openinverter forum

pablo wrote: ↑Fri May 28, 2021 7:20 pmdamien says dont put the HV battery in the official battery connections bc he doesnt want to go through the buck boost converter, but what if i DO want to go through the boost, i want allotta voltage, more than i got in hand. and its an ability of the inverter that id like to use once i start to get a grip. any help is much appreciated

The boost converter is limited to about 20kW.

ZooKeeper wrote: ↑Sun May 30, 2021 4:06 am

LRBen wrote: ↑Sat May 29, 2021 7:35 am I believe that is correct. You can connect the negative side of the contactors through those pins. Precharge will activate on start up I believe until the HVbus is at the desired voltage, then the main relay will activate and the precharge relay will drop back out.

Correct. Make SURE the control circuit is back-emf protected!!!!!

The control circuit for the contactors themselves correct?

SciroccoEV wrote: ↑Sun May 30, 2021 8:42 am

pablo wrote: ↑Fri May 28, 2021 7:20 pmdamien says dont put the HV battery in the official battery connections bc he doesnt want to go through the buck boost converter, but what if i DO want to go through the boost, i want allotta voltage, more than i got in hand. and its an ability of the inverter that id like to use once i start to get a grip. any help is much appreciated

The boost converter is limited to about 20kW.

Oh Damn I never noticed that detail! Might have to make some minor adjustments to take that into account. Looks like only the Positive line goes through the converter. Ground seems to be common between both.

My friend, this is a schematic diagram of an inverter ( though without a booster) . made by hand, small errors are possible. I think this will make your project even better.

EDIT by admin: this post was reported as the diagram was first posted here: viewtopic.php?f=14&t=906

dron_skm wrote: ↑Mon Jun 14, 2021 4:26 pm My friend, this is a schematic diagram of an inverter ( though without a booster) . made by hand, small errors are possible. I think this will make your project even better.

Wow. Awesome work, but would it be possible to get an English version? lol Not many of us read Cyrillic Russian.

Wow! Amazing! Thanks for putting the effort in! I'm sure this will come in handy in the future.

johu wrote: ↑Mon Aug 10, 2020 8:35 am People, stop programming deadtime on gen2 inverters! Now!

I got gen2 board and started trying to spin a motor on Sine or FOC firmware.
From the box, board has FOC firmware and Deadtime set to 63.

For the beginner it takes quite a long time to read up to this post.
Also what i felt distrubing and took long time to figure out for myself (not clear in first spinup wiki) for the first spin:
1. UDCmin has to be set from default 400V to less than UDC, that is 12V for bench test. Spent some days not getting ponnom to rise from 0.
2. Had issues with firmware update. 50% of updates fail.
3. Wiki "Do NOT program a deadtime value for the Gen2 inverter." i undestand "do not program" as do not touch this parameter, not as "set it to 0"...

Now i am stuck and cant get Fstat to rise on normal run with trottle. Potnom rises.

geduxaz wrote: ↑Wed Jul 21, 2021 10:58 amI got gen2 board and started trying to spin a motor on Sine or FOC firmware.

Well, FOC requires a motor with a resolver. They're not just different options, you should choose the correct one for your motor.

For the beginner it takes quite a long time to read up to this post.

Certainly, it does.

This is a development thread, not a service/support thread. So, lots of the details will be about how it was first designed and are not useful or needed for troubleshooting.

Also, forums in general are terrible places for archiving or reviewing content. They are good places to discuss content. Ideally what should happen is that there be good documentation and a walkthrough on what you're getting and how to get from there to something you can use. Then, every once in a while that questions are asked and answered, by virtue of someone asking, probably means the earlier documentation didn't anticipate that problem, so it should be updated.

These are the growing pains of an open source project.

Without much documentation, only skilled people can make use of the project. But if they can make use of it, they don't need to contribute to the documentation, which means unskilled people cannot make use of the project.

To me, the secret of getting any of these projects adopted by many more people is good, simple documentation.

Cars projects in general happen slowly, usually over a year, so, I don't know if we have even seen any examples of this in a working vehicle yet.

1. UDCmin has to be set from default 400V to less than UDC, that is 12V for bench test. Spent some days not getting ponnom to rise from 0.

I've been trying to stay up to date on things and grasp the firmware, that's not something I would have known either.

2. Had issues with firmware update. 50% of updates fail.

That's peculiar. Perhaps connection issues or a particular chip isn't working well? Does not sound normal. Would be expected to either work or not work, not regularly have something in between.

3. Wiki "Do NOT program a deadtime value for the Gen2 inverter." i undestand "do not program" as do not touch this parameter, not as "set it to 0"...

A better way of phrasing that might be "Setting a deadtime will have no effect on the Prius Gen 2, (unlike Gen 3 where one is required to avoid damaging the inverter), the inverter sets its own and ignores any value put here."

Perhaps why it's set to 63 instead of 0 is so that if someone makes a mistake like Damien first did when reverse engineering it, and presumed the Gen 3 was the same as the Gen 2 and adapts it to a Gen 3, they don't blow up their inverter immediately.

Regardless, it does not need to be set to zero or set to anything, my understanding is that the parameter has no effect.

If you are having trouble getting it to run, this should not be a part of the problem.

Thanks. After hard thinking i think i found an issue. It is my first time in this area and i go by trial and error...
In manual run i can spin some 3phase motor i had on hand, but in normal run mode i need an encoder connected. Without an encoder i could only get 10Hz of Fstat.

Just a quick question about the contactor signal wires. They are ground signals so all they do is connect whatever is connected to ground correct? So I should be safe to connect a couple teensy signal pins to pins 15 and 16 on the OI board and have that pull the teensy pins to ground when needed, assuming a common ground.

I'm pretty sure that works, but I just wanted to check before I find out by killing another teensy.

Yes bare bone open drain outputs it is.

johu wrote: ↑Tue Aug 17, 2021 10:08 am Yes bare bone open drain outputs it is.

Perfect thanks for confirming!

Hi there people.
So I am getting my setup in the Golf wired up for basic run in a few weeks. I have to consider 2 things though for the future.
1- to run MG and MG2, I'll need a 2nd adapter board - no big brainer there.
What happens to the second boards precharge and main contactor signals? Do I prepare for wiring them in parallel to adapter board 1?

The second question I'll post in Gen2 Charging thread.

RetroZero wrote: ↑Sun Aug 29, 2021 6:58 am 1- to run MG and MG2, I'll need a 2nd adapter board - no big brainer there.
What happens to the second boards precharge and main contactor signals? Do I prepare for wiring them in parallel to adapter board 1?

I do not know why one could not use a single board to run both in parallel. I know you cannot use them this way to power MG1 and MG2 of a Prius transaxle because the Hz of the motors are different, but see no reason why the inverter outputs cannot be parallel, if that is the goal.

I think that Mg1 resolver would not line up exactly with Mg2 and they would rotate in different directions. One has to be half the resolver parameter of the other.

RetroZero wrote: ↑Mon Aug 30, 2021 9:24 am I think that Mg1 resolver would not line up exactly with Mg2 and they would rotate in different directions. One has to be half the resolver parameter of the other.

I was referring to paralleling the Inverter outputs to increase power, but yea you need discrete control for the transaxle

ZooKeeper wrote: ↑Mon Aug 30, 2021 12:53 pmI was referring to paralleling the Inverter outputs to increase power, but yea you need discrete control for the transaxle

Ahh, was wondering about that.

I don't have this one, I have Damien's old through-hole one (never got it running, fizzled out effort-wise 18 months ago).

Suppose you're powering a single motor. What is the procedure to getting power from both of the inverter stages?

https://openinverter.org/wiki/Toyota_Pr ... in_mapping

Just pair up MVU with GVU, MWU with GWU, and MYU with GYU? I.E. Pin 9 and 4, 10 and 5, and 11 and 6?

What about the current signals, the inverter shutdown signals, temp signals, etc?

Or would this not apply to Damien's board, but only to Johannes?

Would it generally be better to load the transistors less and power up both MG1 and MG2, or, would you rather avoid catastrophic fault and perhaps leave MG1 naked and unconnected in case you blow up MG2?

I need to keep it as clean and stock standard as possible, so no parallel HV was in the plans. Since I have locked the PSD, Mg1 cannot be wired up at the same time, cause it regens so much, that the transaxle won't spin. Damien has a video with that. I also noticed that there is 400 volts produced in MG1 by simple induction, so don't want those cables lying about iether.

RetroZero wrote: ↑Mon Aug 30, 2021 8:40 pmSince I have locked the PSD, Mg1 cannot be wired up at the same time, cause it regens so much, that the transaxle won't spin.

Yes, if you're reusing the transaxle, naturally. You can't drive both motors the same speed, they're locked together mechanically and must spin at different speeds.

I meant, just using the inverter to drive a different motor.

So yup, need to plan for second adapter board and relay switch override

Got the wiring cleaned up today. Seems I have a blown precharge resistor. 3,8Mohms resistance seems way too high for the original Prius Battery Pack resistor).

What I did find somewhat alarming, is that there was no precharge ( voltage would increase slowly to around 8 volts max) ,however if I closed the Start Signal , the Main Contactor closes, and I have 200V. Is there something I have wired up incorrectly or incorrectly parameterised? I would imagine we do not want Main Contactor closing with out pre-charge.
DCSW-OUT is set to 10V

Not sure if this is the correct place to ask but...I keep having all the parameters disappear from the web page whilst trying to make changes, the controller seems to need to be power cycled then theres a 50/50 chance if it will start displaying parameters again, trying to trouble shoot an issue where I just immediately trip "overcurrent" and its becoming quite a time sink, anyone else experienced this before?

RetroZero wrote: ↑Sat Sep 18, 2021 4:48 pm Got the wiring cleaned up today. Seems I have a blown precharge resistor. 3,8Mohms resistance seems way too high for the original Prius Battery Pack resistor).

What I did find somewhat alarming, is that there was no precharge ( voltage would increase slowly to around 8 volts max) ,however if I closed the Start Signal , the Main Contactor closes, and I have 200V. Is there something I have wired up incorrectly or incorrectly parameterised? I would imagine we do not want Main Contactor closing with out pre-charge.
DCSW-OUT is set to 10V

udcsw needs to be set a bit below the lowest possible battery voltage. 10V is ridiculously low.

My over current issue is evading me, So I started off with some old lead acids at around 96V just to see if I could get the motor spinning, went through all of the steps in the FOC video, had it spinning but found I had to have the amp/throttle percentage down very low or id trip to OC, even in manual run mode id find myself current limited at about 40-50amps it would spin any faster then going for 60 amps it would trip, I've switched over to a couple BMW modules at about 140V and now I cant even get the motor to turn before triggering over current....Anyone have any hints on where to start?

kieran wrote: ↑Mon Oct 18, 2021 6:48 pm My over current issue is evading me, So I started off with some old lead acids at around 96V just to see if I could get the motor spinning, went through all of the steps in the FOC video, had it spinning but found I had to have the amp/throttle percentage down very low or id trip to OC, even in manual run mode id find myself current limited at about 40-50amps it would spin any faster then going for 60 amps it would trip, I've switched over to a couple BMW modules at about 140V and now I cant even get the motor to turn before triggering over current....Anyone have any hints on where to start?

I would double check the sycnoffs and resolver wiring.