Re: 1965 Ford Mustang
Posted: Mon Oct 26, 2020 4:31 pm
I've been trying to get this motor spinning, at the very least in open loop mode. But no luck so far.
I have the three phases from the MG2 stage of my Yaris inverter connected up to MG2 motor in the GS300 CVT. I'm not sure which way is the right way to connect them, but there are only 6 possible ways, so, I'm not too concerned about that for now.
I have a 30V/5A power supply providing my 'high' voltage DC input - just for this initial test. It looks like this is probably not enough to actually turn the motor based on seeing other people using something similar in other threads, but it's something to get started with.
I have a precharge resistor connected straight from the power supply. So, when I turn the power supply on, it starts precharging. I then have a kilovac contactor to bypass the resistor and allow the full current through. I manually activate this contactor by connecting it to a 12V car battery. The 12V battery also powers openinverter board and holds MG2_FORWARD pin high (not sure if I need this for manual spin).
First problem I see is that the heatsink temperature immediately shoots to around 84 degrees from cold. This triggers a 'DERATE - TMPHSMAX'. I'm presuming this can't be right and that I have the wrong setting for the temperature sensor type. I just set tmphsmax to 100 for now as the temperature is stable a 84. It's not climbing or anything. So, I can fix that later.
I set udcmin and udcsw to 15V as my supply is only 30V.
I set encmode to AB, fslipspnt to 10, and ampnom to 100. I hit start manual.
Volts are on the left, amps are on the right. il1 shoots to around 480 amps and then I get an OVERCURRENT.
From searching around this forum, I saw Damien suggesting that you could get overcurrent errors like this from some bad connections on your 50way connector. So, I took everything apart again. I opened up the PCB schematic from Github and then went pin by pin, testing the continuity from the copper pin on the inside of the 50-way connector and the next-nearest component. I found two bad solder joints. One was the pin going to R88 and the other was one going to TMP. I fixed both of these and put it all back together again. I tested briefly last night and I thought the overcurrent error was fixed, but now this morning I'm seeing it again. So, back to the drawing board.
So, I'll open it back up and check again.
One other thing to note is that with the DC input disconnected, I'm still seeing the overcurrent error.
I'll check the joints on the MG1/MG2 current sensor ports as well. The MG1 current sensor definitely points notch out, right?
Note : I have not done the DC/DC resistor swap on this inverter yet. Someone let me know if I need to do this to spin this motor. I'm presuming not for now.
I have the three phases from the MG2 stage of my Yaris inverter connected up to MG2 motor in the GS300 CVT. I'm not sure which way is the right way to connect them, but there are only 6 possible ways, so, I'm not too concerned about that for now.
I have a 30V/5A power supply providing my 'high' voltage DC input - just for this initial test. It looks like this is probably not enough to actually turn the motor based on seeing other people using something similar in other threads, but it's something to get started with.
I have a precharge resistor connected straight from the power supply. So, when I turn the power supply on, it starts precharging. I then have a kilovac contactor to bypass the resistor and allow the full current through. I manually activate this contactor by connecting it to a 12V car battery. The 12V battery also powers openinverter board and holds MG2_FORWARD pin high (not sure if I need this for manual spin).
First problem I see is that the heatsink temperature immediately shoots to around 84 degrees from cold. This triggers a 'DERATE - TMPHSMAX'. I'm presuming this can't be right and that I have the wrong setting for the temperature sensor type. I just set tmphsmax to 100 for now as the temperature is stable a 84. It's not climbing or anything. So, I can fix that later.
I set udcmin and udcsw to 15V as my supply is only 30V.
I set encmode to AB, fslipspnt to 10, and ampnom to 100. I hit start manual.
Volts are on the left, amps are on the right. il1 shoots to around 480 amps and then I get an OVERCURRENT.
From searching around this forum, I saw Damien suggesting that you could get overcurrent errors like this from some bad connections on your 50way connector. So, I took everything apart again. I opened up the PCB schematic from Github and then went pin by pin, testing the continuity from the copper pin on the inside of the 50-way connector and the next-nearest component. I found two bad solder joints. One was the pin going to R88 and the other was one going to TMP. I fixed both of these and put it all back together again. I tested briefly last night and I thought the overcurrent error was fixed, but now this morning I'm seeing it again. So, back to the drawing board.
So, I'll open it back up and check again.
One other thing to note is that with the DC input disconnected, I'm still seeing the overcurrent error.
I'll check the joints on the MG1/MG2 current sensor ports as well. The MG1 current sensor definitely points notch out, right?
Note : I have not done the DC/DC resistor swap on this inverter yet. Someone let me know if I need to do this to spin this motor. I'm presuming not for now.