rstevens81 wrote: ↑Sun May 12, 2024 10:03 am
Have you read r100 in regards to battery boxes? For intense if the battery box is more than 30cm from the fwd/aft point crush testing is not required. So basically then it's very easy to meet. Interns of off the shelf, most OEM battery boxes will be crush tested just for completeness and transportation reasons however you'll not likely to get a certificate for one.
Best off trying to read r100 and then ask some questions to the appropriate body in your country to find out out to forfills them...if you want a done solution it's going to cost youn$$$€€€€
That is the new merkblatt.
I remember some of the rest of requirements, which were a bit contradicting...
- battery box needs to be sealed vs some form of exhaust to be provided in case of battery fire. I simply made a hole and made a rubber membrane which would be detached in case of gasses. You need to provide means to equalize natural pressure differential too. Much like membrane at the back of the car when you close the door.
Here is a list of some of the demands they made:
1. All HV cables visible need to be in orange colour (or shroud). I used orange tubing...
2. Additionaly all HV wires need to be fixed into place, not subject to vibration, i use metal clamps wrapped in some heatshrink tube
3. All HV cables going through metal walls (boxes) need to be fixed/gripped by plastic gromets so vibration would not chaff the cable insulation
4. All items need to be firmly gripped, bolted on, plastic ties etc...
5. Battery box covers need to be sealed! I am talking of O-ring or window seal.
6. Battery box needs to be insulated on the inside where battery sits. Especially the cover. I used Tesla battery separators to insulate metal under my cover. I glued it with black car gasket glue.
7. Batteries need to be firmly installed inside box. They check that by hand!
8. HV connectors on the outside the car need to be waterproof IP65 rating.
9. All connectors that can be dissassembled by hand only, need to be protected by another cover.
10. All components installed need to have visible labels or one needs to present them with a photo evidence. Guess what... i need to make a photo of my inverter cover plate!
11. They make a test drive
12. There has to be an emergency plan. Like a drawing on the HV cable routing and location of HV devices and emergency switches etc... it is called "Rettungsplan"
13. There is a demand to declare battery box content in battery cell configuration and in kW. I made stickers on the cover.
14. Maximal voltage is derived from that parameters. I surprised them when i declared lower maximal voltage they expected. I explained them i will not charge more than 4.05V per cell and that ammounts to 389Vdc. They expected 4.2V per cell.
15. Also they demand battery box has a vent on the lowest part to vent gas that may form inside box. I used 2x regular 8mm tire vents and simply bolted them from the inside out.
16. Also all removable battery box covers, battery boxes, DCDC, Charger, inverter and motor that is not welded in need to be connected to car chassis by 6mm2 discharge cable. I used braided copper cable shield from some cables that i took apart for signals. In any case you need good connection between motor - inverter- chassis because of signal immunity!
17. You need to weigh an empty car when conversion is complete. I did it at a scrap yard where they can also issue you some official receipt. Mine is now 1.450Kg whereas with old gas guzzler it was 1.650kg! Quite an improvement over all hydraulic ATX and large 3,0L V6 engine.
18. We derived max speed from motor max declared RPM divided by final drive ratio. I think it is 158km/h which is still respectable i think.