openinverter forum

Why the displayed current value in the program does not change ?
I give it 5A * (1.5mm² cable 10 times through both sensors) = 50A

Your procedure looks correct but I think inverter will only be in manual mode briefly because pin JP2.11 is not tied to 12V. Sorry it is not stated in the test procedure I just saw.
So connect pin 11 and verify opmode=2 or ManualRun after you started manual mode

I connected pin 11 JP2 to 12V and calibration succeeded
In the next step I calibrated voltage sensor and connected gate driver and IGBT
I connected small engine on 30V to IGBT
When I entered "start 2", the engine does not rotate, I connected (pin 11 and 13 JP2) to 12V
Should I do anything else ?
Maybe connect pin 13 JP3 to 5V ? Why to 5V when max voltage for STM32 inputs is 3,3V

JP3.13 is pulled up by R45, no need to connect it. The pin it hooks up to is 5V tolerant.
By small engine you mean asynchronous motor? If so you need stm32_sine.bin not FOC. Calibration will persist.

Below is a video of the results after several months work

Why the engine has only one speed ?
Why gate driver consume 0.4A ? Is the value correct ?
Resolver consume 0,04A , Is the value correct ?
Should I increase the voltage from 28 V to 52V for IGBT inputs ?
Parameters below

I can't really tell from the video but do you have a DC link capacitor on the igbts? Please do so if not as without this you run the risk of blowing the power stage.

Your syncofs is set to 0. Did you go through the proceedure for determining the correct value? The motor will not run optimally if you don't.

I can't make resolver calibration because engine does not rotate.
I lent oscilloscope, Could you look on pictures below, maybe you will see errors

Device Status (resolver output, resolver disconnected) :
- RUN

R1 S1 S4 Device Status (resolver output, resolver connected) :
- RUN

R1 S1 S4 S2 S3
Device Status (PWM output, disconnected gate drivers) :
- manual mode
- manualid 0,05A

PWM1 TOP - yellow BOT - green PWM2 PWM3

Device Status (PWM output, connected gate drivers with IGBT but high voltage on IGBT is switch off) :
- manual mode
- manualid 0,05A

PWM1 PWM2 PWM3 Device Status (PWM output, connected gate drivers with IGBT but high voltage on IGBT is switch off) :
- manual mode
- manualid 5A

PWM1 PWM2 PWM3

Resolver output and feefback looks good, S1S4 is always held at 1.6V.
PWM output seems to try to generate full amplitude. It is a current mode controller so it always increases voltage until current set point is reached. You will only see it doing something useful with motor and some bus voltage connected.

Also read this viewtopic.php?f=2&t=611

I connected to IGBT 58V, but engine doesn't rotate
In the past, the engine rotated at one speed as see in the film at the top.
So If PWM is ok, maybe IGBT or Gate Driver is damaged
Below picture and link, how I connected IGBT to Gate Driver
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=404&p=4498#p4498 I made measurements at the Gate Driver outputs

Device Status (Gate Driver output, connected IGBT) :
- manual mode
- manualid 0,00A Device Status (Gate Driver output, connected IGBT) :
- manual mode
- manualid 0,05A
Phase 1, TOP - yellow BOT - green Phase 2 Phase 3 Device Status (Gate Driver output, disconnected IGBT) :
- manual mode
- manualid 0,05A
Phase 1, TOP - yellow BOT - green Phase 2 Phase 3

I noticed some obvious things...
You really need to twist the GE wires to make a differential connection.
Also keep the wires as short as possible. I keep GE wires under 10cm length.
Use snubber caps directly on Igbts with higher voltage.

And if you want to use 400V and serious power you want to invest in protected driver set. I have seen too much fireballs with that general driver set. Maybe the only thing I didn't see them make a bang in my car was a charger.

Did you change something while connecting resolver or phase wires. Remember resolver determins position and direction by quadrant. So if you swapped phase wires from last time it will not work.

I did not change something while connecting resolver or phase wires, only Gate Drivers began to take more current.
I have several first generation inverters after bathe in the ocean, so only: IGBT, current sensors, capacitors, power rails, housing are good.
The producer assured me that it would work, I will buy an inverter as a last resort because it's expensive, but let's go to the problem.
1. General Device Status:
- DESAT (HV) connected to 5V
- 12V, RESERVED, IN_FWD, IN_MPROT (HW), IN_START connected to 12V
- resolver connected without calibration, because I have stoped in this place
- current sensors, voltage sensor, two channel acceleration pedal calibrated
- I uploaded the parameters for Nissan Leaf from Mr. Johannes website, I changed only pwmpol = 0 = active high because I use Gate Driver from Mr. Johannes

2. Current Errors:
During Run Mode During OFF and in next step Run Mode (Current channel 1 or 2, respectively, is below 1.23 or above 2.06V when no current is flowing. Check wiring and voltage dividers)
I made measurements on Main Board V3:
IL_1 - 1,628 V
IL_2 - 1,639 V
So Why I have errors ? I don't understand.

3. I think that Gate Drivers are broken, Can you confirm my guess ?
Because:
- PWM and IGBT are ok
- The input signal to the Gate Driver does not match the output signal (Please look at the pictures of measurements below)
- The first Gate Driver take 0,6A during work - manualid 0,05
- The second Gate Driver take 0,3A during work - manualid 0,05
- The third Gate Driver take 0,6A during work - manualid 0,05
- Gate Driver at rest take 0,3A each one separately
PWM 1, yellow - TOP, green - BOT (IGBT disconnected) PWM 2 (IGBT disconnected) PWM 3 (IGBT disconnected) Gate Driver 1 output, (yellow - G TOP, GND - E TOP), (green G BOT, GND - E BOT) (IGBT disconnected) Gate Driver 2 output (IGBT disconnected) Gate Driver 3 output (IGBT disconnected)

I didn't find the answer to problem number 2 on the forum. Why I have hicurof errors ?
Regarding point 3, I found a fault in every Gate Driver.
After replacing SI8261BBC for each TOP, the signal is probably correct.
I will continue the topic of the Gate Driver fault at: viewtopic.php?f=4&t=404&p=4498#p4498
Is the 1.06uS time between enabling and disabling IGBT correct ? Before replacing SI8261BBC, Gate Driver 1 output, (yellow - G TOP, GND - E TOP), (green G BOT, GND - E BOT) (IGBT disconnected) After replacing SI8261BBC, Gate Driver 1 output, (yellow - G TOP, GND - E TOP), (green G BOT, GND - E BOT) (IGBT disconnected)

If you have current sensor errors with FOC code you need to switch them on the board or inside software. I did the same mistake when designing according to old rev2 board made for ACIM motor. There sensors were there only for monitoring overcurrent protection. But with FOC code you really need to use correct sensor on correct phase. Johannes put "pinswap" parameter in software sou we are able to swap the source.
But if you are able to swap sensor wires physicaly all the better.

Also what happened with my board the first time is i got huge currect surge and inverter signalled OClimit. Now that could be sensed by current sensors, or Fault line from drivers sensing desat or short circuit. You dont have a fault line. I think your sensors are too slow and upper IGBTs got hit by lower transistor "tail".

I really recommend you to implement some SC or desat protection.

arber333 wrote: ↑Sat Mar 21, 2020 10:01 pm If you have current sensor errors with FOC code you need to switch them on the board or inside software. I did the same mistake when designing according to old rev2 board made for ACIM motor. There sensors were there only for monitoring overcurrent protection. But with FOC code you really need to use correct sensor on correct phase. Johannes put "pinswap" parameter in software sou we are able to swap the source.
But if you are able to swap sensor wires physicaly all the better.

Also what happened with my board the first time is i got huge currect surge and inverter signalled OClimit. Now that could be sensed by current sensors, or Fault line from drivers sensing desat or short circuit. You dont have a fault line. I think your sensors are too slow and upper IGBTs got hit by lower transistor "tail".

I really recommend you to implement some SC or desat protection.

I use Main Board V3 with Board Sensor 1 and Gate Drivers Johannes and current sensors from Nissan inverter first generation
I connected current sensor 1 to IGBT first phase and current sensor 2 to IGBT second phase
When I swapped the current sensors physically and set the manualid to 0.05A the fuse went off so I think that the problem is elsewhere
What is SC ?
I bought the Gate Driver from Johannes and I have IGBT
If I damage the IGBT, I have to buy a Nissan inverter anyway I repaired Gate Drivers and I got light bulbs with different brightness at the outputs from igbts, moreover when I rotate the rotor, the light bulbs flash (Manual Run, manualid 1A, engine disconnected, resolver connected) I know where in engine is U V W based on Nissan diagrams, but I don't know which phase corresponds to U V W
I connected engine to IGBT in the following way:
U - L1
V - L2
W - L3 Is this correct ?


I would like start engine using 24V but when I set manualid on 10A the motor does not rotate but draws the set current

I am afraid to connect 300V DC when I am not sure device

Do it possible to start a Nissan engine using 24V ? How to do it ?

While trying to find the right phase order set current limit low, like 100A.
Your phase order UVW is correct. Current sensor il1 must be on phase U, il2 on phase V. When current flows from the IGBT to the motor you must see positive current.
Yes you can run from 24V, maybe just 500rpm but ok for testing. What are your current parameters?

Concerning desat protection: it is an extra layer of over current protection at gate driver level. When it closes the IGBT and sees a voltage of more than about 9V between emitter and collector, it slowly turns the IGBT back off and signals an error. When pushing your IGBTs towards or beyond their rated current that is good to have, as long as you stay below 1/2 to 2/3 their rated current over current protection does the trick.

I haven't had a single explosion in my Polo since 7 years where I allow 250A current for 400A IGBTs.

johu wrote: ↑Thu Apr 02, 2020 6:00 am What are your current parameters?

The parameters are on the first page

When I swapped the motor wires physically, engine started working
I connected as follows:
Engine U - L3 - PWM3
Engine V - L2 - PWM2
Engine W - L1- PWM1
Why ?

Below is a photo of the readings Why the current on L1 = L2 = L3 = 80A (hot wires) is so high when the supply current = 14A ?
Maybe after calibration at 400V and high current everything will be good ?
(Of course, with the engine in the car and cooling and thick wires)
What is the rated current and max current for the leaf motor ?

Well first: congratulations
The phase order is weird, is pinswap still 0?
By "supply current" you mean DC current? Basically the inverter is a buck converter, so output current is always higher than input current.
It looks good to me now. Try to test if you can spin in both directions and it makes the same sound.

Thanks
The phase order is weird, is pinswap still 0 ?
pinswap = none = 0
By "supply current" you mean DC current ?
yes
Basically the inverter is a buck converter, so output current is always higher than input current.
ok now I understand
Try to test if you can spin in both directions and it makes the same sound.
yes, I can and sound is the same

Why when I disconnect 5V from the pin Desat HW 13 on P3 the engine still works ?
I can not set inverter shutdown temperature based on the motor or inverter temperature, what is the temperature of switching off or limiting the inverter operation ?

Daniel wrote: ↑Thu Apr 02, 2020 9:03 pm yes, I can and sound is the same

Why when I disconnect 5V from the pin Desat HW 13 on P3 the engine still works ?
I can not set inverter shutdown temperature based on the motor or inverter temperature, what is the temperature of switching off or limiting the inverter operation ?

Very good. Desat pin is pulled high on board, you have to pull it low to stop inverter. The inverter will limit itself at 80°C heat sink temperature. There is no motor temperature limit, keep forgetting to add it.

My engine rotate in wrong direction and the vehicle drive backwards.
Can I swap wires only in direction switch ?

Set dirmode to one of the "Reversed" settings