openinverter forum

Hi

Not the usual rhythm of this forum I know but I am pulling hair out with an i3.

It won't charge on AC. It will charge on DC.

It is throwing 222AE5 Internal Charging Electronics voltage sensor short circuit to B+.

I tried a used KLE (maybe no good!) But exactly the same.

Where on earth is the voltage sensor? I can see one on this forum in the LIM circuits but on the DC side whcij rules this out.

I'm sure its a KLE fault but it seems a bit of a risk to buy a new one.

I'd love to see this sensor on a board somewhere and get some measurements

Don't suppose anyone knows what caused this? I have the same issue.

If I remember correctly, the I3 has a single-phase OBC integrated in the drive unit. If the car was ordered with a 3-phase OBC, a separate KLE was added for the two other phases. Since your message tells "internal" charging electronics, I guess there is something wrong with the OBC in the EME. Maybe a stuck relay between the OBC & B+ ?

The EME includes a 3.3 kW on-board charger (OBC) labeled “SLA_Power” at the bottom. It has 3+2 chips that perform various measurements. 1 or 2 usually fail when the OBC is destroyed due to overvoltage, and it gives this "false" error. The short circuit is not at B+, and the error description is not correct either. I'm not saying a specific error location, because the entire module needs repair or replacement, which I would have a hard time solving for you from Hungary.

Thanks for the information. It will be to try to fix the fault.

Is the OBC replaceable if I open up the EME? I would like to try to get my EME repaired instead of replace it and go through the coding etc of it. Even if I have to by a used EME I would like to replace the OBC in my EME.

Also, if I use a fast ac 7kw charger will it charge using the 3.3kw charger in the kle? Or will it fail due to the detected eme obc failure?

Hi,
Did resolved your issue ? I have a problem of charging, it charge for 29sec then it blink red and unable to charge…
Did you found a way to change the OBC in your Eme ?
Thank you for any help,

Kutato72 wrote: ↑Sat Nov 02, 2024 4:59 pm The EME includes a 3.3 kW on-board charger (OBC) labeled “SLA_Power” at the bottom. It has 3+2 chips that perform various measurements. 1 or 2 usually fail when the OBC is destroyed due to overvoltage, and it gives this "false" error. The short circuit is not at B+, and the error description is not correct either. I'm not saying a specific error location, because the entire module needs repair or replacement, which I would have a hard time solving for you from Hungary.

Hi, can you help with my 2015 rex that wont charge with fast charge 110v/220v ? It blink bleu on the socket for 29sec and charge well then it blink red and display Unable to charge …

Is it Eme Issue ? What kind of issue ? I have only two codes 222834 and 222842

Note : the car run well and charge with the rex engine

Hello!

I maybe have some interesting update on that matter.

We have an i3 here, with the same error. Sensor short to B+, etc.

So, here is some info:



1 Charging electronics 1 (KLE)
2 Charging electronics 2 (KLE)
3 EME internal charging electronics
4 Charger (charging cable or Wallbox)
5 Electrical machine electronics (EME)
6 Convenience charging electronics (KLE)
7 Charger (charging cable or Wallbox)


This is what they did to be able to charge with 3 phases. Indeed, like an earlier comment said, the EME uses 1 phase, namely L3. And the other 2 phases, L1 and L2, are being converted by the extra KLE.

So, we did some tests. I've built a kind of open charging station where I can switch off the supply per phase, and it had the CP-communication, etc.

Connect the car with L1 + L2 + L3 on:

- reduced power charging. Based on the meter which I added to the charging station, it was using L1, 15A.

Connect the car with L1 on:

- reduced power charging.

Connect the car with L2 on:

- reduced power charging. Apparently, it can charge on only L2, it just prefers L1 if there are both.

Connect the car with L3 on:

- No charging

The Type_2 charging socket is connected to KLE, and then there is a short cable from KLE to EME, which transfers L3 and N from KLE to EME.
The connector at the EME doesn't participate in the HVIL for some reason ( ), and we could disconnect the cable at the EME without any fault.

And then.... We could measure, that the KLE forwards L3 and N on that cable!

Which again showed, that the KLE works, the relays work, the fuses are ok, etc. etc.

Another very annoying "feature":

We could read the voltages and currents from KLE and EME. And for some reason, the reading from EME kind of "reflects" the reading from KLE because with L1 and L2 experiments, EME showed voltage... and with L3 only, it didn't.

... and that is, probably, where the whole problem revolves around: voltage sensor not working, or something else...

We are still investigating.

Okay, here we go...

We ordered a new-used EME, which came... we spent time and effort to put it in the car..

By the way, we did not remove the engine etc... this is really rediculous, how much effort TIS expects you to do for removing that EME.

... we did it all to find out, that the EME we bought was even more fcked up than the one we had. Later, we took it apart.. the capacitors on the OBC-board were exploded..

So, we had to start digging, no other choice...

We opened the original, "Sensor shorted to B+"-EME. Not a lot of knowledge in electronics... but hey, you know that the Germans say... at the end, everybody cooks with water...



On the left side, the AC L3 + N go in, and the left board is a kind of a filter.

The AC, after filtering, goes to the central, big board... where it quite close to the entrance point goes to a "full bridge rectifier", lower left corner.

After rectification, approximately 320 VDC go to the orange electrolytic capacitors at the upper right corner.

Then, if I understand the topology correctly, it must go to a kind of inductor, which can step-up the voltage. That higher voltage then gets filtered by all these ceramic capacitors at the upper left corner, and then, the DC exits the board.

So, sensors... After close investigation, I identified 3 chips which are a kind of complex AD-converters. Delta-sigma-modulators... 1 located in the vicinity of the AC input, one at the orange EL-caps, and the 3rd located at the ceramic caps. Besides, near the two devices near both groups of caps, there are opto-decouplers.
Based on the stuff like resistors around, we decided that these have something to do with voltage measurement.

SO, for these chips, we built special test benches (!) based on an Arduino Due to generate some excitation signals and read the reaction with the oscilloscope. Thank you ChatGPT for the code...

... and then, the disappointment came: all the chips worked. And we know, because we took one chip from the exploded EME, which didn't work.

So, in shock, I kept thinking, while my friend started to poke around with the multimeter, until he found a diode which was shorted??

It is a diode in the vicinity of the group of ceramic capacitors. I don't know how, but he found that diode.

We didn't have that diode new, but fortunately, the diode on the exploded board worked!

So, we soldered everything back, replaced the diode, placed the EME back in the car, connected everything...



And it works. And all faults were gone. As I understood from my friend, he didn't even need to delete anything. Faults gone, car charges with 3 phases...

So,, take-aways:

You need to get used, kind of, that faults/errors are not 100% precise. But that is .. experience, understanding of the systems..

Because, like mr. Kutato72 said, the faut can be kind of false. Because "Short to B+" is by far not evident.

Board level repair, great job!