openinverter forum

xp677 wrote: ↑Wed May 27, 2020 9:17 pm Those are only suitable for AC. The nature of these units is that once triggered, they remain on until the current falls to zero. in a DC application, this would make them impossible to turn off.

In a precharge application, the current would drop to zero once the main contactor closed. However the leakage current can be a problem.

I've used SCRs in series with relays. The relay contacts are closed under zero current conditions and then the SCR is triggered.

SciroccoEV wrote: ↑Thu May 28, 2020 5:11 pm

xp677 wrote: ↑Wed May 27, 2020 9:17 pm Those are only suitable for AC. The nature of these units is that once triggered, they remain on until the current falls to zero. in a DC application, this would make them impossible to turn off.

In a precharge application, the current would drop to zero once the main contactor closed. However the leakage current can be a problem.

I've used SCRs in series with relays. The relay contacts are closed under zero current conditions and then the SCR is triggered.

In an ideal world, yes. However this would rely on the leakage being low enough to allow the SCR to open, and would necessitate the precharge completing with the "main" contactor closing (imagine if you turned the ignition key to "OFF" mid-precharge, for example).

Such events could perhaps be solved with logic (for example, opening a separate contactor elsewhere in the chain) and component choice, but the fact remains that components would have been chosen which are unsuited to the task at hand.

bobby_come_lately wrote: ↑Wed May 27, 2020 12:27 pm I'm struggling to find one of the commonly used Panasonic relays from the Leaf or Ampera for the precharge on my project - at least at what feels like a sensible price. Mostly £30-40 used from China. Is there any reason I couldn't use something like this? Not much more and it has the advantage of being new: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/solid-st ... s/0352496/

I have used AEV52012 from Nissan Leaf in a lot of applications. It is really a good small relay for HV. Dont make a mistake, it is not a contactor. It can release up to 20A. As i presented it in the beginning of this thread you can get it for like $40 or so with shipping. I consider this a fair price.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FedEx-DHL-ON ... SwnhFeeaCP

It has two magnets under silver contacts which pull down arc discharge before it fully forms.
Also i tried to use it for heater control and it worked ok. You need to keep the amps low though and use PWM so it doesnt release under full power.

I tried to use SSRs, even the mosfet version and they failed miserably when releasing under power. Dont reccomend them above 120Vdc.

I've gone ahead and ordered an AEV52012 but only place I could find one at that price was from China so it's going to take a few weeks to arrive. Surprised no UK breakers seemed to be selling them. Might have to get friendly with a local scrap yard. Miss the old days when you could just roam around and pay on the way out. If anyone knows of a yard like that in Manchester... Guessing health and safety might rule it out though.

Hi,
I'm not super happy with the stock HV cables for the LDU from Tesla, and am considering building my own bespoke cables, but there are some bit's I don't know how to source, or even what they are called. They are the connectors/Shielding terminators in the attached photos.

Any help would be appreciated.

Hank wrote: ↑Thu Jun 04, 2020 6:24 pm Any help would be appreciated.

I tried searching for terms like coroplast, screen termination, ferrule, HV crimp, etc., but didn't find anything useful

Alrighty then....$20 Amazon gift card to the first person who can accurately help me source these little buggers for use on my project.
This is driving my crazy, and I'm 90% sure these are available off the shelf somewhere.

Closest I've found so far are pass-through systems from APTIV.

Pages 16 & 17 of;
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/27874 ... PEQAvD_BwE

Thanks for the tip, couldn't find anything, but did get some good search terms.
Anyone else?

Hank wrote: ↑Mon Jun 15, 2020 4:23 pm Thanks for the tip, couldn't find anything, but did get some good search terms.
Anyone else?

I'm still looking for the crimps. In the meantime I did find this;

I have a similar problem, I need longer cables on the motor. My 70mm² cable has a larger outer diameter than the AWG 2/0. I will make stainless steel parts to make it fit.

I am also working on some adapters that we hope to sell at Zero-EV. Utilising gland components to work with 70mm2 or 50mm2 shielded cables.

Just got confirmation from Zero-EV that they expect to have these available in the next couple of weeks.
I'm on the notification list, very excited about this. Thanks @Tom91, appreciate it!

I have found an alternative for brake vacuum switch. It is variable. Anyone knows about that?
It looks robust enough... https://eveurope.eu/en/product/vacuum-switch/

I have one here but I haven't tested it yet. It is a MA-TER XV600. I bought it here for € 27.50:

https://www.ebay.de/itm/382775703794

you can buy it also at conrad electronic:
rubbercab Bestell-Nr.:583807
switch Bestell-Nr.: 583795

muehlpower wrote: ↑Wed Jul 29, 2020 9:30 am I have one here but I haven't tested it yet. It is a MA-TER XV600. I bought it here for € 27.50:

https://www.ebay.de/itm/382775703794

you can buy it also at conrad electronic:
rubbercab Bestell-Nr.:583807
switch Bestell-Nr.: 583795

OK, i see they have also a rubber cap to protect against moisture. Nice inclusion.
https://www.conrad.si/gumijasta-zascitn ... 0090-mater

I will order and test one piece. I will change standard 3/8 T fitting to accept 1/4 connection. My booster tube is for 3/8in adapter.

Hi everyone, and JackBauer...

Can anyone please post here where to get the fancy VCM casing with multiple AMP connectors front header?

I would like to know which case to use for Leaf VCM and with which connector header.

Also which wire connectors go with the header?

I cant seem to find any reference to that.
Maybe i am just not looking hard enough...

tnx

Arber

arber333 wrote: ↑Tue Aug 04, 2020 6:47 pm Hi everyone, and JackBauer...

Can anyone please post here where to get the fancy VCM casing with multiple AMP connectors front header?

Maybe i am just not looking hard enough...

Cinch enclosures : https://www.mouser.co.uk/new/cinch/cinch-modice/

TE Deutsch enclosures : https://www.te.com/usa-en/products/conn ... =pgp-story

tom91 wrote: ↑Tue Aug 04, 2020 6:50 pm Cinch enclosures : https://www.mouser.co.uk/new/cinch/cinch-modice/

TE Deutsch enclosures : https://www.te.com/usa-en/products/conn ... =pgp-story

OK, i think i am close. On Leaf board i see 20pin and 12pin header. I see one header that i can fit, maybe.

I found this header: https://www.newark.com/cinch-connectivi ... p/12AC5392

And this enclosure: https://www.newark.com/cinch-connectivi ... dp/53W2507

Would that be the one for Leav VCU, or Chademo VCU?

Just look at the boms on the Leaf and Gs450h github repos.

Hank wrote: ↑Thu Jun 04, 2020 6:24 pm I'm not super happy with the stock HV cables for the LDU from Tesla, and am considering building my own bespoke cables, but there are some bit's I don't know how to source, or even what they are called. They are the connectors/Shielding terminators in the attached photos.

I couldn't find anything and decided not to wait any longer

viewtopic.php?f=11&t=37&p=15806#p15806

Kevin Sharpe wrote: ↑Fri May 22, 2020 6:32 pm

konstantin8818 wrote: ↑Fri May 22, 2020 5:37 pm So I need to attache them back?

If you run a contactor that requires an economizer without one then you'll burn out the coil.

We had the Tesla Model S/X contactors on the bench this week. I can confirm they consume ~2.5A @ 13V and get very hot. They require an economizer.

So to test if you need economiser on random contactor, just run it for a while on the table and check if its hot?
And check amps.

Is it that easy?

JaniK wrote: ↑Sat Aug 29, 2020 3:58 pm So to test if you need economiser on random contactor, just run it for a while on the table and check if its hot?
And check amps.

Is it that easy?

Any contactor drawing anything more then 1 amp usually will run hot, so thats the first tale tell sign.

tom91 wrote: ↑Sat Aug 29, 2020 4:15 pm

JaniK wrote: ↑Sat Aug 29, 2020 3:58 pm So to test if you need economiser on random contactor, just run it for a while on the table and check if its hot?
And check amps.

Is it that easy?

Any contactor drawing anything more then 1 amp usually will run hot, so thats the first tale tell sign.

Went ahead and tested Ford Focus Electric 23kWh contactors.
Main HVBAT+ TE 2098952-2

It Will disconnect at 1.2V0.3A
Reconnect happens at 6.6V1.56A
Draws 2.7amps at 11v stepping down from 12V el-cheapo.

When adjusting the voltage down to point where current is 1A, it will take 4.2v

Charge/precharge contactors TE 2138551-3 draw
0,7A@12V
0,35A@6V
Cutoff 0,16A@2.8V
Cutin 0,28A@4.8V


Measured with a DIY adjustable 1-12V power supply made with about second cheapest semi ready parts on ebay, so not the most accurate but still wanted to share.