openinverter forum

Posted: **Thu Feb 13, 2020 5:21 pm**

JaniK wrote: ↑Thu Feb 13, 2020 3:47 pm Hmm. I know a place where they could laser cut discs like that damien.io just posted. Should I arrange for group buy? Postage from Finland is propably high though..

Too soon. We haven’t reached a final design yet. The spline geometry is close but not a good enough match for my liking. It might work but I’m not going to risk damaging the leaf shaft

Posted: **Thu Feb 13, 2020 5:53 pm**

MattsAwesomeStuff wrote: ↑Fri Jan 03, 2020 12:10 am
Gen2 chevy volt battery (18kwh)1000$ cad
Share your secrets, witch!

I second this. Where the hell did you find that?

Posted: **Thu Feb 13, 2020 6:03 pm**

Bratitude wrote: ↑Thu Feb 13, 2020 2:35 am
doobedoobedo wrote: ↑Wed Feb 12, 2020 8:55 pm Yes I printed the whole thing, not particularly solidly and at quite crude settings. I just wanted to see if it'd fit.
It will go over the o-ring, but I didn't push it on that far, like I said it's a snug fit, I had to knock it on and lever it off.
If I'd pushed it all the way on I would have had to destroy it to get it off. As it is the levering left dents. It's getting easier to get on and off though, as I'd expect.
Oh okay, yes I think the trough of the splines is catching the crown of the leaf, I’ll have an update next few days with it involuted as well

I'd be wary of using 3d printed plastic parts to judge if tolerances are correct.

Posted: **Thu Feb 13, 2020 6:44 pm**

Bratitude wrote: ↑Thu Feb 13, 2020 5:21 pm
JaniK wrote: ↑Thu Feb 13, 2020 3:47 pm Hmm. I know a place where they could laser cut discs like that damien.io just posted. Should I arrange for group buy? Postage from Finland is propably high though..

Too soon. We haven’t reached a final design yet. The spline geometry is close but not a good enough match for my liking. It might work but I’m not going to risk damaging the leaf shaft

Ok, I will supply with actual costs if needed. I have 2machine shops that I have used for my personal project before that I know can do lot of stuff.. just PM if something comes up.

Posted: **Thu Feb 13, 2020 7:31 pm**

damian.lo wrote: ↑Thu Feb 13, 2020 12:57 pm Hello,

I'm really happy, that Bratitude did his 3d model of spline in last days, because I was searching my way to replace my spline from Multipla 1.6 clutch disc. First I want to go to to Honda 1.8 spline, which like Zapatero said was a little to loose ( about 0,2mm) but then I was curious how will fit spline from You.
Result after wire cutter EDM is visible on pictures. Like is written above: higher diameter is ok, lower 19,22 is a little to small and was needed to brush a little with sand paper, so in next version first I will cut by wire and next make chamfer on end and clean inside on internal grinding machine. Everything will be welded inside of Rotex also with small endpoint for motor axis.
I hope this will good and will be not necessary to take one more time gearbox out.
Bratitude: thanks for Your job

This is awesome, do You think you can take some macro shots of the coupler on the shaft? would like to see the meshing of face angles, involutes, chamfers, etc. If you can backlit, so light shines, threw that helps.

19,22 so the trough of the coupler splines needs to be deeper ? We only want the faces to contact, not the top and bottom of the spines.

Posted: **Thu Feb 13, 2020 7:42 pm**

Yes, I will do all photos, which can help You, but tomorrow. Today I left this disc on my desk at work

What I saw, angle was ok, outer diameter was good, because is enough space between external diameter of Leaf spline and bigger diameter of my coupler. Problem was with smaller (19,22 between opposite hills of teeth) diameter of coupler. After wire cutting was necessary to brush with paper. My spline will be 35mm long, so after cutting will be grinded on machine like I wrote.

Posted: **Fri Feb 14, 2020 11:05 pm**

doobedoobedo wrote: ↑Thu Feb 13, 2020 6:03 pm I'd be wary of using 3d printed plastic parts to judge if tolerances are correct.

Very much this, every printable plastic demonstrates shrinkage as the part cools from the glass transition temperature to room temperature. PLA shrinks less than ABS because ABS's GTT is 105c, and PLA's GTT is 60-65c, so an ABS part has twice as "far" to shrink.

The shrinking isn't consistent in 3 dimensions: it varies according to part geometry due to the internal tensions, with larger sections of an object demonstrating more shrinkage than smaller parts. This is often shown with the bottom corners of a print lifting off the bed.

Posted: **Sun Feb 16, 2020 2:27 pm**

Hello,

Yesterday I did more photos of your spline and is how I wrote last time. In my opinion spline shape is ok. What should be bigger is tooth height - means internal diameter of spline: 19,22 +0,05. On monday I should receive spline 35mm long and grinded inside, so should fit better. Gap between outer diameter of motor spline and inner diameter of my coupler is visible now only where is light, but of course is the same all around.

Posted: **Sun Feb 23, 2020 6:01 am**

damian.lo wrote: ↑Sun Feb 16, 2020 2:27 pm Hello,

Yesterday I did more photos of your spline and is how I wrote last time. In my opinion spline shape is ok. What should be bigger is tooth height - means internal diameter of spline: 19,22 +0,05. On monday I should receive spline 35mm long and grinded inside, so should fit better. Gap between outer diameter of motor spline and inner diameter of my coupler is visible now only where is light, but of course is the same all around.

Awesome, re-reviewing the photo, looks like the depth coupler is too long and need to wifi the teeth/ adjust angle. Have you received your new piece yet? how dose it fit?

Posted: **Mon Feb 24, 2020 8:30 pm**

Hi again,

Parts I received at saturday, so I had a few days to do trials

Result is below on pictures and I think - it's okay. Like I said - we regrinded a little internal diameter but it was less than 0,05 - in practise it was only a touch

Mine spline now is welded together with Rotex, because it was sorry to felt him (!), but next version will be probably like Yours one part with rotex clutch side.
I saw, that You want to produce those parts - can You say in which metod - EDM or other? If You will have problem with EDM machining I can ask my friend what will be cost here on place.
Info: here means Poland

One more time: thanks for Your spline investigation.

Posted: **Mon Feb 24, 2020 9:33 pm**

Great work here guys
Keeping a close eye. Getting the STL file 3D printed just to have a play on my side. I have access to a machine shop so will work from the plastic template bearing in mind the shrinkage discussed. Keep it up!

Posted: **Mon Feb 24, 2020 10:52 pm**

Can you share the STL file?

Posted: **Mon Feb 24, 2020 11:27 pm**

damian.lo wrote: ↑Mon Feb 24, 2020 8:30 pm Hi again,

Parts I received at saturday, so I had a few days to do trials
Result is below on pictures and I think - it's okay. Like I said - we regrinded a little internal diameter but it was less than 0,05 - in practise it was only a touch
Mine spline now is welded together with Rotex, because it was sorry to felt him (!), but next version will be probably like Yours one part with rotex clutch side.
I saw, that You want to produce those parts - can You say in which metod - EDM or other? If You will have problem with EDM machining I can ask my friend what will be cost here on place.
Info: here means Poland
One more time: thanks for Your spline investigation.

Awesome work! Very cool to see

I’ve made an update and changed the Piece to match the rotex bolt pattern and increased the internal spline radius. Slight change in face angle. Based off the 1in long 3d printed parts, it the best fit yet.

https://github.com/angusjo/leaf-splines ... xtleaf.STL

I was thinking of getting 5 or 10 cnc’d from 3dhub. looks like it will be cheaper this way than wire edm, how much was it for yours?

Posted: **Tue Feb 25, 2020 3:55 am**

Bratitude wrote: ↑Mon Feb 24, 2020 11:27 pm looks like it will be cheaper this way than wire edm

Yeah I was quoted something like $275 per part just to EDM out the leaf splines (with the rest of the part fully machined already). And that was a through hole, blind hole was $375.

Bratitude wrote: ↑Mon Feb 24, 2020 11:27 pm https://github.com/angusjo/leaf-splines ... xtleaf.STL

Thanks! I'm going to print one up and test on my motors here too.

Posted: **Tue Feb 25, 2020 4:43 am**

slow67 wrote: ↑Tue Feb 25, 2020 3:55 am
Bratitude wrote: ↑Mon Feb 24, 2020 11:27 pm looks like it will be cheaper this way than wire edm
Yeah I was quoted something like $275 per part just to EDM out the leaf splines (with the rest of the part fully machined already). And that was a through hole, blind hole was $375.

Bratitude wrote: ↑Mon Feb 24, 2020 11:27 pm https://github.com/angusjo/leaf-splines ... xtleaf.STL
Thanks! I'm going to print one up and test on my motors here too.

Sweet, update us once u have tested.

yeah so with bulk pricing we are looking at maybe around 100$

I would like to take a small cut for all the work and time, but would amount to a cost-free coupler for myself.

Posted: **Mon Mar 02, 2020 1:28 pm**

Is there a CAD file for this

Posted: **Mon Mar 02, 2020 6:58 pm**

zippy500 wrote: ↑Mon Mar 02, 2020 1:28 pm Is there a CAD file for this

is this what you're looking for?

https://github.com/angusjo/leaf-splines

Posted: **Mon Mar 02, 2020 7:04 pm**

Thank you

Posted: **Thu Mar 05, 2020 3:56 pm**

That's great work guys.
I'd be interested in buying the Rotex one . Please let us know when you have a definite price .
I'm in the uk ,so shipping will probably be quite high !

Posted: **Sun Mar 29, 2020 1:08 am**

Some updates:

coupler/ general assembly finalized

wood mock-up cnc’d

The old ea81 Subaru engine with the bell-housing removed. I’ll graft this bolt pattern onto the adapter plate. back spacing as a result looks like it will be a good fit.

Transmission, engine bell-housing, mock up couplers/adapter and gen2 leaf

Posted: **Sun Jun 07, 2020 12:32 am**

: B807BA51-9F03-49F8-BBC4-616532AACD43.jpeg (67.26 KiB) Viewed 10196 times

Couplers have arrived. Fit like clockwork.

next up get the milled aluminum plate and angular contact bearing, then motor is ready to go.

slight change in plans, I’m going direct drive to the rear diff. starting off with the readily available Subaru r160. Then can move to it’s big brother, r180 and r200, easily. and forgo the tranny.
this gives me the added benefit of quickly swapping in a new diff when I blow one.

As such, this sets things up for dual motor awd in the future.

Quite a few highlander motors available near me...

Posted: **Sun Jun 07, 2020 6:55 am**

Bratitude wrote: ↑Sun Jun 07, 2020 12:32 am slight change in plans, I’m going direct drive to the rear diff.

Direct drive from the Leaf motor to a 4.1 ratio differential? That's going to be really bad for acceleration.

Posted: **Sun Jun 07, 2020 4:14 pm**

Bratitude wrote: ↑Sun Mar 29, 2020 1:08 am Some updates:

coupler/ general assembly finalized
AA391829-2B41-444B-851F-A45C9BBEE482.jpeg1102681E-B23E-4FB6-A1D0-3C02ECECD707.jpeg

wood mock-up cnc’d
A46B938A-02A3-436E-853B-B42A2F24DB89.jpeg

The old ea81 Subaru engine with the bell-housing removed. I’ll graft this bolt pattern onto the adapter plate. back spacing as a result looks like it will be a good fit.FEBCF976-55BC-40E5-AA66-136382BFB2D8.jpeg

Transmission, engine bell-housing, mock up couplers/adapter and gen2 leaf

A9DFB1DC-C3A8-4CC5-923E-97DB6AAF78D4.jpeg

Hey Bratitude I would love to get a Solidworks.sldprt of the adapter. Can you share?

Posted: **Sat Jul 18, 2020 3:32 am**

celeron55 wrote: ↑Sun Jun 07, 2020 6:55 am
Bratitude wrote: ↑Sun Jun 07, 2020 12:32 am slight change in plans, I’m going direct drive to the rear diff.
Direct drive from the Leaf motor to a 4.1 ratio differential? That's going to be really bad for acceleration.

Looking at picking up a 4.44, but after doing the math. Your right. It would just be a faster rout to movement at this point. but going back to the gear box now that I have a backup

Posted: **Mon Jul 20, 2020 8:47 pm**

Back it!

Hardware for new wider front lca.
thanks to UB machine and tssfab

charger v5 from damien, thank you!

Finishing up a j1772 port to bolt right into the original fuel knock location

openinverter forum

[DRIVING] leaf powered 1983 Subaru BRAT (dual outlander WIP)

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