openinverter forum

We are working on a boat that will be powered by a Nissan E57 motors, 160kw Inverter.

We have:
- purchased the VCU from Damian
- DIYBMS (working) 210v at PDU (can add more if needed)
- 3 contactors
purchased 48v incorrectly, and 24v incorrectly but got them working
- Flashed the VCU with 2.17 and then regressed to 2.05
- Connection to the STM module via wifi
- our potentiometer is showing changing values as we spin it.
- watched all Damien Videos
- Joined Open verter forums
- Canbus ability to read.


We forgot:
- ISA Shunt (so we turned it off on software)(ordered it already) Is this the issue????
- Any temperature readings

We Can’t Get:
- The positive shunt to close via command from the VCU.
- The motor to spin

We need:
- Help or troubleshooting to get motor spinning,
- OPINION: Since boat will need only 1 shaft, maybe some insight how to stop the differential from turning on one side.
- OPINION: which side is best to use shaft.
- Is there a place to view LOG's or Errors? maybe some input is wrong, bad temp, under volt, etc?

Best Regards,

Provide your parameter down load.

Zombie VCU? You need to use the web interface.

You need an ISA Shunt to run the motor and have the Zombie VCU control contactors.

What power supply you using?

Is 210v enough for the OEM inverter to start?

Regarding the diff question, you will want to remove the diff and weld the small planetary gears to disable the differential function, then you can use either output depending on which best fits with your drive train/direction etc.

Shunt and higher voltage as mentioned. For which side of the diff to use, you'll need to use the side that spins the prop in the correct direction when the inverter is in 'forward'. Looking at the transmission side, that axle should be spinning counter-clockwise.

I wondered about using a Leaf motor in a boat but decided I didn't want to mess with the high voltage necessary in a marine environment.

So then I thought about using the OI inverter board to remove min voltage level and use the Leaf motor at 48v. The simplistic thinking being that a 110kw motor run at 48v should still provide enough power to replace the original 20hp boat engine.

I then figured that there was probably a bit more to it than that and haven't thought about it much more since I read this thread!

Apologies for hijacking the thread, but does anybody know of what the potential pitfalls would be of trying to use a leaf motor at 48v, what other drawbacks to expect other than low power?

mugball wrote: ↑Mon Sep 23, 2024 3:25 pm I wondered about using a Leaf motor in a boat but decided I didn't want to mess with the high voltage necessary in a marine environment.

So then I thought about using the OI inverter board to remove min voltage level and use the Leaf motor at 48v. The simplistic thinking being that a 110kw motor run at 48v should still provide enough power to replace the original 20hp boat engine.

Post your parameters.

But
I would honestly suggest going with a 48v motor. It’s a bit silly to use a leaf motor in your application

mugball wrote: ↑Mon Sep 23, 2024 3:25 pm ......

Apologies for hijacking the thread, but does anybody know of what the potential pitfalls would be of trying to use a leaf motor at 48v, what other drawbacks to expect other than low power?

I managed to turn Leaf motor EM61 by connecting it to 500W Ebike chineese controler... and it spun. There was no serious power and low RPM but it stil ran!

I would suggest rewinding the motor stator to specs for 48Vrms or maybe 72Vrms to leave yourself some space. This would mean you could use any off the shelf controler also without any sensors. Propeller usage would imply encoder position sensor is not needed.

mugball wrote: ↑Mon Sep 23, 2024 3:25 pm I wondered about using a Leaf motor in a boat but decided I didn't want to mess with the high voltage necessary in a marine environment.

So then I thought about using the OI inverter board to remove min voltage level and use the Leaf motor at 48v. The simplistic thinking being that a 110kw motor run at 48v should still provide enough power

110kw / 48v = 2300 amps (+ 5-10% for losses) from the battery, contactors, cables, shunt. When the voltage dips that will go up a lot.

jrbe wrote: ↑Tue Sep 24, 2024 7:16 pm 110kw / 48v = 2300 amps (+ 5-10% for losses) from the battery, contactors, cables, shunt. When the voltage dips that will go up a lot.

Not such a great idea then. As Brat says better to use a 48v motor.

Yeah no chance of that happening. Speed will be severely limited and actual power output would probably be on the order of 48/350 * nominal kW.

mugball wrote: ↑Tue Sep 24, 2024 7:23 pm Not such a great idea then. As Brat says better to use a 48v motor.

If you use 48v as your battery voltage you will need extremely high currents to make useable power. What motor you use won't change that.
And yes, running a 400v motor with 48v is not ideal. Rewinding a leaf motor will be a challenge and still leaves you with very high currents and a one off motor.

Going the high current route gets very expensive with components able to supply, transmit, switch, read, etc. that much current.

Might be worth thinking through how to keep the battery, inverter, etc isolated if something happens.

You could also consider a bunch of contactors between 48v series sections of batteries so if something goes seriously sideways you can almost immediately drop system voltage to safe levels by powering those off.

Sorry for Delay, Please no more Thread Hijacks...

We actually paid Jochan from Fox to take a peek for an hour at it. There were still some unkowns that we don't have.

a) we don't know if the inverter (original) will run with 210v, we will bump it up to 320v next week.
b) We completely bypassed the PDM and had the main cable disconnected via pinouts for communication
c) I've attached our paramaters, I think they are the latest, as we constantly mess with them
d) We currently do NOT have an ISA shunt, but it's on order. Is this the problem? as we have it turned off in the settings
e) yes, we are using the web interface to see Paramaters and Spot Values
f) We just learned about the PLOT option, let's see if we can see something interesting
g) We don't have an easy way to see ERROR LOG. we are working on it, but, that seems would be super valuable. I'm surprised no one has built one yet

Please post any more paths or thoughts. we are all stumped.

{
"Inverter": 1,
"Vehicle": 6,
"Transmission": 1,
"interface": 0,
"chargemodes": 0,
"InverterCan": 0,
"VehicleCan": 1,
"ShuntCan": 0,
"LimCan": 0,
"ChargerCan": 1,
"BMSCan": 1,
"OBD2Can": 0,
"CanMapCan": 0,
"DCDCCan": 1,
"GearLvr": 0,
"MotActive": 0,
"potmin": 630,
"potmax": 3815,
"pot2min": 4095,
"pot2max": 4095,
"regenrpm": 1500,
"regenendrpm": 100,
"regenmax": -30,
"regenBrake": -10,
"regenramp": 100,
"potmode": 0,
"dirmode": 4,
"reversemotor": 0,
"throtramp": 100,
"throtramprpm": 20000,
"revlim": 500,
"bmslimhigh": 50,
"bmslimlow": -1,
"udcmin": 200,
"udclim": 520,
"idcmax": 5000,
"idcmin": -5000,
"tmphsmax": 85,
"tmpmmax": 300,
"throtmax": 100,
"throtmin": -100,
"throtmaxRev": 30,
"throtdead": 10,
"RegenBrakeLight": -15,
"throtrpmfilt": 15,
"Gear": 0,
"OilPump": 50,
"cruisestep": 200,
"cruiseramp": 20,
"regenlevel": 2,
"udcsw": 330,
"cruiselight": 0,
"errlights": 0,
"CAN3Speed": 0,
"BattCap": 22,
"Voltspnt": 395,
"Pwrspnt": 1500,
"IdcTerm": 0,
"CCS_ICmd": 0,
"CCS_ILim": 100,
"CCS_SOCLim": 80,
"SOCFC": 50,
"Chgctrl": 0,
"ChgAcVolt": 240,
"ChgEff": 90,
"DCdc_Type": 0,
"DCSetPnt": 14,
"BMS_Mode": 0,
"BMS_Timeout": 10,
"BMS_VminLimit": 3,
"BMS_VmaxLimit": 4.18,
"BMS_TminLimit": 5,
"BMS_TmaxLimit": 50,
"Heater": 0,
"Control": 0,
"HeatPwr": 0,
"HeatPercnt": 0,
"Set_Day": 0,
"Set_Hour": 0,
"Set_Min": 0,
"Set_Sec": 0,
"Chg_Hrs": 0,
"Chg_Min": 0,
"Chg_Dur": 0,
"Pre_Hrs": 0,
"Pre_Min": 0,
"Pre_Dur": 0,
"Out1Func": 6,
"Out2Func": 7,
"Out3Func": 3,
"SL1Func": 0,
"SL2Func": 0,
"PWM1Func": 0,
"PWM2Func": 4,
"PWM3Func": 2,
"GP12VInFunc": 12,
"HVReqFunc": 11,
"GPA1Func": 0,
"GPA2Func": 0,
"ppthresh": 2500,
"BrkVacThresh": 2500,
"BrkVacHyst": 2500,
"IsaInit": 0,
"Type": 0,
"Tim3_Presc": 719,
"Tim3_Period": 7200,
"Tim3_1_OC": 3600,
"Tim3_2_OC": 3600,
"Tim3_3_OC": 3600
}

Embraer145 wrote: ↑Fri Sep 27, 2024 4:48 am
d) We currently do NOT have an ISA shunt, but it's on order. Is this the problem? as we have it turned off in the settings

With out the shunt or sbox, the VCU has no way of knowing if precharge has completed, or if the inverter has power.

it won’t work with out one

What year is the inverter?

At some point (2023?..) the 110 & 160kw inverters changed to what we're calling gen4 (4th generation inverter even though the car is gen2) and are supposedly manufactured by Toyota. I don't believe those have been hacked yet.

More details in this thread,
viewtopic.php?p=74590&hilit=Gen4+leaf#p74590

And images of gen4 here,
viewtopic.php?p=74585#p74585

Apologies for feeding into the hijack.

"udcsw": 330 setting this to 0 and manually precharging is required to get into RUN mode. Yet this does not help as there is voltage limiting so you would need to also set "udcmin": 200 to 0 to allow POTNOM to function and run the inverter.

All of this only works if
-you do MANUAL precharge yourself.
-The inverter does not see the 210v as undervoltage inside itself