openinverter forum

Hi, I'm running the gs450h with the zombie verter vcu running on software version 2.0..the issue I have is that the oil pump controller really get hot and turns off after sometime guess it has thermo shutdown. I have not yet wired the gearbox connector to the vcu (sp+sp- etc).. The question I have is the oil pump needed to run all the time even when the car is in motion? I'm running both Mg1 and Mg2 with the input shaft locked. Is there a signal I can use to shut off the oil pump when the mechanical pump is running?

Are the bearings in good condition? They are a common fail point on these Pumps. Also I have read that running them at around 60% is sufficient.

I replaced all the bearings with new ones as I had read they are a common failure point, the bearing I replaced had no problem they seemed to spin freely

What kind of bearings did you use? China Special or quality ones from NTN/SKF/FAG/Koyo/Timken/...?

Do you have a way to measure the supply voltage to the oil pump controller? If the voltage is low the current will likely go up to run it.

crasbe wrote: ↑Tue Feb 06, 2024 5:15 pm What kind of bearings did you use? China Special or quality ones from NTN/SKF/FAG/Koyo/Timken/...?

Was not keen on the bearings i used for replacement, do you think low quality bearings are a cause of problem?

jrbe wrote: ↑Tue Feb 06, 2024 5:34 pm Do you have a way to measure the supply voltage to the oil pump controller? If the voltage is low the current will likely go up to run it.

my setup is running in between 12.8-13.8 volts,I am using Nissan leaf DC-DC converter ..does the zombie vcu run the oil pump all the time or there is a way to check the oil pressure and deactivate it and only run it when the car comes to a halt?

joeflickers wrote: ↑Tue Feb 06, 2024 7:05 pm Was not keen on the bearings i used for replacement, do you think low quality bearings are a cause of problem?

It's hard to give a definitive answer to that, but I've seen new bearings which were worse than some 30 year old worn ones

Is that voltage range verified at the controller and the pump or is that system voltage? They can be 2 or 3 very different readings.

It depends on how your transmission is setup. Info here.
viewtopic.php?t=4552&sid=9d5ee8e9fc0f47 ... db252fb23a
Quick version is the internal mechanical oil pump doesn't always pump depending on how you setup your transmission.

The controller likely runs the oil pump consistently when in forward or reverse.

My new (and old) bearings didn't spin freely. Although the pump noise dropped dramatically once I changed them. I assumed it was due to the grease inside...

Jacobsmess wrote: ↑Tue Feb 06, 2024 9:41 pm My new (and old) bearings didn't spin freely. Although the pump noise dropped dramatically once I changed them. I assumed it was due to the grease inside...

at what voltage are you running your pump and at what battery voltage?

Still bench testing but the oil pump runs on 12V and the HV setup was 112V

Jacobsmess wrote: ↑Wed Feb 07, 2024 7:11 am Still bench testing but the oil pump runs on 12V and the HV setup was 112V

im buying another oilpump controller, I'll compare the two for any indeferences

You don't really need to connect the gearbox solenoid connector at all, unless you want to be able to change between Low and High. I run my oil pump at 35% and I've never noticed any slipping. You can try turning off the PWM when MG1_spd gets over a certain point (say 1000rpm), but not sure how successful anyone has been with that. I've never felt how hot the controller gets, but it's never shut off on its own. Make sure all your connections are tight.

PatrcioEV-ATX wrote: ↑Fri Feb 09, 2024 1:57 pm You don't really need to connect the gearbox solenoid connector at all, unless you want to be able to change between Low and High. I run my oil pump at 35% and I've never noticed any slipping. You can try turning off the PWM when MG1_spd gets over a certain point (say 1000rpm), but not sure how successful anyone has been with that. I've never felt how hot the controller gets, but it's never shut off on its own. Make sure all your connections are tight.

Great,I have got myself a new oil pump controller this weekend, I believe during testing i might have been excited testing the car(first drive) and my 12volts battery was not secured firmly on the terminals, I opened the controller and it seemed the internal inductor melted and one of the phase mosfets was shorted between Drain and source.My pump speed was at 30%,when the controller got hot I blew cold air on its cooling fins after it stopped spinning the pump, after cooling down it resumed pumping but it finally stopped working last weekend

To confirm, I finally have a new working oilpump controller and pump running very smoothly as compared to the previous one, controller hardly gets hot and the pump is very quite.. I believe the previous unit must have been faulty.. Thanks for everyone for assistance and anyone else who might face similar problem. The gs450h is a beast of a motor now having done my first run