<?xml version="1.0"?>
<feed xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom" xml:lang="en">
	<id>https://openinverter.org/wiki/api.php?action=feedcontributions&amp;feedformat=atom&amp;user=Bassmobile</id>
	<title>openinverter.org wiki - User contributions [en]</title>
	<link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="https://openinverter.org/wiki/api.php?action=feedcontributions&amp;feedformat=atom&amp;user=Bassmobile"/>
	<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://openinverter.org/wiki/Special:Contributions/Bassmobile"/>
	<updated>2026-04-29T04:50:29Z</updated>
	<subtitle>User contributions</subtitle>
	<generator>MediaWiki 1.43.1</generator>
	<entry>
		<id>https://openinverter.org/wiki/index.php?title=ZombieVerter_VCU&amp;diff=1976</id>
		<title>ZombieVerter VCU</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://openinverter.org/wiki/index.php?title=ZombieVerter_VCU&amp;diff=1976"/>
		<updated>2021-11-23T21:57:26Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Bassmobile: /* Software */ updates changes as suggested by D. Maguire&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;big&amp;gt;Now available for general sale [https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-webshop/vcu-boards here].&amp;lt;/big&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Development continues&#039;&#039;&#039; and you can&lt;br /&gt;
[https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&amp;amp;t=1277 follow and contribute along with the development here on the forum]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&amp;amp;t=1696 &#039;&#039;&#039;Support&#039;&#039;&#039; is available via a separate thread on the forum]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Introduction ==&lt;br /&gt;
Rather than crack open inverters and swap components about to drive them, what if we simply send them the messages they&#039;re expecting? This has been the case with a couple of existing designs (Nissan leaf inverter and GS450H) and thanks to the SAM3X8E microcontroller no longer being stocked by JLCPCB this project looks to take it further.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So rather than driving an inverter powerstage this version sends CAN for the Leaf inverter or Sync serial for the GS450H and of course can be expanded to any number of others. This will be the default firmware for all vcu products from now on and future hardware will support future fun packed stuff like FLEXRAY!!!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It&#039;s basically an &amp;lt;s&amp;gt;rip off&amp;lt;/s&amp;gt; homage and builds on other people&#039;s hard work in the shape of the following projects&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://github.com/jsphuebner/stm32-car STM32-CAR project] &lt;br /&gt;
* [https://github.com/jsphuebner/stm32-sine Openinverter]&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://github.com/Isaac96/SimpleISA ISA library]&lt;br /&gt;
* Leaf inverter driver by Celeron55&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
What we have as of now is the openinverter wrapper with things like :&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Throttle cal and mapping,&lt;br /&gt;
* Precharge and contactor control,&lt;br /&gt;
* Temp derating,&lt;br /&gt;
* BMS limits,&lt;br /&gt;
* for/rev/neutral control,&lt;br /&gt;
* Graphing and monitoring,&lt;br /&gt;
* Firmware updates via the web interface,&lt;br /&gt;
* Cruise control,&lt;br /&gt;
* Fuel gauge driver,&lt;br /&gt;
* etc &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Hardware==&lt;br /&gt;
So you&#039;ve ordered your kit, first things first, watch the following two videos to assemble it. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Due to chip shortages (written summer 2021) the board isn&#039;t fully assembled so you will need to do some soldering, or take it to a local phone repair shop (or similar) who&#039;ll find soldering at this scale like playing with Duplo (Legos to you Yanks).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The current list of parts to be fitted:&amp;lt;syntaxhighlight&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
CONN1&lt;br /&gt;
IC10 = MCP25625T&lt;br /&gt;
IC14 = TJA1020 OR MCP2004 &lt;br /&gt;
IC19 = NCV7356&lt;br /&gt;
IC20 = TJA1055T&lt;br /&gt;
IC21, 22 = AD5160&lt;br /&gt;
IC27, 28, 29 = FAN3122&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/syntaxhighlight&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
And the positions on the V1 board.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Zombv1boardb.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===The enclosure kit links===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You only need one, but below are two options - one with just the connector, and the other prewired with 3M long leads.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::Enclosure Kit with Header, connector and pins :&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32857771975.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.39f24c4dWOmGPE&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::Prewired connector with 3M leads :&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001213569338.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.366c3c00qhBvGO&amp;amp;mp=1&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note that in addition to the VCU, the inverter and transmission, you will require a specific CANBUS connected shunt&#039;&#039;&#039;: [[Isabellenhütte Heusler]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;youtube&amp;gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=geZuIbGHh30&amp;lt;/youtube&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;youtube&amp;gt;https://youtu.be/MUhs9j9R9Mg&amp;lt;/youtube&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Installation ==&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Pin Out Diagram&#039;&#039;&#039;[[File:ZombieVerter VCU V1 cable side pinout.jpg|thumb|alt=|VCU pinout diagram |none]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Zomb-con-et.png|none|thumb|List of connections to system components (GS450 application)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Further information for a GS450 system can be found here: [[Lexus GS450h Inverter]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note&#039;&#039;&#039;: In the software port 0 = EXT2 and port 1 = EXT&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Software==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;GD variant:&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Status as of November 20 2021&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Early boards fitted with the GigaDevices  &#039;&#039;&#039;GD32F107&#039;&#039;&#039; aka &amp;quot;GD chip&amp;quot; require different firmware routines than &#039;&#039;&#039;STM32F107&#039;&#039;&#039; equipped boards.  See this [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=33758#p33758 Zombieverter VCU Support Thread forum post]&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;The GigaDevices `[https://www.gigadevice.com/products/microcontrollers/gd32/arm-cortex-m3/connectivity-line/gd32f107-series/ GD32F107] was chosen as an alternative to the ST equivalent due to microchip shortages during the COVID-19 pandemic.  A specific branch of firmware code for the GD32F107 variant is found here:  https://github.com/damienmaguire/Stm32-vcu/tree/GD_Zombie  However development of this variant was abandoned shortly after it&#039;s release.&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;As of this writing , The [https://github.com/damienmaguire/Stm32-vcu/tree/GD_Zombie GD_Zombie] branch has fallen behind and substantially diverged from the primary code base. It has been suggested that work needs to be done to make the present firmware chip agnostic via detection routines.  See this [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=34220#p34220 Zombieverter Development Thread forum post]. As of this writing that work has yet to be undertaken and remains to be organized and completed.  And issue has be devoted to tracking this progress here: [https://github.com/damienmaguire/Stm32-vcu/issues/21 Issue #21]&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is a link to a post with a pre compiled bin and hex for the GD_Zombie created by Damien on the 23/11/21;  [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=34264#p34264 ZombieVerter VCU Support - Page 9 - openinverter forum] This is based on the 16/6/21 code it is &amp;lt;u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;not&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt; an update. Ensure you rename the binaries to stm32_vcu.xxx to ensure no wifi issues.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;UPDATE November 23 2021&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Updated information about the necessary edits to make to the STM32 based firmware have been posted in a [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=34264#p34264 forum post here.]  In order to get the firmware to compile and run on the &#039;&#039;&#039;GD32F107&#039;&#039;&#039;  you must make the following changes:&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;In the file &amp;quot;&#039;&#039;&#039;anain.cpp&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;quot; @ line 68:&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;code&amp;gt;68 - // adc_start_conversion_regular(ADC1);  // Comment out for GD MCU&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt;In the file&#039;&#039; &#039;&#039;&amp;quot;&#039;&#039;&#039;stm32_can.cpp&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;quot; @ starting at line 305 modify as follows :&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;code&amp;gt;305 - gpio_set_mode(GPIO_BANK_CAN2_RE_RX, GPIO_MODE_INPUT, GPIO_CNF_INPUT_PULL_UPDOWN, GPIO_CAN2_RE_RX);&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;code&amp;gt;306 - gpio_set(GPIO_BANK_CAN2_RE_RX, GPIO_CAN2_RE_RX);&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt;&amp;lt;code&amp;gt;307 - // Configure CAN pin: TX.-&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt;&amp;lt;code&amp;gt;308 - gpio_set_mode(GPIO_BANK_CAN2_RE_TX, GPIO_MODE_OUTPUT_50_MHZ, GPIO_CNF_OUTPUT_ALTFN_PUSHPULL, GPIO_CAN2_RE_TX);&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you properly clone the repository with &#039;&#039;&#039;git&#039;&#039;&#039; on the command line that looks like this;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;code&amp;gt;git clone --recurse-submodules git@github.com:damienmaguire/Stm32-vcu.git&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
That recursively pulls in copies of &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;libopeninv&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;, etc and tracks them...   Hence your file-path should look like &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;code&amp;gt;./Stm32-vcu/libopeninv/src/&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
within the &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;libopeninv&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; src (source) directory you will find &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;anain.cpp&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;stm32_can.cpp&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make the above changes to these files for the &#039;&#039;&#039;GigaDevices GD32F107&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;ST Variant:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
https://github.com/damienmaguire/Stm32-vcu/tree/LIM_ST107&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The VCU is configured by connecting to its wifi access point.  For existing units this is something like SSID: ESP-03xxxx, no password.  For future units (shipped after 20/10/21) this will be SSID: inverter PASSWORD: inverter123 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Then navigate to 192.168.4.1 to see the huebner inverter dashboard.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Initial start-up and testing (Instructions for GS450H application) ===&lt;br /&gt;
Get familiar with the interface and check that all of the parameters make sense. If in doubt, make sure the default value is set.  At each stage the current state of the system and any error can be seen on the interface, for example &#039;&#039;&#039;opmode&#039;&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;&#039;lasterr&#039;&#039;&#039;. Press refresh at the top of the screen to update the values.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You will need the HV supply connected, which can be a lower voltage (50-100V), current limited power supply for test purposes.  Set &#039;&#039;&#039;udcmin&#039;&#039;&#039; to some value below that (e.g. 50V for a 100V supply) and &#039;&#039;&#039;udcsw&#039;&#039;&#039; to 10V lower than the supply.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Apply the &#039;&#039;&#039;Ignition T15 in&#039;&#039;&#039; 12V signal.  The relay supplying 12V to the inverter should now be on. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Check the accelerator by applying it gradually and watching / refreshing the interface. You should see values at &#039;&#039;&#039;pot&#039;&#039;&#039; change as the pedal is pressed.  &#039;&#039;&#039;potmin&#039;&#039;&#039; should be set just above where your off-throttle position is, and &#039;&#039;&#039;potmax&#039;&#039;&#039; just below the value seen at maximum travel. Same for &#039;&#039;&#039;pot2min&#039;&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;&#039;pot2max&#039;&#039;&#039;, if they are electrically connected. The resulting value as a 0-100 value can be seen at &#039;&#039;&#039;potnom&#039;&#039;&#039;.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;If it does not show up, check for errors and check that throtmax is not set to zero!&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Apply the &#039;&#039;&#039;Start&#039;&#039;&#039; 12V signal for a short time.  The pre-charge relay should turn on, and the voltage available at the inverter and the U1 input of the ISA shunt should quickly rise. If the &#039;&#039;&#039;udc&#039;&#039;&#039; reading goes above &#039;&#039;&#039;udcsw&#039;&#039;&#039; within 5 seconds then the main contactor(s) should close. If all is well, &#039;&#039;&#039;invstat&#039;&#039;&#039; should now be &amp;quot;on&amp;quot;, &#039;&#039;&#039;opmode&#039;&#039;&#039; should be &amp;quot;run&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;If you do not see a good value at udc, it may be that your external shunt is not connected properly or is not initialised.&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;If you do not see a good value at Invudc, it may be that the inverter is not powered, or the communication signals are not correctly wired.&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Once the contactors are on, select forwards direction.  For example if &#039;&#039;&#039;dirmode&#039;&#039;&#039; is set to &amp;quot;Switch&amp;quot; then a 12V signal applied to the Forward input will work. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Carefully apply the accelerator and the motor should begin to turn. Do not spin the motor up to any speed if you are using a test power supply.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Software update ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As supplied, both the ESP32 (the wifi plug-in board) and the STM32 (main MPU) are pre-loaded.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;UART Update&amp;quot; field on the GUI can be given a &#039;&#039;&#039;stm32_vcu.bin&#039;&#039;&#039; file to update the firmware.   Note that at this time, loading via Windows 10 is suspect and may lock you out of the board. Ubuntu works best.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are unable to build your own, use the [https://openinverter.org/forum/download/file.php?id=11673 stm32_vcu.bin] that Damien posted on 10/30/2021 in the [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=33379#p33379 ZombieVerter VCU Support thread].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
By using the ST-Link V2 in-circuit loader, &#039;&#039;&#039;.hex&#039;&#039;&#039; files can be sent to the board to initialize a fresh STM32 MCU, or if it can&#039;t be loaded via the bootloader.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are unable to build your own, use the [https://openinverter.org/forum/download/file.php?id=11674 stm32_vcu.hex] that Damien posted on 10/30/2021 in the [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=33379#p33379 ZombieVerter VCU Support thread].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The connections needed to use the ST-Link loader are shown below:&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:0B35D4F9-BA64-46E7-A570-A0CE1D619D63.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Initializing an ISA Shunt ===&lt;br /&gt;
Under Comms in the web interface, there is now an ISAMode option. By default its in &amp;quot;Normal&amp;quot;. If you want to initialize a new shunt, connect it up, power on the shunt and vcu, select &amp;quot;Init&amp;quot;, hit save parameters to flash. Power cycle the vcu and shunt at same time (they should be on same 12v feed anyway). The shunt will initialize. Select ISAMode &amp;quot;normal&amp;quot;, save to flash again and reboot again. The shunt should now be up and running.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Supported OEM Hardware==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Nissan Leaf Gen1/2/3 Inverter/ motor&lt;br /&gt;
*nissan leaf gen 2 drive stack (inverter, dcdc, charger) gen 3 coming soon&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Lexus GS450h Inverter|Lexus GS450H inverter / gearbox via sync serial]]&lt;br /&gt;
* Toyota Prius/Yaris/Auris Gen 3 inverters via sync serial&lt;br /&gt;
* chevy volt HV water heater&lt;br /&gt;
*BMW E46 CAN support&lt;br /&gt;
*BMW E39 CAN support&lt;br /&gt;
*BMW E65 CAN Support&lt;br /&gt;
*CCS DC Fast Charge via BMW i3 LIM&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Bassmobile</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://openinverter.org/wiki/index.php?title=ZombieVerter_VCU&amp;diff=1966</id>
		<title>ZombieVerter VCU</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://openinverter.org/wiki/index.php?title=ZombieVerter_VCU&amp;diff=1966"/>
		<updated>2021-11-22T16:16:10Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Bassmobile: /* Software */  adding info on the GigaDevices GD32F107&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;big&amp;gt;Now available for general sale [https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-webshop/vcu-boards here].&amp;lt;/big&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Development continues&#039;&#039;&#039; and you can&lt;br /&gt;
[https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&amp;amp;t=1277 follow and contribute along with the development here on the forum]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&amp;amp;t=1696 &#039;&#039;&#039;Support&#039;&#039;&#039; is available via a separate thread on the forum]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Introduction ==&lt;br /&gt;
Rather than crack open inverters and swap components about to drive them, what if we simply send them the messages they&#039;re expecting? This has been the case with a couple of existing designs (Nissan leaf inverter and GS450H) and thanks to the SAM3X8E microcontroller no longer being stocked by JLCPCB this project looks to take it further.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So rather than driving an inverter powerstage this version sends CAN for the Leaf inverter or Sync serial for the GS450H and of course can be expanded to any number of others. This will be the default firmware for all vcu products from now on and future hardware will support future fun packed stuff like FLEXRAY!!!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It&#039;s basically an &amp;lt;s&amp;gt;rip off&amp;lt;/s&amp;gt; homage and builds on other people&#039;s hard work in the shape of the following projects&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://github.com/jsphuebner/stm32-car STM32-CAR project] &lt;br /&gt;
* [https://github.com/jsphuebner/stm32-sine Openinverter]&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://github.com/Isaac96/SimpleISA ISA library]&lt;br /&gt;
* Leaf inverter driver by Celeron55&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
What we have as of now is the openinverter wrapper with things like :&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Throttle cal and mapping,&lt;br /&gt;
* Precharge and contactor control,&lt;br /&gt;
* Temp derating,&lt;br /&gt;
* BMS limits,&lt;br /&gt;
* for/rev/neutral control,&lt;br /&gt;
* Graphing and monitoring,&lt;br /&gt;
* Firmware updates via the web interface,&lt;br /&gt;
* Cruise control,&lt;br /&gt;
* Fuel gauge driver,&lt;br /&gt;
* etc &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Hardware==&lt;br /&gt;
So you&#039;ve ordered your kit, first things first, watch the following two videos to assemble it. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Due to chip shortages (written summer 2021) the board isn&#039;t fully assembled so you will need to do some soldering, or take it to a local phone repair shop (or similar) who&#039;ll find soldering at this scale like playing with Duplo (Legos to you Yanks).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The current list of parts to be fitted:&amp;lt;syntaxhighlight&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
CONN1&lt;br /&gt;
IC10 = MCP25625T&lt;br /&gt;
IC14 = TJA1020 OR MCP2004 &lt;br /&gt;
IC19 = NCV7356&lt;br /&gt;
IC20 = TJA1055T&lt;br /&gt;
IC21, 22 = AD5160&lt;br /&gt;
IC27, 28, 29 = FAN3122&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/syntaxhighlight&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
And the positions on the V1 board.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Zombv1boardb.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===The enclosure kit links===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You only need one, but below are two options - one with just the connector, and the other prewired with 3M long leads.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::Enclosure Kit with Header, connector and pins :&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32857771975.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.39f24c4dWOmGPE&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::Prewired connector with 3M leads :&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
::::https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001213569338.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.366c3c00qhBvGO&amp;amp;mp=1&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note that in addition to the VCU, the inverter and transmission, you will require a specific CANBUS connected shunt&#039;&#039;&#039;: [[Isabellenhütte Heusler]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;youtube&amp;gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=geZuIbGHh30&amp;lt;/youtube&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;youtube&amp;gt;https://youtu.be/MUhs9j9R9Mg&amp;lt;/youtube&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Installation ==&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Pin Out Diagram&#039;&#039;&#039;[[File:ZombieVerter VCU V1 cable side pinout.jpg|thumb|alt=|VCU pinout diagram |none]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Zomb-con-et.png|none|thumb|List of connections to system components (GS450 application)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Further information for a GS450 system can be found here: [[Lexus GS450h Inverter]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note&#039;&#039;&#039;: In the software port 0 = EXT2 and port 1 = EXT&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Software==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;GD variant:&#039;&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Status as of November 2021&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Early boards fitted with the GigaDevices  &#039;&#039;&#039;GD32F107&#039;&#039;&#039; aka &amp;quot;GD chip&amp;quot; require different firmware routines than &#039;&#039;&#039;STM32F107&#039;&#039;&#039; equipped boards.  See this [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=33758#p33758 Zombieverter VCU Support Thread forum post]&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;The GigaDevices `[https://www.gigadevice.com/products/microcontrollers/gd32/arm-cortex-m3/connectivity-line/gd32f107-series/ GD32F107] was chosen as an alternative to the ST equivalent due to microchip shortages during the COVID-19 pandemic.  A specific branch of firmware code for the GD32F107 variant is found here:  https://github.com/damienmaguire/Stm32-vcu/tree/GD_Zombie  However development of this variant was abandoned shortly after it&#039;s release.&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;As of this writing , The [https://github.com/damienmaguire/Stm32-vcu/tree/GD_Zombie GD_Zombie] branch has fallen behind and substantially diverged from the primary code base. It has been suggested that work needs to be done to make the present firmware chip agnostic via detection routines.  See this [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=34220#p34220 Zombieverter Development Thread forum post]. As of this writing that work has yet to be undertaken and remains to be organized and completed.  And issue has be devoted to tracking this progress here: [https://github.com/damienmaguire/Stm32-vcu/issues/21 Issue #21]&#039;&#039; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;ST Variant:&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
https://github.com/damienmaguire/Stm32-vcu/tree/LIM_ST107&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The VCU is configured by connecting to its wifi access point.  For existing units this is something like SSID: ESP-03xxxx, no password.  For future units (shipped after 20/10/21) this will be SSID: inverter PASSWORD: inverter123 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Then navigate to 192.168.4.1 to see the huebner inverter dashboard.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Initial start-up and testing (Instructions for GS450H application) ===&lt;br /&gt;
Get familiar with the interface and check that all of the parameters make sense. If in doubt, make sure the default value is set.  At each stage the current state of the system and any error can be seen on the interface, for example &#039;&#039;&#039;opmode&#039;&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;&#039;lasterr&#039;&#039;&#039;. Press refresh at the top of the screen to update the values.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You will need the HV supply connected, which can be a lower voltage (50-100V), current limited power supply for test purposes.  Set &#039;&#039;&#039;udcmin&#039;&#039;&#039; to some value below that (e.g. 50V for a 100V supply) and &#039;&#039;&#039;udcsw&#039;&#039;&#039; to 10V lower than the supply.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Apply the &#039;&#039;&#039;Ignition T15 in&#039;&#039;&#039; 12V signal.  The relay supplying 12V to the inverter should now be on. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Check the accelerator by applying it gradually and watching / refreshing the interface. You should see values at &#039;&#039;&#039;pot&#039;&#039;&#039; change as the pedal is pressed.  &#039;&#039;&#039;potmin&#039;&#039;&#039; should be set just above where your off-throttle position is, and &#039;&#039;&#039;potmax&#039;&#039;&#039; just below the value seen at maximum travel. Same for &#039;&#039;&#039;pot2min&#039;&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;&#039;pot2max&#039;&#039;&#039;, if they are electrically connected. The resulting value as a 0-100 value can be seen at &#039;&#039;&#039;potnom&#039;&#039;&#039;.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;If it does not show up, check for errors and check that throtmax is not set to zero!&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Apply the &#039;&#039;&#039;Start&#039;&#039;&#039; 12V signal for a short time.  The pre-charge relay should turn on, and the voltage available at the inverter and the U1 input of the ISA shunt should quickly rise. If the &#039;&#039;&#039;udc&#039;&#039;&#039; reading goes above &#039;&#039;&#039;udcsw&#039;&#039;&#039; within 5 seconds then the main contactor(s) should close. If all is well, &#039;&#039;&#039;invstat&#039;&#039;&#039; should now be &amp;quot;on&amp;quot;, &#039;&#039;&#039;opmode&#039;&#039;&#039; should be &amp;quot;run&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;If you do not see a good value at udc, it may be that your external shunt is not connected properly or is not initialised.&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;If you do not see a good value at Invudc, it may be that the inverter is not powered, or the communication signals are not correctly wired.&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Once the contactors are on, select forwards direction.  For example if &#039;&#039;&#039;dirmode&#039;&#039;&#039; is set to &amp;quot;Switch&amp;quot; then a 12V signal applied to the Forward input will work. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Carefully apply the accelerator and the motor should begin to turn. Do not spin the motor up to any speed if you are using a test power supply.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Software update ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As supplied, both the ESP32 (the wifi plug-in board) and the STM32 (main MPU) are pre-loaded.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;UART Update&amp;quot; field on the GUI can be given a &#039;&#039;&#039;stm32_vcu.bin&#039;&#039;&#039; file to update the firmware.   Note that at this time, loading via Windows 10 is suspect and may lock you out of the board. Ubuntu works best.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are unable to build your own, use the [https://openinverter.org/forum/download/file.php?id=11673 stm32_vcu.bin] that Damien posted on 10/30/2021 in the [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=33379#p33379 ZombieVerter VCU Support thread].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
By using the ST-Link V2 in-circuit loader, &#039;&#039;&#039;.hex&#039;&#039;&#039; files can be sent to the board to initialize a fresh STM32 MCU, or if it can&#039;t be loaded via the bootloader.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are unable to build your own, use the [https://openinverter.org/forum/download/file.php?id=11674 stm32_vcu.hex] that Damien posted on 10/30/2021 in the [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=33379#p33379 ZombieVerter VCU Support thread].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The connections needed to use the ST-Link loader are shown below:&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:0B35D4F9-BA64-46E7-A570-A0CE1D619D63.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Initializing an ISA Shunt ===&lt;br /&gt;
Under Comms in the web interface, there is now an ISAMode option. By default its in &amp;quot;Normal&amp;quot;. If you want to initialize a new shunt, connect it up, power on the shunt and vcu, select &amp;quot;Init&amp;quot;, hit save parameters to flash. Power cycle the vcu and shunt at same time (they should be on same 12v feed anyway). The shunt will initialize. Select ISAMode &amp;quot;normal&amp;quot;, save to flash again and reboot again. The shunt should now be up and running.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Supported OEM Hardware==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Nissan Leaf Gen1/2/3 Inverter/ motor&lt;br /&gt;
*nissan leaf gen 2 drive stack (inverter, dcdc, charger) gen 3 coming soon&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Lexus GS450h Inverter|Lexus GS450H inverter / gearbox via sync serial]]&lt;br /&gt;
* Toyota Prius/Yaris/Auris Gen 3 inverters via sync serial&lt;br /&gt;
* chevy volt HV water heater&lt;br /&gt;
*BMW E46 CAN support&lt;br /&gt;
*BMW E39 CAN support&lt;br /&gt;
*BMW E65 CAN Support&lt;br /&gt;
*CCS DC Fast Charge via BMW i3 LIM&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Bassmobile</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://openinverter.org/wiki/index.php?title=Lexus_GS450h_Drivetrain&amp;diff=1546</id>
		<title>Lexus GS450h Drivetrain</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://openinverter.org/wiki/index.php?title=Lexus_GS450h_Drivetrain&amp;diff=1546"/>
		<updated>2021-05-17T20:43:50Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Bassmobile: Removing misleading information about the use of Camry inverters.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;[[File:Inverter connector.png|thumb|GS450h inverter external connector|187x187px]]&lt;br /&gt;
The Lexus GS450h VCU is an open source project to repurpose 2006-2012 Lexus GS450h inverters for DIY EV use. It consists of a circuit board and programming that communicates with the original logic board in the inverter and allows independent control of it without communicating with a GS450h ECU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; Toyota Camry hybrid (NAFTA market) use a variety of similar inverter models with similar logic boards.  Independent tests are ongoing to verify which (if any) will offer functionally with the GS450h platform.  At present data has not been sufficiently collected to verify which specific Camry inverters do or do not work for this application. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== GS450h Inverter ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Lexus GS450h is a hybrid vehicle. Their inverters are suitable and attractive for DIY EVs because of:&lt;br /&gt;
* Good availability and price - an inverter and &amp;quot;transmission&amp;quot; can generally be purchased for less than £/€1000.&lt;br /&gt;
* Durability. Toyota engineers appear to have made the inverters foolproof, many inputs and outputs gracefully handle fault conditions.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Respectable performance. Rated for a combined 250kW output.&lt;br /&gt;
* Ease of repurposing. Emulating the original ECU seems reasonably feasible. The transmission is a similar size and layout to many RWD transmissions.&lt;br /&gt;
The Lexus GS450h (2006-2012 model years) has a variety of useful components inside the inverter package:&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Toyota Camry Inverter external connector.png|thumb|204x204px|Toyota Camry Inverter external connector]]&lt;br /&gt;
* Two high power inverters, for the 2 motors MG1 capable of handling X(?) amps, and MG2 capable of handling Y(?) amps.&lt;br /&gt;
* A boost module to boost the 288v battery pack up to 650v as used in the Lexus (Note that voltages this high are not required for EV conversions).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For technical analysis of this unit, see pages 14-47 of this document: &amp;lt;nowiki&amp;gt;https://www.osti.gov/servlets/purl/928684&amp;lt;/nowiki&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The inverter is capable of running at full speeds on pack voltages from approx 280V upwards. The maximum allowable input voltage is 650V, so far, many have found that &amp;quot;standard&amp;quot; EV voltages of 300V-360V to be well suited.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;Note that even thouigh the inverter maximum voltage rating is 650V, a 650V battery pack is not required to run this unit. It is capable of excellent performance at lower voltages, such as the typical 300V-360V found in most EVs. However, there is the opportunity to use larger packs with this unit if required in your application.&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Should a higher voltage pack be chosen in your application for any reason, the buck/boost converter can be used to power auxiliary equipment at its native voltage.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Weight: 40 LBs&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Dimensions: 14&amp;quot; x 9-1/2&amp;quot; x 8-1/2&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
== GS450h Converter ==&lt;br /&gt;
A buck/boost converter lives within the inverter housing, originally this is used to step up the 288V battery pack in the GS450h to the 650V for use in the inverter in the GS. (Note that this does not mean the inverter requires 650V to run, it is simply a maximum rating) For those using a 600+V battery pack, this converter can be used to step the voltage down to a more reasonable level to interface with charfgers, DCDC converters, heaters, AC compressors, and other components which can be found in &amp;quot;regular&amp;quot; EV&#039;s (Tesla, Leaf, Volt, etc).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This unit is rated at 30kW, making it unsuitable for traction power, but good for auxiliary devices.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Details on how to control the converter are here: https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=538&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For technical analysis of this unit, see pages 14-47 of this document: &amp;lt;nowiki&amp;gt;https://www.osti.gov/servlets/purl/928684&amp;lt;/nowiki&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== GS450h Transmission ==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Inverter.png|thumb|213x213px|GS450h inverter]]&lt;br /&gt;
For technical analysis of this transmission, see pages 46 onwards of this document: https://www.osti.gov/servlets/purl/947393&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The transmission contains two &amp;quot;Motor-Generator&amp;quot; units. MG1 sits at the front of the transmission, and interfaces with the internal combustion engine through a planetary gear set. For this reason, to obtain torque from MG1, the input shaft of the transmission must be locked in place. This is usually done using a splined coupler, which is then welded onto the transmission front mount.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The input shaft on the transmission has 21 splines, with a 28mm major diameter. It is believed that there are several Toyota clutches which will have this in their centre. The original GS450h flywheel and coupler also contains the appropriate slined centre, of course.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The fluid fill port is the banjo bolt for the upper transmission cooler hose. The specified fluid is &amp;quot;Toyota WS&amp;quot; ATF.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is a good idea to replace the two bearings in the electric oil pump before fitting a used transmission. There is a guide [http://carlthomas66.blogspot.com/2016/03/lexus-gs450h-transmission-oil-pump.html here]. Bearing part numbers are 61900-2Z and 608-2Z, you will need one of each.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The shift position lever on the right-hand side of the transmission engages the parking pawl when in the &amp;quot;all-the-way-back&amp;quot; position. All other positions disengage this pawl. The R, N, D, M positions only affect the output of the shift position sensor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note the following when purchasing the transmission:&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Shift position.png|thumb|154x154px|GS450h shift position sensor]]&lt;br /&gt;
* It is recommended to purchase one which has the electric oil pump fitted - these are a costly item as the bearings in them often fail, in some cases they cost more than the transmission.&lt;br /&gt;
* It is recommended to purchase a transmission which includes the wiring harness, or at least off-cuts of the connectors. Some connectors may be unavailable for purchase. There is a thread [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=271 here] which covers the connectors on this transmission.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Dimensions ===&lt;br /&gt;
Overall height (oil pan to top of bellhousing) is 39cm. Bell housing is full height, i.e. 39cm diameter, when the transmission is sitting on its oil pan (as it is on my bench), the bellhousing still just about touches the bench.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Widest point is 40cm, includes a bump for a starter motor which I don&#039;t believe the GS450h even has. Likely leftover to mate with the 2GR engine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Overall length including tailshaft, output flange, and pilot shaft, is 82cm.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Transmission is tapered quite heavily, the width and height is closer to 25cm after the bellhousing, but hard to gauge due to various outcropping parts (motor cables, oil pump, PRNDL selector, etc)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Weight is 128kg. Unknown if this is dry or filled. Likely partially filled. Unknown if this includes oil pump and cables.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The input shaft pokes out 29mm from the general highest point of the back of the bell housing? (e.g. set a 20cm ruler there and measure from it)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The taper at the tip of the shaft before the splines appear fully is 6mm long. (i.e. the length of the tip portion without proper splines)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== The Oil Pump ===&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Oilpump.png|300x300px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Connector - A55 Oil Pump Motor Controller 90980–12483.png|269x269px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Oil Pump.png|386x386px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Oil Pump2.png|400x400px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The metal case is the ground.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Black (pin 6) is PWM in from your controller.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Brown (pin 7) is feedback from the oil pump. It&#039;s PWM. Do what you want with this or leave it disconnected.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The fat blue wire (pin 5) is 12V power. The oil pump uses around 50A Max. So plan for that. Add your own relay to stop it draining your battery while the car is off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The PWM for this is weird, it&#039;s not just 0-100. IIRC it is 0% at both ends, and rises to 100% near the middle, then back down again. This is just based on the sound of the pump with no load, so needs more testing to find the real values.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is a list of compatible Toyota part numbers for the oil pump controller: G1167-30020&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===Oil Pump Hardware===&lt;br /&gt;
As per ggeter:&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;For those, like me, who didn&#039;t get the pump with the transmission unit, here are the part numbers for bolts and (what appears to be a metal) gasket.&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Bolts (4) 90080-10197 $2.76 ea&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Gasket (1) 35142-30010 $14&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The oil pump also contains 3 black rubber o-rings:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1 x 55mm internal diameter, 2.5mm cross section (for the black outer cover)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2 x 50mm internal diameter, 2.5mm cross section (between each &#039;layer&#039; of the pump housing).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The oil pump motor cover is held onto the pump housing by 4 M5 x 16mm flanged screws.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Wiring Harness Connectors ==&lt;br /&gt;
Here are a list of connectors required for the GS450h transmission &amp;amp; inverter if you need/wish to build the harness for your build. (It is a good idea to find components with at least the connectors to build on. As some of the connectors are impossible to obtain)&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|+Inverter Connectors&lt;br /&gt;
!Connector&lt;br /&gt;
!Part No.&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Inverter interface connector (A62) &lt;br /&gt;
|90980–12630&lt;br /&gt;
|Black connector on the side of the inverter. This connector is not sold anywhere to our knowledge.&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
A good alternative to this, otherwise difficult to obtain, connector is to replace the receptacle/header with the following parts from Molex:&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|+&lt;br /&gt;
!Image&lt;br /&gt;
!Part No.&lt;br /&gt;
!Item&lt;br /&gt;
!Quantity&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[File:036638-0002.jpg|center|frameless|80x80px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|036638-0002&lt;br /&gt;
|CMC header connector 48pin&lt;br /&gt;
|1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[File:064320-1311.jpg|center|frameless|80x80px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|064320-1311&lt;br /&gt;
|CMC receptacle 48pin&lt;br /&gt;
|1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[File:064320-1301.jpg|center|frameless|80x80px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|064320-1301&lt;br /&gt;
|CMC wire cap&lt;br /&gt;
|1&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[File:064323-1039.jpg|center|frameless|80x80px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|064323-1039&lt;br /&gt;
|CP terminal&lt;br /&gt;
|4&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[File:064323-1029.jpg|center|frameless|80x80px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|064323-1029&lt;br /&gt;
|CP terminal&lt;br /&gt;
|32&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[File:064325-1010.jpg|center|frameless|80x80px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|064325-1010&lt;br /&gt;
|CMC plug&lt;br /&gt;
|8&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[File:064325-1023.jpg|center|frameless|80x80px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|064325-1023&lt;br /&gt;
|CMC plug&lt;br /&gt;
|4&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|+Transmission Connectors&lt;br /&gt;
!Connector&lt;br /&gt;
!Part No.&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|ECT Solenoid (E83) &lt;br /&gt;
|Sumitomo 6189-1092 &lt;br /&gt;
|Located on the left hand side of the transmission above the oil pan.&lt;br /&gt;
|[[File:Sumitomo 6189-1092.jpg|center|frameless|100x100px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Shift Lever Position Sensor (E80)&lt;br /&gt;
|Sumitomo 90980-12362 &lt;br /&gt;
|Located on the right side of the transmission next to the shift lever inhibitor switch.&lt;br /&gt;
|[[File:Sumitomo 90980-12362.png|center|frameless|100x100px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|MG1 &amp;amp; MG2 Resolver(s) (E81 &amp;amp; E82) &lt;br /&gt;
|Sumitomo 6189-1240 &lt;br /&gt;
|Two connectors located on the left side of the transmission by the bell housing.&lt;br /&gt;
|[[File:Sumitomo 6189-1240.jpg|center|frameless|100x100px]]&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|+Oil Pump &amp;amp; Oil Pump Motor Controller&lt;br /&gt;
!Connector&lt;br /&gt;
!Part No.&lt;br /&gt;
!Location&lt;br /&gt;
!&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Oil Pump Temperature Sensor&lt;br /&gt;
|Sumitomo 6189-0175&lt;br /&gt;
|The connector is the small 2-pin connector in the middle of the harness between the oil pump and controller&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|HVECU -&amp;gt; Oil Pump Controller (A52)&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|Single large (7-way) connector on the side of the oil pump controller&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Control Board==&lt;br /&gt;
An open-source VCU, designed by Damien Maguire, can be purchased as both partially populated and fully populated and tested boards on his website:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-webshop/toyota-partially-built-boards-copy/lexus-gs450h-vcm-partial Lexus GS450H VCM Partially Built]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Transmission.png|thumb|147x147px|GS450h transmission and oil pump temperature sensor]]&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-webshop/toyota-built-and-tested-boards/gs450h-vcm-fully-built-and-tested Lexus GS450H VCM Fully Built and Tested]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The VCU is an external unit that will not fit within the GS450h inverter housing. It does not replace the GS450h inverter control board, instead it interfaces with it over USART.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For those who have purchased the fully built board, the mating connectors for the VCU are Molex parts:&lt;br /&gt;
* 33472-2002 (Left side, grey in colour)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 33472-2001 (Right side, black in colour)&lt;br /&gt;
* 33012-2002 (Crimp terminals)&lt;br /&gt;
* 5810130065 (Enclosure)&lt;br /&gt;
For partially populated board, these additional parts are required:&lt;br /&gt;
* 5810140011 (Header, 40 Pos)&lt;br /&gt;
* 75867-101LF (CONN1, Header for WiFi module)&lt;br /&gt;
* 5787834-1 (CONN2, USB 2.0 receptacle)&lt;br /&gt;
* TR10S05 (IC10, 5V DC/DC converter)&lt;br /&gt;
These parts are available from many electronics distributors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== VCU Firmware ==&lt;br /&gt;
Firmware to run on the VCU is available on Github : https://github.com/damienmaguire/Lexus-GS450H-Inverter-Controller&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This guide relates to V3.01 available here on Github : https://github.com/damienmaguire/Lexus-GS450H-Inverter-Controller/blob/master/Software/gs450h_v3_user.ino&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A video tutorial to accompany this guide and firmware is available here :https://vimeo.com/501777258 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In order to aid those not familiar with programming, a new firmware with a basic serial interface is now available. This will be the default loaded onto all VCU boards sold on the EVBMW webshop as of 18/01/21.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This firmware is intended as a stop gap measure before a new Openinverter based version with a web based interface becomes available. (expect mid 2021).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Instruction for use :&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Connect a USB cable between the VCU and a PC.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Using a serial terminal program of your choice, connect at 115200,8,N,1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once connected, type ? and press enter. The following menu should then display :&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;nowiki&amp;gt;=========== EVBMW GS450H VCU Version 3.01 ==============&amp;lt;/nowiki&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;nowiki&amp;gt;************&amp;lt;/nowiki&amp;gt; List of Available Commands ************&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
  ?  - Print this menu&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
  d - Print received data from inverter&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
  D - Print configuration data&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
  f  - Calibrate minimum throttle.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
  g  - Calibrate maximum throttle.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
  i  - Set max drive torque (0-3500) e.g. typing i200 followed by enter sets max drive torque to 200&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
  q  - Set max reverse torque (0-3500) e.g. typing q200 followed by enter sets max reverse torque to 200&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
  v  - Set gearbox oil pump speed (0-100%) e.g. typing v50 followed by enter sets oil pump to 50% speed&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
  a  - Select LOW gear.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
  s  - Select HIGH gear.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
  z  - Save configuration data to EEPROM memory&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;nowiki&amp;gt;**************************************************************&amp;lt;/nowiki&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The menu system allows for the display of data from both the VCU, GS450H Inverter and gearbox as well as setting of parameters such as throttle calibration and maximum torque.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To select a menu option type its associated character followed by enter.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
? Will display the menu.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
d Displays data from the inverter in this format :&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
   0    1    2    3    4    5    6    7    8    9 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
  ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
00 |                                            0    0    &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
10 |    0    0              0    0    0    0    0    0    &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
20 |    0    0    0    0    0    0    0    0    0    0    &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
30 |    0              0    0    0    0              0    &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
40 |    0    0              0    0    0    0    0    0    &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
50 |    0    0    0    0    0                             &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
60 |                                                      &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
70 |                                                      &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
80 |    0    0              0    0              0    0    &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
90 |    0    0    0    0    0    0    0    0              &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
MTH Valid: Yes    Checksum: 0&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
DC Bus: ----v&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
MG1 - Speed: 0rpm    Position: 0&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
MG2 - Speed: 0rpm    Position: 0&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Water Temp:    0.00c&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Inductor Temp:    0.00c&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another Temp:    0c&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another Temp:    0c&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
D (capital or large D) displays VCU configuration data as well as information on the Gearbox status in this format :&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;nowiki&amp;gt;***************************************************************************************************&amp;lt;/nowiki&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Throttle Channel 1: 109 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Throttle Channel 2: 53 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Commanded Torque: 0 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Selected Direction: DRIVE &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Selected Gear: HIGH &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Configured Max Drive Torque: 600 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Configured Max Reverse Torque: 300 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Configured gearbox oil pump speed: 40 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Current valve positions:  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
PB1:ON &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
PB2:ON &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
PB3:ON &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
MG1 Stator temp: 109.69 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
MG2 Stator temp: 109.69 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;nowiki&amp;gt;***************************************************************************************************&amp;lt;/nowiki&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Throttle calibration procedure :&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Set your throttle, be it a pedal or potentiometer or other, to the position of desired zero throttle.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Type f and press enter. A response like this will display:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Configured min throttle value: 109 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now press or advance the throttle to the desired position of maximum throttle.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Type g and press enter. A response like this will display:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Configured max throttle value: 633 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The throttle calibration is now complete.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next we want to set the maximum allowed drive and reverse torque values. The GS450H inverter will accept a value of between 0 and 3500 for torque.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
for initial bench and vehicle testing it is advisable to limit these to low values. In this example we will set drive torque to 500 and reverse torque to 300.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, drive torque:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Type i500 followed by enter. A response like this will display:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Configured drive torque: 500 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now reverse torque:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Type q250 followed by enter. A response like this will display:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Configured reverse torque: 250 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Torque calibration is now complete.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At this point it is advised to store the now configured values to EEPROM (non volatile memory) by typing z followed by enter. A response like this will display:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Parameters stored to EEPROM&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An option is provided to set the speed in % (0 to 100%) for the electric gearbox oilpump. In this example we set the speed to 50% :&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Type v50 followed by enter. A response like this will display:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Configured gearbox oil pump speed: 50&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I have found in testing on the E65 that 50% is a good value for keeping oil pressure up , providing cooling etc without running the pump too hard. Your millage may vary.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
An option is provided to shift between LOW and HIGH gear in the GS450H gearbox. Shifts are inhibited at MG1 or MG2 speeds above 100rpm for safety at this time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To select LOW gear type a and press enter. A response like this will display:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
LOW Gear Selected &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To select HIGH gear type s and press enter. A response like this will display:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
HIGH Gear Selected&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It is advised to leave HIGH gear selected always at this time until further testing and development has been completed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Finally, store all parameters to EEPROM once more by typing z and press enter. A response like this will display:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Parameters stored to EEPROM&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Selecting Direction.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The firmware supports the use of the IN1 and IN2 pins of the V2 VCU as direction control inputs. Operation is as follows :&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If both inputs are unconnected, NEUTRAL is selected. In neutral , no torque commands are transmitted to the inverter regardless of throttle application. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If IN1is connected to +12v , DRIVE is selected. In drive both MG1 and MG2 provide torque in a forward direction to the gearbox output shaft.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If IN2 is connected to +12v , REVERSE is selected. In reverse only MG2 provides torque in a reverse direction to the gearbox output shaft.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Currently this &amp;quot;simple&amp;quot; firmware does not support contactor control. This may be provided in a later version.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
WiFi Display.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A wifi web browser based display is provided in order to easily visualise data from the inverter and gearbox.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once powered, the wifi module will create an open access point with an ssid like ESP-XXXX where XXXX will be a series of letters and numbers. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Connect to this access point with any wifi enabled device (e.g. laptop, tablet, phone etc).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some modern devices will try to access the internet, not find it, and pop up a warning. Dismiss this and open a web browser.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Type 192.168.4.1 into the address bar and press enter. Again, some modern devices and browsers will complain that it is not a secure connection etc. Just dismiss the warning and proceed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After a few seconds the web gauge display will appear.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that the voltage display is derived from the voltage reported by the inverter and both current (amps) and power (kw) gauges are inoperative as of this release.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You may wish to change the ssid and add a passphrase to the access point. To do this goto : 192.168.4.1/admin&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A simple set of dialog boxes will allow the ssid, passphrase and background colour of the gauge display to be set.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Development History==&lt;br /&gt;
V1 - This board was sold tested but also as a bare logic board requiring purchase of your own components and SMD placement and soldering skills. https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-webshop/toyota-bare-boards/gs450h-bare-pcb&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
V2 - A new board source was found to be both high quality and low cost. The boards were redesigned around the inventory of parts available from this supplier. In particular the high cost of populated and soldered boards (10x the price) from the source used to make the v1 boards is so significantly lower on the v2 that there are likely no savings by building and soldering the board yourself. Software is still in development.&lt;br /&gt;
==Vendors==&lt;br /&gt;
 There are currently no vendors who offer support on any aspects of the GS450h VCU.&lt;br /&gt;
==Support==&lt;br /&gt;
Community support is available on the [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=396 Lexus GS450H VCU Support Thread]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Bassmobile</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://openinverter.org/wiki/index.php?title=Toyota_Prius_Gen3_Board&amp;diff=915</id>
		<title>Toyota Prius Gen3 Board</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://openinverter.org/wiki/index.php?title=Toyota_Prius_Gen3_Board&amp;diff=915"/>
		<updated>2020-07-10T20:14:38Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Bassmobile: program interface verbosity&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Prius Gen3 Inverter Control v2.jpg|thumb|Prius Gen3 Control Board v2]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Toyota Prius Gen3 Board is an open source project to repurpose 2010-2015 Toyota Prius inverters for DIY EV use. It consists of a circuit board and programming that replaces the original logic board in the inverter and allows independent control of it without communicating with a Prius ECU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that there is also a [[Toyota Prius Gen2 Board]] for the 2004-2009 model years.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Prius Inverter ==&lt;br /&gt;
The Toyota Prius is a hybrid vehicle. Their inverters are suitable and attractive for DIY EVs because of:&lt;br /&gt;
* Large part availability. Priuses have been made in large numbers for 20 years.&lt;br /&gt;
* High affordability. Prius inverters are available for around $150 from scrapyards everywhere.&lt;br /&gt;
* Durability. Toyota engineers appear to have made the inverters foolproof, many inputs and outputs gracefully handle fault conditions.&lt;br /&gt;
* Respectable performance. Rated for 50kW output, but tested to handle 600v, and 500+A on MG2. (MG1 unknown, Gen2 had 70% of MG2 on MG1).&lt;br /&gt;
* Ease of repurposing. Emulating the original ECU seems reasonably feasible.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Gen3 Prius (2010-2015 model years) has a variety of useful components inside the inverter package:&lt;br /&gt;
* 2 high power inverters, for the 2 motors MG1 (starter) capable of handling 250 amps, and MG2 (drive motor) capable of handling 350 amps.&lt;br /&gt;
* A DC-DC converter to provide 12v power supply to the automotive systems and accessories.&lt;br /&gt;
* A boost module to boost the 200v battery pack up to 500v, which looks to be able to function as a battery charger (wish list for future development)&lt;br /&gt;
* See this video for a thorough disassembly and explanation of the Gen3 Inverter (Timestamp ???? ): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7Vm-C4MsW8&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Control Board ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The current version as of Jan 20, 2020 is v2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As designed by Damien Maguire, the open source hardware for the control board can be purchased as both partially populated and fully populated and tested boards on his website: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-webshop/toyota-partially-built-boards-copy/prius-gen-3-inverter-logic-board-partial Prius Gen3 Partial]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-webshop/toyota-built-and-tested-boards/prius-gen-3-inverter-built-tested Prius Gen3 Prius Gen3 Full &amp;amp; Tested]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The control board is a physical replacement for the OEM Prius Gen3 inverter logic board inside the inverter. Remove the old one and replace it with the new one.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Development History ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
V1 - This board was sold tested but also as a bare logic board requiring purchase of your own components and SMD placement and soldering skills. https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-webshop/toyota-bare-boards/prius-gen-3-inverter-bare-logic-board&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
V2 - A new board source was found to be both high quality and low cost. The boards were redesigned around the inventory of parts available from this supplier. In particular the high cost of populated and soldered boards (10x the price) from the source used to make the v1 boards is so significantly lower on the v2 that there are likely no savings by building and soldering the board yourself. The circuit now has hardware to support repurposing the MG1 inverter as a battery charger, though as of Jan 20, 2020, software is still in development.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Vendors ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 - ?? List of known vendors with support?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Support ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Community support is available on the [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=488 Prius Gen 3 Inverter Logic Board Support Thread]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You are not entitled to support, purchase from a vendor who offers support if you want it guaranteed. Treat the community with respect.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Inverter Model Numbers ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{|  class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! Inverter No || Car model(s) || Logic Board No || Power Board No || Compatible 50 pin connector|| PCB size || Confirmed works with board ||  Link &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| G9200-47141 || Auris 2012, RHD || || || || || || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|G9200-47140&lt;br /&gt;
|Prius 2010&lt;br /&gt;
|F1759-47041 01&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|Yes&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|Yes&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| G9200-47180  || || || || || || || [https://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1026169&amp;amp;postcount=8 Photo diyelectriccar.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| G9200-47190 || Auris || F1759-52010 04 || || ? || || || [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=51&amp;amp;start=270#p5661 Forum Thread openinverter.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|G9200-52010||Yaris||F1759-52010 04||F1789-52010|| ||154x143mm||&lt;br /&gt;
|https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=257&amp;amp;p=5828#p5828&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| G9200-52032 || Yaris 2015 || F1759-52010 04 || F1789-52010 || YES || Long 143mm || || [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=439#p5058 Forum Thread openinverter.com] [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=51&amp;amp;start=270#p5669 Forum Thread openinverter.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| G9201-52011 || Yaris || || || YES|||||| [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=439#p5681 Forum Thread openinverter.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| G9201-52012 || Prius C || F1759-52010 || F1789-52010 || YES (presumably) |||||| [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6979#p6979 Forum Thread openinverter.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Kit Assembly Instructions (V1C) ==&lt;br /&gt;
This guide is for the assembly of version V1C of the Gen 3 board available here: https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-webshop/toyota-built-and-tested-boards/prius-gen-3-inverter-built-tested&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is based on the assembly videos by Damien Maguire. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Part 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QE-zym8iIgM&amp;amp;t=2643s &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Part 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nu5_OBOPk4s&amp;amp;t=1787s&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Early Board Correction, pre July 2020 ===&lt;br /&gt;
The first batch of JLCPCB boards shipped have an incorrect resistor value that needs to be changed over. Boards &#039;&#039;shipped after Jun 26, 2020&#039;&#039; will not need to do this.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Power supply.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Resistor labeled R101 (labeled &#039;1002&#039;) needs swapping for a 8k2 resistor. &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200629 155303.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Soldering The Breakout Board ===&lt;br /&gt;
Solder the Ampseal socket to the the breakout board, the silk-screen indicates side and orientation fitment.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 174452.jpg|thumb|alt=|none]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next flip it over and solder the 34 way IDC locking header on, notch upwards as show.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Note: Some versions of the breakout board have and error in the silk-screen that indicate orientation incorrectly, with the notch towards the bottom.&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200606 130213.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Soldering the Main Board ===&lt;br /&gt;
The main board is mostly pretty easy to solder, the one exception is the 50 way white connector. I found that putting flux on the pads and dragging solder across them, placing the connector in place and then placing the iron on the pins was the easiest. &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200619 175629.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next up I did conn 1, it can only go one way, and is a piece of cake after the 50 way connector.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 174924.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
And Conn8, again easy.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 175047.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next the DCDC convert connector, again only fits one way.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 175849.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
MG1 and MG2 Current sensor Connectors, both these are the same, the tabs on both MG1 and MG2 are at the top.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 181654.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next up the L2 inductor, it can go either way&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605_182754.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next up I did the right angled pins for the wifi module, stick the pins in the module connector and then through the board, hold it in place and flip it over.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[add photo]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cut 2 lengths of 3 pins from the header pin strips for the ISP header for programming the Atmega328P that will be used ton control the buck-boost converter.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 183933.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To enable the DCDC converter for I&#039;ve bridged over the 2 pin holes, but you can add a switch or something here, or leave it open if you&#039;re not using the DCDC to keep the 12v battery charged.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 184633.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pin header for Alegro current sensor, currently no software exists to control the buck boost, hopefully in the future this will be able to be used as a charger, this pin header is for the possible addition of a current sensor to facilitate.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605_185543.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Three options exist on the board for flashing the firmware to the STM32.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you plan on programming your board with a [https://www.tag-connect.com/product/tc2050-idc-nl-050 TC2050 JTAG]  then obviously skip the next step.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Solder a 3 pin headers for single wire program interface, or a 6 pin header for FTDI interface.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;The photo below shows both headers populated, however you don&#039;t necessarily need both.&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 185557.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Last up is the 34-way ICD interlock connector for the breakout board. Notch outward.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200609 094633.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Powering up ===&lt;br /&gt;
Now it&#039;s time to power up the board with 12v and test.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Green wire is +12v (pin 1) and blue 0v (pin 11)&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200608 125857.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Screenshot 2020-06-07 at 1.32.12 pm.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Checking voltages ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check for ~3.3v here on C32&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200608 124947.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check for ~5v here on C21/C20/C22/C25&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200607 134336.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check for -5v here on the little via next to CONN7 or right next to CONN2 there&#039;s a via with -5V under it.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200608 125110.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Finally the 26v &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200608 125053.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Firmware ==&lt;br /&gt;
Full kits will be supplied programmed and partial kits will be un-programmed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Wifi Module Firmware ===&lt;br /&gt;
My wifi module came with the firmware already installed, but if yours didn&#039;t follow the steps below. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Programming Firmware ===&lt;br /&gt;
There are three different interfaces that are possible to program the firmware.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Below are instructions for using the single wire programming interface with the [https://www.st.com/en/development-tools/st-link-v2.html USB STLink V2].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Connect the 3 wire pin headers to the programming device.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Swp.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:S-l1600.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
The pin labeled &#039;&#039;DAT&#039;&#039; on the board should connect to &#039;&#039;SWDIO&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The middle pin of the 3 pins on the board should go to &#039;&#039;GND&#039;&#039; on the STLink V2&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The pin labeled &#039;&#039;CLK&#039;&#039; on the board should connect to &#039;&#039;SWCLK&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Using a Mac or Linux&#039;&#039;&#039; install https://github.com/stlink-org/stlink&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Run command to write the bootloader&amp;lt;blockquote&amp;gt;st-flash write stm32_loader.bin 0x08000000&amp;lt;/blockquote&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;For Windows&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;[Add instructions for writing bootloader]&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once the bootloader has been programmed the main firmware can be uploaded and upgraded via the [[web interface]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A wifi network should be visible with the name &#039;&#039;ESP-*&#039;&#039; connect to it&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Screenshot 2020-06-20 at 8.33.04 am.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once connected open a browser and navigate to http://192.168.4.1 and find the update section, upload the firmware.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Screenshot 2020-06-20 at 8.28.53 am.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once this has completed you can verify by scrolling to the Spot Values section and you&#039;ll see the software version&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Screenshot 2020-06-20 at 8.39.58 am.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Atmega328p Firmware ===&lt;br /&gt;
This will control the Buck Boost module that&#039;s hopefully going to be a functioning charger in the future, it also requires a simple bit of firmware to enable the DC-DC converter.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[Add instructions for firmware]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== First Run (PWM verify) ==&lt;br /&gt;
Once your board in installed in the inverter and all the internal connectors are connected you can power up the inverter with 12v as above. No need to have anything connected to the HV battery or MG1 or MG2. You&#039;ll hear an audible wine. We&#039;re first going to verify the PWM outputs on the board and then connecting up a motor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Connect pin 3, MG2_FORW_IN to 12v&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Navigate to the [[Web Interface]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Change the parameter  encmode to &#039;AB&#039; as at the moment we don&#039;t have any sensors connected.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Start the inverter in manual mode with the button&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Screenshot 2020-07-06 at 1.21.04 pm.png|thumb|alt=|none]]    &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now set the 2 testing parameters, fslipsnpnt and ampnom to 1. &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Screenshot 2020-07-06 at 1.21.13 pm.png|none|thumb]] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Using a scope, look for a PWM signal on MG2 A/B/C Hi/Low on the 50 pin connector. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Stop the inverter &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== First Run (Open loop motor spin) ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now connect up the 3 motor phases and a small voltage of around 30v to the HV, I manually pre-charged with a 50w 10ohm resistor for a couple of seconds, the supply needs to be able to supply 10 amps or so. I also had a 20 amp fuse inline.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As above, start the inverter in manual mode, set ampnom to 100 and fslipsnpnt to 10, the motor should start to spin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You may have [[Errors]] to address if this doesn&#039;t happen.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== DC-DC Converter ==&lt;br /&gt;
The inverter contains a DC DC converter, that is used to keep the 12v battery charged using the high voltage battery. This is the EV equivalent to the alternator on a combustion engined car.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As per the assembly instructions above this needs to be enabled via the jumper on the control board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the unmodified state, the DC DC converter will operate with a main battery voltage in the ~80v to ~235v range and will require a simple modification to allow it to operate at higher voltage range, ~140v to ~400v&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[instructions for modification to follow]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== 12v Battery Connection ==&lt;br /&gt;
The 12v battery positive connects to this post, it&#039;ll output ~14v when the DC-DC is running to keep the battery charged, the negative terminal of the battery should be connected to the case of the inverter.[[File:20200705_190706.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== High Voltage Battery Connection ==&lt;br /&gt;
The HV battery connection is bellow, DO NOT directly connect the battery here. It needs to be connected via contactors and a pre-charge resistor. This connection point by-passes the buck/boost converter.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200705 190723.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[Add details of pre-charge and contactor]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Motor Connection ==&lt;br /&gt;
If you are only using MG2 to power a motor, and not paralleling MG1 and MG2, connect your 3 phase wires from the motor to the outer 3 terminals.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200705 190657.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== IDC Connector ==&lt;br /&gt;
If you are not using the AMPSeal daughterboard, you can connect directly to the 34 pin IDC connector on the EVBMW board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Connections are as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|Pin Number&lt;br /&gt;
|Label&lt;br /&gt;
|Description&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1&lt;br /&gt;
|12V_IN&lt;br /&gt;
|Provide with +12V supply from battery or power supply for testing&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2&lt;br /&gt;
|12V_IN&lt;br /&gt;
|Provide with +12V supply from battery or power supply for testing&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|3&lt;br /&gt;
|MG2_FORW_IN&lt;br /&gt;
|Active high signal at 12V (switches at &amp;gt;7V) to tell the inverter which way to spin the motor. Take positive feed from 12V battery or supply and wire through a three position switch, with the switched connections running to forward and reverse.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|4&lt;br /&gt;
|MG2_REVER_IN&lt;br /&gt;
|Active high signal at 12V (switches at &amp;gt;7V) to tell the inverter which way to spin the motor. Take positive feed from 12V battery or supply and wire through a three position switch, with the switched connections running to forward and reverse.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|5&lt;br /&gt;
|MG2_START&lt;br /&gt;
|Active high signal at 12V (switches at &amp;gt;7V) to start the inverter and move it from pre-charge to run mode. Typically connected to the momentary &#039;START&#039; position of your ignition switch.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|6&lt;br /&gt;
|MG2_BRAKE_ON&lt;br /&gt;
|Active high signal at 12V (switches at &amp;gt;7V) to inform the inverter that the car is under braking. Typically takes a feed from the brake switch that also turns on brake lights etc.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|7&lt;br /&gt;
|CRUISE_IN&lt;br /&gt;
|Active high signal at 12V (switches at &amp;gt;7V) to turn on cruise control mode. This sets the current motor speed as the set point for cruise control. Cruise control is disabled by a signal from the brake switch.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|8&lt;br /&gt;
|VCC_5V&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;nowiki&amp;gt;+5V supply for temperature and throttle sensors&amp;lt;/nowiki&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|9&lt;br /&gt;
|MG2_ACCEL&lt;br /&gt;
|5V analogue input from first channel of throttle sensor. These typically take a 5V supply and ground and return to this pin a variable voltage that indicates throttle position.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|10&lt;br /&gt;
|MG2_BRAKE_TRANS&lt;br /&gt;
|5V analogue input from second channel of throttle sensor. These typically take a 5V supply and ground and return to this pin a variable voltage that indicates throttle position.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|11&lt;br /&gt;
|GND&lt;br /&gt;
|Common ground for 12V supply or 5V return.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|12&lt;br /&gt;
|GND&lt;br /&gt;
|Common ground for 12V supply or 5V return&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|13&lt;br /&gt;
|CAN_EXT_H&lt;br /&gt;
|CANBus digital communication connection for remote interface with inverter&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|14&lt;br /&gt;
|CAN_EXT_L&lt;br /&gt;
|CANBus digital communication connection for remote interface with inverter&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|15&lt;br /&gt;
|VCC_5V&lt;br /&gt;
|&amp;lt;nowiki&amp;gt;+5V supply for temperature and throttle sensors&amp;lt;/nowiki&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|16&lt;br /&gt;
|MG2_ENC_1&lt;br /&gt;
|Can be either digital input for encoder (in which case, connect the relevant encoder output here and provide the device with 5V and ground), or one of the two connections for the SIN winding if you are using a resolver for motor position.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|17&lt;br /&gt;
|MG2_ENC_2&lt;br /&gt;
|Can be either digital input for encoder (in which case, connect the relevant encoder output here and provide the device with 5V and ground), or one of the two connections for the COS winding if you are using a resolver for motor position.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|18&lt;br /&gt;
|GND&lt;br /&gt;
|Common ground for 12V supply or 5V return&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|19&lt;br /&gt;
|MG2_COSA&lt;br /&gt;
|Connect SIN winding of motor resolver here and to Encoder Channel A&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|20&lt;br /&gt;
|MG2_SINA&lt;br /&gt;
|Connect COS winding of motor resolver here and to Encoder Channel B&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|21&lt;br /&gt;
|MG2_EXCA&lt;br /&gt;
|Connect exciter winding of motor resolver here and to ground&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|22&lt;br /&gt;
|GND&lt;br /&gt;
|Common ground for 12V supply or 5V return&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|23&lt;br /&gt;
|MG2_STATOR_T1&lt;br /&gt;
|5V analogue input from motor temperature sensor. These are typically variable resistance devices. Connect the other side of the sensor to +5V.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|24&lt;br /&gt;
|MG2_STATOR_T2&lt;br /&gt;
|5V analogue input from motor temperature sensor. These are typically variable resistance devices. Connect the other side of the sensor to +5V.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|25&lt;br /&gt;
|MAIN_CON&lt;br /&gt;
|5V output to switch main HV contactor. Note that you cannot switch these 12V devices directly from this output. You will need either a transistor or smaller relay arrangement to provide the appropriate voltage/current.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|26&lt;br /&gt;
|PRECHG_RLY&lt;br /&gt;
|5V output to switch the pre-charge relay. Note you cannot switch these 12V devices directly from this output. You will need either a transistor or smaller relay arrangement to provide the appropriate voltage/current.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|27&lt;br /&gt;
|AC_CON&lt;br /&gt;
|5V output to switch the main charger AC input relay. Note you cannot switch these 12V devices directly from this output. You will need either a transistor or smaller relay arrangement to provide the appropriate voltage/current.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|28&lt;br /&gt;
|HV_CON&lt;br /&gt;
|?&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|29&lt;br /&gt;
|AC_PRECH&lt;br /&gt;
|5V output to switch the charger AC input pre-charge relay. Note you cannot switch these 12V devices directly from this output. You will need either a transistor or smaller relay arrangement to provide the appropriate voltage/current.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|30&lt;br /&gt;
|GND&lt;br /&gt;
|Common ground for 12V supply or 5V return&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|31&lt;br /&gt;
|EVSE_PROX&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|32&lt;br /&gt;
|CONTROL_PILOT&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|33&lt;br /&gt;
|CHG_CANH&lt;br /&gt;
|CANBus digital communication connection for remote interface with charger&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|34&lt;br /&gt;
|CHG_CANL&lt;br /&gt;
|CANBus digital communication connection for remote interface with charger&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Ampseal Socket &amp;amp; Plug ==&lt;br /&gt;
There are multiple part numbers for the large 35 way Ampseal through hole socket, with small mating differences, be sure to get a matching pair.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
TE connectivity &#039;&#039;&#039;776164-1&#039;&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;&#039;776163-1&#039;&#039;&#039; are a matched pair (source https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Connector-ECU-Terminals-35P-35-Way-776164-1-776231-1-776163-1-Male-Female-Pins/401764868163?hash=item5d8b0d6043:g:3TkAAOSwexhc1Tcy&amp;lt;nowiki/&amp;gt;Ebay)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:AMPSeal socket (male).jpg|alt=|none|thumb|AMPSeal socket (male) in 3D printed surround with pins marked]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The AMPSeal connector is wired as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|Pin Number&lt;br /&gt;
|AMPSeal Pinout Label&lt;br /&gt;
|Description&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1&lt;br /&gt;
|12V SUPPLY POSITIVE&lt;br /&gt;
|Provide with +12V supply from battery or power supply for testing&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2&lt;br /&gt;
|GROUND&lt;br /&gt;
|Common ground for 12V supply or 5V return&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|3&lt;br /&gt;
|FORWARD DIRECTION SIGNAL&lt;br /&gt;
|Active high signal at 12V (switches at &amp;gt;7V) to tell the inverter which way to spin the motor. Take positive feed from 12V battery or supply and wire through a three position switch, with the switched connections running to forward and reverse.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|4&lt;br /&gt;
|REVERSE DIRECTION SIGNAL&lt;br /&gt;
|Active high signal at 12V (switches at &amp;gt;7V) to tell the inverter which way to spin the motor. Take positive feed from 12V battery or supply and wire through a three position switch, with the switched connections running to forward and reverse.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|5&lt;br /&gt;
|START SIGNAL&lt;br /&gt;
|Active high signal at 12V (switches at &amp;gt;7V) to start the inverter and move it from pre-charge to run mode. Typically connected to the momentary &#039;START&#039; position of your ignition switch.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|6&lt;br /&gt;
|BRAKE DIGITAL SIGNAL&lt;br /&gt;
|Active high signal at 12V (switches at &amp;gt;7V) to inform the inverter that the car is under braking. Typically takes a feed from the brake switch that also turns on brake lights etc.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|7&lt;br /&gt;
|CRUISE CONTROL SIGNAL&lt;br /&gt;
|Active high signal at 12V (switches at &amp;gt;7V) to turn on cruise control mode. This sets the current motor speed as the set point for cruise control. Cruise control is disabled by a signal from the brake switch.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|8&lt;br /&gt;
|5V OUT&lt;br /&gt;
| +5V supply for temperature and throttle sensors&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|9&lt;br /&gt;
|ACCELERATOR CHAN 1 INPUT&lt;br /&gt;
|5V analogue input from first channel of throttle sensor. These typically take a 5V supply and ground and return to this pin a variable voltage that indicates throttle position.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|10&lt;br /&gt;
|ACCELERATOR CHAN 2 INPUT&lt;br /&gt;
|5V analogue input from second channel of throttle sensor. These typically take a 5V supply and ground and return to this pin a variable voltage that indicates throttle position.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|11&lt;br /&gt;
|GROUND&lt;br /&gt;
|Common ground for 12V supply or 5V return.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|12&lt;br /&gt;
|INVERTER CAN HIGH&lt;br /&gt;
|CANBus digital communication connection for remote interface with inverter&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|13&lt;br /&gt;
|INVERTER CAN LOW&lt;br /&gt;
|CANBus digital communication connection for remote interface with inverter&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|14&lt;br /&gt;
| +5V OUT&lt;br /&gt;
| +5V supply for temperature and throttle sensors&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|15&lt;br /&gt;
|ENCODER CHAN A&lt;br /&gt;
|Can be either digital input for encoder (in which case, connect the relevant encoder output here and provide the device with 5V and ground), or one of the two connections for the SIN winding if you are using a resolver for motor position.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|16&lt;br /&gt;
|ENCODER CHAN B&lt;br /&gt;
|Can be either digital input for encoder (in which case, connect the relevant encoder output here and provide the device with 5V and ground), or one of the two connections for the COS winding if you are using a resolver for motor position.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|17&lt;br /&gt;
|GROUND&lt;br /&gt;
|Common ground for 12V supply or 5V return&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|18&lt;br /&gt;
|RESOLVER SIN&lt;br /&gt;
|Connect SIN winding of motor resolver here and to Encoder Channel A&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|19&lt;br /&gt;
|RESOLVER COS&lt;br /&gt;
|Connect COS winding of motor resolver here and to Encoder Channel B&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|20&lt;br /&gt;
|RESOLVER EXC&lt;br /&gt;
|Connect exciter winding of motor resolver here and to ground&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|21&lt;br /&gt;
|GROUND&lt;br /&gt;
|Common ground for 12V supply or 5V return&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|22&lt;br /&gt;
|MOTOR TEMP SENSOR A&lt;br /&gt;
|5V analogue input from motor temperature sensor. These are typically variable resistance devices. Connect the other side of the sensor to +5V.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|23&lt;br /&gt;
|MOTOR TEMP SENSOR B&lt;br /&gt;
|5V analogue input from motor temperature sensor. These are typically variable resistance devices. Connect the other side of the sensor to +5V.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|24&lt;br /&gt;
|MAIN HV CONTACTOR&lt;br /&gt;
|5V output to switch main HV contactor. Note that you cannot switch these 12V devices directly from this output. You will need either a transistor or smaller relay arrangement to provide the appropriate voltage/current.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|25&lt;br /&gt;
|HV PRECHARGE RELAY&lt;br /&gt;
|5V output to switch the pre-charge relay. Note you cannot switch these 12V devices directly from this output. You will need either a transistor or smaller relay arrangement to provide the appropriate voltage/current.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|26&lt;br /&gt;
|CHARGER AC INPUT RELAY&lt;br /&gt;
|5V output to switch the main charger AC input relay. Note you cannot switch these 12V devices directly from this output. You will need either a transistor or smaller relay arrangement to provide the appropriate voltage/current.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|27&lt;br /&gt;
|CHARGER HV DC REQUEST&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|28&lt;br /&gt;
|CHARGER AC PRECHARGE RELAY&lt;br /&gt;
|5V output to switch the charger AC input pre-charge relay. Note you cannot switch these 12V devices directly from this output. You will need either a transistor or smaller relay arrangement to provide the appropriate voltage/current.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|29&lt;br /&gt;
|GROUND&lt;br /&gt;
|Common ground for 12V supply or 5V return&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|30&lt;br /&gt;
|EVSE PROXIMITY SIGNAL&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|31&lt;br /&gt;
|EVSE CONTROL PILOT SIGNAL&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|32&lt;br /&gt;
|CHARGER CAN HIGH&lt;br /&gt;
|CANBus digital communication connection for remote interface with charger&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|33&lt;br /&gt;
|CHARGER CAN LOW&lt;br /&gt;
|CANBus digital communication connection for remote interface with charger&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|34&lt;br /&gt;
|NOT USED&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|35&lt;br /&gt;
|NOT USED&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Connecting Resolver ==&lt;br /&gt;
For resolver connect EXC to one side of the exciter winding and other to Ground.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Connect one side of SIN winding to SIN and other to Encoder A&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Conenct one side of COS winding to COS and other to encoder B.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Notes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://github.com/damienmaguire/Prius-Gen3-Inverter/tree/master/V2 Damien&#039;s Prius Gen3 v2 Github]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://github.com/damienmaguire/Prius-Gen3-Inverter/blob/master/V1c/PriusGen3HandPlacedParts.csv Bill of Hand Placed Parts] (Github)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://github.com/damienmaguire/Prius-Gen3-Inverter/blob/master/V2/PriusG3_V1b_BOM_JLC.xls?raw=true Bill of Materials] (Github)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The control board takes advantage of the [https://openinverter.org/wiki/Downloads OpenInverter.org software] for control.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Bassmobile</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://openinverter.org/wiki/index.php?title=Toyota_Prius_Gen3_Board&amp;diff=863</id>
		<title>Toyota Prius Gen3 Board</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://openinverter.org/wiki/index.php?title=Toyota_Prius_Gen3_Board&amp;diff=863"/>
		<updated>2020-07-01T23:56:47Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Bassmobile: /* Notes */ add link to hand placed parts&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Prius Gen3 Inverter Control v2.jpg|thumb|Prius Gen3 Control Board v2]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Toyota Prius Gen3 Board is an open source project to repurpose 2010-2015 Toyota Prius inverters for DIY EV use. It consists of a circuit board and programming that replaces the original logic board in the inverter and allows independent control of it without communicating with a Prius ECU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that there is also a [[Toyota Prius Gen2 Board]] for the 2004-2009 model years.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Prius Inverter ==&lt;br /&gt;
The Toyota Prius is a hybrid vehicle. Their inverters are suitable and attractive for DIY EVs because of:&lt;br /&gt;
* Large part availability. Priuses have been made in large numbers for 20 years.&lt;br /&gt;
* High affordability. Prius inverters are available for around $150 from scrapyards everywhere.&lt;br /&gt;
* Durability. Toyota engineers appear to have made the inverters foolproof, many inputs and outputs gracefully handle fault conditions.&lt;br /&gt;
* Respectable performance. Rated for 50kW output, but tested to handle 600v, and 500+A on MG2. (MG1 unknown, Gen2 had 70% of MG2 on MG1).&lt;br /&gt;
* Ease of repurposing. Emulating the original ECU seems reasonably feasible.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Gen3 Prius (2010-2015 model years) has a variety of useful components inside the inverter package:&lt;br /&gt;
* 2 high power inverters, for the 2 motors MG1 (starter) capable of handling 250 amps, and MG2 (drive motor) capable of handling 350 amps.&lt;br /&gt;
* A DC-DC converter to provide 12v power supply to the automotive systems and accessories.&lt;br /&gt;
* A boost module to boost the 200v battery pack up to 500v, which looks to be able to function as a battery charger (wish list for future development)&lt;br /&gt;
* See this video for a thorough disassembly and explanation of the Gen3 Inverter (Timestamp ???? ): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7Vm-C4MsW8&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Control Board ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The current version as of Jan 20, 2020 is v2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As designed by Damien Maguire, the open source hardware for the control board can be purchased as both partially populated and fully populated and tested boards on his website: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-webshop/toyota-partially-built-boards-copy/prius-gen-3-inverter-logic-board-partial Prius Gen3 Partial]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-webshop/toyota-built-and-tested-boards/prius-gen-3-inverter-built-tested Prius Gen3 Prius Gen3 Full &amp;amp; Tested]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The control board is a physical replacement for the OEM Prius Gen3 inverter logic board inside the inverter. Remove the old one and replace it with the new one.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Development History ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
V1 - This board was sold tested but also as a bare logic board requiring purchase of your own components and SMD placement and soldering skills. https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-webshop/toyota-bare-boards/prius-gen-3-inverter-bare-logic-board&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
V2 - A new board source was found to be both high quality and low cost. The boards were redesigned around the inventory of parts available from this supplier. In particular the high cost of populated and soldered boards (10x the price) from the source used to make the v1 boards is so significantly lower on the v2 that there are likely no savings by building and soldering the board yourself. The circuit now has hardware to support repurposing the MG1 inverter as a battery charger, though as of Jan 20, 2020, software is still in development.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Vendors ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 - ?? List of known vendors with support?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Support ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Community support is available on the [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=488 Prius Gen 3 Inverter Logic Board Support Thread]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You are not entitled to support, purchase from a vendor who offers support if you want it guaranteed. Treat the community with respect.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Inverter Model Numbers ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{|  class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! Inverter No || Car model(s) || Logic Board No || Power Board No || Compatible 50 pin connector|| PCB size || Confirmed works with board ||  Link &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| G9200-47141 || Auris 2012, RHD || || || || || || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|G9200-47140&lt;br /&gt;
|Prius 2010&lt;br /&gt;
|F1759-47041 01&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| G9200-47180  || || || || || || || [https://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1026169&amp;amp;postcount=8 Photo diyelectriccar.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| G9200-47190 || Auris || F1759-52010 04 || || ? || || || [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=51&amp;amp;start=270#p5661 Forum Thread openinverter.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|G9200-52010||Yaris||F1759-52010 04||F1789-52010|| ||154x143mm||&lt;br /&gt;
|https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=257&amp;amp;p=5828#p5828&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| G9200-52032 || Yaris 2015 || F1759-52010 04 || F1789-52010 || YES || Long 143mm || || [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=439#p5058 Forum Thread openinverter.com] [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=51&amp;amp;start=270#p5669 Forum Thread openinverter.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| G9201-52011 || Yaris || || || YES|||||| [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=439#p5681 Forum Thread openinverter.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| G9201-52012 || Prius C || F1759-52010 || F1789-52010 || YES (presumably) |||||| [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6979#p6979 Forum Thread openinverter.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Kit Assembly Instructions (V1C) ==&lt;br /&gt;
This guide is for the assembly of version V1C of the Gen 3 board available here: https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-webshop/toyota-built-and-tested-boards/prius-gen-3-inverter-built-tested&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is based on the assembly videos by Damien Maguire. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Part 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QE-zym8iIgM&amp;amp;t=2643s &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Part 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nu5_OBOPk4s&amp;amp;t=1787s&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Early Board Correction, pre July 2020 ===&lt;br /&gt;
The first batch of JLCPCB boards shipped have an incorrect resistor value that needs to be changed over. Boards &#039;&#039;shipped after Jun 26, 2020&#039;&#039; will not need to do this.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Power supply.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Resistor labeled R101 (labeled &#039;1002&#039;) needs swapping for a 8k2 resistor. &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200629 155303.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Soldering The Breakout Board ===&lt;br /&gt;
Solder the Ampseal socket to the the breakout board, the silk-screen indicates side and orientation fitment.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 174452.jpg|thumb|alt=|none]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next flip it over and solder the 34 way IDC locking header on, notch upwards as show.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Note: Some versions of the breakout board have and error in the silk-screen that indicate orientation incorrectly, with the notch towards the bottom.&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200606 130213.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Soldering the Main Board ===&lt;br /&gt;
The main board is mostly pretty easy to solder, the one exception is the 50 way white connector. I found that putting flux on the pads and dragging solder across them, placing the connector in place and then placing the iron on the pins was the easiest. &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200619 175629.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next up I did conn 1, it can only go one way, and is a piece of cake after the 50 way connector.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 174924.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
And Conn8, again easy.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 175047.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next the DCDC convert connector, again only fits one way.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 175849.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
MG1 and MG2 Current sensor Connectors, both these are the same, the tabs on both MG1 and MG2 are at the top.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 181654.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next up the L2 inductor, it can go either way&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605_182754.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next up I did the right angled pins for the wifi module, stick the pins in the module connector and then through the board, hold it in place and flip it over.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[add photo]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cut 2 lengths of 3 pins from the header pin strips for the ISP header for programming the Atmega328P that will be used ton control the buck-boost converter.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 183933.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To enable the DCDC converter for I&#039;ve bridged over the 2 pin holes, but you can add a switch or something here, or leave it open if you&#039;re not using the DCDC to keep the 12v battery charged.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 184633.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pin header for Alegro current sensor, currently no software exists to control the buck boost, hopefully in the future this will be able to be used as a charger, this pin header is for the possible addition of a current sensor to facilitate.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605_185543.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, cut 3 pin headers and 6 pin headers off the strip, the 3 are for the single wire program interface for the STM32, the 6 is for x&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 185557.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Last up is the lock connector for the breakout board. Notch outward.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200609 094633.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Powering up ===&lt;br /&gt;
Now it&#039;s time to power up the board with 12v and test.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Green wire is +12v (pin 1) and blue 0v (pin 11)&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200608 125857.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Screenshot 2020-06-07 at 1.32.12 pm.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Checking voltages ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check for ~3.3v here on C32&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200608 124947.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check for ~5v here on C21/C20/C22/C25&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200607 134336.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check for -5v here on the little via next to CONN7 or right next to CONN2 there&#039;s a via with -5V under it.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200608 125110.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Finally the 26v &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200608 125053.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Firmware ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Wifi Module Firmware ===&lt;br /&gt;
My wifi module came with the firmware already installed, but if yours didn&#039;t follow the steps below. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Main Firmware ===&lt;br /&gt;
There&#039;s many ways of achieving this but this is what I did, using an STLink V2 clone available on eBay for a couple of £.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Connect the 3 wire pin headers to the programming device.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Swp.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:S-l1600.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
The pin labeled &#039;&#039;DAT&#039;&#039; on the board should connect to &#039;&#039;SWDIO&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The middle pin of the 3 pins on the board should go to &#039;&#039;GND&#039;&#039; on the STLink V2&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The pin labeled &#039;&#039;CLK&#039;&#039; on the board should connect to &#039;&#039;SWCLK&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Using a Mac or Linux&#039;&#039;&#039; install https://github.com/stlink-org/stlink&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Run command to write the bootloader&amp;lt;blockquote&amp;gt;st-flash write stm32_loader.bin 0x08000000&amp;lt;/blockquote&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;For Windows&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;[Add instructions for writing bootloader]&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once the bootloader has been programmed the main firmware can be uploaded and upgraded via the web interface.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A wifi network should be visible with the name &#039;&#039;ESP-*&#039;&#039; connect to it&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Screenshot 2020-06-20 at 8.33.04 am.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once connected open a browser and navigate to http://192.168.4.1 and find the update section, upload the firmware.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Screenshot 2020-06-20 at 8.28.53 am.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once this has completed you can verify by scrolling to the Spot Values section and you&#039;ll see the software version&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Screenshot 2020-06-20 at 8.39.58 am.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Atmega328p Firmware ===&lt;br /&gt;
This will control the Buck Boost module that&#039;s hopefully going to be a functioning charger in the future, it also requires a simple bit of firmware to enable the DC-DC converter.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[Add instructions for firmware]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== DC-DC Converter ==&lt;br /&gt;
The inverter contains a DC DC converter, that is used to keep the 12v battery charged using the high voltage battery. This is the EV equivalent to the alternator on a combustion engined car.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As per the assembly instructions above this needs to be enabled via the jumper on the control board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the unmodified state, the DC DC converter will operate with a main battery voltage in the ~80v to ~235v range and will require a simple modification to allow it to operate at higher voltage range, ~140v to ~400v&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[instructions for modification to follow]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== 12v Battery Connection ==&lt;br /&gt;
[Add details]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== High Voltage Battery Connection ==&lt;br /&gt;
[Add battery connection details]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Ampseal Socket &amp;amp; Plug ==&lt;br /&gt;
There are two part numbers for the large 35 way Ampseal through hole socket&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;TE Connectivity [https://octopart.com/1-776163-1-te+connectivity-1806841?r=sp 1-776163-1]&#039;&#039; (black) or &#039;&#039;[https://octopart.com/1776163-4-te+connectivity-46920685?r=sp 1-776163-4] (grey)&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are numerous part numbers for the mating Free Hanging Plug Housing, the most common and affordable is:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;TE Connectivity [https://octopart.com/776164-2-te+connectivity-40331863 776164-2]&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Connecting Resolver ==&lt;br /&gt;
For resolver connect EXC to one side of the exciter winding and other to Ground.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Connect one side of SIN winding to SIN and other to Encoder A&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Conenct one side of COS winding to COS and other to encoder B.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Notes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://github.com/damienmaguire/Prius-Gen3-Inverter/tree/master/V2 Damien&#039;s Prius Gen3 v2 Github]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://github.com/damienmaguire/Prius-Gen3-Inverter/blob/master/V1c/PriusGen3HandPlacedParts.csv Bill of Hand Placed Parts] (Github)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://github.com/damienmaguire/Prius-Gen3-Inverter/blob/master/V2/PriusG3_V1b_BOM_JLC.xls?raw=true Bill of Materials] (Github)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The control board takes advantage of the [https://openinverter.org/wiki/Downloads OpenInverter.org software] for control.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Bassmobile</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://openinverter.org/wiki/index.php?title=Toyota_Prius_Gen3_Board&amp;diff=838</id>
		<title>Toyota Prius Gen3 Board</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://openinverter.org/wiki/index.php?title=Toyota_Prius_Gen3_Board&amp;diff=838"/>
		<updated>2020-06-22T21:15:54Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Bassmobile: /* Soldering The Breakout Board */  move part number refs to section&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Prius Gen3 Inverter Control v2.jpg|thumb|Prius Gen3 Control Board v2]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Toyota Prius Gen3 Board is an open source project to repurpose 2010-2015 Toyota Prius inverters for DIY EV use. It consists of a circuit board and programming that replaces the original logic board in the inverter and allows independent control of it without communicating with a Prius ECU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that there is also a [[Toyota Prius Gen2 Board]] for the 2004-2009 model years.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Prius Inverter ==&lt;br /&gt;
The Toyota Prius is a hybrid vehicle. Their inverters are suitable and attractive for DIY EVs because of:&lt;br /&gt;
* Large part availability. Priuses have been made in large numbers for 20 years.&lt;br /&gt;
* High affordability. Prius inverters are available for around $150 from scrapyards everywhere.&lt;br /&gt;
* Durability. Toyota engineers appear to have made the inverters foolproof, many inputs and outputs gracefully handle fault conditions.&lt;br /&gt;
* Respectable performance. Rated for 50kW output, but tested to handle 600v, and 500+A on MG2. (MG1 unknown, Gen2 had 70% of MG2 on MG1).&lt;br /&gt;
* Ease of repurposing. Emulating the original ECU seems reasonably feasible.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Gen3 Prius (2010-2015 model years) has a variety of useful components inside the inverter package:&lt;br /&gt;
* 2 high power inverters, for the 2 motors MG1 (starter) capable of handling 250 amps, and MG2 (drive motor) capable of handling 350 amps.&lt;br /&gt;
* A DC-DC converter to provide 12v power supply to the automotive systems and accessories.&lt;br /&gt;
* A boost module to boost the 200v battery pack up to 500v, which looks to be able to function as a battery charger (wish list for future development)&lt;br /&gt;
* See this video for a thorough disassembly and explanation of the Gen3 Inverter (Timestamp ???? ): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7Vm-C4MsW8&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Control Board ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The current version as of Jan 20, 2020 is v2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As designed by Damien Maguire, the open source hardware for the control board can be purchased as both partially populated and fully populated and tested boards on his website: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-webshop/toyota-partially-built-boards-copy/prius-gen-3-inverter-logic-board-partial Prius Gen3 Partial]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-webshop/toyota-built-and-tested-boards/prius-gen-3-inverter-built-tested Prius Gen3 Prius Gen3 Full &amp;amp; Tested]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The control board is a physical replacement for the OEM Prius Gen3 inverter logic board inside the inverter. Remove the old one and replace it with the new one.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Development History ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
V1 - This board was sold tested but also as a bare logic board requiring purchase of your own components and SMD placement and soldering skills. https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-webshop/toyota-bare-boards/prius-gen-3-inverter-bare-logic-board&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
V2 - A new board source was found to be both high quality and low cost. The boards were redesigned around the inventory of parts available from this supplier. In particular the high cost of populated and soldered boards (10x the price) from the source used to make the v1 boards is so significantly lower on the v2 that there are likely no savings by building and soldering the board yourself. The circuit now has hardware to support repurposing the MG1 inverter as a battery charger, though as of Jan 20, 2020, software is still in development.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Vendors ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 - ?? List of known vendors with support?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Support ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Community support is available on the [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=488 Prius Gen 3 Inverter Logic Board Support Thread]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You are not entitled to support, purchase from a vendor who offers support if you want it guaranteed. Treat the community with respect.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Inverter Model Numbers ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{|  class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! Inverter No || Car model(s) || Logic Board No || Power Board No || Compatible 50 pin connector|| PCB size || Confirmed works with board ||  Link &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| G9200-47141 || Auris 2012, RHD || || || || || || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|G9200-47140&lt;br /&gt;
|Prius 2010&lt;br /&gt;
|F1759-47041 01&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| G9200-47180  || || || || || || || [https://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1026169&amp;amp;postcount=8 Photo diyelectriccar.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| G9200-47190 || Auris || F1759-52010 04 || || ? || || || [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=51&amp;amp;start=270#p5661 Forum Thread openinverter.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|G9200-52010||Yaris||F1759-52010 04||F1789-52010|| ||154x143mm||&lt;br /&gt;
|https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=257&amp;amp;p=5828#p5828&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| G9200-52032 || Yaris 2015 || F1759-52010 04 || F1789-52010 || YES || Long 143mm || || [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=439#p5058 Forum Thread openinverter.com] [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=51&amp;amp;start=270#p5669 Forum Thread openinverter.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| G9201-52011 || Yaris || || || YES|||||| [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=439#p5681 Forum Thread openinverter.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| G9201-52012 || Prius C || F1759-52010 || F1789-52010 || YES (presumably) |||||| [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6979#p6979 Forum Thread openinverter.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Kit Assembly Instructions (V1C) ==&lt;br /&gt;
This guide is for the assembly of version V1C of the Gen 3 board available here: https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-webshop/toyota-built-and-tested-boards/prius-gen-3-inverter-built-tested&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is based on the assembly videos by Damien Maguire. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Part 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QE-zym8iIgM&amp;amp;t=2643s &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Part 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nu5_OBOPk4s&amp;amp;t=1787s&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Soldering The Breakout Board ===&lt;br /&gt;
Solder the Ampseal socket to the the breakout board, the silk-screen indicates side and orientation fitment.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 174452.jpg|thumb|alt=|none]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next flip it over and solder the 34 way IDC locking header on, notch upwards as show.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Note: Some versions of the breakout board have and error in the silk-screen that indicate orientation incorrectly, with the notch towards the bottom.&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200606 130213.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Soldering the Main Board ===&lt;br /&gt;
The main board is mostly pretty easy to solder, the one exception is the 50 way white connector. I found that putting flux on the pads and dragging solder across them, placing the connector in place and then placing the iron on the pins was the easiest. &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200619 175629.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next up I did conn 1, it can only go one way, and is a piece of cake after the 50 way connector.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 174924.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
And Conn8, again easy.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 175047.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next the DCDC convert connector, again only fits one way.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 175849.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
MG1 and MG2 Current sensor Connectors, both these are the same, the tabs on both MG1 and MG2 are at the top.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 181654.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next up the L2 inductor, it can go either way&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605_182754.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next up I did the right angled pins for the wifi module, stick the pins in the module connector and then through the board, hold it in place and flip it over.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[add photo]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cut 2 lengths of 3 pins from the header pin strips for the ISP header for programming the Atmega328P that will be used ton control the buck-boost converter.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 183933.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To enable the DCDC converter for I&#039;ve bridged over the 2 pin holes, but you can add a switch or something here, or leave it open if you&#039;re not using the DCDC to keep the 12v battery charged.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 184633.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pin header for Alegro current sensor, currently no software exists to control the buck boost, hopefully in the future this will be able to be used as a charger, this pin header is for the possible addition of a current sensor to facilitate.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605_185543.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, cut 3 pin headers and 6 pin headers off the strip, the 3 are for the single wire program interface for the STM32, the 6 is for x&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 185557.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Last up is the lock connector for the breakout board. Notch outward.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200609 094633.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Powering up ===&lt;br /&gt;
Now it&#039;s time to power up the board with 12v and test.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Green wire is +12v (pin 1) and blue 0v (pin 11)&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200608 125857.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Screenshot 2020-06-07 at 1.32.12 pm.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Checking voltages ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check for ~3.3v here on C32&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200608 124947.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check for ~5v here on C21/C20/C22/C25&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200607 134336.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check for -5v here on the little via next to CONN7 or right next to CONN2 there&#039;s a via with -5V under it.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200608 125110.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Finally the 26v &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200608 125053.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Firmware ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Wifi Module Firmware ===&lt;br /&gt;
My wifi module came with the firmware already installed, but if yours didn&#039;t follow the steps below. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Main Firmware ===&lt;br /&gt;
There&#039;s many ways of achieving this but this is what I did, using an STLink V2 clone available on eBay for a couple of £.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Connect the 3 wire pin headers to the programming device.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Swp.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:S-l1600.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
The pin labeled &#039;&#039;DAT&#039;&#039; on the board should connect to &#039;&#039;SWDIO&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The middle pin of the 3 pins on the board should go to &#039;&#039;GND&#039;&#039; on the STLink V2&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The pin labeled &#039;&#039;CLK&#039;&#039; on the board should connect to &#039;&#039;SWCLK&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Using a Mac or Linux&#039;&#039;&#039; install https://github.com/stlink-org/stlink&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Run command to write the bootloader&amp;lt;blockquote&amp;gt;st-flash write stm32_loader.bin 0x08000000&amp;lt;/blockquote&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;For Windows&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;[Add instructions for writing bootloader]&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once the bootloader has been programmed the main firmware can be uploaded and upgraded via the web interface.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A wifi network should be visible with the name &#039;&#039;ESP-*&#039;&#039; connect to it&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Screenshot 2020-06-20 at 8.33.04 am.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once connected open a browser and navigate to http://192.168.4.1 and find the update section, upload the firmware.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Screenshot 2020-06-20 at 8.28.53 am.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once this has completed you can verify by scrolling to the Spot Values section and you&#039;ll see the software version&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Screenshot 2020-06-20 at 8.39.58 am.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Atmega328p Firmware ===&lt;br /&gt;
This will control the Buck Boost module that&#039;s hopefully going to be a functioning charger in the future, it also requires a simple bit of firmware to enable the DC-DC converter.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[Add instructions for firmware]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== DC-DC Converter ==&lt;br /&gt;
The inverter contains a DC DC converter, that is used to keep the 12v battery charged using the high voltage battery. This is the EV equivalent to the alternator on a combustion engined car.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As per the assembly instructions above this needs to be enabled via the jumper on the control board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the unmodified state, the DC DC converter will operate with a main battery voltage in the ~80v to ~235v range and will require a simple modification to allow it to operate at higher voltage range, ~140v to ~400v&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[instructions for modification to follow]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== 12v Battery Connection ==&lt;br /&gt;
[Add details]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== High Voltage Battery Connection ==&lt;br /&gt;
[Add battery connection details]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Ampseal Socket &amp;amp; Plug ==&lt;br /&gt;
There are two part numbers for the large 35 way Ampseal through hole socket&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;TE Connectivity [https://octopart.com/1-776163-1-te+connectivity-1806841?r=sp 1-776163-1]&#039;&#039; (black) or &#039;&#039;[https://octopart.com/1776163-4-te+connectivity-46920685?r=sp 1-776163-4] (grey)&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are numerous part numbers for the mating Free Hanging Plug Housing, the most common and affordable is:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;TE Connectivity [https://octopart.com/776164-2-te+connectivity-40331863 776164-2]&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Connecting Resolver ==&lt;br /&gt;
For resolver connect EXC to one side of the exciter winding and other to Ground.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Connect one side of SIN winding to SIN and other to Encoder A&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Conenct one side of COS winding to COS and other to encoder B.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Notes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://github.com/damienmaguire/Prius-Gen3-Inverter/tree/master/V2 Damien&#039;s Prius Gen3 v2 Github]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://github.com/damienmaguire/Prius-Gen3-Inverter/blob/master/V2/PriusG3_V1b_BOM_JLC.xls?raw=true Bill of Materials] (from above)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The control board takes advantage of the [https://openinverter.org/wiki/Downloads OpenInverter.org software] for control.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Bassmobile</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://openinverter.org/wiki/index.php?title=Toyota_Prius_Gen3_Board&amp;diff=837</id>
		<title>Toyota Prius Gen3 Board</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://openinverter.org/wiki/index.php?title=Toyota_Prius_Gen3_Board&amp;diff=837"/>
		<updated>2020-06-22T21:07:02Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Bassmobile: /* Ampseal Connector */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Prius Gen3 Inverter Control v2.jpg|thumb|Prius Gen3 Control Board v2]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Toyota Prius Gen3 Board is an open source project to repurpose 2010-2015 Toyota Prius inverters for DIY EV use. It consists of a circuit board and programming that replaces the original logic board in the inverter and allows independent control of it without communicating with a Prius ECU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that there is also a [[Toyota Prius Gen2 Board]] for the 2004-2009 model years.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Prius Inverter ==&lt;br /&gt;
The Toyota Prius is a hybrid vehicle. Their inverters are suitable and attractive for DIY EVs because of:&lt;br /&gt;
* Large part availability. Priuses have been made in large numbers for 20 years.&lt;br /&gt;
* High affordability. Prius inverters are available for around $150 from scrapyards everywhere.&lt;br /&gt;
* Durability. Toyota engineers appear to have made the inverters foolproof, many inputs and outputs gracefully handle fault conditions.&lt;br /&gt;
* Respectable performance. Rated for 50kW output, but tested to handle 600v, and 500+A on MG2. (MG1 unknown, Gen2 had 70% of MG2 on MG1).&lt;br /&gt;
* Ease of repurposing. Emulating the original ECU seems reasonably feasible.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Gen3 Prius (2010-2015 model years) has a variety of useful components inside the inverter package:&lt;br /&gt;
* 2 high power inverters, for the 2 motors MG1 (starter) capable of handling 250 amps, and MG2 (drive motor) capable of handling 350 amps.&lt;br /&gt;
* A DC-DC converter to provide 12v power supply to the automotive systems and accessories.&lt;br /&gt;
* A boost module to boost the 200v battery pack up to 500v, which looks to be able to function as a battery charger (wish list for future development)&lt;br /&gt;
* See this video for a thorough disassembly and explanation of the Gen3 Inverter (Timestamp ???? ): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7Vm-C4MsW8&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Control Board ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The current version as of Jan 20, 2020 is v2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As designed by Damien Maguire, the open source hardware for the control board can be purchased as both partially populated and fully populated and tested boards on his website: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-webshop/toyota-partially-built-boards-copy/prius-gen-3-inverter-logic-board-partial Prius Gen3 Partial]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-webshop/toyota-built-and-tested-boards/prius-gen-3-inverter-built-tested Prius Gen3 Prius Gen3 Full &amp;amp; Tested]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The control board is a physical replacement for the OEM Prius Gen3 inverter logic board inside the inverter. Remove the old one and replace it with the new one.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Development History ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
V1 - This board was sold tested but also as a bare logic board requiring purchase of your own components and SMD placement and soldering skills. https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-webshop/toyota-bare-boards/prius-gen-3-inverter-bare-logic-board&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
V2 - A new board source was found to be both high quality and low cost. The boards were redesigned around the inventory of parts available from this supplier. In particular the high cost of populated and soldered boards (10x the price) from the source used to make the v1 boards is so significantly lower on the v2 that there are likely no savings by building and soldering the board yourself. The circuit now has hardware to support repurposing the MG1 inverter as a battery charger, though as of Jan 20, 2020, software is still in development.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Vendors ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 - ?? List of known vendors with support?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Support ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Community support is available on the [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=488 Prius Gen 3 Inverter Logic Board Support Thread]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You are not entitled to support, purchase from a vendor who offers support if you want it guaranteed. Treat the community with respect.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Inverter Model Numbers ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{|  class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! Inverter No || Car model(s) || Logic Board No || Power Board No || Compatible 50 pin connector|| PCB size || Confirmed works with board ||  Link &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| G9200-47141 || Auris 2012, RHD || || || || || || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|G9200-47140&lt;br /&gt;
|Prius 2010&lt;br /&gt;
|F1759-47041 01&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| G9200-47180  || || || || || || || [https://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1026169&amp;amp;postcount=8 Photo diyelectriccar.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| G9200-47190 || Auris || F1759-52010 04 || || ? || || || [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=51&amp;amp;start=270#p5661 Forum Thread openinverter.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|G9200-52010||Yaris||F1759-52010 04||F1789-52010|| ||154x143mm||&lt;br /&gt;
|https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=257&amp;amp;p=5828#p5828&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| G9200-52032 || Yaris 2015 || F1759-52010 04 || F1789-52010 || YES || Long 143mm || || [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=439#p5058 Forum Thread openinverter.com] [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=51&amp;amp;start=270#p5669 Forum Thread openinverter.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| G9201-52011 || Yaris || || || YES|||||| [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=439#p5681 Forum Thread openinverter.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| G9201-52012 || Prius C || F1759-52010 || F1789-52010 || YES (presumably) |||||| [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6979#p6979 Forum Thread openinverter.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Kit Assembly Instructions (V1C) ==&lt;br /&gt;
This guide is for the assembly of version V1C of the Gen 3 board available here: https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-webshop/toyota-built-and-tested-boards/prius-gen-3-inverter-built-tested&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is based on the assembly videos by Damien Maguire. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Part 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QE-zym8iIgM&amp;amp;t=2643s &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Part 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nu5_OBOPk4s&amp;amp;t=1787s&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Soldering The Breakout Board ===&lt;br /&gt;
Solde the [[Ampseal socket]] to the the breakout board, the silk-screen indicates fitment.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are two part numbers for the large 35 way Ampseal through hole socket &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;TE Connectivity [https://octopart.com/1-776163-1-te+connectivity-1806841?r=sp 1-776163-1]&#039;&#039; (black) or &#039;&#039;[https://octopart.com/1776163-4-te+connectivity-46920685?r=sp 1-776163-4] (grey)&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 174452.jpg|thumb|alt=|none]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next flip it over and solder the 34 way IDC locking header on, notch upwards as show.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Note: Some versions of the breakout board have and error in the silk-screen that indicate orientation incorrectly, with the notch towards the bottom.&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200606 130213.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Soldering the Main Board ===&lt;br /&gt;
The main board is mostly pretty easy to solder, the one exception is the 50 way white connector. I found that putting flux on the pads and dragging solder across them, placing the connector in place and then placing the iron on the pins was the easiest. &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200619 175629.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next up I did conn 1, it can only go one way, and is a piece of cake after the 50 way connector.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 174924.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
And Conn8, again easy.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 175047.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next the DCDC convert connector, again only fits one way.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 175849.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
MG1 and MG2 Current sensor Connectors, both these are the same, the tabs on both MG1 and MG2 are at the top.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 181654.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next up the L2 inductor, it can go either way&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605_182754.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next up I did the right angled pins for the wifi module, stick the pins in the module connector and then through the board, hold it in place and flip it over.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[add photo]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cut 2 lengths of 3 pins from the header pin strips for the ISP header for programming the Atmega328P that will be used ton control the buck-boost converter.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 183933.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To enable the DCDC converter for I&#039;ve bridged over the 2 pin holes, but you can add a switch or something here, or leave it open if you&#039;re not using the DCDC to keep the 12v battery charged.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 184633.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pin header for Alegro current sensor, currently no software exists to control the buck boost, hopefully in the future this will be able to be used as a charger, this pin header is for the possible addition of a current sensor to facilitate.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605_185543.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, cut 3 pin headers and 6 pin headers off the strip, the 3 are for the single wire program interface for the STM32, the 6 is for x&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 185557.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Last up is the lock connector for the breakout board. Notch outward.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200609 094633.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Powering up ===&lt;br /&gt;
Now it&#039;s time to power up the board with 12v and test.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Green wire is +12v (pin 1) and blue 0v (pin 11)&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200608 125857.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Screenshot 2020-06-07 at 1.32.12 pm.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Checking voltages ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check for ~3.3v here on C32&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200608 124947.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check for ~5v here on C21/C20/C22/C25&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200607 134336.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check for -5v here on the little via next to CONN7 or right next to CONN2 there&#039;s a via with -5V under it.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200608 125110.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Finally the 26v &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200608 125053.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Firmware ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Wifi Module Firmware ===&lt;br /&gt;
My wifi module came with the firmware already installed, but if yours didn&#039;t follow the steps below. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Main Firmware ===&lt;br /&gt;
There&#039;s many ways of achieving this but this is what I did, using an STLink V2 clone available on eBay for a couple of £.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Connect the 3 wire pin headers to the programming device.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Swp.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:S-l1600.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
The pin labeled &#039;&#039;DAT&#039;&#039; on the board should connect to &#039;&#039;SWDIO&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The middle pin of the 3 pins on the board should go to &#039;&#039;GND&#039;&#039; on the STLink V2&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The pin labeled &#039;&#039;CLK&#039;&#039; on the board should connect to &#039;&#039;SWCLK&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Using a Mac or Linux&#039;&#039;&#039; install https://github.com/stlink-org/stlink&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Run command to write the bootloader&amp;lt;blockquote&amp;gt;st-flash write stm32_loader.bin 0x08000000&amp;lt;/blockquote&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;For Windows&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;[Add instructions for writing bootloader]&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once the bootloader has been programmed the main firmware can be uploaded and upgraded via the web interface.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A wifi network should be visible with the name &#039;&#039;ESP-*&#039;&#039; connect to it&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Screenshot 2020-06-20 at 8.33.04 am.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once connected open a browser and navigate to http://192.168.4.1 and find the update section, upload the firmware.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Screenshot 2020-06-20 at 8.28.53 am.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once this has completed you can verify by scrolling to the Spot Values section and you&#039;ll see the software version&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Screenshot 2020-06-20 at 8.39.58 am.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Atmega328p Firmware ===&lt;br /&gt;
This will control the Buck Boost module that&#039;s hopefully going to be a functioning charger in the future, it also requires a simple bit of firmware to enable the DC-DC converter.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[Add instructions for firmware]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== DC-DC Converter ==&lt;br /&gt;
The inverter contains a DC DC converter, that is used to keep the 12v battery charged using the high voltage battery. This is the EV equivalent to the alternator on a combustion engined car.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As per the assembly instructions above this needs to be enabled via the jumper on the control board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the unmodified state, the DC DC converter will operate with a main battery voltage in the ~80v to ~235v range and will require a simple modification to allow it to operate at higher voltage range, ~140v to ~400v&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[instructions for modification to follow]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== 12v Battery Connection ==&lt;br /&gt;
[Add details]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== High Voltage Battery Connection ==&lt;br /&gt;
[Add battery connection details]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Ampseal Socket ==&lt;br /&gt;
There are two part numbers for the large 35 way Ampseal through hole socket&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;TE Connectivity [https://octopart.com/1-776163-1-te+connectivity-1806841?r=sp 1-776163-1]&#039;&#039; (black) or &#039;&#039;[https://octopart.com/1776163-4-te+connectivity-46920685?r=sp 1-776163-4] (grey)&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Connecting Resolver ==&lt;br /&gt;
For resolver connect EXC to one side of the exciter winding and other to Ground.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Connect one side of SIN winding to SIN and other to Encoder A&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Conenct one side of COS winding to COS and other to encoder B.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Notes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://github.com/damienmaguire/Prius-Gen3-Inverter/tree/master/V2 Damien&#039;s Prius Gen3 v2 Github]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://github.com/damienmaguire/Prius-Gen3-Inverter/blob/master/V2/PriusG3_V1b_BOM_JLC.xls?raw=true Bill of Materials] (from above)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The control board takes advantage of the [https://openinverter.org/wiki/Downloads OpenInverter.org software] for control.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Bassmobile</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://openinverter.org/wiki/index.php?title=Toyota_Prius_Gen3_Board&amp;diff=836</id>
		<title>Toyota Prius Gen3 Board</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://openinverter.org/wiki/index.php?title=Toyota_Prius_Gen3_Board&amp;diff=836"/>
		<updated>2020-06-22T21:05:03Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Bassmobile: /* Soldering The Breakout Board */ grammar&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Prius Gen3 Inverter Control v2.jpg|thumb|Prius Gen3 Control Board v2]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Toyota Prius Gen3 Board is an open source project to repurpose 2010-2015 Toyota Prius inverters for DIY EV use. It consists of a circuit board and programming that replaces the original logic board in the inverter and allows independent control of it without communicating with a Prius ECU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that there is also a [[Toyota Prius Gen2 Board]] for the 2004-2009 model years.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Prius Inverter ==&lt;br /&gt;
The Toyota Prius is a hybrid vehicle. Their inverters are suitable and attractive for DIY EVs because of:&lt;br /&gt;
* Large part availability. Priuses have been made in large numbers for 20 years.&lt;br /&gt;
* High affordability. Prius inverters are available for around $150 from scrapyards everywhere.&lt;br /&gt;
* Durability. Toyota engineers appear to have made the inverters foolproof, many inputs and outputs gracefully handle fault conditions.&lt;br /&gt;
* Respectable performance. Rated for 50kW output, but tested to handle 600v, and 500+A on MG2. (MG1 unknown, Gen2 had 70% of MG2 on MG1).&lt;br /&gt;
* Ease of repurposing. Emulating the original ECU seems reasonably feasible.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Gen3 Prius (2010-2015 model years) has a variety of useful components inside the inverter package:&lt;br /&gt;
* 2 high power inverters, for the 2 motors MG1 (starter) capable of handling 250 amps, and MG2 (drive motor) capable of handling 350 amps.&lt;br /&gt;
* A DC-DC converter to provide 12v power supply to the automotive systems and accessories.&lt;br /&gt;
* A boost module to boost the 200v battery pack up to 500v, which looks to be able to function as a battery charger (wish list for future development)&lt;br /&gt;
* See this video for a thorough disassembly and explanation of the Gen3 Inverter (Timestamp ???? ): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7Vm-C4MsW8&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Control Board ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The current version as of Jan 20, 2020 is v2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As designed by Damien Maguire, the open source hardware for the control board can be purchased as both partially populated and fully populated and tested boards on his website: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-webshop/toyota-partially-built-boards-copy/prius-gen-3-inverter-logic-board-partial Prius Gen3 Partial]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-webshop/toyota-built-and-tested-boards/prius-gen-3-inverter-built-tested Prius Gen3 Prius Gen3 Full &amp;amp; Tested]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The control board is a physical replacement for the OEM Prius Gen3 inverter logic board inside the inverter. Remove the old one and replace it with the new one.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Development History ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
V1 - This board was sold tested but also as a bare logic board requiring purchase of your own components and SMD placement and soldering skills. https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-webshop/toyota-bare-boards/prius-gen-3-inverter-bare-logic-board&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
V2 - A new board source was found to be both high quality and low cost. The boards were redesigned around the inventory of parts available from this supplier. In particular the high cost of populated and soldered boards (10x the price) from the source used to make the v1 boards is so significantly lower on the v2 that there are likely no savings by building and soldering the board yourself. The circuit now has hardware to support repurposing the MG1 inverter as a battery charger, though as of Jan 20, 2020, software is still in development.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Vendors ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 - ?? List of known vendors with support?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Support ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Community support is available on the [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=488 Prius Gen 3 Inverter Logic Board Support Thread]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You are not entitled to support, purchase from a vendor who offers support if you want it guaranteed. Treat the community with respect.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Inverter Model Numbers ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{|  class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! Inverter No || Car model(s) || Logic Board No || Power Board No || Compatible 50 pin connector|| PCB size || Confirmed works with board ||  Link &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| G9200-47141 || Auris 2012, RHD || || || || || || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|G9200-47140&lt;br /&gt;
|Prius 2010&lt;br /&gt;
|F1759-47041 01&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| G9200-47180  || || || || || || || [https://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1026169&amp;amp;postcount=8 Photo diyelectriccar.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| G9200-47190 || Auris || F1759-52010 04 || || ? || || || [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=51&amp;amp;start=270#p5661 Forum Thread openinverter.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|G9200-52010||Yaris||F1759-52010 04||F1789-52010|| ||154x143mm||&lt;br /&gt;
|https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=257&amp;amp;p=5828#p5828&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| G9200-52032 || Yaris 2015 || F1759-52010 04 || F1789-52010 || YES || Long 143mm || || [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=439#p5058 Forum Thread openinverter.com] [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=51&amp;amp;start=270#p5669 Forum Thread openinverter.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| G9201-52011 || Yaris || || || YES|||||| [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=439#p5681 Forum Thread openinverter.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| G9201-52012 || Prius C || F1759-52010 || F1789-52010 || YES (presumably) |||||| [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6979#p6979 Forum Thread openinverter.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Kit Assembly Instructions (V1C) ==&lt;br /&gt;
This guide is for the assembly of version V1C of the Gen 3 board available here: https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-webshop/toyota-built-and-tested-boards/prius-gen-3-inverter-built-tested&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is based on the assembly videos by Damien Maguire. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Part 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QE-zym8iIgM&amp;amp;t=2643s &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Part 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nu5_OBOPk4s&amp;amp;t=1787s&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Soldering The Breakout Board ===&lt;br /&gt;
Solde the Ampseal socket to the the breakout board, the silk-screen indicates fitment.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are two part numbers for the large 35 way Ampseal through hole socket &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;TE Connectivity [https://octopart.com/1-776163-1-te+connectivity-1806841?r=sp 1-776163-1]&#039;&#039; (black) or &#039;&#039;[https://octopart.com/1776163-4-te+connectivity-46920685?r=sp 1-776163-4] (grey)&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 174452.jpg|thumb|alt=|none]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next flip it over and solder the 34 way IDC locking header on, notch upwards as show.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Note: Some versions of the breakout board have and error in the silk-screen that indicate orientation incorrectly, with the notch towards the bottom.&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200606 130213.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Soldering the Main Board ===&lt;br /&gt;
The main board is mostly pretty easy to solder, the one exception is the 50 way white connector. I found that putting flux on the pads and dragging solder across them, placing the connector in place and then placing the iron on the pins was the easiest. &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200619 175629.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next up I did conn 1, it can only go one way, and is a piece of cake after the 50 way connector.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 174924.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
And Conn8, again easy.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 175047.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next the DCDC convert connector, again only fits one way.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 175849.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
MG1 and MG2 Current sensor Connectors, both these are the same, the tabs on both MG1 and MG2 are at the top.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 181654.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next up the L2 inductor, it can go either way&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605_182754.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next up I did the right angled pins for the wifi module, stick the pins in the module connector and then through the board, hold it in place and flip it over.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[add photo]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cut 2 lengths of 3 pins from the header pin strips for the ISP header for programming the Atmega328P that will be used ton control the buck-boost converter.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 183933.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To enable the DCDC converter for I&#039;ve bridged over the 2 pin holes, but you can add a switch or something here, or leave it open if you&#039;re not using the DCDC to keep the 12v battery charged.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 184633.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pin header for Alegro current sensor, currently no software exists to control the buck boost, hopefully in the future this will be able to be used as a charger, this pin header is for the possible addition of a current sensor to facilitate.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605_185543.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, cut 3 pin headers and 6 pin headers off the strip, the 3 are for the single wire program interface for the STM32, the 6 is for x&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 185557.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Last up is the lock connector for the breakout board. Notch outward.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200609 094633.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Powering up ===&lt;br /&gt;
Now it&#039;s time to power up the board with 12v and test.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Green wire is +12v (pin 1) and blue 0v (pin 11)&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200608 125857.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Screenshot 2020-06-07 at 1.32.12 pm.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Checking voltages ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check for ~3.3v here on C32&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200608 124947.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check for ~5v here on C21/C20/C22/C25&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200607 134336.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check for -5v here on the little via next to CONN7 or right next to CONN2 there&#039;s a via with -5V under it.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200608 125110.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Finally the 26v &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200608 125053.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Firmware ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Wifi Module Firmware ===&lt;br /&gt;
My wifi module came with the firmware already installed, but if yours didn&#039;t follow the steps below. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Main Firmware ===&lt;br /&gt;
There&#039;s many ways of achieving this but this is what I did, using an STLink V2 clone available on eBay for a couple of £.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Connect the 3 wire pin headers to the programming device.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Swp.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:S-l1600.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
The pin labeled &#039;&#039;DAT&#039;&#039; on the board should connect to &#039;&#039;SWDIO&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The middle pin of the 3 pins on the board should go to &#039;&#039;GND&#039;&#039; on the STLink V2&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The pin labeled &#039;&#039;CLK&#039;&#039; on the board should connect to &#039;&#039;SWCLK&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Using a Mac or Linux&#039;&#039;&#039; install https://github.com/stlink-org/stlink&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Run command to write the bootloader&amp;lt;blockquote&amp;gt;st-flash write stm32_loader.bin 0x08000000&amp;lt;/blockquote&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;For Windows&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;[Add instructions for writing bootloader]&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once the bootloader has been programmed the main firmware can be uploaded and upgraded via the web interface.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A wifi network should be visible with the name &#039;&#039;ESP-*&#039;&#039; connect to it&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Screenshot 2020-06-20 at 8.33.04 am.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once connected open a browser and navigate to http://192.168.4.1 and find the update section, upload the firmware.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Screenshot 2020-06-20 at 8.28.53 am.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once this has completed you can verify by scrolling to the Spot Values section and you&#039;ll see the software version&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Screenshot 2020-06-20 at 8.39.58 am.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Atmega328p Firmware ===&lt;br /&gt;
This will control the Buck Boost module that&#039;s hopefully going to be a functioning charger in the future, it also requires a simple bit of firmware to enable the DC-DC converter.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[Add instructions for firmware]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== DC-DC Converter ==&lt;br /&gt;
The inverter contains a DC DC converter, that is used to keep the 12v battery charged using the high voltage battery. This is the EV equivalent to the alternator on a combustion engined car.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As per the assembly instructions above this needs to be enabled via the jumper on the control board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the unmodified state, the DC DC converter will operate with a main battery voltage in the ~80v to ~235v range and will require a simple modification to allow it to operate at higher voltage range, ~140v to ~400v&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[instructions for modification to follow]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== 12v Battery Connection ==&lt;br /&gt;
[Add details]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== High Voltage Battery Connection ==&lt;br /&gt;
[Add battery connection details]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Ampseal Connector ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Connecting Resolver ==&lt;br /&gt;
For resolver connect EXC to one side of the exciter winding and other to Ground.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Connect one side of SIN winding to SIN and other to Encoder A&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Conenct one side of COS winding to COS and other to encoder B.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Notes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://github.com/damienmaguire/Prius-Gen3-Inverter/tree/master/V2 Damien&#039;s Prius Gen3 v2 Github]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://github.com/damienmaguire/Prius-Gen3-Inverter/blob/master/V2/PriusG3_V1b_BOM_JLC.xls?raw=true Bill of Materials] (from above)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The control board takes advantage of the [https://openinverter.org/wiki/Downloads OpenInverter.org software] for control.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Bassmobile</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://openinverter.org/wiki/index.php?title=Toyota_Prius_Gen3_Board&amp;diff=835</id>
		<title>Toyota Prius Gen3 Board</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://openinverter.org/wiki/index.php?title=Toyota_Prius_Gen3_Board&amp;diff=835"/>
		<updated>2020-06-22T21:03:15Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Bassmobile: /* Soldering The Breakout Board */ added part numbers for the ampseal, and changed language to clarify assembly instructions&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Prius Gen3 Inverter Control v2.jpg|thumb|Prius Gen3 Control Board v2]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Toyota Prius Gen3 Board is an open source project to repurpose 2010-2015 Toyota Prius inverters for DIY EV use. It consists of a circuit board and programming that replaces the original logic board in the inverter and allows independent control of it without communicating with a Prius ECU.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Note that there is also a [[Toyota Prius Gen2 Board]] for the 2004-2009 model years.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Prius Inverter ==&lt;br /&gt;
The Toyota Prius is a hybrid vehicle. Their inverters are suitable and attractive for DIY EVs because of:&lt;br /&gt;
* Large part availability. Priuses have been made in large numbers for 20 years.&lt;br /&gt;
* High affordability. Prius inverters are available for around $150 from scrapyards everywhere.&lt;br /&gt;
* Durability. Toyota engineers appear to have made the inverters foolproof, many inputs and outputs gracefully handle fault conditions.&lt;br /&gt;
* Respectable performance. Rated for 50kW output, but tested to handle 600v, and 500+A on MG2. (MG1 unknown, Gen2 had 70% of MG2 on MG1).&lt;br /&gt;
* Ease of repurposing. Emulating the original ECU seems reasonably feasible.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Gen3 Prius (2010-2015 model years) has a variety of useful components inside the inverter package:&lt;br /&gt;
* 2 high power inverters, for the 2 motors MG1 (starter) capable of handling 250 amps, and MG2 (drive motor) capable of handling 350 amps.&lt;br /&gt;
* A DC-DC converter to provide 12v power supply to the automotive systems and accessories.&lt;br /&gt;
* A boost module to boost the 200v battery pack up to 500v, which looks to be able to function as a battery charger (wish list for future development)&lt;br /&gt;
* See this video for a thorough disassembly and explanation of the Gen3 Inverter (Timestamp ???? ): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7Vm-C4MsW8&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Control Board ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The current version as of Jan 20, 2020 is v2.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As designed by Damien Maguire, the open source hardware for the control board can be purchased as both partially populated and fully populated and tested boards on his website: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-webshop/toyota-partially-built-boards-copy/prius-gen-3-inverter-logic-board-partial Prius Gen3 Partial]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-webshop/toyota-built-and-tested-boards/prius-gen-3-inverter-built-tested Prius Gen3 Prius Gen3 Full &amp;amp; Tested]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The control board is a physical replacement for the OEM Prius Gen3 inverter logic board inside the inverter. Remove the old one and replace it with the new one.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Development History ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
V1 - This board was sold tested but also as a bare logic board requiring purchase of your own components and SMD placement and soldering skills. https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-webshop/toyota-bare-boards/prius-gen-3-inverter-bare-logic-board&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
V2 - A new board source was found to be both high quality and low cost. The boards were redesigned around the inventory of parts available from this supplier. In particular the high cost of populated and soldered boards (10x the price) from the source used to make the v1 boards is so significantly lower on the v2 that there are likely no savings by building and soldering the board yourself. The circuit now has hardware to support repurposing the MG1 inverter as a battery charger, though as of Jan 20, 2020, software is still in development.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Vendors ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
 - ?? List of known vendors with support?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Support ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Community support is available on the [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=488 Prius Gen 3 Inverter Logic Board Support Thread]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You are not entitled to support, purchase from a vendor who offers support if you want it guaranteed. Treat the community with respect.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Inverter Model Numbers ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{|  class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
! Inverter No || Car model(s) || Logic Board No || Power Board No || Compatible 50 pin connector|| PCB size || Confirmed works with board ||  Link &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| G9200-47141 || Auris 2012, RHD || || || || || || &lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|G9200-47140&lt;br /&gt;
|Prius 2010&lt;br /&gt;
|F1759-47041 01&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|- &lt;br /&gt;
| G9200-47180  || || || || || || || [https://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1026169&amp;amp;postcount=8 Photo diyelectriccar.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| G9200-47190 || Auris || F1759-52010 04 || || ? || || || [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=51&amp;amp;start=270#p5661 Forum Thread openinverter.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|G9200-52010||Yaris||F1759-52010 04||F1789-52010|| ||154x143mm||&lt;br /&gt;
|https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=257&amp;amp;p=5828#p5828&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| G9200-52032 || Yaris 2015 || F1759-52010 04 || F1789-52010 || YES || Long 143mm || || [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=439#p5058 Forum Thread openinverter.com] [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=51&amp;amp;start=270#p5669 Forum Thread openinverter.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| G9201-52011 || Yaris || || || YES|||||| [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=439#p5681 Forum Thread openinverter.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
| G9201-52012 || Prius C || F1759-52010 || F1789-52010 || YES (presumably) |||||| [https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6979#p6979 Forum Thread openinverter.com]&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Kit Assembly Instructions (V1C) ==&lt;br /&gt;
This guide is for the assembly of version V1C of the Gen 3 board available here: https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-webshop/toyota-built-and-tested-boards/prius-gen-3-inverter-built-tested&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is based on the assembly videos by Damien Maguire. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Part 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QE-zym8iIgM&amp;amp;t=2643s &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Part 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nu5_OBOPk4s&amp;amp;t=1787s&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Soldering The Breakout Board ===&lt;br /&gt;
Soldering the Ampseal connector the the board, the board instructs which side to fit it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are two part numbers for the large 35 way Ampseal through hole socket &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;TE Connectivity [https://octopart.com/1-776163-1-te+connectivity-1806841?r=sp 1-776163-1]&#039;&#039; (black) or &#039;&#039;[https://octopart.com/1776163-4-te+connectivity-46920685?r=sp 1-776163-4] (grey)&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 174452.jpg|thumb|alt=|none]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next flip it over and solder the 34 way IDC locking header on, notch upwards as show.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Note: Some versions of the breakout board have and error in the silk-screen that indicate orientation incorrectly, with the notch towards the bottom.&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200606 130213.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Soldering the Main Board ===&lt;br /&gt;
The main board is mostly pretty easy to solder, the one exception is the 50 way white connector. I found that putting flux on the pads and dragging solder across them, placing the connector in place and then placing the iron on the pins was the easiest. &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200619 175629.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next up I did conn 1, it can only go one way, and is a piece of cake after the 50 way connector.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 174924.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
And Conn8, again easy.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 175047.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next the DCDC convert connector, again only fits one way.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 175849.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
MG1 and MG2 Current sensor Connectors, both these are the same, the tabs on both MG1 and MG2 are at the top.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 181654.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next up the L2 inductor, it can go either way&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605_182754.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next up I did the right angled pins for the wifi module, stick the pins in the module connector and then through the board, hold it in place and flip it over.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[add photo]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cut 2 lengths of 3 pins from the header pin strips for the ISP header for programming the Atmega328P that will be used ton control the buck-boost converter.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 183933.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To enable the DCDC converter for I&#039;ve bridged over the 2 pin holes, but you can add a switch or something here, or leave it open if you&#039;re not using the DCDC to keep the 12v battery charged.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 184633.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pin header for Alegro current sensor, currently no software exists to control the buck boost, hopefully in the future this will be able to be used as a charger, this pin header is for the possible addition of a current sensor to facilitate.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605_185543.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Next, cut 3 pin headers and 6 pin headers off the strip, the 3 are for the single wire program interface for the STM32, the 6 is for x&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200605 185557.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Last up is the lock connector for the breakout board. Notch outward.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200609 094633.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Powering up ===&lt;br /&gt;
Now it&#039;s time to power up the board with 12v and test.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Green wire is +12v (pin 1) and blue 0v (pin 11)&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200608 125857.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Screenshot 2020-06-07 at 1.32.12 pm.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Checking voltages ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check for ~3.3v here on C32&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200608 124947.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check for ~5v here on C21/C20/C22/C25&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200607 134336.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Check for -5v here on the little via next to CONN7 or right next to CONN2 there&#039;s a via with -5V under it.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200608 125110.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Finally the 26v &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:20200608 125053.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Firmware ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Wifi Module Firmware ===&lt;br /&gt;
My wifi module came with the firmware already installed, but if yours didn&#039;t follow the steps below. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Main Firmware ===&lt;br /&gt;
There&#039;s many ways of achieving this but this is what I did, using an STLink V2 clone available on eBay for a couple of £.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Connect the 3 wire pin headers to the programming device.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Swp.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:S-l1600.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
The pin labeled &#039;&#039;DAT&#039;&#039; on the board should connect to &#039;&#039;SWDIO&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The middle pin of the 3 pins on the board should go to &#039;&#039;GND&#039;&#039; on the STLink V2&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The pin labeled &#039;&#039;CLK&#039;&#039; on the board should connect to &#039;&#039;SWCLK&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Using a Mac or Linux&#039;&#039;&#039; install https://github.com/stlink-org/stlink&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Run command to write the bootloader&amp;lt;blockquote&amp;gt;st-flash write stm32_loader.bin 0x08000000&amp;lt;/blockquote&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;For Windows&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;[Add instructions for writing bootloader]&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once the bootloader has been programmed the main firmware can be uploaded and upgraded via the web interface.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A wifi network should be visible with the name &#039;&#039;ESP-*&#039;&#039; connect to it&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Screenshot 2020-06-20 at 8.33.04 am.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once connected open a browser and navigate to http://192.168.4.1 and find the update section, upload the firmware.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Screenshot 2020-06-20 at 8.28.53 am.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Once this has completed you can verify by scrolling to the Spot Values section and you&#039;ll see the software version&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Screenshot 2020-06-20 at 8.39.58 am.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Atmega328p Firmware ===&lt;br /&gt;
This will control the Buck Boost module that&#039;s hopefully going to be a functioning charger in the future, it also requires a simple bit of firmware to enable the DC-DC converter.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[Add instructions for firmware]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== DC-DC Converter ==&lt;br /&gt;
The inverter contains a DC DC converter, that is used to keep the 12v battery charged using the high voltage battery. This is the EV equivalent to the alternator on a combustion engined car.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
As per the assembly instructions above this needs to be enabled via the jumper on the control board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the unmodified state, the DC DC converter will operate with a main battery voltage in the ~80v to ~235v range and will require a simple modification to allow it to operate at higher voltage range, ~140v to ~400v&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[instructions for modification to follow]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== 12v Battery Connection ==&lt;br /&gt;
[Add details]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== High Voltage Battery Connection ==&lt;br /&gt;
[Add battery connection details]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Ampseal Connector ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Connecting Resolver ==&lt;br /&gt;
For resolver connect EXC to one side of the exciter winding and other to Ground.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Connect one side of SIN winding to SIN and other to Encoder A&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Conenct one side of COS winding to COS and other to encoder B.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Notes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://github.com/damienmaguire/Prius-Gen3-Inverter/tree/master/V2 Damien&#039;s Prius Gen3 v2 Github]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://github.com/damienmaguire/Prius-Gen3-Inverter/blob/master/V2/PriusG3_V1b_BOM_JLC.xls?raw=true Bill of Materials] (from above)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The control board takes advantage of the [https://openinverter.org/wiki/Downloads OpenInverter.org software] for control.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Bassmobile</name></author>
	</entry>
</feed>