[DRIVING] The Audi 8e - Powered by Leaf

Tell us about the project you do with the open inverter
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Re: The Audi 8e - Powered by Leaf

Post by Cookie6000 »

Quick update
Got the board back. Lovely job done by Alan in www.PSRA.ie down in Rathnew with a quick turnaround too.
20200313_195704.jpg
Settled down and added the remaining components to the board including the main connector block. After that I made up the connectors for the two molex plugs and labeled up the multi coloured wires from the spare Leaf loom.
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having a problem now though after trying to get it running on the arduino IDE. I have posted it over on the specific Leaf Gen 1 Inverter Board thread if anyone can help me out.

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=179&start=60

Thanks all
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Re: The Audi 8e - Powered by Leaf

Post by Dilbert »

If it is the same as the GS450h ecu (i believe both were built at JLC), there may be issues around the two series resistors on the USB bus. The first units had 3.3 ohm resistors instead of 39 ohm resistors. I fitted some 33 ohm resistors (through-hole) and it worked fine. I think on your schematic it is R2 and R3.

Is the 5V / 3.3V power rails ok? some of the diodes were also populated backward, so they will conduct and pull down the power rail. You'll know as they will be warm to touch.
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Re: The Audi 8e - Powered by Leaf

Post by Cookie6000 »

Cheers dilbert 👍
I'll check that out later on when I'm turning the crystal as JB suggested. Can the likes of the crystal take much abuse heating, reheating while making changes?
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Re: The Audi 8e - Powered by Leaf

Post by Cookie6000 »

Ah. Persistence.
Delighted to get past this milestone. With a bit of help from co Electric Ireland ev conversion course participant James@N52E01 who is working the same problems on his 'figleaf' project, I got the mk2 evbmw Leaf VCU to talk to me over the air via Johannes' web interface. V happy considering my basic level programming skills. Thanks to Dima and arber too for their great step by step guides in the flashing of the esp8266.
20200325_211853.jpg
Looking forward now to hooking it up and seeing where it takes me. Hopefully some spinning output shafts :D
20200318_223235.jpg
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Re: The Audi 8e - Powered by Leaf

Post by Cookie6000 »

Delighted to get to another milestone. We now have a spinning motor! But before we get there, let us take a wander through how I got there.

Prior to this, there was a lot of getting the Molex plugs all created using one of the two Leaf looms I had liberated from dead cars in the breakers yard any time I visited so I could have identifiable wires.
20200314_143429.jpg
As posted in the previous log, I had managed to get the VCU all wired up and communicating as it should. The USB connection is very glitchy and getting it to connect via the IDE can sometimes mean swapping it from port to port to get it to maintain a stable connection. More the old USB cable and the ageing laptop I am using for testing then the board.

To go back a couple of weeks, I was hitting a brick wall where I would connect everything up - Inverter side and car (pedal) side but a number of things were not right.

1 - I was confusing where the 5vcc was coming from/going to. I found that the only way I could get the VCU to light up was to A: give it power from the USB cable or B: give it an external 5v power from a breadboard ps I had for setting up the FTDI and Olimex 8266 WiFi boards. As testing went on in tandem with James@N52E01 it became apparent that all was not right somewhere on my board. After some testing, I found some dry joints on the step-down regulator. My bad! :D
20200413_123350.jpg
Once I gave all the legs a bit of heat and some more solder, voila. I was able to light up the board as it should from the 12v perm feed on the car side of the board.
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It was in the midst of the testing that I then realised, that Pin 1 (GND) and Pin 3 (5vcc) are there to send 5v out to another bit of kit you may want to power like another DUE or Shield.
Molex12.png
2 I was stuck on the throttle parameters. In hindsight, this was not a big issue and I could have progressed on with a bit of tuning after but well worth finding out exactly how to calibrate another throttle pedal to work with the evbmw Leaf VCU. Here is the thread and thanks again to Thatguyoverthere for showing us the way:
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=179&start=80

3 Getting familiar with flashing the VCU and the code enabled me to take advantage of Damien's updated v1.5 VCU firmware that included precharge/main control, ISA Shunt monitoring and WiFi parameter interface via the Olimex ESP8266. So, at this point, I had everything correctly connected up on both the inverter side and 'car' side. The pedal hooked up to Ch 1, receiving 5v from the board and calibrated accordingly. 12v powering the VCU and inverter. Nothing was still happening even following the original procedure the code is based on from 8dromeda:
1. Switch on 12V power
2. Start sending CAN messages within 2s, preferably instantly
3. Finish precharging to at least 140V within 10s of switching the power on.
4. Continue sending CAN messages to control motor torque.
5. To shut down the inverter, make sure it has received the torque command 0 and
then just switch off the power supply.


It was then Thatguy.. again came in and helped out with our lack of coding literary skills :lol: He pointed out that in the latest firmware, there were a number of parameters set that needed to be met in order to have the CAN messages. In there, he mentions there is a provision to close the main contactor at 340V or higher (this voltage is read by the inverter and sent to the VCU as "inverter_volts" or something by that name over CANBUS). As a result of that, he advised to downgrade to the previous firmware rev, or change the DC voltage level at which the main contactor closes (in the software). For a quick fix, I went for the former and flashed the VCU with the v1.4 (pre Shunt/WiFi) and made the adjustments to the ThrotVal range.... first time I hit the precharge button... we have spin!

Ove the moon to have finally worked it out with some help from the forum. After a few times hitting the throttle only for it to kick out, I realised, I had been trying it on precharge only. Once I clicked the main contactor open on the Prius 220v pack, it came to life, spinning at what ever throttle level you gave it. I changed from CH1 to CH2 with the obvious noticeable differences in throttle position and response. As there was no resistance, the motor just takes off and does not settle unless you try it at low RPM and you notice it slow after getting up to a low rpm. I am guessing once I get the gearbox hooked up, with the resistance, the RPM will return after releasing the throttle.

Next step is to tweak the V1.5 firmware so I can make that work with what I have built in. One last point to note when running the version 1.5 was the web interface. I spent a lot of time flashing and reflashing the ESP8266 with Damiens firmware (after a lot of practice trying to install the in-the-end not needed Johannes web interface :D ) and successfully connected to the VCU via the ESP8266. Logged into the \admin screen, changes said, password and the name of the gui but then, we dont seem to get any info. Just remember, this was when myself and James across the water were using the v1.5 firmware that supported it. Is there a chance this does not work unless the inverter is sending CAN messages i.e. as in the v1.5 code, needs to be 340V or higher?
IMG-20200329-WA0020v2.jpeg
As it should be, working in the Bexus
IMG-20200329-WA0022.jpg
As I write this, as it usually happens, I may have answered my own question. If I get my inverter to power up and start chatting with the changes to v1.5 flashed VCU (lowering the main DC voltage to ~200v from the Prius pack I am using for testing) should the CAN messages start flowing and therefore the web interface populate with lovely dials? Am I right @JB?

Anyway, happy to have made it this far and to have been able to bounce ideas back and forth with a fellow member to fault find all the way as James managed to get his motor spinning the next day! A lot of trial and error but you can see how I got there in my latest episode. Next task... adapter plate and coupler :D

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Re: The Audi 8e - Powered by Leaf

Post by Cookie6000 »

Seem to be making plenty of hay while the sun shines and plenty of time in the workshop. I am now well in the mindset that everything needs to start going back in the car now I have a proven bench test and I understand more and more as the days go by.

Hope to have an adapter plate and coupler made up in the next week or so. More recently, here is the update from the weekend when I spent a few hours extracting the battery modules from the 24kWh pack.

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Re: The Audi 8e - Powered by Leaf

Post by RetroZero »

Love the progress!!
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Re: The Audi 8e - Powered by Leaf

Post by Bratitude »

Cookie6000 wrote: Tue Apr 21, 2020 1:13 pm Seem to be making plenty of hay while the sun shines and plenty of time in the workshop. I am now well in the mindset that everything needs to start going back in the car now I have a proven bench test and I understand more and more as the days go by.

Hope to have an adapter plate and coupler made up in the next week or so. More recently, here is the update from the weekend when I spent a few hours extracting the battery modules from the 24kWh pack.





Looks like you printed one of the old coupler design I made, how did it fit on the gen 1 ?
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Re: The Audi 8e - Powered by Leaf

Post by Cookie6000 »

Yep, interested to see how it worked out. Very tight fit as I'm guessing the 3d printing tolerances are out buy about 0.2 ish? But imagine if a broaching tool was used to the same measurements it would be bang on. In the mean time, I'm trying out the Fiat Multipla 1.5 clutch I happened upon next door from my bro. Small bit of play and you can see the valleys of the Fiat splines are a mm or so deeper. That's it on the left, Audi on the right.
20200418_170740.jpg
It will do for testing until I upgrade to something closer. How did your coupler go? Have they arrived?
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Re: The Audi 8e - Powered by Leaf

Post by Bratitude »

Cookie6000 wrote: Tue Apr 21, 2020 6:41 pm Yep, interested to see how it worked out. Very tight fit as I'm guessing the 3d printing tolerances are out buy about 0.2 ish? But imagine if a broaching tool was used to the same measurements it would be bang on. In the mean time, I'm trying out the Fiat Multipla 1.5 clutch I happened upon next door from my bro. Small bit of play and you can see the valleys of the Fiat splines are a mm or so deeper. That's it on the left, Audi on the right.
20200418_170740.jpg
It will do for testing until I upgrade to something closer. How did your coupler go? Have they arrived?
I have an updated spline design I’ll send you to try.

would be awesome to have the couple work for both generations of motors

Haven’t arrived yet but should be soon!
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Re: The Audi 8e - Powered by Leaf

Post by hugow93 »

Hey Fiachra, great work on this project.

I watched your latest youtube video yesterday and you mentioned you'd reviewed a few different contactor box designs before choosing your one. Any chance that you could share the links you found most useful?

Thanks!
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Re: The Audi 8e - Powered by Leaf

Post by Cookie6000 »

[/quote]
Bratitude wrote: Wed Apr 22, 2020 8:04 pm
Cookie6000 wrote: Tue Apr 21, 2020 6:41 pm
It will do for testing until I upgrade to something closer. How did your coupler go? Have they arrived?
I have an updated spline design I’ll send you to try.

would be awesome to have the couple work for both generations of motors

Haven’t arrived yet but should be soon!
Sorry for the delay! That sounds brilliant. Would love to try out the update for sure. The coupler I have just made up is fine to get me going. I have the EM61 measured up and in a cad format too if anyone needs as there only seems to be the EM57 bolt pattern readily available out there.
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Re: The Audi 8e - Powered by Leaf

Post by Cookie6000 »

hugow93 wrote: Mon May 04, 2020 11:54 am Hey Fiachra, great work on this project.

I watched your latest youtube video yesterday and you mentioned you'd reviewed a few different contactor box designs before choosing your one. Any chance that you could share the links you found most useful?

Thanks!
Yes, absolutely. I plan to make a short video soon on the reasons for going the route I did. Was just waiting to get the gearbox all happy spinning first before going back to the box. Here is what I have done so far. 2 x Kilovac EV200HAANA01. 1 x Arcol 100ohm precharge resistor. 1 x Siemens 3NA3244 250A 500V main fuse and the Isabellenhütte ISA shunt. All these have been listed and before by previous builders and were purchased on eBay aside from the shunt.
20200525_221736.jpg
The positive comes in top right, negative bottom right and exists the box on the left to the inverter. I am due to place a smaller fuse for aux bits alongside the main fuse there. Have some Cooper 80A fuses coming for that. Busbars made from the leftovers from the Leaf battery contactor box. Need to add in a connector block and some more bits and bobs for the signalling and 12v triggers and current sensor.

My one question for you all is on the precharge relay I am using here. The AEV6501C liberated from the 2015 Leaf pack. These Panasonic contactors are rated for 400v and 20A to handle the 380v+ 24KWh pack it came from. As I am planning on using the same pack, I am presuming this would be ok. I saw Arber discuss the lesser AEV52012 viewtopic.php?f=9&t=335 and gave it the thumbs up.
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Interested to hear your feedback so far. Aside from that, pretty happy to have my gearbox spinning now with the help of the motor. Thanks for your help all in getting this far.
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Re: The Audi 8e - Powered by Leaf

Post by bobby_come_lately »

Thanks for this - I was looking for a post that documented all those parts and this was perfect. Have gone and ordered the resistor and fuse now and contactors on the way. Just need to sort a relay for the pre-charge and get some wire to hook it all up for testing.
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Re: The Audi 8e - Powered by Leaf

Post by RetroZero »

Yes, great detailed posts. I will be using a prius battery for testing like you have on your bench. ;) How do you recharge it BTW?
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Re: The Audi 8e - Powered by Leaf

Post by Cookie6000 »

RetroZero wrote: Wed May 27, 2020 1:45 pm Yes, great detailed posts. I will be using a prius battery for testing like you have on your bench. ;) How do you recharge it BTW?
Thanks. Hope to do the same in the videos too. I'm learning as I go! On the charging, good question :lol: I did have an idea A: hooking it up to someones Prius and going for a spin, B: buying a very cheap Prius to use as a glorified charger or C: finding a charger on aliexpress that'll do the job ;)
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Re: The Audi 8e - Powered by Leaf

Post by celeron55 »

Plug the pack into mains through an incandescent bulb and a rectifier, and go check the voltmeter every hour or so? 8-)

I mean... that could work as a very slow ghetto charger on a car too. Just fit 5 of those BMW hybrid modules to get a charge voltage of about 330V and it won't even overcharge at rectified 230VAC. None of that CANbus nonsense!
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Re: The Audi 8e - Powered by Leaf

Post by Cookie6000 »

It has been a busy few weeks. Lost my job there a few weeks back so have thrown myself at the Audi to get it where it is today - spinning wheels! :D

To get things moving along while I waited for the adapter plate to arrive, I started by fabricating a plate for the Leaf throttle pedal to attach to the cast alu bracket where the old cable pedal once lived. Thinking about it after I ripped the pedal out, I could have used the likes of the Zero EV hall effect throttle module, placed it in the engine bay and actuated it with the old cable but, eagerness got the better of me :D . I reused some of the heavy gauge metal from parts of the leaf in an attempt to carry on the upcycling. Worked out really well as the corrugations and curves I used added a lot of extra structural strength so little or no twisting when you bury your foot.
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Not long after, the adapter plate arrived and was so well worth the wait! SO well finished. Was very happy with the results and happy that I made the extra effort rechecking all those measurements for the EM61 and the 01E gearbox over and over to make sure it was bang on in CAD. One last thing I was able to do at my brothers workshop next door was to countersink the motor bolts by 10mm so there was no fouling of the bell housing and I could reuse the old bolts as they would now have plenty of thread to attach. Once tidied up, it was time to throw the coupler in, attach them all up and take it for a spin!
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When spinning in neutral there was a bit of rattle but cleaner when in gear. I think the coupler is making a bit of a noise as it rests on a collar to the rear of the bell housing and the play in on the Leaf end where there is a bit of play in the Multipla splines. Not an issue. I had yet to put in any gearbox oil also so this may quieten things again.

Time then, to do what else but crane it into place in the engine bay at last. Decks cleared, Audi rolled out I got the hoist back in and lined it all up. Took a bit of messing to get it in there and a realisation I had one of the gearbox mounts in upside down :lol: but soon the lump was sitting happy where it should be, with a space of 20mm between subframe and the bottom of the motor.
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Next up, how to get the motor to support itself. Now came 2 days of templates, cutting, fitting, welding, cutting, more fitting and lots of milling but very happy with the result, especially on the RHS which was complicated by the coolant o/p being in the way where we needed to get some extra strength. Had a couple of options for this one, one being attaching from the front of the motor and coming around the side but I chose the one you see here.
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There was a lot of playing with inverter/hv junction box location also in all sorts of orientations, taking into account the reuse of the Leaf three-phase shielded cable, the i/p and o/p coolant locations, accessibility to all HV connectors when in place and the low voltage plug system. What you see here was the best by far leaving plenty of access and space for pipes to do their thing... and it looks good, like an old 1970's Audi 100 engine that leant over at 40 degree angle :D
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I spent the next day again, measuring, cutting, welding and fitting the upper frame to holding the inverter and HVJB, again, designing it best so it was as serviceable as possible, easy to remove and put back in if needed without much hassle while still being solid. That done, all was bolted down and I made up the 2 x HV cables for the inverter to HVJB, reusing the gland on the inverter which will keep it weathertight and the broad to remove any interference to the signalling in the area.
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Final jobs, lump the Prius pack into the boot, rig up a temporary contactor on switch for that, run the HV cables front to rear and into the HVJB, connect up the @EVBMW Leaf VCU into the old Audi ECU harness in the passenger footwell, wire up the contactors, hop in, cross the fingers and turn the key! *Click-Clack......Clack*.

Gingerly press pedal annnnnd.....


Woohoo! Have a load of video so will have something up soon after I take it for a wee bit of back and forth on the drive :lol:
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Re: The Audi 8e - Powered by Leaf

Post by Kevin Sharpe »

Cookie6000 wrote: Fri Jun 19, 2020 7:40 am Woohoo! Have a load of video so will have something up soon after I take it for a wee bit of back and forth on the drive :lol:
Congratulations :D
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Re: The Audi 8e - Powered by Leaf

Post by Cookie6000 »

Kevin Sharpe wrote: Fri Jun 19, 2020 7:49 am
Cookie6000 wrote: Fri Jun 19, 2020 7:40 am Woohoo! Have a load of video so will have something up soon after I take it for a wee bit of back and forth on the drive :lol:
Congratulations :D
Thanks Kevin. @Evbmw & OpenInverter made it happen :D
Here's the first roll
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Re: The Audi 8e - Powered by Leaf

Post by Stephen Darbey »

Hi Fiachra.

Did you charge the test Prius battery pack via the Celeron way or another ? As you will have gathered I'm focused on battery charging at the mo.
Great work on the Audi.

Regards
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Re: The Audi 8e - Powered by Leaf

Post by Cookie6000 »

Stephen Darbey wrote: Sat Jun 27, 2020 9:06 pm Did you charge the test Prius battery pack via the Celeron way or another ? As you will have gathered I'm focused on battery charging at the mo.
Great work on the Audi.
I didn't, no. I decided to press straight ahead to getting the full Leaf pack in there and look at the charging of the Prius pack at a later date. If I get back to a charging solution it I'll post it up here for sure.
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Re: The Audi 8e - Powered by Leaf

Post by RetroZero »

Nice work and thanks for documentation. Bravo 👏
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Re: The Audi 8e - Powered by Leaf

Post by Cookie6000 »

Took a couple of weeks off with the family after getting the Audi rolling. Staycation in the west of Ireland where rain, mist and wind was the order of the day :lol: It gave me plenty of time to plan and think about the next big step. Full Leaf pack install.

First off, the front battery box to hold 20 of the 48 modules - 24 go where the petrol tank used to be and the remaining 4, to the left of the engine bay in a separate battery box. Time to hone those stick welding skills! My brother has a Mig next door but the running back and forth to his workshop was slowing things down so I sped things up by using the stick. Back to basics. Took a little time but I made most of the mess on the cross member that ran left to right between the chassis rails to catch the rear of the battery box. Pretty happy with the results. I measured the 30x30x3mm angle built box to take into account the threaded bar nuts at either end of the 20 cell 'brick' as well as some EVA foam mat I had got my hands on to remove some innaccuracies in the fit when the battery was dropped in. When time came for the test fit of the cage, I found it was a touch too high so I dropped the cross member by 20mm with a few amendments and all was right.
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Time to put it together. I had thought of a number of different ways to build the box (local fabricators were out the door busy so went the DIY route) and found one guy in the US who had gone the same route when faced with zero alu welding skills - build the frame and bond in the aluminium walls to create a sealed tub. As you can see, I cut back the angle on the top section to allow the whole brick to be dropped in in one go so they could be all tightened up to the original tolerances, preventing swelling during operation. For the 20 cells, those added up to 680mm end to end. Iwas able to cross check against the 24 pack I still had fully assembled. In the end, I found that once you tighted the threaded bar up, there is a point where you just cannot go any further as the cell chassis bolt holes meet, creating the perfect distance. Perfect fit!... yeah... more on that later :?
20200723_090829.jpg
In the mean time, as I was waiting for the bonding to work its magic (spoiler alert - the magic sucked!) I decided it was the better time as any to strip out ALL the metal work, clean it down, prime it and give it a good dose of hardcore black! :D So worth the effort. When it all went back in, it looks the business... I swear, it looks OEM.... mwahahaha!... ah... that's a good one... ahhh. *sniff*. Well... If it weren't for the mouldy welding and you had bottle ends for glasses, it might have looked OEM :D Still. I was happy that at least for a while, rust was surpressed.
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Again, while things dried, It was time for the cooling system. For this, I ditched the Leaf circulation pump as I didn't want to start the whole rigmarole of dealing with PWM and wanted a blunt tool for the job. In step, the Bosch A0018353564 used mainly in the Mercedes Vito vans and ML series but also across VAG and Ford so, readily available for €20 on ebay and seems to be a weapon of choice as a result. The radiator, as cooling is not going to be that much of an issue and my second vice is motorcycles, came from a Honda CBF1000. It had the same hose size as the Leaf ports and was a perfect little unit for those blistering summer days we get on the sunny south east of Ireland :lol: I used all the hoses and clamps I salvaged from 2 broken Leafs for next to nothing on visits to scrap yards for other bits. I got a number of different sized Tee's to take into account the Audi coolant tank. In essence, the flow come from the motor - to the pump - leave pump into a Tee (3rd branch to overflow of coolant tank) - main feeds to top of rad - out the bottom of rad- to another Tee (3rd branch from bottom of coolant tank - back up and into the heater matrix - out of matrix - into inverter - out of inverter - into motor. I had various plans to put in a split system for winter/summer (using a BMW/RangeRover solenoid) but ended up sticking with this for now. I may delete the matrix part altogether as from what I have seen, I will get bugger all heat from the motor/inveter when I need it to demist. I have seen Damien is planning to release something that he put into the Deranged Rover so, I'll keep an eye on that for cabin heating. It's either that or swap the matrix for the Mk5 Golf heater element. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKODA-Octavi ... SwElNe2iZc. Again... I'll wear gloves and hat and thermals this winter... and keep the windows open to clear the windows
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So anyway, back to the battery... yes it fitted and I was well chuffed... something wasn't right though. I had not put on the end plates used in the normal Leaf pack that prevents battery swell and already the modules at either end had a noticeable... bulge. Balls... There just wasn't room! Or was there... I took the box out for the 4th time (don't ask). BY this time I had found a novel way of taking the 'brick' in and out of the box. Turn it on its head, yes.. protecting the terminals with foam. Anyway, with a lot of coaxing, I managed to get the end plates on and getting it to fit using the slimest of fasterners I could dig out. The results were 1mm each end I would say. Toight!
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It was about this time I found out the crap 'solution' I had for bonding the alu pannels in was just that. I took the opportunity and stripped it all apart again! THis time, it all went back together with proper panel bonding material... Job done. Battery brick in, crane in for the 20th time (which by now is a piece of piss) and that is not coming out again 8-)
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Time then for battery-box-mini. This I did in the last couple of days using just good old aluminium plate, rivets, my no favourite bonding goo and left over Leaf pack plate to make up the mounting brackets to hold it in place in the left hand side of the engine bay. Since this pic was taken, I have actually cut and extended the terminal end to make more room for the pos and neg glands for easier access, less stress on the battery terminals and overall... just less stress :D
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WHile all this was going on, I also tackled the new layout of the busbars and Leaf BMS wiring. Took a couple of nights and a lot of looking at it... for long periods of time.... before I figured out how to break apart the old arrangement into one that I wanted, similar to the likes of Shane did on the Porsche and Johannes in the Touran. I ordered some new male and female connectors to allow hooking it up to the rear back and got a lot of multicore from an old scrapped CNC machine to run front to back 8-)
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Things still outstanding?
DC-DC. Really need to get on this. I pulled out the Panasonic unit from the Leaf and I know there is a way to get it running. There is a video from EVTV floating around where they got it working a long time back. Otherwise, suggestions?

Charging. I have a Chademo and a Type 2 port to play with. First plan was to go for the Tesla Gen 2 with EVBMW v5 board but cant afford that right now but will be on the list including the CCS adapter kit and controller over on the other Tesla Gen 2 charger thread. I am keeping a close eye on the great work Isaac and Damien are doing on getting the Chademo controller working and am planning on getting a 2nd Leaf VCU to help with testing.

Thats' it for now. Hope to get started on the rear pack next week then we are good to go for a spin again :D
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Dilbert
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Re: The Audi 8e - Powered by Leaf

Post by Dilbert »

If you are looking for a charging and DC-DC solution you should consider the outlander PHEV unit, it contains both in the one package, it would fit in a spare wheel well or even in the boot, although getting the cooling pipes down there might be an issue. There's a chance it might even fit where your current lead acid battery is and then use a smaller 12V aux battery.

The DC-DC converter in this is controlled via 1 pin on the unit and the main charger is controlled via CAN. There is no shortage of these units on ebay and they often come with the main charging socket.
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