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	<id>https://openinverter.org/wiki/api.php?action=feedcontributions&amp;feedformat=atom&amp;user=EdAtki</id>
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	<updated>2026-04-29T01:38:47Z</updated>
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	<entry>
		<id>https://openinverter.org/wiki/index.php?title=Nissan_Leaf_Gen2_Board&amp;diff=5875</id>
		<title>Nissan Leaf Gen2 Board</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://openinverter.org/wiki/index.php?title=Nissan_Leaf_Gen2_Board&amp;diff=5875"/>
		<updated>2025-09-17T16:54:57Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;EdAtki: Add link to connector part numbers page&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;[[File:DSC03474-1000x700.jpg|thumb|open inverter replacement mother board kit. Assembled and installed in a gen 2 nissan leaf inverter]]&lt;br /&gt;
The Nissan Leaf gen 2 board is a replacement mother board for the gen 2 leaf inverters. it utilizes a adapter board to fit a rev 3 openinverter board in into the leaf inverter.&lt;br /&gt;
* Full control over the nissan power stage.&lt;br /&gt;
* power beyond the stock 80kw. (up to140kw (or more?))&lt;br /&gt;
* wifi interface + tuning&lt;br /&gt;
* OTA software updates and parameters &lt;br /&gt;
* regen and cruise control&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== The Kit ==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:966D2AF0-312F-4A8D-8980-0B13C9BDF92A.jpg|thumb|Gen2 leaf inverter mother board replacement kit. Including revv3 open inverter brain board]]&lt;br /&gt;
The kit comprises of: &lt;br /&gt;
* openinverter rev3 board pre programmed with leaf motor tune &lt;br /&gt;
* Esp8266 wifi board &lt;br /&gt;
* adapter board &lt;br /&gt;
* various connectors  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* a handful of some basic components    &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The kit is designed to drop in place of the original Nissan logic board.  The adapter board is designed to re-use the large proprietary connector that is mounted on the original logic board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Kit shop link: https://openinverter.org/shop/index.php?route=product/product&amp;amp;product_id=57&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Nissan Board Removal ==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Nissan inverter board.jpg|alt=Nissan board, yet to be removed. The large connector on the left must be salvaged and re-used.￼|thumb|OEM Nissan logic board, yet to be removed. The large connector on the left must be salvaged and re-used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3 allen head bolts can be see in bottom half of photo&lt;br /&gt;
]]The inverter casing attaches directly to the motor.&lt;br /&gt;
* remove the inverter from the motor:&lt;br /&gt;
# remove the 2 torrox screws holding the inverter/motor phase wire connection cover on.&lt;br /&gt;
# remove the 3 exposed hex head bolts. each bolt is a phase connections, keep these separate from the rest of the bolts&lt;br /&gt;
# lift the inverter off the motor, be carful not to bend or nock the coper phase connections.&lt;br /&gt;
* taking the inverter apart&lt;br /&gt;
# remove the 4 10mm hex head bolts around the connector(?)&lt;br /&gt;
# remove the connector(?) cover&lt;br /&gt;
# remove all the hex head bolts around the inverter&lt;br /&gt;
# with a mallet tap around the seam in the inverter casing to loosen the sealant&lt;br /&gt;
# pry the case open, carefully lift the 2 case half&#039;s apart.&lt;br /&gt;
* removing the mother board&lt;br /&gt;
the oem mother board is easly distinguished as it has the large proprietary connector attached. It is on it&#039;s own aluminum bracket attached to the case by 3 allen head bolts. &lt;br /&gt;
# disconnect the plugs from the four connectors at the top of the board.&lt;br /&gt;
# remove the allen bolts to free the bracket and board.&lt;br /&gt;
# remove the screws holding the board to the bracket &amp;lt;u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Nissan uses some very strong thread lock&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt; so be prepared for some of the screw heads to shear.*carefully heating the screw will help break down the thread lock&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Nissan Proprietary connector.jpg|alt=Nissan Proprietary connector as seen from outside the housing.￼|thumb|Nissan Proprietary connector as seen from outside the housing.]][[File:Leaf adapter pin map.png|alt=Pin function descriptions, pins as seen from outside the housing|thumb|Proprietary connector pin function descriptions, pins as seen from outside the housing.]]&lt;br /&gt;
Once the board has been removed from the carrier,the large connector must be salvaged from it. One method is shown in the swap video, a vacuum soldering iron is also known to work.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Swap video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T_6hw6vGzfM&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Kit Build ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Solder the components to the board as per the instructions. &lt;br /&gt;
# The large proprietary connector must be salvaged from the original Nissan logic board. as it is not available on the open market. once salvaged, solder it onto the adapter board.&lt;br /&gt;
# plug in the rev 3 board and wifi adapter.&lt;br /&gt;
# clean up the wiring harness &lt;br /&gt;
# connect 12v to power up the board and test that it is working. login to the wifi interface.&lt;br /&gt;
# Use fresh screws to attach the board to the carrier and bolt it back in place using the allen head screws.&lt;br /&gt;
# connect the gate drivers to the adapter board&lt;br /&gt;
# see [[Main Board Version 3|&#039;&#039;rev3 board page&#039;&#039;]] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Proprietary Connector ==&lt;br /&gt;
Not all pins of the connector are available. The top group are blanked off, so the brake and BMS signals are not available.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The resolver and CAN bus signals remain on the same pins as used by Nissan. If other signals are required then they must be added to the female connector.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Part numbers for this connector can be found here: [[Connector Part Numbers#Nissan leaf gen2 inverter|Connector Part Numbers]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Toyota hybrid series car inverters (Gen 3 Prius confirmed) use the same connector.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
part number for matting connector g926047010 (undertested on the leaf but seems to fit Prius gen 3 https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=12668#p12668)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A 3D printable plug for the 35pin ampseal connector may work in this instance.(originally designed for the Prius gen 3 inverter) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=836&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
orginal form post with a set of variants&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=488&amp;amp;start=100#p11671&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are multiple part numbers for the large 35 way Ampseal through hole socket, with small mating differences, be sure to get a matching pair.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
TE connectivity &#039;&#039;&#039;776164-1&#039;&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;&#039;776163-1&#039;&#039;&#039; are a matched pair. Look for the male connector that comes with a gasket. ( these are a right angle pin connector, the straight pin might be a better option)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Wiring ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
the adapter board in the kit is set up so the original oem wiring harness works with the open inverter board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Contactors: ===&lt;br /&gt;
The output driver(uln2003) on the openinverter board pulls to ground, so connect the negative lead of your pre charge contactor to OUT_PRE (pin 43) and the negative lead of your positive contactor to OUT_DCSW(pin42)  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
positive leads connected to fused 12v &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Most conversions have the negative contactor switch on via the ignition key. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== throttle/break pedal wiring: === &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
wiring is based on the parameters you chose in the web interface: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== dual channel throttle: ====&lt;br /&gt;
whipper lead 1 -&amp;gt; THROTTLE1 (pin 29) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
whipper lead 2 -&amp;gt; THROTTLE2 (pin 28) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
positive lead(s) -&amp;gt; 5v (pin26) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
negative lead(s) -&amp;gt;GND (pin47/49) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== throttle/regen: ====&lt;br /&gt;
channel 1 throttle  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
channel 2 break pedal (for variable regen)  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
throttle pedal whipper lead 1 -&amp;gt; THROTTLE1 (pin 29) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
brake pedal whipper lead  -&amp;gt; THROTTLE2 (pin 28) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
positive leads -&amp;gt; 5v (pin26) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
negative leads -&amp;gt;GND (pin47/49)  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Leaf OEM pre-wired connections ===&lt;br /&gt;
if using the oem leaf connector, the following connections are already populated:&lt;br /&gt;
* resolver&lt;br /&gt;
* motor temp&lt;br /&gt;
* power &lt;br /&gt;
* main contactor&lt;br /&gt;
* can high/low&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Diagram found here: &amp;lt;nowiki&amp;gt;http://productions.8dromeda.net/c55-leaf-inverter-protocol.html&amp;lt;/nowiki&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;pre style=&amp;quot;white-space: pre;&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
+-----------------------------------+  +------------+&lt;br /&gt;
| 47   46   21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 |  |       x  x |&lt;br /&gt;
|           29 28 27 26 25  x 23 22 |  |  6 x  x  x |&lt;br /&gt;
| 49   48    x  x  x  x  x  x  x  x |  | 10 x  x  x |&lt;br /&gt;
|           45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 |  |    x  x  x |&lt;br /&gt;
+-----------------------------------+  +------------+&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/pre&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
{|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| - 6 = OUT_BRAKE&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| - 10 = IN_BMS&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| - 14 = CANH *&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| - 15 = CANL *&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| - 16 = IN_FORWARD&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| - 17 = RES_S2 *&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| - 18 = RES_S4 *&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| - 19 = RES_R1 *&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| - 20 = RES_S1 *&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| - 21 = RES_S3 *&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| - 22 = IN_START&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| - 23 = IN_BRAKE&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| - 25 = IN_REVERSE&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| - 26 = 5V&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| - 27 = RES_R2 (GND) *&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| - 28 = THROTTLE2&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| - 29 = THROTTLE1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| - 38 = IN_CRUISE&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| - 39 = OUT_PWM&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| - 40 = OUT_ERR&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| - 41 = OUT_OVTG&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| - 42 = OUT_DCSW * (! 12V input on original harness, make sure not to connect to 12V but to DC switch!)&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| - 43 = OUT_PRE&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| - 44 = MTEMP1 *&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| - 45 = MTEMP2 *&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| - 46 = 12V *&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| - 47 = GND *&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| - 48 = 12V *&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| - 49 = GND *&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Only pins with * are populated on the OEM wire harness&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Self-Printing ==&lt;br /&gt;
The Leaf adapter board can be self-printed from gerber files (e.g. with JLCPCB), with two caveats for the SMD version:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
- when populating the board IC1 needs to be a 5V tolerant AND gate (not NAND), e.g. MC74HC1G08DTT1G&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
- the rear plane is at 5V, so a little plastic disc or similar needs to be added to avoid charging the inverter casing at 5V&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:OpenInverter]] [[Category:Nissan]] [[Category:Inverter]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>EdAtki</name></author>
	</entry>
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