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Finnaly battery charging and setting up the charger .
This BMS is awesome
And here is one quick video rambling
sorry for bad quality , I didn't mean to publish it, but the content is more important.

First real wheel spinning

Car is now finished .
I didn't do proper test drive , only 2 meters in front of garage, because of yard renovation I can't go out until the end of the week.
The car is literally like new. Im very happy and excited. Now I have to do the paper work and technical inspection to make it street legal .
Thanks to everyone who helped in some way with tips and comments (as well as the existance such forums like this one ). Especially to Damien for arduino cranckshaft sensor signal code. It is working perfect.

looks stunning. Congratulations.

Looks great. Even the same colour as mine:)

Tnx

Is that a 3d printed inlet for the charger?

Yes. I didn't get this one .

Absolutely beautiful car. I hope it drives as good as it looks.

Today it was the first drive.
Is not a big thing about high speed, i was on the short way without licence plate.
Relese only 20% (40 kw) power, but with 20kw it is speeding up
Video is not high quality , but you can se corelation speed/Kw
everything was working fine, with no glitches, but only tacho signal when I pressed throttle pedal went down, as you can see on the video .
Need to check if is signal from sensor to controller, or from controller to arduino , or from arduino to ECU .
Maybe Damien can give some advice , did you have such a problem ?

RPM should be via CAN I'm 99% certain on that car. Looks like you've got a math error going on.

Do you have the stock ECU in place still?

-Matt

I also had EMI inside my signal and when i touched throttle signal went out. Do you use actual CAN or do you simulate 58/60pulses on a wheel?
My solution was to amplify with a transistor to 12V and i connected GND lines from tacho and speedo together with chassis. Also to get tacho signal at all i needed to use 106 ceramic cap "inline" with signal. Then signal actually dipped under GND and tacho counted when it passed 0V.

I simulate 58 pulses with arduino. My car doesn't have can bus. It has OBD1. By schematic, one pin from CAN bus is missing. So my conclusion is, there is no CAN. This is an first model 97.y. , not facelift.

Controller has 4 pulses sensor with magnet attached on front axis, and has also one pin output to simulate 12v 4 pulses per revolution .
I brought this 12V signal to arduino wich is underneath passanger side cabin air filter, divided with optocupler from arduino.
Arduino was set to catch 2 pulses per revolution, but on tacho he was showing only 20% less RPM compare with zilla aplcation . That is great , so I was only change some parameter to get correct RPM.

Now I checked controler with aplication. It also show decreasing RPM when I press the throttle pedal.. It looks like some pulses are missing from sensor to zilla hairbal. Only I can do is change diferent wire path away from motor as much as possible.

That should now be one of the most reliable E39s on the road.

mfox wrote: ↑Thu Jul 09, 2020 2:39 pm I simulate 58 pulses with arduino. My car doesn't have can bus. It has OBD1. By schematic, one pin from CAN bus is missing. So my conclusion is, there is no CAN. This is an first model 97.y. , not facelift.

Do you use an actual joint hole ring or do you simulate it? It would maybe be easier to use just a collar with 2 magnets on the motor shaft. Then Arduino would translate that into RPM pulses.

See here what i used: https://leafdriveblog.wordpress.com/202 ... r-working/
I recommend you try the code and first use a function generator to simulate driveshaft magnet turns. Maybe you also want to use 106 cap to make signal pass below GND level.

If it's a petrol engine, (M54) that was the original, it will be a hall sensor for the crankshaft, not magnetic, so no zero crossing needed.

It was m52b20 engine.

According to: https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general ... sors-types
Hall, indeed.
Where are you wiring this speed sensor to?

Maybe you only need to beef up the GND connection or use a LiYcy cable with a shield. It actually works really well.
Also if you need to go across power cables make sure you cross them at a true 90deg angle. That way EMI are less.

Rpm sensor wire is shilded, But i didnt connect shild to GND. Everything is mounted, and it is useful to read rpm with zilla hairbal because you can put reverse rpm limit and max limit

My e39 is OBD1 as well. I recorded signals going to X11175 26 pin plug for the following 2 wires:

6: TD engine speed: DME control module: SW(black):
7: TI signal: injection signal: DME control module: WS/SW(white with black stripe):

I recorded both signals because i wanted to not only get the tacho going but the economy meter going too.

Below, please see oscillograms for car motion with economy meter approximately on 0l/100km , 10l / 100km and 20l / 100km. All 3 sets of signals look the same to me. Repetition rate varies because car speed was varying ~20km/hr to 60km/hr.

Car is e39 528i BV84735.

please note the TI signal is once every 3 TD signals. Signals vary between 12 and 0 volts.

i also have temperature working and fuel working. I have a console with wires from both X1175 and X11176 connected to terminals for testing. i have switches for warning lights and resistors for temp and fuel.

johnspark wrote: ↑Mon Jul 13, 2020 7:18 am My e39 is OBD1 as well. I recorded signals going to X11175 26 pin plug for the following 2 wires:

6: TD engine speed: DME control module: SW(black):
7: TI signal: injection signal: DME control module: WS/SW(white with black stripe):

I recorded both signals because i wanted to not only get the tacho going but the economy meter going too.

Below, please see oscillograms for car motion with economy meter approximately on 0l/100km , 10l / 100km and 20l / 100km. All 3 sets of signals look the same to me. Repetition rate varies because car speed was varying ~20km/hr to 60km/hr.

Car is e39 528i BV84735.

please note the TI signal is once every 3 TD signals. Signals vary between 12 and 0 volts.

i also have temperature working and fuel working. I have a console with wires from both X1175 and X11176 connected to terminals for testing. i have switches for warning lights and resistors for temp and fuel.

Thanks for sharing all this. Could be really valuable for me.

Hello ,

Today is a big day. Car is officially approved by the croatian association for technical inspection. Yust need to finish the paper work and I can get licence plate .
Here is video driving hot at hte highway. Speed is not something, i was afraid to go faster . Today limit is 60 kw and it accelarate nice.
It is 1740 kg heavy , front axis is 880kg and rear 860 . Perfect balance

And now with custom officialy licence plate

Since I get the licence plate , I passed about 1600 km and car is driving nice with no problems .
I made range test , I drove 190 km with one charging, discharged from 4.08V - 3.51 per cell . And the battery are not totaly discharged.
I also inbuilt second charger made from 4 30A power supplies. Now the total charge power is 8.5 kw on 3 phase. I also connect wires for SOC fuel LEDs indicator . It goes from 190-220 V . Video is about 210V and this is about 2/3 green round. When is full , it flashes only one or two red LED-s. But Im not charging it more then 4.08V.

Controler is set on 1000A towards motor and 750A from the battery. This is about 150 KW . Nice for daily driving.
video
https://i.imgur.com/itM1pWX.mp4