openinverter.org wiki - User contributions [en]

I want a powerful EV Conversion

2023-01-10T06:47:44Z

Bobby come lately: Added structure and detail

If you’re building an EV conversion for performance, then here are some of the things you should consider.

=== Donor Car ===
Clearly the size and weight of your donor car will have a massive impact on your choice of other components. A small, lightweight car will need less power to achieve significant performance, and may not have the structural strength to support a very large drive unit or the torque it produces. Plus, the weight of batteries required to deliver performance over any sensible range may make the car unsafe or unwieldy.

Conversely, a larger, heavier vehicle may require a larger drive unit to deliver serious performance. But this might require a lot more fabrication than fitting a smaller drive unit - especially if, as with the Tesla units, you’re installing it in place of a rear diff or transaxle.

=== Donor part suitability ===
Performance electric motors deliver a lot of torque - much more than the donor car may have been designed to cope with. If you’re swapping in an electric motor, consider upgrading not just the car’s structure, but also the other parts of the drivetrain. Gearboxes, drive shafts, differentials etc. All of this will need to be factored in to the cost of the conversion.

=== Motor options ===
Performance motor options go beyond the Tesla drivetrain. For example, a Nissan leaf motor can be capable of over 140kw - plenty of power for smaller applications. The Lexus CVT units offer over 200kw at appropriate voltages.

Consider what will be the most appropriate fit for your vehicle. If it’s rear-wheel drive, Tesla units are an option but you could also use the Lexus CVT units mounted in place of the gearbox. Front-wheel drive, Tesla units are again an option but you could look at the Lexus RX450h transaxle.

Consider whether your application needs higher peak power or higher continuous power. The original tesla large drive units have a very high peak power, ie they can deliver 500-600hp momentarily. great for 0-60 times. But for racing, a motor with higher continuous power rating would be more appropriate, such as that from the Model 3.

* [[Tesla Model 3 Rear Drive Unit]],
*[[Tesla Model 3 Front Drive Unit]]
*[[Tesla Inverter FAQ]]
* [[:Category:Nissan|Nissan leaf motor (140kw, 160kw)]]
* [[Lexus GS450h Drivetrain|Lexus GS450h]]
* [[Toyota/Lexus GS300h CVT|Lexus GS300h]]

=== Batteries ===
High performance will usually mean higher current draw. That means you will need batteries with higher power density, which doesn’t always equate to higher energy density (which is what offers greater range).

Hybrid batteries often have higher power density, as well as being smaller and lighter than full-sized packs, making them good options for performance applications.

* [[Tesla Model 3 Battery]]
* Chevy Volt battery
* Pacifica Hybrid modules

=== Ancillaries ===
Depending on your application, you may choose to leave out some ancillaries. Lightweight race cars may not need power steering, and you may even be able to leave out the charger and DC-DC converter.[[File:GT86.png|thumb|[https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=326 Toyota GT86 with Nissan Leaf Motor]]]

[[File:Der Panzer.png|thumb|[https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=29 Tesla Powered BMW E31]]]

If you are looking for a [[I want a cheap ev conversion|cheap ev conversion]] check the sister page.

[[Category:Introduction]] [[Category:Tutorials]] [[Category:Conversions]]

I want a cheap EV Conversion

2022-12-15T10:21:05Z

Bobby come lately: Fleshed out component options

Cars can be converted to electric at very reasonable cost, as long as you have the skills and realistic ambitions. Pay attention to the warning above.

With that out of the way, here’s how you might go about building a cost-effective EV conversion.

=== Getting Started ===
Unless you already have a car, start by getting hold of a motor and inverter and getting the motor spinning. This will give you a sense of what you are undertaking with the minimum investment, as the car and batteries will likely be your biggest costs. Work out which of the options below might best fit your planned project, and choose an appropriate control method - OI board, ZombieVerter, or one of the other options out there.

You can power this trial set up using a benchtop power supply, a few 12V lead acid batteries, or rectified mains (again, if you know what you are doing). Follow the instructions for spinning the motor using the motor in Open Loop, with the FOC firmware, or with the ZombieVerter as appropriate.

Once you're comfortable that you can build a working drivetrain, move on to choosing a car.

=== Choosing the Car ===

==== Rule 1: Don't buy a rust bucket. ====
This is the quickest route to making a cheap conversion into an expensive one. You would be spending time and resources on fixing additional parts of the car and are not able to focus time and effort on the actual conversion process. Ideally start with a reasonably maintained, working car (some funds recovered from component sale) or one that would be uneconomical to fix (big engine/gearbox overhaul required). Something with a current MOT/TUV certificate, or equivalent, would be a smart choice.

==== Battery location ====
Batteries are most easily mounted in simply-shaped boxes. Consider where you might put these when choosing a car. Will you give up the boot? Is there space under the bonnet with the ICE removed? Really small cars can be challenging.

Think about the size of battery pack you need. A relatively small hybrid pack (<10kWh) can make for a very capable city runabout. But for longer ranges you would need a larger pack or multiple packs.

==== Drivetrain ====
How will you power the car? Is it front or rear wheel drive? Will you bolt the electric motor up to the existing gearbox? (Yes, you can have an EV with a manual box) If so you will need to make up (or have made) an adapter plate and coupler. Or will you link the motor/drive unit direct to the wheels, requiring custom drive shafts.

==== Ancillary Systems ====
Older cars will have largely mechanical or individually wired systems for brakes and instruments etc. These systems will largely not care what power plant is installed and keep working. Later cars will likely use LINBUS or CANBUS. And the most recent cars might use formats like FlexRAY. In order to re-use existing systems you will need to find a way to integrate your new drivetrain with the existing systems. For some vehicles, this work has already been done and may be included in the code for the ZombieVerter. For others there might be standalone solutions, or existing knowledge on the forum/wiki. But with some vehicles, you might have to find your own answers (please share them if you do).[[File:Audi A2 Conversion.png|thumb|[https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=650 Audi A2 with Prius Inverter]]]
[[File:VW Bug EV.png|thumb|[https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1130 VW Beetle 2003 EV conversion]]]

=== Components ===

==== Motor and Inverter ====
To keep things simple (and cheap), you will want integrated components that fulfill multiple functions in your build at the same time. Proven combinations include:

* [[Toyota Prius Gen2 Inverter]] and transaxle
* Toyota Prius Gen3 Inverter and transaxle
* [[:Category:Nissan|Nissan]] LEAF "stack"
* [[Mitsubishi Outlander Rear Drive Unit]] & [[Mitsubishi Outlander Rear Inverter|Inverter]]

==== Batteries ====
Batteries are likely to be your biggest cost other than the car. Perhaps the cheapest option is re-use a PHEV pack from a BMW or VW, though the market is fluctuating all the time. This will typically provide you with 8-12kWh of batteries in a small number of compact modules, interconnects to hook them up, and a 'safety box' from which you can re-use the contactors, fuse, pre-charge resistor and relay.

Alternatives would be the Nissan Leaf battery modules and BMS, though these can be more work in repurposing.

==== AC Charging & DC-DC Convertor ====
Low power chargers from the likes of the [[Mitsubishi Outlander DCDC OBC|Mitsubishi Outlander]] are available relatively cheaply and also provide an easy-to-use DC-DC converter. Likewise the Nissan Leaf PDM gives you everything you need.

The Prius inverters can also be used to provide charging and DC-DC conversion for a truly compact option.

==== DC Charging ====
Smaller battery packs can be compensated for by enabling [[Rapid Charging|rapid charging.]] ChaDeMo and CCS are both now available as DIY options, using a variety of control options - notably the BMW i3 LIM for CCS.

=== Legalities ===
If you are on a budget, make sure your locality allows what you are trying to do:

[https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=543 UK] [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2379 UK2] [[United Kingdom]]

[[The Netherlands]]

If you are looking for a [[I want a powerful ev conversion|performant ev conversion]] check the sister page.

I want a cheap EV Conversion

2022-12-15T10:12:05Z

Bobby come lately: Added some narrative up front

Cars can be converted to electric at very reasonable cost, as long as you have the skills and realistic ambitions. Pay attention to the warning above.

With that out of the way, here’s how you might go about building a cost-effective EV conversion.

=== Getting Started ===
Unless you already have a car, start by getting hold of a motor and inverter and getting the motor spinning. This will give you a sense of what you are undertaking with the minimum investment, as the car and batteries will likely be your biggest costs. Work out which of the options below might best fit your planned project, and choose an appropriate control method - OI board, ZombieVerter, or one of the other options out there.

You can power this trial set up using a benchtop power supply, a few 12V lead acid batteries, or rectified mains (again, if you know what you are doing). Follow the instructions for spinning the motor using the motor in Open Loop, with the FOC firmware, or with the ZombieVerter as appropriate.

Once you're comfortable that you can build a working drivetrain, move on to choosing a car.

=== Choosing the Car ===

==== Rule 1: Don't buy a rust bucket. ====
This is the quickest route to making a cheap conversion into an expensive one. You would be spending time and resources on fixing additional parts of the car and are not able to focus time and effort on the actual conversion process. Ideally start with a reasonably maintained, working car (some funds recovered from component sale) or one that would be uneconomical to fix (big engine/gearbox overhaul required). Something with a current MOT/TUV certificate, or equivalent, would be a smart choice.

==== Battery location ====
Batteries are most easily mounted in simply-shaped boxes. Consider where you might put these when choosing a car. Will you give up the boot? Is there space under the bonnet with the ICE removed? Really small cars can be challenging.

Think about the size of battery pack you need. A relatively small hybrid pack (<10kWh) can make for a very capable city runabout. But for longer ranges you would need a larger pack or multiple packs.

==== Drivetrain ====
How will you power the car? Is it front or rear wheel drive? Will you bolt the electric motor up to the existing gearbox? (Yes, you can have an EV with a manual box) If so you will need to make up (or have made) an adapter plate and coupler. Or will you link the motor/drive unit direct to the wheels, requiring custom drive shafts.

==== Ancillary Systems ====
Older cars will have largely mechanical or individually wired systems for brakes and instruments etc. These systems will largely not care what power plant is installed and keep working. Later cars will likely use LINBUS or CANBUS. And the most recent cars might use formats like FlexRAY. In order to re-use existing systems you will need to find a way to integrate your new drivetrain with the existing systems. For some vehicles, this work has already been done and may be included in the code for the ZombieVerter. For others there might be standalone solutions, or existing knowledge on the forum/wiki. But with some vehicles, you might have to find your own answers (please share them if you do).[[File:Audi A2 Conversion.png|thumb|[https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=650 Audi A2 with Prius Inverter]]]
[[File:VW Bug EV.png|thumb|[https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1130 VW Beetle 2003 EV conversion]]]

=== Components ===
You will want Integrated components that fulfill multiple functions in your build at the same time:

- cheap motor & inverter, ideally combined units ([[Toyota Prius Gen2 Inverter]], [[:Category:Nissan|Nissan]] LEAF "stack", [[Mitsubishi Outlander Rear Drive Unit]] & [[Mitsubishi Outlander Rear Inverter|Inverter]])

- cheap batteries, this will be your biggest expense ([[Nissan Leaf BMS]], BMW i3, repurposed PHEV batteries)

- smaller battery packs can be compensated for by enabling [[Rapid Charging|rapid charging]]

- DC/DC converter; this replaces the alternator to keep the 12v systems running in your car. ([[Mitsubishi Outlander DCDC OBC]] )

- charger ( integrated into existing units, such as Nissan Leaf PDM, Mitsubishi Outlander charger & DCDC, Prius Inverter & charger )

=== Legalities ===
If you are on a budget, make sure your locality allows what you are trying to do:

[https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=543 UK] [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2379 UK2] [[United Kingdom]]

[[The Netherlands]]

If you are looking for a [[I want a powerful ev conversion|performant ev conversion]] check the sister page.

Mitsubishi Outlander Front Transaxle

2021-06-09T16:10:02Z

Bobby come lately: Fixed missing pictures on generator connections and reformatted pinout

=== Gearbox ===

{| class="wikitable"
!
!
|-
|Weight
|TBC
|-
|Motor - Differential ratio
|9.663
|-
|Generator - Engine ratio
|2.736
|-
|Engine - Differential ratio
|3.425
|}

{| class="wikitable"
|+
!Item
!N·m
|-
|Drain plug
|35 ± 4
|-
|Filler plug (the underside)
|32 ± 2
|-
|Filler plug (the upper side)
|35 ± 4
|-
|Break off bolt <Vehicles for England>
|7.5 ± 1.5
|-
|Electrical parking actuator mounting bolts
|28 ± 4
|-
|Valve body assembly mounting bolts
|9.0 ± 2.0
|-
|Plug(Valve body)
|7.0 ± 1.0
|-
|Connector mounting bolts
|7.0 ± 1.0
|}

[[File:20200720_151136.jpg|none|thumb]]
[[File:20200720_151141.jpg|none|thumb]]
[[File:20200720_151132.jpg|none|thumb]]
[[File:20200720_151129.jpg|none|thumb]]

=== The 'generator' ===
It looks like this is the motor that is sold by SLEVB as https://www.secondlife-evbatteries.com/70kw-ev-motor-with-14000rpm.html

Interestingly they claim it as 70kw, where as the motor as 60kw, both weigh the same.

{| class="wikitable"
|+
|'''Weight'''
|29.5kg
|-
|'''Type'''
|Permanent Magnet Synchronous
|-
|'''Max RPM'''
|14k (According to SLEVB)
|-
|'''Power'''
|70Kw (According to SLEVB) but I suspect it's the same as the motor based on them weighing the same.
|-
|'''Manufacturer'''
|Meiden
|-
|'''Manufacturer Part'''
|
|-
|'''Suggested Firmware'''
|Use Field Orientated Control (FOC) firmware
|-
|'''Resolver Pole Count'''
|8 (4 Pole Pairs) based on the assumption that it's the same as the motor below.
|-
|'''Resolver Part number'''
|C88691 / TS2239N484E102 (Tamagawa E102 series)
|-
|
|Looks to be a custom VR Type Resolver https://www.tamagawa-seiki.com/products/resolver-synchro/vr-type-resolver-singlsyn.html
|-
|'''Motor Pole Count'''
|8 (4 Pole pairs)
|-
|'''Temperature Sensors'''
|This has 2 temperature sensors on 2 of the phase coils and also an oil temperature sensor.
|}
[[File:6-pin-outlander-phev-motor-connector.png|frameless|505x505px]]

* Pin 11 GTH1 - temperature in the U-phase coil (+ve)
* Pin 12: GTH2 - temperature in the W-phase coil (+ve)
* Pin 13: TH0 - oil temperature thermistor (+ve)
* Pin 14: GTG1 - temperature in the U-phase coil (-ve)
* Pin 15: GTG2 - temperature in the W-phase coil (-ve)
* Pin 16: TG0 - oil temperature thermistor (-ve)

[[File:8-pin-outlander-phev-motor-connector.png|frameless|505x505px]]

* Pin 1: R1 - the first connection for the exciter coil
* Pin 2: S1 - the first connector for output coil 1
* Pin 3: S2 - the first connector for output coil 2 (S2-1)
* Pin 4: R2 - the second connection for the exciter coil
* Pin 5: S3 - the second connection for output coil 1 (S1-2)
* Pin 6: S4 - the second connection for output coil 2 (S2-2)
* Pin 7: GGND - earth connection to the ECU
* Pin 8: Not used.

Note: some after market plugs have the pin numberings reversed from the above. As I currently understand it, the numbering should be as per the diagram with pin 8 at the bottom right with the locking clip on the top when you are looking at the cable end of the plug.

=== The motor ===

It looks like this is the motor that is sold by SLEVB as https://www.secondlife-evbatteries.com/meiden-ev-motor-60kw-14000rpm-electric-project-emrax-replacement.html

{| class="wikitable"
|+
|'''Weight'''
|29.5kg
|-
|'''Type'''
|Permanent Magnet Synchronous
|-
|'''Max RPM'''
|14k (According to SLEVB)
|-
|'''Power'''
|60Kw (According to SLEVB)
|-
|'''Manufacturer'''
|Meiden
|-
|'''Manufacturer Part'''
|S61
|-
|'''Suggested Firmware'''
|Use Field Orientated Control (FOC) firmware
|-
|'''Resolver Pole Count'''
|4 Pole Pairs based on the photo below, the shaft having 4 lobes.
|-
|'''Resolver Part number'''
|C88691 / TS2239N484E102 (Tamagawa E102 series)
|-
|
|Looks to be a custom VR Type Resolver https://www.tamagawa-seiki.com/products/resolver-synchro/vr-type-resolver-singlsyn.html
|-
|
|Tamagawa will not release the datasheet for this unit. "Unfortunately, this is an exclusive model for our authorized customer.
We are not able to provide technical data directly to you."
|-
|'''Motor Pole Count'''
|8 (4 Pole pairs)
|-
|'''Temperature Sensor'''
|This only have the 2 phase coil sensors and is lacking the oil temperature sensor.
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
|-
|[[File:20200801 164706.jpg|none|thumb]]
|[[File:20200801 164710.jpg|none|thumb]]

|[[File:20200801 180635.jpg|none|thumb]]
|-
|[[File:20200801 180830.jpg|none|thumb]]
|[[File:20200801 182148.jpg|none|thumb]]
|[[File:20200801 182238.jpg|none|thumb]]
|-
|[[File:20200801 183613.jpg|none|thumb]]
|[[File:20200801 183950.jpg|none|thumb]]
|[[File:20200801 221733.jpg|none|thumb]]
|-
|[[File:20200802 080902.jpg|none|thumb]]
|[[File:20200802 080907.jpg|none|thumb]]
|[[File:20201124 214308.jpg|thumb]]
|}

=== Output Shafts ===
The generator and motor have a 19mm output shaft with 17 splines. This is a very close fit for the Ford Fiesta clutch. Model number 8V21-7550-DE or G44BA. Another part number also fits HD2392 from Fiesta 77-92, Escort III

User @bexander points to <nowiki>https://aftermarket.zf.com/go/en/sachs/catalogs/#/</nowiki> which shows that this fitting is common to a wide range of Ford and Mazda part numbers.

'''FORD'''

1518195, 1529952, 1576249, 1678827, 1708209, 1804545, 1805271, 1826509, 1852056, 2115219, 2245763, 8V21-7540-DA, 8V21-7540-DB, 8V21-7540-DC, 8V21-7540-DD, 8V21-7540-DE, 8V21-7540-DF, 8V21-7540-DG, 8V21-7540-FA, 8V21-7550-DE, 8V21-7563-DD, RM8V21-7540-DF, RM8V21-7540-DG, RM8V21-7540-FA

'''MAZDA'''

Y604-16-490, Y604-16-490A, Y604-16-490B, Y604-16-490C, Y604-16-490D, Y604-16-490E[[File:Fiesta clutch on Mitsubishi outlander front motor..jpg|left|thumb]]

[[File:20201029 130555.jpg|none|thumb]]

File:8-pin-outlander-phev-motor-connector.png

2021-06-09T15:58:25Z

Bobby come lately:

outlander front motor/generator resolver connector

File:6-pin-outlander-phev-motor-connector.png

2021-06-09T15:57:18Z

Bobby come lately:

diagram of outlander motor/generator temperature connector