openinverter forum

johu wrote: ↑Tue Jan 18, 2022 4:02 pm Correct, gen2 inverter needs pinswap 7.

I haven't found final syncofs for MG2 yet.

But your video say Pinswap 5! I am now totaly lost...

geduxaz wrote: ↑Mon Jan 17, 2022 4:25 pm Can this additional ground connection be good solution to all unknown problems?
Now this ground travels from VCU, that is like 1.5 meters away from inverter.

Noise will not be filtered by more grounds being connected in my experience, but certainly won't hurt based on the published pin mapping! Looks like I need to get a V3.0 of that diagram done ASAP.

Hello
, I watched with interest the posts on this topic. I work in an appliance service (TV repair department), I have some knowledge of electronics and mechanics and enough electronic angels to support me, if needed.
I would like to create a personal project with the gearbox that includes MG1 and MG2 and the converter / inverter from a Prius 2, which I have dismantled.
The idea came to me, looking for a solution to produce electricity using a PMG motor / generator, powered by water or wind. Then I thought why not use even mg1 and mg2 of a Prius 2 with car electronics made by TOYOTA, if I still have access to something like that!
I want to be supported in starting this project, which is not to be neglected, given the increasing price of electricity. I mention that I own both a Prius 1 and a Prius 2. I'm also interested in whether I can use the Prius 1
Excuse me for my google translate english

RetroZero wrote: ↑Tue Jan 18, 2022 6:13 pm Going by Damiens and Johu's video @ 1.17h, SyncOfs @ 10200 is a good start. You can fine tune from there, but should get you rolling. The pinswap obviously has changed with the updates since the video. I will post my parameters on return at the week-end.

I think you are wrong. In video he uses gen3 gearbox and that 10200 is for gen3 mg2..

From some parameter files i see same Syncofs for Gen2 Mg2 327xx

geduxaz wrote: ↑Tue Jan 18, 2022 7:11 pm But your video say Pinswap 5! I am now totaly lost...

Sorry, sorry, yes pinswap 5. Always, any firmware version!

Costis wrote: ↑Tue Jan 18, 2022 7:15 pm Hello
, I watched with interest the posts on this topic. I work in an appliance service (TV repair department), I have some knowledge of electronics and mechanics and enough electronic angels to support me, if needed.
I would like to create a personal project with the gearbox that includes MG1 and MG2 and the converter / inverter from a Prius 2, which I have dismantled.
The idea came to me, looking for a solution to produce electricity using a PMG motor / generator, powered by water or wind. Then I thought why not use even mg1 and mg2 of a Prius 2 with car electronics made by TOYOTA, if I still have access to something like that!
I want to be supported in starting this project, which is not to be neglected, given the increasing price of electricity. I mention that I own both a Prius 1 and a Prius 2. I'm also interested in whether I can use the Prius 1
Excuse me for my google translate english

Someone willing to talk, Can I use mg1 + mg2 to produce electricity?

Costis wrote: ↑Wed Jan 19, 2022 2:32 pm Someone willing to talk, Can I use mg1 + mg2 to produce electricity?

I suggest you open a new thread and draw a block diagram of what you're trying to do. That is readable internationally

Costis wrote: ↑Wed Jan 19, 2022 2:32 pm

Costis wrote: ↑Tue Jan 18, 2022 7:15 pm Hello
, I watched with interest the posts on this topic. I work in an appliance service (TV repair department), I have some knowledge of electronics and mechanics and enough electronic angels to support me, if needed.
I would like to create a personal project with the gearbox that includes MG1 and MG2 and the converter / inverter from a Prius 2, which I have dismantled.
The idea came to me, looking for a solution to produce electricity using a PMG motor / generator, powered by water or wind. Then I thought why not use even mg1 and mg2 of a Prius 2 with car electronics made by TOYOTA, if I still have access to something like that!
I want to be supported in starting this project, which is not to be neglected, given the increasing price of electricity. I mention that I own both a Prius 1 and a Prius 2. I'm also interested in whether I can use the Prius 1
Excuse me for my google translate english

Someone willing to talk, Can I use mg1 + mg2 to produce electricity?

Understand that I can use one of the two adapter boards:
1.openinverter.org Brain Board Rev 3 - community edition
2. Toyota Prius ™ Gen2 inverter controller - community edition

FIXED.
Had to remove all the wiring and move VCU back to the inverter. All overcurent errors are gone. Made some laps in the snow field.

"I still get overcurrent error while i am taking like 1 amp from battery."

Finally got to download my parameters. I tried to go for a drive but think I don't have enough voltage. Please try them out and let me know how it goes. If enough positive feedback, we could save them to wiki.

RetroZero wrote: ↑Sun Jan 23, 2022 4:52 pm Finally got to download my parameters. I tried to go for a drive but think I don't have enough voltage. Please try them out and let me know how it goes. If enough positive feedback, we could save them to wiki.

Thanks! but i have some comments on them...
Is your system stock gen2 inverter+ stock Gen2 MG2?
Syncofs is 10300. Same as mine, but i get Reverse movement on Forward direction... It is the first of two offsets, second one is somewhere around 41000....

Also i tried to downgrade 5.14 to 4.97 and now i have brick VCU and no ST-Link around. will order one but it will take some time to get it

sure it's bricked? Tried restarting and uploading again?

johu wrote: ↑Mon Jan 24, 2022 2:22 pm sure it's bricked? Tried restarting and uploading again?

Yes.
After restart no WiFi/Web interface (WiFi power is ON) and no CPU run Led.

Just got ST-Link, will try to upload FW.

geduxaz wrote: ↑Mon Jan 24, 2022 3:46 pm Yes.
After restart no WiFi/Web interface (WiFi power is ON) and no CPU run Led.

Totally blank page/network error or just parameters not showing? If the latter you can still upload a new bin file

johu wrote: ↑Mon Jan 24, 2022 4:14 pm

geduxaz wrote: ↑Mon Jan 24, 2022 3:46 pm Yes.
After restart no WiFi/Web interface (WiFi power is ON) and no CPU run Led.

Totally blank page/network error or just parameters not showing? If the latter you can still upload a new bin file

Ok, now i see what you mean.
Does wifi/web start without stm connection? Only with power to Wifi board?
I get no wifi ssid so no web.

Update- got WiFi working. disassembled WiFi connector and bent pins to get better contact.
Update2- got VCU working. Updated FW from web.

Silly question, because it happened to me. Are you testing with the wheels lifted off the ground? I did that on initial testing before putting the wheels on and my left front wheel was spinning backwards(couldn't see right hand side). Spent the afternoon trying to figure out what I missed.... Found out right side wasn't turning due to more resistance, so left side turning in opposite direction around planet gears in differential.

RetroZero wrote: ↑Tue Jan 25, 2022 8:28 am Silly question, because it happened to me. Are you testing with the wheels lifted off the ground? I did that on initial testing before putting the wheels on and my left front wheel was spinning backwards(couldn't see right hand side). Spent the afternoon trying to figure out what I missed.... Found out right side wasn't turning due to more resistance, so left side turning in opposite direction around planet gears in differential.

I am testing lifted, but also on the ground- driving in the yard. I did thought about wheel directions

kieran wrote: ↑Mon Oct 18, 2021 6:48 pm My over current issue is evading me, So I started off with some old lead acids at around 96V just to see if I could get the motor spinning, went through all of the steps in the FOC video, had it spinning but found I had to have the amp/throttle percentage down very low or id trip to OC, even in manual run mode id find myself current limited at about 40-50amps it would spin any faster then going for 60 amps it would trip, I've switched over to a couple BMW modules at about 140V and now I cant even get the motor to turn before triggering over current....Anyone have any hints on where to start?

Is this still an issue? Mine got better when i shortened VCU<>inverter cables. In original prius diagram most of the wires are shielded... I believe PWM signals make lots of noise and comunications gets distorted. Now i have like 20cm wires, but unshielded, get much better work. Before i got OC error as i touched throttle.

So does anyone have working (ridable) example of gen2 inverter + gen2 mg2? In air i can go and setup the syncofs (during the tests i go to up to 130A in manualid), but when trying to move i get almost no power. If i choose other syncofs i can drive the car but then i have directions swapped. It is much easier to test it with wheels in air and it looks it is working great, but on the ground (with load) it is different case.

I will hopefully have one soon but I'm behind you on the mechanical side

A while back I was able to successfully spin my Siemens ACIM in manual mode with the Prius Gen2 and V1 of the adapter board. I'm now attempting to connect the encoder and throttle. As always I'm having some difficulty, and would greatly appreciate any help!

Here's what I've done:

1. Solder closed the jumpers SJ1 and SJ2 on the back of the board.
2. Selected "AB" in encmode in the vcu interface
3. Wired the encoder as shown in the diagram below
4. Started the motor in manual mode, turned the output shaft by hand, and plotted the angle to see what happens

What I've discovered is that even when the encoder plug is NOT connected, the angle cycles from ~10 degrees to ~350 degrees of its own accord.
No encoder connected, no movement in the output shaft, but the angle shown in the VCU continues to change.
When I do connect the encoder, the behaviour is exactly the same.

Any ideas what might be a miss? I don't know if anybody else is using an ACIM or an encoder motor for their Prius project.

If I can just get the motor spinning under throttle control I can finally justify the most fun part of the project - tearing the ice parts out of the jeep!

no issue so far, you're seeing slip. When in manual mode set fslipspnt=0

Thanks Johu, that makes sense.

I've just gone out and tested in manual mode again.

Setting fslipsnt to 0 fixes that problem.
I'm still doing something wrong though, as now when I connect the plug and turn the output shaft of the motor there is no change in the angle value.

I disassembled the encoder plug to check the connections, looks like they're fine.

Am I missing something obvious?

I don't have HV applied to the inverter or phases connected to the motor.
I'm not using shielded wire and there's no noise at all on the angle reading, it stays fixed at the same value.

Thanks again!

Hmm.
You can use a voltmeter to do some testing of an encoder.
With it hooked up and powered on, stick the meter between a channel and ground. Turn the motor a bit and you should see a change (might go high to low and then back, but some change should be visible).
I assume SJ1 and SJ2 are for pullups?

Isaac96 wrote: ↑Sat Feb 19, 2022 1:59 am Hmm.
You can use a voltmeter to do some testing of an encoder.
With it hooked up and powered on, stick the meter between a channel and ground. Turn the motor a bit and you should see a change (might go high to low and then back, but some change should be visible).
I assume SJ1 and SJ2 are for pullups?

Thanks for this Isaac. I was away for 10 days so just got the chance to test that this evening.

I wasn't getting any change in voltage between GND and either channel.
The voltage was just 3.57v across 5V and GND, so I reckoned that was a bit low.
The motor's manual says the encoder needs between 5v and 20v, so I connected a second 12v battery directly to the encoder using a 12v bulb as a current limiter.

This worked better, and the voltage values between GND and the channels changed as I turned the motor shaft doing test you suggested.

From my understanding, I need to use the 5v and GND on the board to get encoder readings on the VCU interface.
I can't do that yet though, as the voltage supply from the board is too low for the encoder to function.

Is there any reason for the low voltage from the VCU output? Something to do with the jumpers? It's a first edition board, and I know a resistor needs to be added to these ones for the temp sensor. Is something else needed for encoder pull up too?

Thanks,

Hugh