openinverter forum

I have added a "status" channel to the firmware. It lets you know why the inverter doesn't change to RUN mode:

I hope the labels are self explaining.

Anyone, anyone? Bueller?

I'll install this when I get my Volt inverter working. Waiting on a PCB from Slovenia...
-Isaac

I'll test this out today. My inverter (LDU) was changing to RUN mode, but wasn't closing the main contactor. Will report back with results using latest firmware.

Seems like this version (4.81) of firmware has eliminated the TMPHSMAX error, so that's good. I do get the TMPHSMAX error with firmware 4.83 from mux thread.

Interestingly, the UDC spot value shows 100.84V although two different voltmeters both agree that my battery is 84V. I did change the encoder mode from A to AB, and UDCMIN, UDCSW and UDCNOM are all set to 0. I double checked all my signal wiring, and connected an SPDT switch for F, R control. I checked my main contactor to make sure the contactor itself isn't faulty.

As soon as I provide 12v, my negative side and precharge contactors close, as they should. Error message is PWMSTUCK and status is WaitStart. When I provide start 12v pulse, inverter enters run mode and opens precharge contactor. Error message changes to CURRENTLIMIT and status changes to None.

UDC immediately drops as the precharge circuit has been opened and the main circuit has not been closed.

Hardware issue? Should i start troubleshooting the signal from Pin 6-main contactor control wire? If so how?

Software issue?

Only other notes about my current setup: I have not yet switched the middle two encoder wires as I'm waiting to see if necessary once my motor actually spins, and also the 4 wires labeled 'TEMP MOTOR' on the logic board are not currently connected to the motor.

Thanks for reporting back.
You can ignore PWMSTUCK, it is caused by the line driver. It seems to pull its input pins slightly high.

The DC contactor code hasn't been changed lately, and it works the same for all hardware variants. So I should have the same problem in Polo which I don't. So you'll have to go over your wiring.

This was the same exact problem I was having. If you get the overcurrent code you should hear the main contactor click closed and then open again. It closes, senses too much current and the opens again. In my case it’s easy to distinguish the precharge relay click and the main contactor click.

If that is if fact happening, try changing the occulim value to 2500 if it’s -2500. Also You can play with il1gain and il2gain. Try this-

Occulim -5000
Il1gain- -5
Il2gain- -5


I also find the udc value to be slightly different than my meter value for dc input voltage

I think we found the problem, it’s the inverter side of the ampseal connector. See the fried black splotch on the circuit board (See pic) seems to correspond with pin 6.

The one time I got things to work properly and shut the main contactor, I was using a contactor from Model3 (pictured). I’ve since realized these contactors get extremely hot from 12v power when closed for extended periods of time...not sure why. So, what are your thoughts guys? Any theory for how/why this may have happened and importantly, how to avoid it happening in the future??

can anyone with a fried inverter send me this Component? Or have another idea for sourcing it? Doesn’t look like an easy repair as the thing is filled with gel and not clear how to disassemble to get to the problem area

retrEVnoc wrote: ↑Sat May 09, 2020 11:34 pm I’ve since realized these contactors get extremely hot from 12v power when closed for extended periods of time...not sure why.

Tesla contactors require economizer circuits... here's some background information;

https://www.gigavac.com/sites/default/f ... al-PWM.pdf

I recommend you use contactors with built in economizers.

Edit: I've updated the wiki;

https://openinverter.org/wiki/Tesla_Model_3_Contactors

I would also recommend you discard the Tesla contactors that got hot. A failure under load would probably destroy the LDU inverter.

retrEVnoc wrote: ↑Sat May 09, 2020 11:34 pm can anyone with a fried inverter send me this Component? Or have another idea for sourcing it?

Zero EV have the Tesla LDU interface board (here)