND, move down and skip one pin to 3 - Enable (12V), move down again and skip one to pin 5 - 12v. Top left is pin 6 CAN HIGH, and the one under it is pin 7 CAN LOW.
[[File:20210211 162238.jpg|none|thumb]]

The BMS has to send a CAN Frame with ''0x0BA'' to request the module data.
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!ID
!Data
|-
|0x0BA
|0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00
|-
|0x0BA
|0x45 0x01 0x28 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x30
|}

With a little experimentation the 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 is not required to get the cell voltages, a message with just 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x10 seems to be sufficient. So it seems bit 4 of the 8th byte is a flag to send voltages.

The Modules will respond by sending out frames with the IDS ''0x1CC'' to 0x''1D4''

There's a DBC file https://github.com/jamiejones85/DBC-files/blob/master/VW-GTE-HV-Battery.dbc for use with SavvyCan

== Battery Modules ==

=== '''Passat GTE''' ===
The Battery Module weighs 23.4 Kg, (Add module dimensions), There is a BMS connector (TE 1-1670990-1) on both sides of the the module.
{| class="wikitable"
|+
|[[File:VW Passat Module Weight.jpg|thumb|Module Weight]]
|[[File:BMS Board.jpg|thumb|BMS Board]]
|
|}

=== Golf GTE ===
Each module consists of 2 rows of 12 cells, with a liquid cooling plate between then. Each block of 12 cells is 1086Wh, so each module is 2172Wh.

Roughly 240mm wide, 440mm in length and 150mm in height, each module weights []. One side has a mounting bracket close to the base, the other has one towards the top.

[[File:20210211 182621.jpg|alt=Module Label|none|thumb|Module Label]]
{| class="wikitable"
|+
![[File:20210211 182635.jpg|alt=Lower Mounting bracket|thumb|Lower Mounting bracket]]
![[File:20210211 182629.jpg|thumb|Higher mounting bracket]]
|-
! colspan="2" |[[File:20210213 173552.jpg|none|thumb|alt=BMS slave Board|BMS slave Board]]
|-
![[File:20210224 112245.jpg|alt=BMS Master Top|center|thumb|BMS Master Top]]
![[File:20210224 112252.jpg|alt=BMS Master Bottom|center|thumb|BMS Master Bottom]]
|}

=== E-Golf ===
<gallery widths="450">
File:E-Golf Slave board.jpg|Part 1
File:E-Golf Slave board part 2.jpg|Part 2
</gallery>The e-Golf slave board has the same 10 pin connector, seen on the right, as the GTE but there is a further 10 pin connector (cell taps from the cell tap blocks) and an 8 pin connector (temperature sensors from the cell tap blocks) on the left.

== Cooling ==

The Battery Cells are cooled by a liquid cold plate in the middle of the module, the outside diameter of the metal pipe connector is 8.0mm
{| class="wikitable"
|+
|[[File:VW Passat GTE Battery Module 1.jpg|thumb|Battery Module cooling connectors]]
|[[File:Original Pipework Conector.jpg|thumb|200x200px|Original Pipework Connector]]
|}

== Contactors/Pre-Charge ==

=== Passat GTE ===
The Control box contains
* PEC 300A 450VDC fuse
* 2 x Contactors (Data Matrix Code '#3Q0915646B ###100117*288 LS301CRFIFO*=', Non Economiser Type Current Draw 0.556A@12.8V)
* 1 x Pre-Charge Relay (Data Matrix Code '#3Q0915646A ###281116*288 LS301HGC9KB*=')
* 1 x Pre-Charge Resistor (Resistance TBC)
* 1 x Current Shunt (Data Matrix Code:p88970180259, Rating TBC)
* 1 x Contactor Control Board
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! rowspan="2" |[[File:A09A7763.jpg|thumb|373x373px|Contactor Box]]
![[File:Passat HV Contactor.jpg|thumb|237x237px|HV Contactor]]
![[File:Pre charge relay.jpg|alt=|thumb|259x259px|Pre Charge Relay]]
![[File:Resistor.jpg|thumb|pre charge resistor]]
|-
![[File:300a 450v Fuse.jpg|center|thumb|200x200px|Fuse]]
![[File:Shunt.jpg|alt=|thumb|200x200px|Shunt]]
![[File:Contactor Control.jpg|thumb|200x200px|Control Board]]
|}
Reusing with Open Inverter controlling the contactors and relay directly should be as simple as supplying 12v and switching the ground as required.

The control board has the following connector(s)
{| class="wikitable"
|+
|Control board Interface Connector
|
|-
|[[File:TE 1-963539-1.jpg|thumb|TE 1-963539-1]]
|
|}
The pinout is as follows:
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!Pin
!Function
!Wire Colour
!Notes
|-
|1
| +12v
|Green
|Live when service plug installed
|-
|2
| +12v
|Green
|Live when service plug installed
|-
|3
|
|
|
|-
|4
|COMs
|Black/Grey
|COM line to J840 (maybe LIN?)
|-
|5
|
|
|
|-
|6
|GND
|Brown
|GND to battery casing
|-
|7
|
|
|
|-
|8
|GND
|Brown/Red
|Vehicle GND
|-
|9
|GND
|Brown/Red
|Vehicle GND
|-
|10
| +12V
|Red
|KL30 (permenant live)
|-
|11
|
|
|
|-
|12
|
|
|
|-
|13
|
|
|
|-
|14
|CANH
|Orange/Blue
|120 OHM, internal to pack only
|-
|15
|CANL
|Orange/Brown
|120 OHM, internal to pack only
|-
|16
| +12V
|Yellow
|KL15 (ignition live)
|-
|17
|
|
|
|-
|18
|GND
|Brown/Red
|Vehicle GND
|}

Pins 1, 2 (green), 16 (yellow) & 10 (red) are required for can bus to output

Can output ...
{| class="wikitable"
|CAN ID
|Function
|Notes
|-
|000000BB
|Shunt, Bytes 1 & 2 (16bit signed integer)
|Multiply by 0.00625 to get amps
|-
|18FED007
|
|
|-
|0000015B
|
|
|-
|18FED008
|
|
|-
|18FED009
|Bytes 0 & 1 (16bit integer)
|Possible Candidate Voltage @ Fuse
|-
|18FED00A
|
|
|-
|18FED003
|
|
|-
|18FED004
|
|
|-
|1A55545F
|
|
|-
|16A95419
|
|
|-
|18FED006
|
|
|-
|18FED002
|
|
|-
|18FED005
|
|
|}
Early DBC file only reads Shunt Current https://drive.google.com/file/d/1iG0pXk8BdoYc2XFG5V1_bZaf9pgPySye/view?usp=sharing

sample Saavycan capture with 5amps load https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zqkIfVTC2r4Nmz_XZJmQcCdNYnU14yxu/view?usp=sharing

BMS Control Module

(This is not needed when used with SIMPBMS, but may provide a source of can information for controlling the contactor board)
{| class="wikitable"
|+
|[[File:BMS MODULE.jpg|thumb|BMS Control Module]]
|[[File:BMS CTL BOARD.jpg|thumb|BMS MASTER PCB]]
|[[File:BMS MASTER WIRES.jpg|thumb|208x208px|6 Twisted Pairs (12)]]
|}
CAN ID'S outputted on Control Board CAN Line
{| class="wikitable"
|CAN ID
|Function
|Notes
|-
|000000BA
|Module Wake up
|
|-
|1BFFDA1A
|
|
|-
|1BFFDA19
|
|
|-
|1A55540A
|
|
|-
|1A55540B
|
|
|-
|1A55540C
|
|
|-
|1A55540D
|
|
|-
|1A555410
|
|
|-
|1A555411
|
|
|-
|1A555412
|
|
|-
|1A555413
|
|
|-
|1A555414
|
|
|-
|1A555415
|
|
|-
|1A555416
|
|
|-
|1A555417
|
|
|-
|1A555418
|
|
|-
|1A555419
|
|
|-
|1A55541E
|
|
|-
|1A55541F
|
|
|}

sample Saavycan capture from BMS Master (with nothing else connected):

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EChKUwvZnYf_ncV8dCkwt0RWIQ2EQWO8/view?usp=sharing

=== Golf GTE ===
The control box contains a
* PEC 250A 450VDC fuse
* 2 x Panasonic AEV14012 M28 contactors https://docs.rs-online.com/6251/0900766b80e1fbed.pdf, yazaki 7283-1020 is the connector (would recommend a better contactor, I've welded one of these closed pretty easily)
* pre-charge relay and resistor,
* Current shunt.
{| class="wikitable"
|+
![[File:20210210 140247.jpg|alt=Golf GTE Fuse|none|thumb|Golf GTE Fuse]]
![[File:20210210 140301.jpg|alt=Main Control Box|none|thumb|Main Control Box]]
![[File:20210210 140438.jpg|alt=Pre-charge relay|none|thumb|Pre-charge relay]]
|-
![[File:20210210 152916.jpg|alt=Contactor|thumb|Contactor]]
![[File:20210325 222043.jpg|none|thumb|Amphenol Radsoc 8mm]]PN: N 02 080 6121 002 (unconfirmed)
!
|}

Reusing with Open Inverter controlling the contactors and relay directly should be as simple as supplying 12v and switching the ground as required.

The main control board has 2 connectors, one end looks to be high voltage and the other has the external connections and precharge/contactor controls.
[[File:20210212 135323.jpg|none|thumb]]
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!Pin
!Function
!Wire Colour
!Additional
|-
|1
|Connects to battery case
|Black
|Ring terminal on the end, maybe for isolation test? Seems to output 5v.
|-
|2
|Gnd
|Black
|
|-
|3
|N/C
|
|
|-
|4
|CAN H
|White
| rowspan="2" |125ohm resistance between them. IC501 - TJA1042
https://www.nxp.com/docs/en/data-sheet/TJA1042.pdf
|-
|5
|CAN L
|Black
|-
|6-9
|N/C
|
|
|-
|10
|12v
|Red
|12V input.
|-
|11
|12v
|Red
|12V input. When supplied, IC204 begins outputting 5V
|-
|12
|12v ignition
|White
|Looks to be ignition 12v
|-
|13
|N/C
|
|
|-
|14
|12v
|White
|Enables the 12v to the contactors.
|-
|15-19
|N/C
|
|
|-
|20
|Pre charge relay switched gnd
|Black
|Q409 is responsible for switching this to ground.
|-
|21
|Contactor switched gnd
|Black
|Q408 is responsible for switching this to ground.
|-
|22
|Contactor switched gnd
|Black
|Q408 is responsible for switching this to ground.
|-
|23
|12v for precharge relay
|Yellow
|Isolated from 12v supply, IC401
|-
|24
|12v for contactor
|Blue
|Isolated from 12v supply, IC401
|-
|25
|12v for contactor
|Red
|Isolated from 12v supply, IC401
|-
|26
|N/C
|
|
|}

High voltage side has a LTC1391 (https://www.analog.com/en/products/ltc1391.html) 12bit ADC, at a guess relating to voltage and current measurements.

2 x UM5401 Quad-Channel Isolators with Integrated DC-to-DC Converter

2 x V216HC4 unknown

[[File:20210329 134301.jpg|none|thumb|IC401 - Connects to pin 5 on the main processor, this appears to enable the 12v supply.]]

=== E-Golf ===
All the components here appear to be the same as the passat GTE, notable exceptions:

1x PEC 400A fuse

4x 3Q0915646B contactors (2x for CCS)

1x Pre-Charge Relay 3Q0915646A

1x Pre-Charge Resistor

1x Voltage based Shunt

1x Capacitor

1x BMS Master Module, J840

1x Contactor Control Board, J497
[[File:E-Golf contactor block.jpg|none|thumb|452x452px]]
J497 Module Monitor Control Unit
[[File:J497.jpg|none|thumb]]
{| class="wikitable"
| colspan="5" |'''Pin out for J497'''
|-
| colspan="1" rowspan="18" |Low voltage external connector
|T18c/1
|gn
|Service Plug
|KL30a when service plug inserted
|-
|T18c/2
|gn
|Service Plug
|KL30a when service plug inserted
|-
|T18c/3
|
|
|
|-
|T18c/4
|sw
|J840 Link
|direct line to J840
|-
|T18c/5
|
|
|
|-
|T18c/6
|br
|GND
|Ground of battery casing
|-
|T18c/7
|
|
|
|-
|T18c/8
|br
|GND
|Vehicle Earth
|-
|T18c/9
|br
|GND
|Vehicle Earth
|-
|T18c/10
|rt
|KL30a
|
|-
|T18c/11
|
|
|
|-
|T18c/12
|
|
|
|-
|T18c/13
|or/br
|Hybrid CAN-l
|CAN bus for cell modules
|-
|T18c/14
|or/bl
|Hybrid CAN-h
|CAN bus for cell modules
|-
|T18c/15
|
|
|
|-
|T18c/16
|ge
|KL15a
|Ignition live
|-
|T18c/17
|
|
|
|-
|T18c/18
|br
|GND
|Vehicle Earth
|-
|
|
|
|
|
|-
| colspan="1" rowspan="12" |High voltage tap/sense lines
|T12i/1a
|ws/ge
|HV- tap
|HV- tap output side drive contactor
|-
|T12i/2a
|vi
|HV- tap
|HV- tap battery negative
|-
|T12i/3a
|ws
|HV+ tap
|HV+ tap input side precharge relay
|-
|T12i/4a
|rt/bl
|HV+ tap
|HV+ tap battery positive post fuse
|-
|T12i/5a
|gr
|SIG
|HV+ shunt high
|-
|T12i/6a
|
|
|
|-
|T12i/1b
|gn
|HV+ tap
|HV+ tap output side drive contactor
|-
|T12i/2b
|ws/sw
|HV- tap
|HV- tap external side aux contactor
|-
|T12i/3b
|rt/sw
|HV+ tap
|HV+ tap battery positive
|-
|T12i/4b
|ws/bl
|HV+ tap
|HV+ tap external side aux contactor
|-
|T12i/5b
|gr/sw
|SIG
|HV+ shunt low
|-
|T12i/6b
|
|
|
|-
|
|
|
|
|
|-
| colspan="1" rowspan="12" |Low voltage contactor drive
|T12j/1
|br
|GND
|Coil – for Precharge Relay
|-
|T12j/2
|br
|GND
|Coil – for HV+ Drive contactor
|-
|T12j/3
|br
|GND
|Coil – for HV- Drive contactor
|-
|T12j/4
|br
|GND
|Coil – for HV+ Aux contactor
|-
|T12j/5
|br
|GND
|Coil – for HV- Aux contactor
|-
|T12j/6
|
|
|
|-
|T12j/7
|sw
|CTRL
|Coil + for Precharge Relay
|-
|T12j/8
|ge
|CTRL
|Coil + for HV+ Drive contactor
|-
|T12j/9
|rt/ge
|CTRL
|Coil + for HV- Drive contactor
|-
|T12j/10
|gn
|CTRL
|Coil + for HV+ Aux contactor
|-
|T12j/11
|
|
|
|-
|T12j/12
|gr
|CTRL
|Coil + for HV- Aux contactor
|-
|
|
|
|
|
|-
| colspan="1" rowspan="4" |Battery Tap
|T4bx/1
|
|
|
|-
|T4bx/2
|
|
|
|-
|T4bx/3
|bl
|Centre Tap
|Centre cell tap from HV battery
|-
|T4bx/4
|
|
|}
J840 Battery Regulation Control Unit
[[File:J840.jpg|none|thumb]]
{| class="wikitable"
| colspan="4" |'''J840 pin out'''
|-
|T32j/1
|or/bl
|Hybrid CAN-h
|To cell modules and J497
|-
|T32j/2
|or/br
|Hybrid CAN-l
|To cell modules and J497
|-
|T32j/3
|ge/rt
|Power CAN-h
|To powertrain CAN bus
|-
|T32j/4
|ge/br
|Power CAN-l
|To powertrain CAN bus
|-
|T32j/5
|sw/gn
|PIOLT
|HV connection PIOLT line (must form circuit with T32j/21)
|-
|T32j/6
|
|
|
|-
|T32j/7
|
|
|
|-
|T32j/8
|
|
|
|-
|T32j/9
|
|
|
|-
|T32j/10
|gr
|Module KL30a
|12v+ power to cell modules
|-
|T32j/11
|
|
|
|-
|T32j/12
|gn/rt
|Enable
|Cell module enable power to first module
|-
|T32j/13
|vi
|SIG+
|Battery isolation igniter
|-
|T32j/14
|ge
|KL15a
|Ignition Live power
|-
|T32j/15
|br
|GND
|31 Earth connection
|-
|T32j/16
|br
|GND
|31 Earth connection (battery case)
|-
|T32j/17
|rt
|KL30a
|Permenant live
|-
|T32j/18
|or/sw
|Hybrid CAN-h
|To hybrid CAN bus
|-
|T32j/19
|or/br
|Hybrid CAN-l
|To hybrid CAN bus
|-
|T32j/20
|sw
|J497 link
|Direct line to J497
|-
|T32j/21
|sw/bl
|PIOLT
|HV connection PIOLT line (must form circuit with T32j/5)
|-
|T32j/22
|
|
|
|-
|T32j/23
|
|
|
|-
|T32j/24
|
|
|
|-
|T32j/25
|
|
|
|-
|T32j/26
|
|
|
|-
|T32j/27
|
|
|
|-
|T32j/28
|gn/bl
|Enable Check
|Enable signal return from last cell module
|-
|T32j/29
|vi/sw
|SIG-
|Battery isolation igniter
|-
|T32j/30
|br
|GND
|31 Earth connection (battery case)
|-
|T32j/31
|
|
|
|-
|T32j/32
|gn
|Service Plug
|KL30a power through HV service disconnect
|}

== Using Multiple Packs ==
'''Note: This section is very very rough draft!!and needs a lot more work!'''

Currently NO Turn Key solutions exist for using more than 1 pack, however .... The items below have NEVER been tested and could only be described as experimental !!

* The next release of SIMP BMS (assuming to be V3) shall use a teensy 4 which will have 3 canbuses however this is in the early stages of development.
* It could be possible to use 2 sets of SIMPBMS however they would exist on 2 separate can buses, this would not to be easy task to implement.
* It could be possible to translate the CAN id's from the second pack by using a can in the middle and still use a single SIMPBMS however this has never been tested.

The can id's outputted from the modules are fixed, the ranges used are from 01B0 to 01CE (432-462).

If these CAN id's were translated (from the second pack) using a can in the middle device to id's to a range like 01D0 to 01EE (464-494) a single SIMPBMS could be used as there is an undocumented code allowing for extended id's within the VW SIMPBMS code.

Sample can id modifying code can be found in colin kidders git hub for the arduino due

https://github.com/collin80/due_can/tree/master/examples/CAN_TrafficModifier

Damian McGuire has created a can in the middle device

https://github.com/damienmaguire/CAN-BUS-Man-In-The-Middle

BMS code showing extended id's

https://github.com/Tom-evnut/VW-bms/blob/master/VWBMSV2/BMSModuleManager.cpp

Rough Draft of CAN ID translation concept, important note the reverse path needs adding.

There is a can id that simp bms sends out (00BA) that wakes up the modules, this needs to be passed through as is.
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!
!
!
!
|-
|
|[[File:Block diagram can id translation (draft).jpg|thumb|Block Diagram can id translation (draft)]]
|
|
|-
|
|
|
|
|-
|
|
|
|
|}

[[Category:OEM]] [[Category:VAG]] [[Category:Battery]]

VW Hybrid Battery Packs

2022-10-12T00:08:34Z

Mark: Undo revision 2865 by Mark (talk)

pre charge relayInformation on reusing VW Golf/Passat GTE hybrid battery Packs.

== Specification Overview ==

=== Passat GTE ===
The 9.9 KWH Passat GTE battery pack contains 96S 28AH Samsung cells arranged in to 4 modules of 24S with a liquid cooled heatsink down the middle.

Note: Battery capacity has been increased to 13kwhr in circa 2019 (assumed to be 37ah cells).

=== Golf GTE ===
The Golf GTE battery pack has a plastic top cover, containing 8.7 KWH Panasonic cells arranged in to 4 modules of 24S with a liquid cooled heatsink down the middle.

The external signals are via a 14 pin connector (Sumitomo 6189-7103)
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!Pin
!Colour
!Notes
!
|-
|1
|Orange & Black
|CAN H - Power Train
|
|-
|2
|Orange & Brown
|CAN L - Power Train
|
|-
|3
|Blue
|Airbag Control Module
|
|-
|4
|Purple & Yellow
|Pilot line (In)
|
|-
|5
|Purple & Yellow
|Coolant Value
|
|-
|6
|Red & Grey
|12v 30 amp
|
|-
|7
|Green
|Coolant Pump
|
|-
|8
|Black & Green
|12v (IGN)
|Fuse 49 on fuse holder C
|-
|9
|Brown
|Earth
|
|-
|10
|Red & Grey
|12v 30amp Fuse
|
|-
|11
|Black & Green
|Pilot Line (out)
|connects to the HV connector interconnect, then BMS master, then Pilot In, there should be 150ohm resistor instead of the other components
|-
|12
|Black
|Airbag Control Module
|
|-
|13
|Orange & Grey
|CAN H - Hybrid
|
|-
|14
|Orange & Brown
|CAN L - Hybrid
|
|}

=== E-Golf ===
The 35.8kWh e-Golf pack is 88s3p, 111ah (37ah per cell) at 323v nominal with cells manufactured by Samsung SDI in contrast to the previous iteration of e-Golf that used Panasonic cells. The pack uses 17 blocks that look the same as GTE blocks however they are 4s3p vs 12s1p, in addition there are also 10 half sized blocks (2s3p) used in the make up to better fill up the transmission tunnel when the pack is bolted up to the under side of the vehicle. An extra complication over the GTEs is that rather than having a slave node in every block there are 8x 4s blocks containing slave boards while the other 19x blocks just contain cell taps and temperature sensors.

In Volkswagen terminology the cell tap blocks are called 'slave modules', the slave node blocks are called 'master modules' and the BMS master consists of unit J840 - Battery Regulation Control Unit and unit J497 Module Monitor Control Unit. Just to really confuse everyone...

Recomended reading - VAG SSP 586 - Volkswagens Self Study Program for the e-Crafter. The e-Crafter uses the 35.8kWh e-Golf battery pack while the actual SSP for the e-Golf (VAG SSP 530) still refers to 21.2kWh Panasonic pack.
{| class="wikitable"
|'''Pin'''
|'''Colour'''
|'''Connected to external to pack'''
|'''Connected to internal to pack'''
|-
|T20q/1
|sw/bl
|PIOLT LINE must form a circuit with T20q/14 (J840 T32j/5)
|HV connector contacts – J840 T32j/21
|-
|T20q/2
|gn
|Maintenance plug for high voltage system, 12v+ when connected
|Junction – J840 T32j/32 + J497 T18c/1,T18c/2
|-
|T20q/3
|ge
|15a Ignition Live Power
|Junction – J840 T32j/14 + J497 T18c/6
|-
|T20q/4
|ge/rt
|Drivetrain CAN-bus High (diagnostic connection)
|J840 T32j/3
|-
|T20q/5
|ge/br
|Drivetrain CAN-bus Low (diagnostic connection)
|J840 T32j/4
|-
|T20q/6
|bl/rt
|Airbag control unit – SIG+
|J840 T32j/13
|-
|T20q/7
|bl/ge
|Airbag control unit – SIG-
|J840 T32j/29
|-
|T20q/8
|
|
|
|-
|T20q/9
|br
|Earth
|Junction - J840 T32j/16,/30 + J497 T18c/8,/9,/18 + J1068 T10/1
|-
|T20q/10
|or/sw
|Hybrid CAN-bus High
|J840 T32j/18
|-
|T20q/11
|or/br
|Hybrid CAN-bus Low
|J840 T32j/19
|-
|T20q/12
|rt
|30a Permanent Live
|Junction - J840 T32j/17 + J497 T18c/10
|-
|T20q/13
|
|
|
|-
|T20q/14
|sw/gn
|PIOLT LINE must form a circuit with T20q/1 (J840 T32j/21)
|J840 T32j/5
|-
|T20q/15
|
|
|
|-
|T20q/16
|
|
|
|-
|T20q/17
|
|
|
|-
|T20q/18
|
|
|
|-
|T20q/19
|
|
|
|-
|T20q/20
|
|
|}

== Disassembly ==
I Can Not understate the importance of Insulation when dealing With High Voltages, Both of your tools and yourself of course! Also ensuring that we do everything to prevent a Shor Circuit.

All Metal tools were covered in Tape And/Or Heat Shrink so that in the event of a drop there would not be a dangerous short circuit, and also as an added layer of insulation from the battery to myself!

I only ever toughed the HV contacts when I absolutely had to, no point taking chances!

Useful/Tools used:
# Torx & Socket Drive Set (insulated with shrink wrap/tape)
# Electric Screwdriver
# Magnet on a stick (Covered in tape of course)
# Insulation Tape & Duct Tape
# Gloves … I used nitrile gloves, Electrician’s gloves & some garden gloves so I didn’t tear the electrical gloves.
# Electrical screwdrivers & a normal screwdrivers covered in insulation tape.
# Voltmeter
# Insulated shoes
# Nylon straps the battery came tied to the pallet.
# Emergency help on hand in case of electrocution (including gloves for them & I attached one of the nylon straps to myself so I could be pulled away)
# Work in the dry obviously
[[File:A09A7625.jpg|none|thumb]]

After Undoing all of the torx bolt on the top the cover can be removed … look at those precision straps to hold the modules down.
[[File:A09A7628.jpg|none|thumb]]

At this point after prodding about underneath the foam and looking down the sides I need access to the bottom to unbolt the modules, find that un-loved screwdriver (covered in paint in my case on top of my daughter’s rabbit hutch) and use gentle persuasion to remove the rubber plugs to get access to the torx bolts and remove them. Be very careful this thing is damn heavy you don’t wan this to land on your toes or any part of your body
[[File:A09A7632.jpg|none|thumb]]
[[File:A09A7633.jpg|none|thumb]]
Now back to the top side … remove all the foam, disconnect all of the cables you can (I could not remove the module bms plugs). Happily my module sat at 355 volts (88.8v per module) so not too low at about 3.7v per cell!

I then started tackling all of the bolts holding down the modules in the middle, however then came the ones that were under the Contactor box.

The scary bit where I disconnected the HV connections from the Contactor box thing, immediately covering with insulation tape, first negative, positive, then I tackled the mid pack connection (not shown in this photo). Then I removed all of the connections from the contactor box to allow it the removed to allow access to the torx bolts obstructed by it.
[[File:A09A7634.jpg|none|thumb]]
Now back to the top side … remove all the foam, disconnect all of the cables you can (I could not remove the module bms plugs). Happily my module sat at 355 volts (88.8v per module) so not too low at about 3.7v per cell!

I then started tackling all of the bolts holding down the modules in the middle, however then came the ones that were under the Contactor box.

The scary bit where I disconnected the HV connections from the Contactor box thing, immediately covering with insulation tape, first negative, positive, then I tackled the mid pack connection (not shown in this photo). Then I removed all of the connections from the contactor box to allow it the removed to allow access to the torx bolts obstructed by it.

=== Golf GTE ===
The same safety advice as above applies, these packs are over 350V DC, this can be '''LEATHAL'''. '''DO NOT BE COMPLACENT.'''

The Golf GTE pack is a heafty aluminium box with a plastic lid. The lid is covered in a very thin aluminium layer. I found it quite a task to break in, there's a lot of silicone around the perimeter. I used a mixture of breaking the cover and levering it up as much as possible and cutting the silicone.
[[File:20210209 165419.jpg|none|thumb]]
Under the plastic is a blanket covering the modules. The goodies are underneath.
[[File:20210209_182058.jpg|none|thumb]]The next task I did was to remove the main leads from the battery pack to the contactor box. These just lift up to disconnect, they are pretty well insulated but take no chances, they are direct to the modules, '''always live.''' With both of these removed you can begin un bolting the contactor box.
[[File:20210210 125754.jpg|alt=Main terminal|none|thumb|Main terminal]]

=== E-Golf ===
The same safety advice as above applies, these packs are over 350V DC, this can be '''LEATHAL'''. '''DO NOT BE COMPLACENT. In addition the e-Golf has a capacitor across positive and negative inside the contactor box ENSURE THIS IS DRAINED using an appropriate resistor.'''

The e-Golf has a steel base plate that the modules are bolted to and a fiber glass top cover that is held down with a handful of fixings and a lot of very tough mastic. Using a craft knife with a retractable blade you can set the depth to avoid cutting into anything beyond the mastic.
[[File:Unopened e-Golf pack.jpg|thumb|512x512px|Sealant cut, top ready for removal.|alt=|none]]

The bolts surrounding the HV and LV connector plate at the front have to be removed and also the HV connector plate at the rear that connects to the DC rapid charge before the top cover can be removed.
[[File:E-Golf pack cover off 1.jpg|thumb|511x511px|Cover removed ready for module disconection.|alt=|none]]

[[File:E-Golf pack cover off 2.jpg|thumb|512x512px|Veiwed from the other side.|alt=|none]]

[[File:E-Golf pack cover off 3.jpg|thumb|512x512px|20 pin low voltage connector and HV connector.|alt=|none]]

As there is no HV service disconnect and all of the battery connections are well torqued TX bolts, breaking the pack down to a safe working voltage is a serious undertaking. Once again there is a capacitor across main battery positive and negative THIS MUST BE DISHCHARGED SAFELY, IT ALONE IS LEATHAL.
== BMS ==
The BMS slaves on the modules can be re-used using SimpBMS running on a Teensy Microcontroller.

https://github.com/Tom-evnut/SimpBMS

https://github.com/Tom-evnut/VW-bms

Each half-module will need connecting to the can bus for SimpBMS, top right as you are looking at it is pin 1 - GND, move down and skip one pin to 3 - Enable (12V), move down again and skip one to pin 5 - 12v. Top left is pin 6 CAN HIGH, and the one under it is pin 7 CAN LOW.
[[File:20210211 162238.jpg|none|thumb]]

The BMS has to send a CAN Frame with ''0x0BA'' to request the module data.
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!ID
!Data
|-
|0x0BA
|0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00
|-
|0x0BA
|0x45 0x01 0x28 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x30
|}

With a little experimentation the 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 is not required to get the cell voltages, a message with just 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x10 seems to be sufficient. So it seems bit 4 of the 8th byte is a flag to send voltages.

The Modules will respond by sending out frames with the IDS ''0x1CC'' to 0x''1D4''

There's a DBC file https://github.com/jamiejones85/DBC-files/blob/master/VW-GTE-HV-Battery.dbc for use with SavvyCan

== Battery Modules ==

=== '''Passat GTE''' ===
The Battery Module weighs 23.4 Kg, (Add module dimensions), There is a BMS connector (TE 1-1670990-1) on both sides of the the module.
{| class="wikitable"
|+
|[[File:VW Passat Module Weight.jpg|thumb|Module Weight]]
|[[File:BMS Board.jpg|thumb|BMS Board]]
|
|}

=== Golf GTE ===
Each module consists of 2 rows of 12 cells, with a liquid cooling plate between then. Each block of 12 cells is 1086Wh, so each module is 2172Wh.

Roughly 240mm wide, 440mm in length and 150mm in height, each module weights []. One side has a mounting bracket close to the base, the other has one towards the top.

[[File:20210211 182621.jpg|alt=Module Label|none|thumb|Module Label]]
{| class="wikitable"
|+
![[File:20210211 182635.jpg|alt=Lower Mounting bracket|thumb|Lower Mounting bracket]]
![[File:20210211 182629.jpg|thumb|Higher mounting bracket]]
|-
! colspan="2" |[[File:20210213 173552.jpg|none|thumb|alt=BMS slave Board|BMS slave Board]]
|-
![[File:20210224 112245.jpg|alt=BMS Master Top|center|thumb|BMS Master Top]]
![[File:20210224 112252.jpg|alt=BMS Master Bottom|center|thumb|BMS Master Bottom]]
|}

=== E-Golf ===
<gallery widths="450">
File:E-Golf Slave board.jpg|Part 1
File:E-Golf Slave board part 2.jpg|Part 2
</gallery>The e-Golf slave board has the same 10 pin connector, seen on the right, as the GTE but there is a further 10 pin connector (cell taps from the cell tap blocks) and an 8 pin connector (temperature sensors from the cell tap blocks) on the left.

== Cooling ==

The Battery Cells are cooled by a liquid cold plate in the middle of the module, the outside diameter of the metal pipe connector is 8.0mm
{| class="wikitable"
|+
|[[File:VW Passat GTE Battery Module 1.jpg|thumb|Battery Module cooling connectors]]
|[[File:Original Pipework Conector.jpg|thumb|200x200px|Original Pipework Connector]]
|}

== Contactors/Pre-Charge ==

=== Passat GTE ===
The Control box contains
* PEC 300A 450VDC fuse
* 2 x Contactors (Data Matrix Code '#3Q0915646B ###100117*288 LS301CRFIFO*=', Non Economiser Type Current Draw 0.556A@12.8V)
* 1 x Pre-Charge Relay (Data Matrix Code '#3Q0915646A ###281116*288 LS301HGC9KB*=')
* 1 x Pre-Charge Resistor (Resistance TBC)
* 1 x Current Shunt (Data Matrix Code:p88970180259, Rating TBC)
* 1 x Contactor Control Board
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! rowspan="2" |[[File:A09A7763.jpg|thumb|373x373px|Contactor Box]]
![[File:Passat HV Contactor.jpg|thumb|237x237px|HV Contactor]]
![[File:Pre charge relay.jpg|alt=|thumb|259x259px|Pre Charge Relay]]
![[File:Resistor.jpg|thumb|pre charge resistor]]
|-
![[File:300a 450v Fuse.jpg|center|thumb|200x200px|Fuse]]
![[File:Shunt.jpg|alt=|thumb|200x200px|Shunt]]
![[File:Contactor Control.jpg|thumb|200x200px|Control Board]]
|}
Reusing with Open Inverter controlling the contactors and relay directly should be as simple as supplying 12v and switching the ground as required.

The control board has the following connector(s)
{| class="wikitable"
|+
|Control board Interface Connector
|
|-
|[[File:TE 1-963539-1.jpg|thumb|TE 1-963539-1]]
|
|}
The pinout is as follows:
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!Pin
!Function
!Wire Colour
!Notes
|-
|1
| +12v
|Green
|Live when service plug installed
|-
|2
| +12v
|Green
|Live when service plug installed
|-
|3
|
|
|
|-
|4
|COMs
|Black/Grey
|COM line to J840 (maybe LIN?)
|-
|5
|
|
|
|-
|6
|GND
|Brown
|GND to battery casing
|-
|7
|
|
|
|-
|8
|GND
|Brown/Red
|Vehicle GND
|-
|9
|GND
|Brown/Red
|Vehicle GND
|-
|10
| +12V
|Red
|KL30 (permenant live)
|-
|11
|
|
|
|-
|12
|
|
|
|-
|13
|
|
|
|-
|14
|CANH
|Orange/Blue
|120 OHM, internal to pack only
|-
|15
|CANL
|Orange/Brown
|120 OHM, internal to pack only
|-
|16
| +12V
|Yellow
|KL15 (ignition live)
|-
|17
|
|
|
|-
|18
|GND
|Brown/Red
|Vehicle GND
|}

Pins 1, 2 (green), 16 (yellow) & 10 (red) are required for can bus to output

Can output ...
{| class="wikitable"
|CAN ID
|Function
|Notes
|-
|000000BB
|Shunt, Bytes 1 & 2 (16bit signed integer)
|Multiply by 0.00625 to get amps
|-
|18FED007
|
|
|-
|0000015B
|
|
|-
|18FED008
|
|
|-
|18FED009
|Bytes 0 & 1 (16bit integer)
|Possible Candidate Voltage @ Fuse
|-
|18FED00A
|
|
|-
|18FED003
|
|
|-
|18FED004
|
|
|-
|1A55545F
|
|
|-
|16A95419
|
|
|-
|18FED006
|
|
|-
|18FED002
|
|
|-
|18FED005
|
|
|}
Early DBC file only reads Shunt Current https://drive.google.com/file/d/1iG0pXk8BdoYc2XFG5V1_bZaf9pgPySye/view?usp=sharing

sample Saavycan capture with 5amps load https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zqkIfVTC2r4Nmz_XZJmQcCdNYnU14yxu/view?usp=sharing

BMS Control Module

(This is not needed when used with SIMPBMS, but may provide a source of can information for controlling the contactor board)
{| class="wikitable"
|+
|[[File:BMS MODULE.jpg|thumb|BMS Control Module]]
|[[File:BMS CTL BOARD.jpg|thumb|BMS MASTER PCB]]
|[[File:BMS MASTER WIRES.jpg|thumb|208x208px|6 Twisted Pairs (12)]]
|}
CAN ID'S outputted on Control Board CAN Line
{| class="wikitable"
|CAN ID
|Function
|Notes
|-
|000000BA
|Module Wake up
|
|-
|1BFFDA1A
|
|
|-
|1BFFDA19
|
|
|-
|1A55540A
|
|
|-
|1A55540B
|
|
|-
|1A55540C
|
|
|-
|1A55540D
|
|
|-
|1A555410
|
|
|-
|1A555411
|
|
|-
|1A555412
|
|
|-
|1A555413
|
|
|-
|1A555414
|
|
|-
|1A555415
|
|
|-
|1A555416
|
|
|-
|1A555417
|
|
|-
|1A555418
|
|
|-
|1A555419
|
|
|-
|1A55541E
|
|
|-
|1A55541F
|
|
|}

sample Saavycan capture from BMS Master (with nothing else connected):

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EChKUwvZnYf_ncV8dCkwt0RWIQ2EQWO8/view?usp=sharing

=== Golf GTE ===
The control box contains a
* PEC 250A 450VDC fuse
* 2 x Panasonic AEV14012 M28 contactors https://docs.rs-online.com/6251/0900766b80e1fbed.pdf, yazaki 7283-1020 is the connector (would recommend a better contactor, I've welded one of these closed pretty easily)
* pre-charge relay and resistor,
* Current shunt.
{| class="wikitable"
|+
![[File:20210210 140247.jpg|alt=Golf GTE Fuse|none|thumb|Golf GTE Fuse]]
![[File:20210210 140301.jpg|alt=Main Control Box|none|thumb|Main Control Box]]
![[File:20210210 140438.jpg|alt=Pre-charge relay|none|thumb|Pre-charge relay]]
|-
![[File:20210210 152916.jpg|alt=Contactor|thumb|Contactor]]
![[File:20210325 222043.jpg|none|thumb|Amphenol Radsoc 8mm]]PN: N 02 080 6121 002 (unconfirmed)
!
|}

Reusing with Open Inverter controlling the contactors and relay directly should be as simple as supplying 12v and switching the ground as required.

The main control board has 2 connectors, one end looks to be high voltage and the other has the external connections and precharge/contactor controls.
[[File:20210212 135323.jpg|none|thumb]]
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!Pin
!Function
!Wire Colour
!Additional
|-
|1
|Connects to battery case
|Black
|Ring terminal on the end, maybe for isolation test? Seems to output 5v.
|-
|2
|Gnd
|Black
|
|-
|3
|N/C
|
|
|-
|4
|CAN H
|White
| rowspan="2" |125ohm resistance between them. IC501 - TJA1042
https://www.nxp.com/docs/en/data-sheet/TJA1042.pdf
|-
|5
|CAN L
|Black
|-
|6-9
|N/C
|
|
|-
|10
|12v
|Red
|12V input.
|-
|11
|12v
|Red
|12V input. When supplied, IC204 begins outputting 5V
|-
|12
|12v ignition
|White
|Looks to be ignition 12v
|-
|13
|N/C
|
|
|-
|14
|12v
|White
|Enables the 12v to the contactors.
|-
|15-19
|N/C
|
|
|-
|20
|Pre charge relay switched gnd
|Black
|Q409 is responsible for switching this to ground.
|-
|21
|Contactor switched gnd
|Black
|Q408 is responsible for switching this to ground.
|-
|22
|Contactor switched gnd
|Black
|Q408 is responsible for switching this to ground.
|-
|23
|12v for precharge relay
|Yellow
|Isolated from 12v supply, IC401
|-
|24
|12v for contactor
|Blue
|Isolated from 12v supply, IC401
|-
|25
|12v for contactor
|Red
|Isolated from 12v supply, IC401
|-
|26
|N/C
|
|
|}

High voltage side has a LTC1391 (https://www.analog.com/en/products/ltc1391.html) 12bit ADC, at a guess relating to voltage and current measurements.

2 x UM5401 Quad-Channel Isolators with Integrated DC-to-DC Converter

2 x V216HC4 unknown

[[File:20210329 134301.jpg|none|thumb|IC401 - Connects to pin 5 on the main processor, this appears to enable the 12v supply.]]

=== E-Golf ===
All the components here appear to be the same as the passat GTE, notable exceptions:

1x PEC 400A fuse

4x 3Q0915646B contactors (2x for CCS)

1x Pre-Charge Relay 3Q0915646A

1x Pre-Charge Resistor

1x Voltage based Shunt

1x Capacitor

1x BMS Master Module, J840

1x Contactor Control Board, J497
[[File:E-Golf contactor block.jpg|none|thumb|452x452px]]
J497 Module Monitor Control Unit
[[File:J497.jpg|none|thumb]]
{| class="wikitable"
| colspan="5" |'''Pin out for J497'''
|-
| colspan="1" rowspan="18" |Low voltage external connector
|T18c/1
|gn
|Service Plug
|KL30a when service plug inserted
|-
|T18c/2
|gn
|Service Plug
|KL30a when service plug inserted
|-
|T18c/3
|
|
|
|-
|T18c/4
|sw
|J840 Link
|direct line to J840
|-
|T18c/5
|
|
|
|-
|T18c/6
|br
|GND
|Ground of battery casing
|-
|T18c/7
|
|
|
|-
|T18c/8
|br
|GND
|Vehicle Earth
|-
|T18c/9
|br
|GND
|Vehicle Earth
|-
|T18c/10
|rt
|KL30a
|
|-
|T18c/11
|
|
|
|-
|T18c/12
|
|
|
|-
|T18c/13
|or/br
|Hybrid CAN-l
|CAN bus for cell modules
|-
|T18c/14
|or/bl
|Hybrid CAN-h
|CAN bus for cell modules
|-
|T18c/15
|
|
|
|-
|T18c/16
|ge
|KL15a
|Ignition live
|-
|T18c/17
|
|
|
|-
|T18c/18
|br
|GND
|Vehicle Earth
|-
|
|
|
|
|
|-
| colspan="1" rowspan="12" |High voltage tap/sense lines
|T12i/1a
|ws/ge
|HV- tap
|HV- tap output side drive contactor
|-
|T12i/2a
|vi
|HV- tap
|HV- tap battery negative
|-
|T12i/3a
|ws
|HV+ tap
|HV+ tap input side precharge relay
|-
|T12i/4a
|rt/bl
|HV+ tap
|HV+ tap battery positive post fuse
|-
|T12i/5a
|gr
|SIG
|HV+ shunt high
|-
|T12i/6a
|
|
|
|-
|T12i/1b
|gn
|HV+ tap
|HV+ tap output side drive contactor
|-
|T12i/2b
|ws/sw
|HV- tap
|HV- tap external side aux contactor
|-
|T12i/3b
|rt/sw
|HV+ tap
|HV+ tap battery positive
|-
|T12i/4b
|ws/bl
|HV+ tap
|HV+ tap external side aux contactor
|-
|T12i/5b
|gr/sw
|SIG
|HV+ shunt low
|-
|T12i/6b
|
|
|
|-
|
|
|
|
|
|-
| colspan="1" rowspan="12" |Low voltage contactor drive
|T12j/1
|br
|GND
|Coil – for Precharge Relay
|-
|T12j/2
|br
|GND
|Coil – for HV+ Drive contactor
|-
|T12j/3
|br
|GND
|Coil – for HV- Drive contactor
|-
|T12j/4
|br
|GND
|Coil – for HV+ Aux contactor
|-
|T12j/5
|br
|GND
|Coil – for HV- Aux contactor
|-
|T12j/6
|
|
|
|-
|T12j/7
|sw
|CTRL
|Coil + for Precharge Relay
|-
|T12j/8
|ge
|CTRL
|Coil + for HV+ Drive contactor
|-
|T12j/9
|rt/ge
|CTRL
|Coil + for HV- Drive contactor
|-
|T12j/10
|gn
|CTRL
|Coil + for HV+ Aux contactor
|-
|T12j/11
|
|
|
|-
|T12j/12
|gr
|CTRL
|Coil + for HV- Aux contactor
|-
|
|
|
|
|
|-
| colspan="1" rowspan="4" |Battery Tap
|T4bx/1
|
|
|
|-
|T4bx/2
|
|
|
|-
|T4bx/3
|bl
|Centre Tap
|Centre cell tap from HV battery
|-
|T4bx/4
|
|
|}
J840 Battery Regulation Control Unit
[[File:J840.jpg|none|thumb]]
{| class="wikitable"
| colspan="4" |'''J840 pin out'''
|-
|T32j/1
|or/bl
|Hybrid CAN-h
|To cell modules and J497
|-
|T32j/2
|or/br
|Hybrid CAN-l
|To cell modules and J497
|-
|T32j/3
|ge/rt
|Power CAN-h
|To powertrain CAN bus
|-
|T32j/4
|ge/br
|Power CAN-l
|To powertrain CAN bus
|-
|T32j/5
|sw/gn
|PIOLT
|HV connection PIOLT line (must form circuit with T32j/21)
|-
|T32j/6
|
|
|
|-
|T32j/7
|
|
|
|-
|T32j/8
|
|
|
|-
|T32j/9
|
|
|
|-
|T32j/10
|gr
|Module KL30a
|12v+ power to cell modules
|-
|T32j/11
|
|
|
|-
|T32j/12
|gn/rt
|Enable
|Cell module enable power to first module
|-
|T32j/13
|vi
|SIG+
|Battery isolation igniter
|-
|T32j/14
|ge
|KL15a
|Ignition Live power
|-
|T32j/15
|br
|GND
|31 Earth connection
|-
|T32j/16
|br
|GND
|31 Earth connection (battery case)
|-
|T32j/17
|rt
|KL30a
|Permenant live
|-
|T32j/18
|or/sw
|Hybrid CAN-h
|To hybrid CAN bus
|-
|T32j/19
|or/br
|Hybrid CAN-l
|To hybrid CAN bus
|-
|T32j/20
|sw
|J497 link
|Direct line to J497
|-
|T32j/21
|sw/bl
|PIOLT
|HV connection PIOLT line (must form circuit with T32j/5)
|-
|T32j/22
|
|
|
|-
|T32j/23
|
|
|
|-
|T32j/24
|
|
|
|-
|T32j/25
|
|
|
|-
|T32j/26
|
|
|
|-
|T32j/27
|
|
|
|-
|T32j/28
|gn/bl
|Enable Check
|Enable signal return from last cell module
|-
|T32j/29
|vi/sw
|SIG-
|Battery isolation igniter
|-
|T32j/30
|br
|GND
|31 Earth connection (battery case)
|-
|T32j/31
|
|
|
|-
|T32j/32
|gn
|Service Plug
|KL30a power through HV service disconnect
|}

== Using Multiple Packs ==
'''Note: This section is very very rough draft!!and needs a lot more work!'''

Currently NO Turn Key solutions exist for using more than 1 pack, however .... The items below have NEVER been tested and could only be described as experimental !!

* The next release of SIMP BMS (assuming to be V3) shall use a teensy 4 which will have 3 canbuses however this is in the early stages of development.
* It could be possible to use 2 sets of SIMPBMS however they would exist on 2 separate can buses, this would not to be easy task to implement.
* It could be possible to translate the CAN id's from the second pack by using a can in the middle and still use a single SIMPBMS however this has never been tested.

The can id's outputted from the modules are fixed, the ranges used are from 01B0 to 01CE (432-462).

If these CAN id's were translated (from the second pack) using a can in the middle device to id's to a range like 01D0 to 01EE (464-494) a single SIMPBMS could be used as there is an undocumented code allowing for extended id's within the VW SIMPBMS code.

Sample can id modifying code can be found in colin kidders git hub for the arduino due

https://github.com/collin80/due_can/tree/master/examples/CAN_TrafficModifier

Damian McGuire has created a can in the middle device

https://github.com/damienmaguire/CAN-BUS-Man-In-The-Middle

BMS code showing extended id's

https://github.com/Tom-evnut/VW-bms/blob/master/VWBMSV2/BMSModuleManager.cpp

Rough Draft of CAN ID translation concept, important note the reverse path needs adding.

There is a can id that simp bms sends out (00BA) that wakes up the modules, this needs to be passed through as is.
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!
!
!
!
|-
|
|[[File:Block diagram can id translation (draft).jpg|thumb|Block Diagram can id translation (draft)]]
|
|
|-
|
|
|
|
|-
|
|
|
|
|}

[[Category:OEM]] [[Category:VAG]] [[Category:Battery]]

VW Hybrid Battery Packs

2022-10-12T00:07:29Z

Mark: Remove "pre charge relay", which was mistakenly inserted at the beginning of the article

Information on reusing VW Golf/Passat GTE hybrid battery Packs.

== Specification Overview ==

=== Passat GTE ===
The 9.9 KWH Passat GTE battery pack contains 96S 28AH Samsung cells arranged in to 4 modules of 24S with a liquid cooled heatsink down the middle.

=== Golf GTE ===
The Golf GTE battery pack has a plastic top cover, containing 8.7 KWH Panasonic cells arranged in to 4 modules of 24S with a liquid cooled heatsink down the middle.

== Disassembly ==
I Can Not understate the importance of Insulation when dealing With High Voltages, Both of your tools and yourself of course! Also ensuring that we do everything to prevent a Shor Circuit.

All Metal tools were covered in Tape And/Or Heat Shrink so that in the event of a drop there would not be a dangerous short circuit, and also as an added layer of insulation from the battery to myself!

I only ever toughed the HV contacts when I absolutely had to, no point taking chances!

Useful/Tools used:
# Torx & Socket Drive Set (insulated with shrink wrap/tape)
# Electric Screwdriver
# Magnet on a stick (Covered in tape of course)
# Insulation Tape & Duct Tape
# Gloves … I used nitrile gloves, Electrician’s gloves & some garden gloves so I didn’t tear the electrical gloves.
# Electrical screwdrivers & a normal screwdrivers covered in insulation tape.
# Voltmeter
# Insulated shoes
# Nylon straps the battery came tied to the pallet.
# Emergency help on hand in case of electrocution (including gloves for them & I attached one of the nylon straps to myself so I could be pulled away)
# Work in the dry obviously
[[File:A09A7625.jpg|none|thumb]]

After Undoing all of the torx bolt on the top the cover can be removed … look at those precision straps to hold the modules down.
[[File:A09A7628.jpg|none|thumb]]

At this point after prodding about underneath the foam and looking down the sides I need access to the bottom to unbolt the modules, find that un-loved screwdriver (covered in paint in my case on top of my daughter’s rabbit hutch) and use gentle persuasion to remove the rubber plugs to get access to the torx bolts and remove them. Be very careful this thing is damn heavy you don’t wan this to land on your toes or any part of your body
[[File:A09A7632.jpg|none|thumb]]
[[File:A09A7633.jpg|none|thumb]]
Now back to the top side … remove all the foam, disconnect all of the cables you can (I could not remove the module bms plugs). Happily my module sat at 355 volts (88.8v per module) so not too low at about 3.7v per cell!

I then started tackling all of the bolts holding down the modules in the middle, however then came the ones that were under the Contactor box.

The scary bit where I disconnected the HV connections from the Contactor box thing, immediately covering with insulation tape, first negative, positive, then I tackled the mid pack connection (not shown in this photo). Then I removed all of the connections from the contactor box to allow it the removed to allow access to the torx bolts obstructed by it.
[[File:A09A7634.jpg|none|thumb]]
Now back to the top side … remove all the foam, disconnect all of the cables you can (I could not remove the module bms plugs). Happily my module sat at 355 volts (88.8v per module) so not too low at about 3.7v per cell!

I then started tackling all of the bolts holding down the modules in the middle, however then came the ones that were under the Contactor box.

The scary bit where I disconnected the HV connections from the Contactor box thing, immediately covering with insulation tape, first negative, positive, then I tackled the mid pack connection (not shown in this photo). Then I removed all of the connections from the contactor box to allow it the removed to allow access to the torx bolts obstructed by it.

== BMS ==
The BMS slaves on the modules can be re-used using SimpBMS running on a Teensy Microcontroller.

https://github.com/Tom-evnut/SimpBMS

https://github.com/Tom-evnut/VW-bms

== Battery Modules ==

=== '''Passat GTE''' ===
The Battery Module weighs 23.4 Kg, (Add module dimensions), There is a BMS connector (TE 1-1670990-1) on both sides of the the module.
{| class="wikitable"
|+
|[[File:VW Passat Module Weight.jpg|thumb|Module Weight]]
|[[File:BMS Board.jpg|thumb|BMS Board]]
|
|}

== Cooling ==

The Battery Cells are cooled by a liquid cold plate in the middle of the module, the outside diameter of the metal pipe connector is 8.0mm
{| class="wikitable"
|+
|[[File:VW Passat GTE Battery Module 1.jpg|thumb|Battery Module cooling connectors]]
|[[File:Original Pipework Conector.jpg|thumb|200x200px|Original Pipework Connector]]
|}

== Contactors/Pre-Charge ==

=== Passat GTE ===
The Control box contains
* PEC 300A 450VDC fuse
* 2 x Contactors (Data Matrix Code '#3Q0915646B ###100117*288 LS301CRFIFO*=', Non Economiser Type Current Draw 0.556A@12.8V)
* 1 x Pre-Charge Relay (Data Matrix Code '#3Q0915646A ###281116*288 LS301HGC9KB*=')
* 1 x Pre-Charge Resistor (Resistance TBC)
* 1 x Current Shunt (Data Matrix Code:p88970180259, Rating TBC)
* 1 x Contactor Control Board
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! rowspan="2" |[[File:A09A7763.jpg|thumb|373x373px|Contactor Box]]
![[File:Passat HV Contactor.jpg|thumb|237x237px|HV Contactor]]
![[File:Pre charge relay.jpg|alt=|thumb|259x259px|Pre Charge Relay]]
!INSERT
Resistor Pic
|-
![[File:300a 450v Fuse.jpg|center|thumb|200x200px|Fuse]]
![[File:Shunt.jpg|alt=|thumb|200x200px|Shunt]]
![[File:Contactor Control.jpg|thumb|200x200px|Control Board]]
|}
Reusing with Open Inverter controlling the contactors and relay directly should be as simple as supplying 12v and switching the ground as required.

=== Golf GTE ===
The control box contains a
* PEC 250A 450VDC fuse
* 2 x Panasonic AEV14012 M28 contactors https://docs.rs-online.com/6251/0900766b80e1fbed.pdf, yazaki 7283-1020 is the connector
* pre-charge relay and resistor,
* Current shunt.
{| class="wikitable"
|+
![[File:20210210 140247.jpg|alt=Golf GTE Fuse|none|thumb|Golf GTE Fuse]]
![[File:20210210 140301.jpg|alt=Main Control Box|none|thumb|Main Control Box]]
![[File:20210210 140438.jpg|alt=Pre-charge relay|none|thumb|Pre-charge relay]]
|-
![[File:20210210 152916.jpg|alt=Contactor|thumb|Contactor]]
!
!
|}

Reusing with Open Inverter controlling the contactors and relay directly should be as simple as supplying 12v and switching the ground as required.

== Using Multiple Packs ==
Currently NO Turn Key solutions exist for using more than 1 pack, however .... The items below have NEVER been tested and could only be described as experimental !!

* The next release of SIMP BMS (assuming to be V3) shall use a teensy 4 which will have 3 canbuses however this is in the early stages of development.
* It could be possible to use 2 sets of SIMPBMS however they would exist on 2 separate can buses, this would not to be easy task to implement.
* It could be possible to translate the CAN id's from the second pack by using a can in the middle and still use a single SIMPBMS however this has never been tested.

The can id's outputted from the modules are fixed, the ranges used are from 01B0 to 01CE (432-462).

If these CAN id's were translated (from the second pack) using a can in the middle device to id's to a range like 01D0 to 01EE (464-494) a single SIMPBMS could be used as there is an undocumented code allowing for extended id's within the VW SIMPBMS code.

Sample can id modifying code can be found in colin kidders git hub for the arduino due

https://github.com/collin80/due_can/tree/master/examples/CAN_TrafficModifier

Damian McGuire has created a can in the middle device

https://github.com/damienmaguire/CAN-BUS-Man-In-The-Middle

BMS code showing extended id's

https://github.com/Tom-evnut/VW-bms/blob/master/VWBMSV2/BMSModuleManager.cpp

Rough Draft of CAN ID translation concept, important note the reverse path needs adding.

There is a can id that simp bms sends out (00BA) that wakes up the modules, this needs to be passed through as is.
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!
!
!
!
|-
|
|[[File:Block diagram can id translation (draft).jpg|thumb|Block Diagram can id translation (draft)]]
|
|
|-
|
|
|
|
|-
|
|
|
|
|}

Batteries

2022-10-11T23:10:23Z

Mark: Adding to the Battery category

== Introduction ==
There are a wide variety of battery chemistries available for use as the main traction battery of an EV. To use each chemistry safely, and to ensure an adequate service life from the battery pack it is important to understand the requirements for the chemistry you are using. Failure to do so may lead to premature or catastrophic failure of the pack.

Good pack design will allow for a nominal amount of abuse. People make mistakes and the pack should allow a margin for safety - and for longevity!

== Battery pack specification ==
When deciding on your battery pack, here are some basic parameters to consider:

=== Capacity (kWh) ===
'''How far do you want to go?''' A standard car conversion will need a kWh for each 3, maybe 4 miles of range (very approximately). For a middleweight motorcycle, a kWh should give around 9 miles. Your mileage may vary, ''as they say.''

=== Voltage (V) ===
'''How fast do you want to go?''' The pack voltage defines the maximum speed your motor can spin. Motors are usually specified with "KV" - or RPM-per-volt. Check the KV of your motor and how fast it needs to spin to get your desired top speed. e.g. if you need 3,000 RPM from a 25 KV motor then your pack voltage needs to be 3,000 / 25 = 120 V. The exact number of cells in series you need depends on the cell design, but 3.8 V for Li-ion and 3.2 V for LiFePO4 is a reasonable guess.

=== Maximum current (A) ===
'''How quickly do you want to accelerate?''' Your motor's maximum power will be specified in kW. To estimate your maximum current draw, divide the peak power by the battery voltage. e.g. a 30 kW motor with a 120 V battery pack will pull 30,000 / 120 = 250 A. The higher the current rating of the cells, the heavier they will be for a given capacity. Ideally, you want "enough" current capacity for full throttle acceleration, but no more. You can put cells in parallel to double the current rating of your pack (which of course will half the voltage). Running cells in parallel is easy, but don't attempt to parallel battery packs unless you really know what you are doing. It's [https://www.orionbms.com/manuals/pdf/parallel_strings.pdf complicated].

=== Mass (kg) ===
'''Can your vehicle carry the weight?''' You'll need to keep the kerb weight within the original design limits. For a car, your pack could be a few hundred kg. For a motorcycle, likely less than 100 kg. This is a huge variable - and each new generation of battery tech seems to be a little lighter. For older EV or hybrid batteries, you can reckon on approximately 10 kg/kWh. Nissan Leaf batteries are relatively light (7.5 kg/kWh). With the latest technology (e.g. Kokam pouch cells or 18650s), you can get this down to 5-6 kg/kWh.

=== Volume (L) ===
'''Will it fit?''' Batteries are bulky. They are getting smaller, but finding enough space might be your biggest challenge. You could be looking at over 5 L/kWh for older EV or hybrid batteries. Current state-of-the-art is the Tesla Model 3, which gets this down to 2.5 L/kWh by using 2170 cylindrical cells.

There is much, much more to battery design than this (e.g. maximum charge rate, terminations, cooling, clamping), but the above should help work out which options will or won't work for your project...

== Cell chemistry ==

=== Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) ===
Lithium Iron Phosphate (also known as LFP, or LiFePO4) batteries offer a good compromise between safety, energy density and ease of use for DIY conversions. They are available in a number of formats, commonly pouch cells, prismatic cells and cylindrical cells.

==== LiFePO4 pouch cells ====
The majority of this content is drawn from this thread: [https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=38761&start=900 https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=38761] discussing the use of the A123 20Ah pouch cell. However, many of the general points apply equally to other similar pouch cells.

===== General build requirements =====
Pouch cells are vulnerable to damage from debris, and must be held in compression (see the datasheet for your battery, but 10-12 psi is recommended for the A123 pouch cells as a guide). A rigid container capable of preventing damage and providing compression is therefore required. Be aware the cells expand and contract in use, so allowance for this must be included in the structure of the case.

The pouch cells should be separated to prevent abrasion between cells, and also to avoid the development of hot spots. Prebuilt modules from A123 systems had thin foam sheets or heatsinks between each cell. Be sure to avoid any debris that could rub on the pouch surface, particularly if using recycled cells.

Mylar, '[https://www.americanmicroinc.com/fish-paper/ Fish paper]' or a [https://www.rogerscorp.com/elastomeric-material-solutions/poron-industrial-polyurethanes compliant foam] may be appropriate materials to serve this purpose. This material should not be flammable. If the material is heat insulating, it is important to address thermal management.

===== Compression =====
Compression is required to prevent premature failure of the cell. Without compression electrolyte will become unevenly distributed, causing current gradients in the cell and uneven heating. Local temperatures can become high enough to form gas formation leading to cells 'puffing up' even when the pack is otherwise held within temperature and voltage constraints. This will be exacerbated in packs with otherwise poor thermal management. Compression forces gas generated to the margins of the cell, outside of the cell stack, minimising its effect cell performance. Gas in the middle cells will create a dead space which does not store or release energy.

There is ~1% expansion through a discharge cycle. As the cell ages, the nominal cell thickness can grow by 3-5%. For A123 cells the ideal pressure is between 4 and 18psi with the ideal pressure being ~12psi. Maintaining 12psi can increase the life by 500 cycles over that of 4 or 18psi

There is some suggestion that in uses where 1C is never exceeded compression ''may'' not be required.

Highly rigid endplates with a mechanism to allow for a limited degree of expansion (e.g. steel bands) are considered an effective solution to this challenge.

It should be noted that compression is a challenge specific to pouch cells. Cylindrical cells are designed to maintain their own compression within the cell's electrode stack by their design.

This thread provides more information and experimentation relating to pack compression: <nowiki>https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=52244</nowiki>

===== Pouch Cell Pack Design Examples =====
<nowiki>*</nowiki>placeholder*

===== Notes regarding recycled pouch cells =====
Pouch cells are somewhat fragile, and breaching the insulation is not difficult, especially in a cells removed from existing packs and repurposed. If the pouch has had their poly-layers compromised you may see a number of faults:
* Black spots around the perimeter of the cell indicate electrolyte leakage
* Voltage on the outside of the bag. Note that microvoltage between the pouch and the electrode is normal (and due to a capacitive effect).
While the majority of these cells should no longer be in the market, a significant number of faulty cells made it back into the 'greymarket' in around 2013. These cells had misaligned tabs which can also lead to isolation failures between the tab and the pack. These cells should be avoided, particularly in high demand applications.

===== Situations likely to cause pouch cell failure =====
''Taken directly from [https://endless-sphere.com/forums/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=33107 wb9k]'s post on endless sphere in the [https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=38761 A123 thread]''
# '''Overcharge'''. Any extended time above 3.8 Volts will generate enough heat and electrochemical activity to puff a cell, especially one that is improperly compressed.
# '''Overdischarge followed by charge'''. Any A123 cell that has been pulled low enough to come to rest at <300 mV should be immediately scrapped. The published number for that is 500 mV, but the real figure is closer to 300, so that's a "safety buffer" if you will. Below this Voltage, the Cu electrodes start to dissolve into the electrolyte. When charge is applied, the Cu forms dendrites that puncture the separator layer, forming an internal short in the cell. This can puff a cell in a hurry---the more charge current on tap, the worse it's prone to be.
# '''Driving a cell negative'''. I've neglected to mention this before, but it is a possibility. I don't know much about the specific mechanism at this time.
# '''Malfunctioning or misinformed electronics'''. This is the most common cause of all of the above in my experience. At this stage of the game, it is critical for YOU to understand how your BMS functions on at least a cursory level. Choose your BMS very carefully and periodically verify that it is operating properly. They're not all created equal. Make sure V sense lines are securely connected and free of corrosion. Just because your BMS says there was never a problem doesn't necessarily make it so. Avoid harnesses or ribbon cables between multiple modules if possible--they are problematic wherever they are used in any mobile electronics.
# '''Exposure to or generation of sufficient heat'''. I don't know exactly at what temperature gas formation begins in the electrolyte, but we spec a max storage temp of 80 (or 85?) degrees C and I suspect this is the reason. The hotter, the puffier--to a point. This is why soldering tabs poses a real hazard to cell health. If you feel you must solder, sink or blow the heat away from the body of the cell. Use a big iron that can make sufficient local heat quickly, before the whole mass of the cell gets hot. You might even get the cell warm enough to melt separator if not careful.
# '''No compression, not enough compression, improperly distributed compression'''. This is a pack/module design issue. Apply 10, maybe 15 psi to your cell stack end to end and then band snugly and evenly. Use hard endplates of some sort--never wrap cells directly or allow their shape to become distorted. Protect all areas of the pouch from impact damage. This obviously does not apply to cylindrical cells.

==== LiFePO4 prismatic cells ====
<nowiki>*</nowiki>placeholder*

==== LiFePO4 cylindrical cells ====
<nowiki>*</nowiki>placeholder*

==== LiFePO4 cell ageing ====
''Derived (barely paraphrased) from [https://endless-sphere.com/forums/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=33107 wb9k]'s post on endless sphere in the [https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=38761 A123 thread]''

Capacity loss is caused by the lithium that was available for storage becoming permanently plated on the cathode. Being unable to move within the cell it is no longer available to store energy. The impact of this plating is greater than the amount of lithium 'lost' to plating because not only is the lithium no longer available, it is also preventing access to that part of the cathode meaning Li that can still move has to take a longer path to reach the cathode. Lithium plating is one cause of increased cell resistance (there are others), a sign of worsening cell health.

There is no linear relationship between actual capacity loss and impedance rise. However some cell defects will also increase impedance.

Increasing cell resistance may cause a number of symptoms which may be confused with [https://earthshipbiotecture.com/a-lithium-ion-battery-primer/ High Self Discharge.]
# Elevated Peukert Losses. As more energy per amount of current through the cell is lost as heat, the cells useable capacity decreases. So the apparent capacity loss is higher than the actual capacity loss of cycleable lithium. When used in low current applications (e.g. solar energy storage) the actual and apparent decrease in capacity will be small. In high current draw applications (like EV traction packs), the Peukert loss increases proportionally, so the apparent capacity loss increases much faster than the actual capacity loss.
# Greater voltage excursion under the same load. Due to increased cell resistancethe voltage will sag further under the same load than a cell in optimal condition. The inverse is also true, the voltage will be higher for the same amount of charging current applied. The cell will then rebound to a voltage further from the loaded and charging voltages. This, obviously, can look like high self discharge but is a different phenomenon.
# Absolute maximum current decrease.
Elevated impedance causes a more complex constellation of symptoms, some of which may be easy to confuse with High Self Discharge (HSD). Ohm's law (E=I/R) holds the key to understanding here.

'''1) Elevated Peukert losses.''' Because more energy per unit of current through the cell is lost as heat, less of the cell's capacity is actually USABLE. Thus, apparent capacity loss can be significantly greater than actual capacity loss caused by the loss of cycleable Li alone. In low current applications, the two numbers will be close together. In high current applications, Peukert losses increase in proportion, so apparent loss of capacity breaks further and further away from actual capacity loss as current increases.

'''2) Greater voltage excursion under the same load.''' Elevated resistance across the cell means that voltage will sag more under the same load than it did when the cell was healthier. Conversely, voltage will rise higher with the same amount of applied charge current than it did when it was healthier. At the same time, rebound/settling voltages will be further away from loaded/charging voltages. In other words, the cell will rebound to a voltage further away from loaded voltage, all else being equal. Similarly, voltage will settle farther from the charge voltage with the same charge applied. This can give the illusion of elevated self-discharge, but the phenomenon is actually not the same thing. Again, the greater the charge and load currents, the greater the effect becomes.

'''3) Absolute max current decreases.''' Because the cell's series resistance is elevated, the maximum possible current through the cell is decreased.

Just to confuse things further, there can be many factors that lead to impedance rise. Some are related to Li plating, others are not.

=== Lithium-ion ===
Lithium-ion (Li-ion) batteries have a greater energy density than Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries, but have more challenging needs to use safely. The ideal operating range of Li-ion batteries is between +15 and +45°C. The upper limit of temperature is particularly important as Li-ion batteries experience thermal runaway - an unstoppable chain reaction that can occur in milliseconds releasing the stored energy in the cell. This can produce temperatures of 400°C and a fire that is extremely difficult to put out. Thermal runaway can start as low as 60°C and becomes much more likely at 100°C

Risk factors for thermal runaway:
* Short Circuits - either internally or externally
* Overcharging
* Excessive current draw or when charging

==== Li-ion pouch cells ====
[https://kokam.com/cell Kokam] produce high-performance Li-ion pouch cells. These combine relative ease of use and pack construction with performance close to cylindrical cells.

==== Li-ion 18650 and other cylindrical cells ====
Cylindrical cells are favoured by Tesla, and are probably the main reason why their cars achieve such excellent performance. They are light, compact, powerful and expensive. Unfortunately, cylindrical cells are difficult (and potentially dangerous) to use in DIY conversions. There are two good reasons for this: thermal management and cell configuration.

As stated above, Li-ion cells are prone to thermal runaway. So you need perfect battery and thermal management to ensure that no cell ever exceeds the critical voltage or temperature. If this happens, a cell can short-circuit internally, releasing a lot of energy - potentially explosively. Furthermore, the individual cells are small, so need to be arranged in parallel. In the case of the Tesla Model S 85kW pack, there are 74 cells in parallel. Imagine if one of those cells fails and becomes short circuited internally. You now have 73 very high power cells all feeding in to that short circuit...

In fact, you don't have to imagine: you can watch this famous video instead (courtesy of Rich Rebuilds).

<youtube>WdDi1haA71Q</youtube>

== OEM modules ==
Using an OEM module means a lot of the difficulties and safety issues associated with battery design are taken care of e.g. cooling, clamping, etc.

Here is a handy list of OEM modules:
{| class="wikitable sortable mw-collapsible"
|+
!Manufacturer
!Model
!Capacity (kWh)
!Weight (kg)
!w (mm)
!d (mm)
!h (mm)
!Gravity (kg/kWh)
!Volume (L/kWh)
!Voltage (V)
!Current (cont A)
!Current (peak A)
!Cell arrangement
!Cell type
!Chemistry
|-
|Tesla
|Model S 85kWh
|5.3
|26
|690
|315
|80
|4.9
|3.3
|22.8
|500
|750
|74p6s
|18650
|Li-ion
|-
|Tesla
|Model S 100kWh
|6.4
|28
|680
|315
|80
|4.4
|2.7
|22.8
|
|870
|86p6s
|18650
|Li-ion
|-
|Tesla
|Model 3 LR (inner)
|19.2
|98.9
|1854
|292
|90
|5.2
|2.5
|91.1
|
|971
|46p25s
|2170
|Li-ion
|-
|Tesla
|Model 3 LR (outer)
|17.7
|86.6
|1715
|292
|90
|4.9
|2.5
|83.9
|
|971
|46p23s
|2170
|Li-ion
|-
|Tesla
|Model 3 SR (inner)
|13.0
|58.9
|1385
|326
|90
|
|3.7
|91.1
|
|603
|31p24s
|2170
|Li-ion
|-
|Tesla
|Model 3 SR (outer)
|12.0
|58.9
|1380
|344
|90
|
|3.8
|83.9
|
|603
|31p24s
|2170
|Li-ion
|-
|Calb
|4S3P
|2.19
|12
|355
|151
|108
|5.5
|2.6
|14.6
|
|900
|3p4s
|Pouch
|Li-ion
|-
|Calb
|6S2P
|2.19
|12
|355
|151
|108
|5.5
|2.6
|22.2
|
|600
|2p6s
|Pouch
|Li-ion
|-
|Chevrolet
|Volt 2012
|4
|38
|470
|180
|280
|9.5
|5.9
|88.8
|
|676
|3p24s
|Pouch
|Li-ion
|-
|BMW
|i3 60Ah
|2
|13
|368
|178
|102
|6.5
|3.3
|28.8
|210
|350
|2p8s
|Prismatic
|Li-ion
|-
|BMW
|i3 94Ah
|4.15
|28
|410
|310
|150
|6.7
|4.6
|45.6
|
|409
|12s
|Prismatic
|Li-ion
|-
|BMW
|i3 120Ah
|5.3
|28
|410
|310
|150
|5.3
|3.6
|45.6
|
|360
|12s
|Prismatic
|Li-ion
|-
|BMW
|[[BMW Hybrid Battery Pack|PHEV 34Ah]]
|2.0
|13.05
|368
|178
|102
|6.525
|3.34
|59.0
|
|
|
|Prismatic
|Li-ion
|-
|Jaguar
|iPace
|2.5
|12
|340
|155
|112
|4.8
|2.4
|10.8
|720
|1200
|4p3s
|Pouch
|Li-ion
|-
|LG
|4P3S
|2.6
|12.8
|357
|151
|110
|4.9
|2.3
|11
|
|
|4p3s
|Pouch
|Li-ion
|-
|Mitsubishi
|Outlander
|2.4
|26
|646
|184
|130
|10.8
|6.4
|60
|
|240
|16s
|
|Li-ion
|-
|Nissan
|Leaf 24kWh
|0.5
|3.65
|300
|222
|34
|7.3
|4.5
|7.2
|130
|228
|2p2s
|Pouch
|Li-ion LMO
|-
|Nissan
|Leaf 30kWh
|1.25
|
|300
|222
|34
|
|3.6
|14.4
|
|
|2p4s
|Pouch
|Li-ion
|-
|Nissan
|Leaf 40kWh
|1.6
|8.7
|300
|222
|68
|5.4
|2.8
|14.4
|
|314
|2p4s
|Pouch
|Li-ion NMC
|-
|Nissan
|Leaf 62kWh
|2.58
|
|
|
|
|
|
|14.4
|
|
|3p4s
|
|Li-ion
|-
|PSA/Opel
|Pugeot E-208, Corsa E
|2.73
|12.7
|390
|150
|115
|4.6
|2.5
|21.9
|
|
|6p2s
|Pouch
|Li-ion
|-
|Volvo
|XC90 T8
|2.01
|12.1
|300
|180
|150
|6.0
|4.0
|59.2
|170
|340
|16s
|
|Li-ion
|-
|VW
|[[VW Hybrid Battery Packs|Passet GTE]]
|2.48
|23.4
|360-410
|225-235
|150
|9.4
|4.8-5.5
|88.8
|
|
|24s
|Prismatic
|Li-ion
|-
|VW
|[[VW Hybrid Battery Packs|Golf GTE]]
|1.086
|9.8
|355
|152
|110
|9.02
|5.5
|44
|
|
|12s
|Prismatic
|Li-ion
|-
|VW
|Touareg 14,1 kWh
|1.76
|12.3
|385
|150
|108
|7.0
|3.5
|45.25
|
|
|13s
|Prismatic
|Li-ion
|-
|VW
|id3/id4 55kWh, 62kWh
|6.85
|32
|225
|590
|110
|4.67
|2.13
|44.4
|
|
|12s2p
|
|
|-
|VW
|id3/id4 82kWh
|6.85
|32
|225
|590
|110
|4.67
|2.13
|29.6
|
|
|8s3p
|
|
|}
[[Category:Battery]]

Batteries

2022-10-11T23:09:16Z

Mark: /* OEM modules */ linking from the table to the BMW Hybrid Battery Pack page

== Introduction ==
There are a wide variety of battery chemistries available for use as the main traction battery of an EV. To use each chemistry safely, and to ensure an adequate service life from the battery pack it is important to understand the requirements for the chemistry you are using. Failure to do so may lead to premature or catastrophic failure of the pack.

Good pack design will allow for a nominal amount of abuse. People make mistakes and the pack should allow a margin for safety - and for longevity!

== Battery pack specification ==
When deciding on your battery pack, here are some basic parameters to consider:

=== Capacity (kWh) ===
'''How far do you want to go?''' A standard car conversion will need a kWh for each 3, maybe 4 miles of range (very approximately). For a middleweight motorcycle, a kWh should give around 9 miles. Your mileage may vary, ''as they say.''

=== Voltage (V) ===
'''How fast do you want to go?''' The pack voltage defines the maximum speed your motor can spin. Motors are usually specified with "KV" - or RPM-per-volt. Check the KV of your motor and how fast it needs to spin to get your desired top speed. e.g. if you need 3,000 RPM from a 25 KV motor then your pack voltage needs to be 3,000 / 25 = 120 V. The exact number of cells in series you need depends on the cell design, but 3.8 V for Li-ion and 3.2 V for LiFePO4 is a reasonable guess.

=== Maximum current (A) ===
'''How quickly do you want to accelerate?''' Your motor's maximum power will be specified in kW. To estimate your maximum current draw, divide the peak power by the battery voltage. e.g. a 30 kW motor with a 120 V battery pack will pull 30,000 / 120 = 250 A. The higher the current rating of the cells, the heavier they will be for a given capacity. Ideally, you want "enough" current capacity for full throttle acceleration, but no more. You can put cells in parallel to double the current rating of your pack (which of course will half the voltage). Running cells in parallel is easy, but don't attempt to parallel battery packs unless you really know what you are doing. It's [https://www.orionbms.com/manuals/pdf/parallel_strings.pdf complicated].

=== Mass (kg) ===
'''Can your vehicle carry the weight?''' You'll need to keep the kerb weight within the original design limits. For a car, your pack could be a few hundred kg. For a motorcycle, likely less than 100 kg. This is a huge variable - and each new generation of battery tech seems to be a little lighter. For older EV or hybrid batteries, you can reckon on approximately 10 kg/kWh. Nissan Leaf batteries are relatively light (7.5 kg/kWh). With the latest technology (e.g. Kokam pouch cells or 18650s), you can get this down to 5-6 kg/kWh.

=== Volume (L) ===
'''Will it fit?''' Batteries are bulky. They are getting smaller, but finding enough space might be your biggest challenge. You could be looking at over 5 L/kWh for older EV or hybrid batteries. Current state-of-the-art is the Tesla Model 3, which gets this down to 2.5 L/kWh by using 2170 cylindrical cells.

There is much, much more to battery design than this (e.g. maximum charge rate, terminations, cooling, clamping), but the above should help work out which options will or won't work for your project...

== Cell chemistry ==

=== Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) ===
Lithium Iron Phosphate (also known as LFP, or LiFePO4) batteries offer a good compromise between safety, energy density and ease of use for DIY conversions. They are available in a number of formats, commonly pouch cells, prismatic cells and cylindrical cells.

==== LiFePO4 pouch cells ====
The majority of this content is drawn from this thread: [https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=38761&start=900 https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=38761] discussing the use of the A123 20Ah pouch cell. However, many of the general points apply equally to other similar pouch cells.

===== General build requirements =====
Pouch cells are vulnerable to damage from debris, and must be held in compression (see the datasheet for your battery, but 10-12 psi is recommended for the A123 pouch cells as a guide). A rigid container capable of preventing damage and providing compression is therefore required. Be aware the cells expand and contract in use, so allowance for this must be included in the structure of the case.

The pouch cells should be separated to prevent abrasion between cells, and also to avoid the development of hot spots. Prebuilt modules from A123 systems had thin foam sheets or heatsinks between each cell. Be sure to avoid any debris that could rub on the pouch surface, particularly if using recycled cells.

Mylar, '[https://www.americanmicroinc.com/fish-paper/ Fish paper]' or a [https://www.rogerscorp.com/elastomeric-material-solutions/poron-industrial-polyurethanes compliant foam] may be appropriate materials to serve this purpose. This material should not be flammable. If the material is heat insulating, it is important to address thermal management.

===== Compression =====
Compression is required to prevent premature failure of the cell. Without compression electrolyte will become unevenly distributed, causing current gradients in the cell and uneven heating. Local temperatures can become high enough to form gas formation leading to cells 'puffing up' even when the pack is otherwise held within temperature and voltage constraints. This will be exacerbated in packs with otherwise poor thermal management. Compression forces gas generated to the margins of the cell, outside of the cell stack, minimising its effect cell performance. Gas in the middle cells will create a dead space which does not store or release energy.

There is ~1% expansion through a discharge cycle. As the cell ages, the nominal cell thickness can grow by 3-5%. For A123 cells the ideal pressure is between 4 and 18psi with the ideal pressure being ~12psi. Maintaining 12psi can increase the life by 500 cycles over that of 4 or 18psi

There is some suggestion that in uses where 1C is never exceeded compression ''may'' not be required.

Highly rigid endplates with a mechanism to allow for a limited degree of expansion (e.g. steel bands) are considered an effective solution to this challenge.

It should be noted that compression is a challenge specific to pouch cells. Cylindrical cells are designed to maintain their own compression within the cell's electrode stack by their design.

This thread provides more information and experimentation relating to pack compression: <nowiki>https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=52244</nowiki>

===== Pouch Cell Pack Design Examples =====
<nowiki>*</nowiki>placeholder*

===== Notes regarding recycled pouch cells =====
Pouch cells are somewhat fragile, and breaching the insulation is not difficult, especially in a cells removed from existing packs and repurposed. If the pouch has had their poly-layers compromised you may see a number of faults:
* Black spots around the perimeter of the cell indicate electrolyte leakage
* Voltage on the outside of the bag. Note that microvoltage between the pouch and the electrode is normal (and due to a capacitive effect).
While the majority of these cells should no longer be in the market, a significant number of faulty cells made it back into the 'greymarket' in around 2013. These cells had misaligned tabs which can also lead to isolation failures between the tab and the pack. These cells should be avoided, particularly in high demand applications.

===== Situations likely to cause pouch cell failure =====
''Taken directly from [https://endless-sphere.com/forums/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=33107 wb9k]'s post on endless sphere in the [https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=38761 A123 thread]''
# '''Overcharge'''. Any extended time above 3.8 Volts will generate enough heat and electrochemical activity to puff a cell, especially one that is improperly compressed.
# '''Overdischarge followed by charge'''. Any A123 cell that has been pulled low enough to come to rest at <300 mV should be immediately scrapped. The published number for that is 500 mV, but the real figure is closer to 300, so that's a "safety buffer" if you will. Below this Voltage, the Cu electrodes start to dissolve into the electrolyte. When charge is applied, the Cu forms dendrites that puncture the separator layer, forming an internal short in the cell. This can puff a cell in a hurry---the more charge current on tap, the worse it's prone to be.
# '''Driving a cell negative'''. I've neglected to mention this before, but it is a possibility. I don't know much about the specific mechanism at this time.
# '''Malfunctioning or misinformed electronics'''. This is the most common cause of all of the above in my experience. At this stage of the game, it is critical for YOU to understand how your BMS functions on at least a cursory level. Choose your BMS very carefully and periodically verify that it is operating properly. They're not all created equal. Make sure V sense lines are securely connected and free of corrosion. Just because your BMS says there was never a problem doesn't necessarily make it so. Avoid harnesses or ribbon cables between multiple modules if possible--they are problematic wherever they are used in any mobile electronics.
# '''Exposure to or generation of sufficient heat'''. I don't know exactly at what temperature gas formation begins in the electrolyte, but we spec a max storage temp of 80 (or 85?) degrees C and I suspect this is the reason. The hotter, the puffier--to a point. This is why soldering tabs poses a real hazard to cell health. If you feel you must solder, sink or blow the heat away from the body of the cell. Use a big iron that can make sufficient local heat quickly, before the whole mass of the cell gets hot. You might even get the cell warm enough to melt separator if not careful.
# '''No compression, not enough compression, improperly distributed compression'''. This is a pack/module design issue. Apply 10, maybe 15 psi to your cell stack end to end and then band snugly and evenly. Use hard endplates of some sort--never wrap cells directly or allow their shape to become distorted. Protect all areas of the pouch from impact damage. This obviously does not apply to cylindrical cells.

==== LiFePO4 prismatic cells ====
<nowiki>*</nowiki>placeholder*

==== LiFePO4 cylindrical cells ====
<nowiki>*</nowiki>placeholder*

==== LiFePO4 cell ageing ====
''Derived (barely paraphrased) from [https://endless-sphere.com/forums/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=33107 wb9k]'s post on endless sphere in the [https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=38761 A123 thread]''

Capacity loss is caused by the lithium that was available for storage becoming permanently plated on the cathode. Being unable to move within the cell it is no longer available to store energy. The impact of this plating is greater than the amount of lithium 'lost' to plating because not only is the lithium no longer available, it is also preventing access to that part of the cathode meaning Li that can still move has to take a longer path to reach the cathode. Lithium plating is one cause of increased cell resistance (there are others), a sign of worsening cell health.

There is no linear relationship between actual capacity loss and impedance rise. However some cell defects will also increase impedance.

Increasing cell resistance may cause a number of symptoms which may be confused with [https://earthshipbiotecture.com/a-lithium-ion-battery-primer/ High Self Discharge.]
# Elevated Peukert Losses. As more energy per amount of current through the cell is lost as heat, the cells useable capacity decreases. So the apparent capacity loss is higher than the actual capacity loss of cycleable lithium. When used in low current applications (e.g. solar energy storage) the actual and apparent decrease in capacity will be small. In high current draw applications (like EV traction packs), the Peukert loss increases proportionally, so the apparent capacity loss increases much faster than the actual capacity loss.
# Greater voltage excursion under the same load. Due to increased cell resistancethe voltage will sag further under the same load than a cell in optimal condition. The inverse is also true, the voltage will be higher for the same amount of charging current applied. The cell will then rebound to a voltage further from the loaded and charging voltages. This, obviously, can look like high self discharge but is a different phenomenon.
# Absolute maximum current decrease.
Elevated impedance causes a more complex constellation of symptoms, some of which may be easy to confuse with High Self Discharge (HSD). Ohm's law (E=I/R) holds the key to understanding here.

'''1) Elevated Peukert losses.''' Because more energy per unit of current through the cell is lost as heat, less of the cell's capacity is actually USABLE. Thus, apparent capacity loss can be significantly greater than actual capacity loss caused by the loss of cycleable Li alone. In low current applications, the two numbers will be close together. In high current applications, Peukert losses increase in proportion, so apparent loss of capacity breaks further and further away from actual capacity loss as current increases.

'''2) Greater voltage excursion under the same load.''' Elevated resistance across the cell means that voltage will sag more under the same load than it did when the cell was healthier. Conversely, voltage will rise higher with the same amount of applied charge current than it did when it was healthier. At the same time, rebound/settling voltages will be further away from loaded/charging voltages. In other words, the cell will rebound to a voltage further away from loaded voltage, all else being equal. Similarly, voltage will settle farther from the charge voltage with the same charge applied. This can give the illusion of elevated self-discharge, but the phenomenon is actually not the same thing. Again, the greater the charge and load currents, the greater the effect becomes.

'''3) Absolute max current decreases.''' Because the cell's series resistance is elevated, the maximum possible current through the cell is decreased.

Just to confuse things further, there can be many factors that lead to impedance rise. Some are related to Li plating, others are not.

=== Lithium-ion ===
Lithium-ion (Li-ion) batteries have a greater energy density than Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries, but have more challenging needs to use safely. The ideal operating range of Li-ion batteries is between +15 and +45°C. The upper limit of temperature is particularly important as Li-ion batteries experience thermal runaway - an unstoppable chain reaction that can occur in milliseconds releasing the stored energy in the cell. This can produce temperatures of 400°C and a fire that is extremely difficult to put out. Thermal runaway can start as low as 60°C and becomes much more likely at 100°C

Risk factors for thermal runaway:
* Short Circuits - either internally or externally
* Overcharging
* Excessive current draw or when charging

==== Li-ion pouch cells ====
[https://kokam.com/cell Kokam] produce high-performance Li-ion pouch cells. These combine relative ease of use and pack construction with performance close to cylindrical cells.

==== Li-ion 18650 and other cylindrical cells ====
Cylindrical cells are favoured by Tesla, and are probably the main reason why their cars achieve such excellent performance. They are light, compact, powerful and expensive. Unfortunately, cylindrical cells are difficult (and potentially dangerous) to use in DIY conversions. There are two good reasons for this: thermal management and cell configuration.

As stated above, Li-ion cells are prone to thermal runaway. So you need perfect battery and thermal management to ensure that no cell ever exceeds the critical voltage or temperature. If this happens, a cell can short-circuit internally, releasing a lot of energy - potentially explosively. Furthermore, the individual cells are small, so need to be arranged in parallel. In the case of the Tesla Model S 85kW pack, there are 74 cells in parallel. Imagine if one of those cells fails and becomes short circuited internally. You now have 73 very high power cells all feeding in to that short circuit...

In fact, you don't have to imagine: you can watch this famous video instead (courtesy of Rich Rebuilds).

<youtube>WdDi1haA71Q</youtube>

== OEM modules ==
Using an OEM module means a lot of the difficulties and safety issues associated with battery design are taken care of e.g. cooling, clamping, etc.

Here is a handy list of OEM modules:
{| class="wikitable sortable mw-collapsible"
|+
!Manufacturer
!Model
!Capacity (kWh)
!Weight (kg)
!w (mm)
!d (mm)
!h (mm)
!Gravity (kg/kWh)
!Volume (L/kWh)
!Voltage (V)
!Current (cont A)
!Current (peak A)
!Cell arrangement
!Cell type
!Chemistry
|-
|Tesla
|Model S 85kWh
|5.3
|26
|690
|315
|80
|4.9
|3.3
|22.8
|500
|750
|74p6s
|18650
|Li-ion
|-
|Tesla
|Model S 100kWh
|6.4
|28
|680
|315
|80
|4.4
|2.7
|22.8
|
|870
|86p6s
|18650
|Li-ion
|-
|Tesla
|Model 3 LR (inner)
|19.2
|98.9
|1854
|292
|90
|5.2
|2.5
|91.1
|
|971
|46p25s
|2170
|Li-ion
|-
|Tesla
|Model 3 LR (outer)
|17.7
|86.6
|1715
|292
|90
|4.9
|2.5
|83.9
|
|971
|46p23s
|2170
|Li-ion
|-
|Tesla
|Model 3 SR (inner)
|13.0
|58.9
|1385
|326
|90
|
|3.7
|91.1
|
|603
|31p24s
|2170
|Li-ion
|-
|Tesla
|Model 3 SR (outer)
|12.0
|58.9
|1380
|344
|90
|
|3.8
|83.9
|
|603
|31p24s
|2170
|Li-ion
|-
|Calb
|4S3P
|2.19
|12
|355
|151
|108
|5.5
|2.6
|14.6
|
|900
|3p4s
|Pouch
|Li-ion
|-
|Calb
|6S2P
|2.19
|12
|355
|151
|108
|5.5
|2.6
|22.2
|
|600
|2p6s
|Pouch
|Li-ion
|-
|Chevrolet
|Volt 2012
|4
|38
|470
|180
|280
|9.5
|5.9
|88.8
|
|676
|3p24s
|Pouch
|Li-ion
|-
|BMW
|i3 60Ah
|2
|13
|368
|178
|102
|6.5
|3.3
|28.8
|210
|350
|2p8s
|Prismatic
|Li-ion
|-
|BMW
|i3 94Ah
|4.15
|28
|410
|310
|150
|6.7
|4.6
|45.6
|
|409
|12s
|Prismatic
|Li-ion
|-
|BMW
|i3 120Ah
|5.3
|28
|410
|310
|150
|5.3
|3.6
|45.6
|
|360
|12s
|Prismatic
|Li-ion
|-
|BMW
|[[BMW Hybrid Battery Pack|PHEV 34Ah]]
|2.0
|13.05
|368
|178
|102
|6.525
|3.34
|59.0
|
|
|
|Prismatic
|Li-ion
|-
|Jaguar
|iPace
|2.5
|12
|340
|155
|112
|4.8
|2.4
|10.8
|720
|1200
|4p3s
|Pouch
|Li-ion
|-
|LG
|4P3S
|2.6
|12.8
|357
|151
|110
|4.9
|2.3
|11
|
|
|4p3s
|Pouch
|Li-ion
|-
|Mitsubishi
|Outlander
|2.4
|26
|646
|184
|130
|10.8
|6.4
|60
|
|240
|16s
|
|Li-ion
|-
|Nissan
|Leaf 24kWh
|0.5
|3.65
|300
|222
|34
|7.3
|4.5
|7.2
|130
|228
|2p2s
|Pouch
|Li-ion LMO
|-
|Nissan
|Leaf 30kWh
|1.25
|
|300
|222
|34
|
|3.6
|14.4
|
|
|2p4s
|Pouch
|Li-ion
|-
|Nissan
|Leaf 40kWh
|1.6
|8.7
|300
|222
|68
|5.4
|2.8
|14.4
|
|314
|2p4s
|Pouch
|Li-ion NMC
|-
|Nissan
|Leaf 62kWh
|2.58
|
|
|
|
|
|
|14.4
|
|
|3p4s
|
|Li-ion
|-
|PSA/Opel
|Pugeot E-208, Corsa E
|2.73
|12.7
|390
|150
|115
|4.6
|2.5
|21.9
|
|
|6p2s
|Pouch
|Li-ion
|-
|Volvo
|XC90 T8
|2.01
|12.1
|300
|180
|150
|6.0
|4.0
|59.2
|170
|340
|16s
|
|Li-ion
|-
|VW
|[[VW Hybrid Battery Packs|Passet GTE]]
|2.48
|23.4
|360-410
|225-235
|150
|9.4
|4.8-5.5
|88.8
|
|
|24s
|Prismatic
|Li-ion
|-
|VW
|[[VW Hybrid Battery Packs|Golf GTE]]
|1.086
|9.8
|355
|152
|110
|9.02
|5.5
|44
|
|
|12s
|Prismatic
|Li-ion
|-
|VW
|Touareg 14,1 kWh
|1.76
|12.3
|385
|150
|108
|7.0
|3.5
|45.25
|
|
|13s
|Prismatic
|Li-ion
|-
|VW
|id3/id4 55kWh, 62kWh
|6.85
|32
|225
|590
|110
|4.67
|2.13
|44.4
|
|
|12s2p
|
|
|-
|VW
|id3/id4 82kWh
|6.85
|32
|225
|590
|110
|4.67
|2.13
|29.6
|
|
|8s3p
|
|
|}

Toyota Prius Electric Power Assist Steering

2022-09-22T01:08:05Z

Mark: Adding a sentence at the start containing EPAS for future searching. This should be improved to a more descriptive intro.

The Toyota Prius Gen 2 electric power assist steering or EPAS is a popular way to add steering assist without an internal combustion engine.

A few threads from Gregski: https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=43205

His implementation starts at this post: https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=39368#p39368

And then he made his own video(s):

<youtube>8sI3gQ44pcw</youtube>

<youtube>FsjNPw7YXdc</youtube>

<youtube>EUUWRNDfkIk</youtube>

This is a popular modification to do, especially in the hotrodding community. There are articles, and many forum posts, with valuable information if you search online. The following are a small selection:

https://studebaker-info.org/Tech/Esteer/EPASPRIUS/epasprius.html

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/150-electric-power-steering-junkyard-prius-delivers/

https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/toyota-electric-power-steering-eps-conversion/

Below is the list of cars that are known to have fail-safe electric steering. Only (3) wire connections; Ignition On, Power, and Ground to the Steering ECU.

*2004-2009 Toyota Prius
*2009-2013 Toyota Corolla
*2006-2011 Toyota Yaris – (With ABS)
*2007-2009 Nissan Versa
*2009-2012 Nissan Cube
*2012-2014 Kia Soul

ECU Part Numbers:

*2004-2009 Toyota Prius 89650-47102
*2009-2013 Toyota Corolla 89650-02300
*2006-2011 Toyota Yaris – (With ABS) 89650-52120 / 52050
*2007-2009 Nissan Versa 28500-EM30A / 991-30303
*2009-2012 Nissan Cube 28500-1FC0B / JL501-000932
*2012-2014 Kia Soul B2563-99500 / 4PSG1312 / FPSG1312<ref>https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/toyota-electric-power-steering-eps-conversion/</ref>\
<references />
[[Category:OEM]]
[[Category:Toyota]]
[[Category:Power Steering]]

Toyota Prius Electric Power Assist Steering

2022-09-22T01:04:18Z

Mark: Adding categories (OEM, Toyota, Power Steering)

A few threads from Gregski: https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=43205

His implementation starts at this post: https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=39368#p39368

And then he made his own video(s):

<youtube>8sI3gQ44pcw</youtube>

<youtube>FsjNPw7YXdc</youtube>

<youtube>EUUWRNDfkIk</youtube>

This is a popular modification to do, especially in the hotrodding community. There are articles, and many forum posts, with valuable information if you search online. The following are a small selection:

https://studebaker-info.org/Tech/Esteer/EPASPRIUS/epasprius.html

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/150-electric-power-steering-junkyard-prius-delivers/

https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/toyota-electric-power-steering-eps-conversion/

Below is the list of cars that are known to have fail-safe electric steering. Only (3) wire connections; Ignition On, Power, and Ground to the Steering ECU.

*2004-2009 Toyota Prius
*2009-2013 Toyota Corolla
*2006-2011 Toyota Yaris – (With ABS)
*2007-2009 Nissan Versa
*2009-2012 Nissan Cube
*2012-2014 Kia Soul

ECU Part Numbers:

*2004-2009 Toyota Prius 89650-47102
*2009-2013 Toyota Corolla 89650-02300
*2006-2011 Toyota Yaris – (With ABS) 89650-52120 / 52050
*2007-2009 Nissan Versa 28500-EM30A / 991-30303
*2009-2012 Nissan Cube 28500-1FC0B / JL501-000932
*2012-2014 Kia Soul B2563-99500 / 4PSG1312 / FPSG1312<ref>https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/toyota-electric-power-steering-eps-conversion/</ref>\
<references />
[[Category:OEM]]
[[Category:Toyota]]
[[Category:Power Steering]]

Toyota Prius Electric Power Assist Steering

2022-09-22T00:54:44Z

Mark: Adding some more content, including Gregski's threads and videos

Toyota Prius Electric Power Assist Steering

2022-09-22T00:33:42Z

Mark: Bare bones start to a Prius Gen 2 EPAS page

Thread from Gregski:
https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=43205

And then he made his own video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8sI3gQ44pcw

Below is the list of cars that are known to have fail-safe electric steering. Only (3) wire connections; Ignition On, Power, and Ground to the Steering ECU. That’s it!

2004-2009 Toyota Prius
2009-2013 Toyota Corolla
2006-2011 Toyota Yaris – (With ABS)
2007-2009 Nissan Versa
2009-2012 Nissan Cube
2012-2014 Kia Soul
ECU Part Numbers:

2004-2009 Toyota Prius 89650-47102
2009-2013 Toyota Corolla 89650-02300
2006-2011 Toyota Yaris – (With ABS) 89650-52120 / 52050
2007-2009 Nissan Versa 28500-EM30A / 991-30303
2009-2012 Nissan Cube 28500-1FC0B / JL501-000932
2012-2014 Kia Soul B2563-99500 / 4PSG1312 / FPSG1312

https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/toyota-electric-power-steering-eps-conversion/

EV Conversion Parts

2022-09-22T00:17:14Z

Mark: /* Power Steering */ Adding Prius EPAS

== Motors ==

=== AC Induction Motors ===
* Siemens 1PV5135-4WS14

=== PMSM (Permanent Magnet Synchronous Motors) ===
These Requires [[Using FOC Software|FOC Firmware]].
* [[Configuration Files#Nissan Leaf Motor|Nissan Leaf EM57 (Gen 2)]]
* [[Configuration Files#Nissan Leaf Motor|Nissan Leaf EM61]] (Gen 1)
* Remy HVH-250

 There is a more general [[Motor List|motor list]] as well.

== Batteries ==
CALB 
LG Chem - BMW Hybrid 
LG Chem - BMW I3 
LG Chem - Chevy Volt 
LG Chem - Chrysler Pacifica Hybrid 
Tesla 

== Brakes ==

=== '''Vacuum Boosted''' ===

===== '''Vacuum Pumps''' =====
Vacuum pumps are available via several OEM and 3rd party manufacturers. Some options may include:
* [https://leedbrakes.com/p-33752-leed-brakes-bandit-series-vacuum-pump-kits.html Leed Brakes Bandit series] (apparently runs quiet)
* [https://www.aeroflowperformance.com/af49-1050-twin-piston-brake-vacuum-pump Aeroflow Performance Twin Piston Vacuum Pump Kit]

==== '''Vacuum Sensors:''' ====
* BOSCH 0 265 005 331 / 13581083
** Pin 3 - 5V
** Pin 2 - Gnd
** Pin 1 - Value - 0.48v under no vacuum
** Seems to have checkvalve built in.

=== '''Electrically Boosted:''' ===
There are a couple of options for electrically boosted braking systems, with one of the most popular being the [https://www.bosch-mobility-solutions.com/en/products-and-services/passenger-cars-and-light-commercial-vehicles/driving-safety-systems/brake-booster/ibooster/ Bosch iBooster].

More info on using the iBooster is available [https://www.evcreate.nl/electric-power-brakes/ here], and pinouts for the Tesla versions [https://www.evcreate.nl/wiring-the-tesla-ibooster/ here]

==== iBooster gen1 connectors: ====
Main connector (26-pin): Bosch "EuCon" 26p

* Main housing: 1928405762
* Cover: 1928405765
* Pins: Bosch BTC Terminal
** 1928498807 - BTC 4.8 / Terminal Sn / > 2.5 - 4.0 mm² (main power: pins 1 & 9)
** 1928498806 - BTC 2.8 / Terminal Sn / 1.5 - 2.5 mm² (constant power: pin 17)
** 1928498705 - BTC 1.5 / Terminal Sn / 0.35 - 0.5 mm² (ignition power: pin 20; signal pins 2, 8, 22, 23)
** 1928498805 - BTC 1.5 / Terminal Sn / 0.5 - 1.0 mm² (larger diameter alternative to 1928498705 above)
* Seals: Bosch BTC
** 1928301086 - BTC 4.8 / Seal / Blue (∅ 3.4 - ∅ 3.7 mm)
** 1928301206 - BTC 2.8 / Seal / Reddish Brown (∅ 2.0 - ∅ 2.7 mm)
** 1928301083 - BTC 1.5 / Seal / Grey (∅ 1.6 - ∅ 1.9 mm)
* Plugs: Bosch BTC
** 1928301207 - BTC 2.8 / Plug / Green
** 1928301087 - BTC 1.5 / Plug / White

Sensor connector (4-pin): TE MQS

* Housing: 1-967640-1
* Pins: 5-965906-5 (20 - 18 AWG)
* Seals: 1-967067-1 (∅ 1.4 - ∅ 2.1 mm)

==== iBooster Sourcing ====
{| class="wikitable"
|+VAG (VW, Audi, Porsche) part numbers:
!Part Number
!Generation
!Models available in
|-
|[https://parts.vw.com/p/65932554/5QE614105AH.html 5QE614105AH]
|
|Volkswagen e-Golf (2016-2018)
Audi A3 Sportback e-tron (2017)
|-
|5QE614105AK
|Gen 1
|Volkswagen e-Golf (2016-2018)
Volkswagen Passat GTE (2017)

Volkswagen Golf GTE (2017)
|-
|[https://parts.vw.com/p/74221192/5QE614105AN.html 5QE614105AN]
|Gen 2
|Volkswagen e-Golf (2018-2019)
|-
|[https://parts.vw.com/p/71928656/5QE614105AQ.html 5QE614105AQ]
|Gen 2
|Volkswagen e-Golf (2018-2019)
|-
|[https://parts.vw.com/p/65932554/5QE614105S.html 5QE614105S]
|
|Volkswagen e-Golf (2016-2018)
Audi A3 Sportback e-tron (2017)
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+Tesla part numbers:
!Part Number
!Generation
!Models available in
|-
|1037123-00-A
|Gen 1
|Tesla Model S
Tesla Model X
|-
|1037123-00-B
|Gen 1
|Tesla Model S
Tesla Model X
|-
|1044671-00-D
|
|Tesla Model 3
|-
|1044671-00-E
|Gen 2
|Tesla Model 3
|}
An alternative list (mostly the same) of iBooster donors can be found here: https://www.evcreate.nl/ibooster-donor-vehicles/

== Charger ==
[[Battery Charging|Built-In]] 
Chevy Volt / Lear 
[[Tesla Model S/X Charger|Tesla Gen 2 10kW(?)]] 
[[Tesla Model 3 Charger/DCDC ("PCS")|Tesla PCS]]

[[Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV]]

== Contactors ==
[[Panasonic AEV14012 Contactor|Panasonic AEV14012]]

== DC/DC ==
Chevy Volt / Lear 
Prius Inverters

tesla model s

== High Voltage Junction Box ==
Building a junction box

== Power Steering ==
[[Opel Electric Power Steering Column]]

[[Opel Power Steering Pump]]

[[Toyota Prius Electric Power Assist Steering]]

[[VW Electromechanical Power Steering Rack]]

Opel Electric Power Steering Column

2022-09-22T00:09:42Z

Mark: removing random "none" in the first sentence, which didn't make sense.

The Vauxhall/Opel electric power steering column has been retrofitted to various cars in the EV conversion world for quite a while.

=== Wiring ===
There's 2 connectors, one for the power, Red 6mm2 is the 12v power, though a 50a fuse and the other negative, again 6mm2.

The other connector has the signals, all 0.5mm2 wires.

Blue/Red Trace - ABS Speed input
Red/White Trace - Engine Multi Timer Input
Black - Ignition(5a fuse)
Green - Engine RPM
Brown/White Trace - diagnostic output.

== Usage ==

The Vauxhall Corsa EPS column varies it’s steering assistance depending on steering wheel torque input and to a certain extent speed. The EPAS ECU contains 3 assistance maps – Max, Med and Min, which are switched between depending on the speed signal.

Maximum 0-18mph
Medium 18-45mph
Minimum 45+mph

==== Speed Signal ====
The speed signal is a 0-12v square wave. If this signal is lost, it reverts to a default assistance map.

*TODO* Add details of signal to map

==== Engine Multi Timer Input ====
This is a 12v signal, supposed to be given 10 seconds after the engine has started, but some forums say it can be ignition switched or left floating.

==== Engine RPM ====
This is required to get assistance, a 0-12v square, 55Hz to 30kHz, 20% to 50% duty cycle.

==== ABS input ====
Without an ABS input, the column will offer maximum assistance. The higher the frequency input, the less assistance the rack will offer. Again 12v square shaped waveform.

==== Sources/Further Reading ====
* http://www.super7thheaven.co.uk/corsa-c-electric-power-steering-epas/
* https://www.oudevolvo.nl/en/blog/2018/07/13/power-steering-in-amazon-from-opel-corsa/

[[Category:OEM]]
[[Category:Opel]]
[[Category:Power Steering]]

EV Conversion Parts

2022-09-21T01:38:16Z

Mark: /* Power Steering */ Added additional power steering pages to the list

== Motors ==

=== AC Induction Motors ===
* Siemens 1PV5135-4WS14

=== PMSM (Permanent Magnet Synchronous Motors) ===
These Requires [[Using FOC Software|FOC Firmware]].
* [[Configuration Files#Nissan Leaf Motor|Nissan Leaf EM57 (Gen 2)]]
* [[Configuration Files#Nissan Leaf Motor|Nissan Leaf EM61]] (Gen 1)
* Remy HVH-250

 There is a more general [[Motor List|motor list]] as well.

== Batteries ==
CALB 
LG Chem - BMW Hybrid 
LG Chem - BMW I3 
LG Chem - Chevy Volt 
LG Chem - Chrysler Pacifica Hybrid 
Tesla 

== Brakes ==

=== '''Vacuum Boosted''' ===

===== '''Vacuum Pumps''' =====
Vacuum pumps are available via several OEM and 3rd party manufacturers. Some options may include:
* [https://leedbrakes.com/p-33752-leed-brakes-bandit-series-vacuum-pump-kits.html Leed Brakes Bandit series] (apparently runs quiet)
* [https://www.aeroflowperformance.com/af49-1050-twin-piston-brake-vacuum-pump Aeroflow Performance Twin Piston Vacuum Pump Kit]

==== '''Vacuum Sensors:''' ====
* BOSCH 0 265 005 331 / 13581083
** Pin 3 - 5V
** Pin 2 - Gnd
** Pin 1 - Value - 0.48v under no vacuum
** Seems to have checkvalve built in.

=== '''Electrically Boosted:''' ===
There are a couple of options for electrically boosted braking systems, with one of the most popular being the [https://www.bosch-mobility-solutions.com/en/products-and-services/passenger-cars-and-light-commercial-vehicles/driving-safety-systems/brake-booster/ibooster/ Bosch iBooster].

More info on using the iBooster is available [https://www.evcreate.nl/electric-power-brakes/ here], and pinouts for the Tesla versions [https://www.evcreate.nl/wiring-the-tesla-ibooster/ here]

==== iBooster gen1 connectors: ====
Main connector (26-pin): Bosch "EuCon" 26p

* Main housing: 1928405762
* Cover: 1928405765
* Pins: Bosch BTC Terminal
** 1928498807 - BTC 4.8 / Terminal Sn / > 2.5 - 4.0 mm² (main power: pins 1 & 9)
** 1928498806 - BTC 2.8 / Terminal Sn / 1.5 - 2.5 mm² (constant power: pin 17)
** 1928498705 - BTC 1.5 / Terminal Sn / 0.35 - 0.5 mm² (ignition power: pin 20; signal pins 2, 8, 22, 23)
** 1928498805 - BTC 1.5 / Terminal Sn / 0.5 - 1.0 mm² (larger diameter alternative to 1928498705 above)
* Seals: Bosch BTC
** 1928301086 - BTC 4.8 / Seal / Blue (∅ 3.4 - ∅ 3.7 mm)
** 1928301206 - BTC 2.8 / Seal / Reddish Brown (∅ 2.0 - ∅ 2.7 mm)
** 1928301083 - BTC 1.5 / Seal / Grey (∅ 1.6 - ∅ 1.9 mm)
* Plugs: Bosch BTC
** 1928301207 - BTC 2.8 / Plug / Green
** 1928301087 - BTC 1.5 / Plug / White

Sensor connector (4-pin): TE MQS

* Housing: 1-967640-1
* Pins: 5-965906-5 (20 - 18 AWG)
* Seals: 1-967067-1 (∅ 1.4 - ∅ 2.1 mm)

==== iBooster Sourcing ====
{| class="wikitable"
|+VAG (VW, Audi, Porsche) part numbers:
!Part Number
!Generation
!Models available in
|-
|[https://parts.vw.com/p/65932554/5QE614105AH.html 5QE614105AH]
|
|Volkswagen e-Golf (2016-2018)
Audi A3 Sportback e-tron (2017)
|-
|5QE614105AK
|Gen 1
|Volkswagen e-Golf (2016-2018)
Volkswagen Passat GTE (2017)

Volkswagen Golf GTE (2017)
|-
|[https://parts.vw.com/p/74221192/5QE614105AN.html 5QE614105AN]
|Gen 2
|Volkswagen e-Golf (2018-2019)
|-
|[https://parts.vw.com/p/71928656/5QE614105AQ.html 5QE614105AQ]
|Gen 2
|Volkswagen e-Golf (2018-2019)
|-
|[https://parts.vw.com/p/65932554/5QE614105S.html 5QE614105S]
|
|Volkswagen e-Golf (2016-2018)
Audi A3 Sportback e-tron (2017)
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+Tesla part numbers:
!Part Number
!Generation
!Models available in
|-
|1037123-00-A
|Gen 1
|Tesla Model S
Tesla Model X
|-
|1037123-00-B
|Gen 1
|Tesla Model S
Tesla Model X
|-
|1044671-00-D
|
|Tesla Model 3
|-
|1044671-00-E
|Gen 2
|Tesla Model 3
|}
An alternative list (mostly the same) of iBooster donors can be found here: https://www.evcreate.nl/ibooster-donor-vehicles/

== Charger ==
[[Battery Charging|Built-In]] 
Chevy Volt / Lear 
[[Tesla Model S/X Charger|Tesla Gen 2 10kW(?)]] 
[[Tesla Model 3 Charger/DCDC ("PCS")|Tesla PCS]]

[[Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV]]

== Contactors ==
[[Panasonic AEV14012 Contactor|Panasonic AEV14012]]

== DC/DC ==
Chevy Volt / Lear 
Prius Inverters

tesla model s

== High Voltage Junction Box ==
Building a junction box

== Power Steering ==
[[Opel Electric Power Steering Column]]

[[Opel Power Steering Pump]]

[[VW Electromechanical Power Steering Rack]]

Toyota Inverter Clocked Serial Interface Protocol

2022-03-15T23:56:01Z

Mark: Linkified GS450 and Yaris to the appropriate inverter wiki pages

This page is dedicated to use of Toyota inverters (Lexus / Camary / Gen3 Prius / Auris / Yaris) unmodified via the serial protocol (REQ, CLK, HTM, MTH). This page also contains wiring and connector information for the various models of Toyota Inverters.

== Toyota Protocol ==

* REQ Request line from hybrid controller to Inverter
* CLK Clock signal from hybrid controller to Inverter (Constant 500KHz)
* HTM Hybrid controller to Inverter data frame
* MTH Inverter to Hybrid controller data frame

[[File:HybridFrameSizes.png|thumb|The number of bytes sent/received during a transfer will depend on the model of inverter, the table above outlines the number of bytes for the different inverter models.]]

Bus Transfer Sequence starts with the REQ line changing state

Toyota Serial example waveforms

Data logging Toyota Serial Protocol

== Toyota Inverter Connectors ==

[[Lexus GS450h Inverter|Lexus GS450]] / Camry

[[Auris/Yaris Inverter|Gen3 Pruis / Auris / Yaris]]
[[File:Gen3Pin out.png|thumb]]

[[File:Prius Gen3 - Auris - Yaris Connector Body .jpg|thumb|Prius Gen3 / Auris / Yaris Connector Body ]]
[[Category:OEM]] [[Category:Toyota]]
[[Category:Inverter]]

Toyota Auris/Yaris Inverter

2022-03-15T19:56:01Z

Mark: Formatting and capitalization cleanup

Th Auris/Yaris Inverter Board is an open source project to repurpose Toyota Auris/Yaris (and Prius C , Prius Aqua and Lexus CT200H) inverters for DIY EV use.

The inverters are nearly identical to Toyota Prius Gen 3 inverters, with a smaller format logic board to fit under a sloped casing. It is believed to have a smaller main capacitor and hence be of lower power capabilities [* Needs testing to confirm and adding here ]

They are inexpensive (<£100 in UK at the start of 2021) and suitable for a variety of EV / Charger and other inverter projects.

The Project consists of a open inverter circuit board (adapted from Prius Gen3 board) and programming which replaces the OEM logic board in the Auris/Yaris inverter.

This allows independent control of mg1 power stage, mg2 power stage, buck/boost converter and the DC/DC converter.

=== Resources ===
Support thread is here : https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=767

For using it as a charger , thread is here : https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=825

Resources and design files on Github : https://github.com/damienmaguire/Yaris-Auris-Inverter

Available on the EVBMW.COM webshop : [https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-webshop/toyota-built-and-tested-boards/auris-yaris-inverter-logic-board-kit evbmw.com Yaris/Auris boards] in partial built and full kit format.

There is a Auris/Yaris version of the dual motor board which allows both MG1 and MG2 of Toyota transmissions or (any 2 other suitable motors) to be powered by the same inverter, support thread here: https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=1051

=== Timeline ===
17/05/20 : Prototype build commenced at JLCPCB.

[[Category:OEM]] [[Category:Toyota]] [[Category:Inverter]]

28/06/20 : Block 2 boards with corrections to incorrect pinouts and component values now available from the evbmw webshop. https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-w ... -board-kit

24/09/20 Firmware now available to run the buck/boost module as an AC onboard charger: HERE: https://github.com/celeron55/prius3charger_buck

Schematic and pcb layout uploaded to github : https://github.com/damienmaguire/Yaris-Auris-Inverter

Design files available to Patrons only as of this date. <nowiki>https://www.patreon.com/evbmw</nowiki>

Schematic and pcb layout for Dual Motor boards on Github here : https://github.com/damienmaguire/Prius-Gen3-Inverter/tree/master/Small%20board%20V1d

=== Buildup and setup ===
Most of the build-up / setup is identical to the V1C Prius board here: [[Toyota Prius Gen3 Board]]

Video build tutorials here : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QE-zym8iIgM&t=439s ,here : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nu5_OBOPk4s&t=319s and here<nowiki/>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xoNs2NqjXd8

FOC Setup and tuning is as per Prius gen3 here : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tirDQJ6iH28&t=2306s

=== Also Note ===
But also note : (Source https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=767 )

# On the Yaris boards (block111 and before) when using resolver you would need to remove the two pullups R30 and R29. See schematic :

https://raw.githubusercontent.com/damie ... ematic.pdf

2. There is an error on early boards (block 111 and before) : MG1 resistor divider values are wrong. R41 and 42 should be 6k2 not 4k7 and R46 and R45 should be 3k6 not 4k7.

3. The MG2 current sensor socket has the pins reversed. this can be solved by cutting the socket to allow the plug in upside down or by cutting and resoldering the current sensor wires. Plugging them in will kill the -5v output of PS1 (a SGM3204 SOT if you live in china ) or a LM2776DBVT for europe

4. Conn11 is the external hvil which is not used.

5. vcc+5v may be problematic , it may be at the limit of it's current due to use by Wifi and current sensors possibly causing a reduced Vcc 5v. try adding an external +5v line.. [ * needs confirming]

Auris/Yaris Inverter:

2022-03-15T19:49:03Z

Mark: Mark moved page Auris/Yaris Inverter: to Auris/Yaris Inverter: Removing colon in title. This aligns the format with other pages in the wiki, and was likely only there in error.

#REDIRECT [[Auris/Yaris Inverter]]

Toyota Auris/Yaris Inverter

2022-03-15T19:49:03Z

Mark: Mark moved page Auris/Yaris Inverter: to Auris/Yaris Inverter: Removing colon in title. This aligns the format with other pages in the wiki, and was likely only there in error.

Auris/Yaris Inverter Board is an open source project to repurpose Toyota Auris/Yaris (and Prius -C , Prius Aqua and Lexus CT200H) inverters for DIY EV use.

These are nearly identical to Toyota Prius Gen 3 inverters with a smaller format logic board to fit under a sloped casing. It is believed to have a smaller main capacitor and hence be of lower power capabilities [* Needs testing to confirm and adding here ]

They are very cheap (<£100 in UK at the start of 2021) and suitable for a variety of EV /Charger and other inverter projects.

The Project consists of a open inverter circuit board (adapted from Prius Gen3 board) and programming which replaces the OEM logic board in the Auris/Yaris inverter.

This allows independent control of mg1 power stage, mg2 power stage, buck/boost converter and the dc/dc converter.

=== Resources ===
Support thread is here : https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=767

For using it as a charger , thread is here : https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=825

Resources and design files on Github : https://github.com/damienmaguire/Yaris-Auris-Inverter

Available on the EVBMW.COM webshop : [https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-webshop/toyota-built-and-tested-boards/auris-yaris-inverter-logic-board-kit evbmw.com Yaris/Auris boards] in partial built and full kit format.

There is a Auris/Yaris version of the dual motor board which allows both MG1 and MG2 of Toyota transmissions or (any 2 other suitable motors) to be powered by the same inverter, support thread here: https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=1051

=== Timeline ===
17/05/20 : Prototype build commenced at JLCPCB.

[[Category:OEM]] [[Category:Toyota]] [[Category:Inverter]]

28/06/20 : Block 2 boards with corrections to incorrect pinouts and component values now available from the evbmw webshop. https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-w ... -board-kit

24/09/20 Firmware now available to run the buck/boost module as an AC onboard charger: HERE: https://github.com/celeron55/prius3charger_buck

Schematic and pcb layout uploaded to github : https://github.com/damienmaguire/Yaris-Auris-Inverter

Design files available to Patrons only as of this date. <nowiki>https://www.patreon.com/evbmw</nowiki>

Schematic and pcb layout for Dual Motor boards on Github here : https://github.com/damienmaguire/Prius-Gen3-Inverter/tree/master/Small%20board%20V1d

=== Buildup and setup ===
Most of the build up /setup is identical to the V1C Prius board here: [[Toyota Prius Gen3 Board]]

Video build tutorials here : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QE-zym8iIgM&t=439s ,here : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nu5_OBOPk4s&t=319s and here<nowiki/>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xoNs2NqjXd8

FOC Setup and tuning is as per Prius gen3 here : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tirDQJ6iH28&t=2306s

=== Also Note ===
But also note : (Source https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=767 )

# On the Yaris boards (block111 and before) when using resolver you would need to remove the two pullups R30 and R29. See schematic :

https://raw.githubusercontent.com/damie ... ematic.pdf

2. There is an error on early boards (block 111 and before) : MG1 resistor divider values are wrong. R41 and 42 should be 6k2 not 4k7 and R46 and R45 should be 3k6 not 4k7.

3. The MG2 current sensor socket has the pins reversed. this can be solved by cutting the socket to allow the plug in upside down or by cutting and resoldering the current sensor wires. Plugging them in will kill the -5v output of PS1 (a SGM3204 SOT if you live in china ) or a LM2776DBVT for europe

4. Conn11 is the external hvil which is not used.

5. vcc+5v may be problematic , it may be at the limit of it's current due to use by Wifi and current sensors possibly causing a reduced Vcc 5v. try adding an external +5v line.. [ * needs confirming]