openinverter forum

Don't suppose you know much about the electric power steering? Is there a separate controller? What signals it takes? The zafira pump is mega loud I'd like to replace it in the future and the later model beetles had the electric power steering rack.

Edit found a document, looks the there's a failsafe more in any case, but I think it might just work, if I'm lucky.

Don't use Arduino ide with their serial terminal.

Use visual studio with a plugin.

Bigpie wrote: ↑Thu Sep 23, 2021 4:34 pm Don't suppose you know much about the electric power steering? Is there a separate controller? What signals it takes? The zafira pump is mega loud I'd like to replace it in the future and the later model beetles had the electric power steering rack.

Edit found a document, looks the there's a failsafe more in any case, but I think it might just work, if I'm lucky.
SSP_317.pdf

Yes it certainly runs with no CAN messages going to it, just seems to need some enable signal. But never dug deeper because it worked. Once you produce the CAN message that specified motor RPM it has to be above like 600 rpm or otherwise power steering is disabled.

The document mentions a fail safe operation I'll have to pick one up when I get some other jobs checked off and see what it does. I already have messages from ABS and steering angle sensor on the canbus

Just a quick cross reference: viewtopic.php?p=32075#p32075

Drove 1500 km this weekend

Got the heater bolted to the transmission today, now I'm just lacking an expansion bottle.

Wired up a bespoke output of the VCU that powers up the Chinese inverters control electronics and thereby enables the heater (or whatever is plugged into the outlet).

I programmed the VCU with a simple On/Off parameter that enables and disables the inverter and also added some extra logic:
- Only start inverter when handbrake is OFF (see below), DC switch is on, outside temperature is below a given threshold and battery SoC is above another threshold
- Also start inverter when DC switch is on and "Force On" is selected

I'm switching it off when the hand brake comes on because likely you will turn off the car when putting on the handbrake and thereby I avoid interrupting current with the main relays.

I also need to find out whether the inverter overheats during standstill, I'm only running the fan at 5V.

Somebody asked why I need AC to run the heater. There are 2 reasons: the integrated thermo switch is not DC rated and the integrated pump is run by an AC motor

Used the heater when driving 10 km near freezing temps. Turns out the Chinese inverter overheats. Smells like chokes.

johu wrote: ↑Mon Oct 11, 2021 8:00 am Used the heater when driving 10 km near freezing temps. Turns out the Chinese inverter overheats. Smells like chokes.

I would think CN inverter will soon bite the dust. It is open to elements...
My idea and you may implement it as well .
- Get a dishwasher heater 1800W 230Vac and remove 230Vac thermostat switch. Make HV connection by flexible wires and isolate it electricaly however you like (wool, packing material, plastic tubes...)
- Use a 12V DC relay rated at least 10A 400Vdc
- get a simple 12V Bosch coolant pump
- Use silicon hoses with 85deg thermostat to open relay

A switch inside cabin which closes DC relay and starts coolant pump. At 400Vdc Heater will provide nearly 5Kw of power, so it needs to be protected by thermostat after heater. Just in case i would also use at least 3L additional coolant tank inline. Maybe just simple sealed inox tube with 18mm inlet and outlet welded to it.

EDIT: One thing i consider above all else! DO NOT make the heater operate bypassing DC contactor. Safety.

If you have a 300V-400V system just buy a heater from an OEM electric car. Much easier and more reliable, and you can get them for less than 200€ on Ebay. I really can't figure out a reason not to.

Yes I'm starting to think so, too. The Chinese inverter + electric 230V heater cost the same. Of course the inverter offers the additional value of being able to power something. Maybe I should rather attach it via CHAdeMO.

I will try to use a dishwasher flow heating element(15EUR) and run it on the HV battery 430V DC, a 12V circulation pump and a thermostat. I have used a similar solution as a pool heater, connected to solar panels that gave about 580V DC. https://www.ebay.de/itm/332717880553?ha ... SwjhZgSMov

Engine block heater screwed into PCV pipe works too

ZooKeeper wrote: ↑Wed Oct 13, 2021 7:24 pm Engine block heater screwed into PCV pipe works too

Yep. Something like this includes water pump.:

https://www.puuilo.fi/arctic-motor-kone ... noEALw_wcB

Sorry it is in Finland, I just looked something I can pickup 3km from home.

If you want one of these, I can arrange the shipping part.

Yes that's what I've got, only the 2 kW version. It doesn't cut it. Thanks anyway

johu wrote: ↑Thu Oct 14, 2021 6:32 pm Yes that's what I've got, only the 2 kW version. It doesn't cut it. Thanks anyway

Of course it was the same, how did I miss that.
"insert facepalm emoji"

Testing day today I tested the modified FW controller all day with not too promising results which means a lot of vibration. So eventually I decided to rather spend time tuning the current FW controller. I did all this is second gear in order to build up revs but not too much speed. Of course that also means more wheel torque.

Now while I was at it I chased another bug that I think is connected to the DC current regen controller. When it hits the limit it gives a really hard bang. That's already disturbing in 3rd gear, guess how much more disturbing it is in 2nd.

So I stopped, adjusted some parameters and took off to try again. But wait, whats that growling noise when accelerating? I pulled over into a side road and as I turned the steering wheel to go back home a nasty sound of something locking up (or so) emerged from the passenger side (right side that is in Germany). Ok, driveshaft snapped or something I though. Since it was quite dark I decided to walk home like 1 km and then return with my other car, tools and a headlight.

Alright, back at the spot I open the hood and find the motor hanging down deeply only supported by the two remaining transmission mounting and maybe the aero plastic. The Nissan motor mount had sheered off. Sheeet. Think!
Now the next part is a bit superstitious. Just last week I did a clean out where I go through all my stuff and throw out everything I consider useless. I also found my second Leaf motor mount, twisted it in my hand and was about to take it out for the salvager. But then I though, na, lets keep it, who knows... Maybe we can uncontinuously look into the future or it was just a rotten bit of luck.

I thought of all that while looking at my snapped motor mount. Next I took my cheesy jack and lifted the motor back up. Then I unmounted the motor mount, took it back home, swapped the Nissan bracket, drove back down, put it back in. I think I earned some street cred with that.

download/file.php?id=469&mode=view

It looks like your mount has too much leverage on that piece. Add some support from the mount to the top of the inverter to avoid bending it.

Yes, that could be true. Already thought about throwing out the VW motor mount and replace it by a rubber mount and a Z-profile. Anyway, support could just be a relatively small alu profile from the inverter to the mount, right?

Based on the photo I would cut and drill a stiff piece of steel or aluminium (let's say at least 2mm or 3mm thick, respectively, but even a thinner piece would definitely be significantly better than nothing) that connects the two bolts on top of the mount to the three PDM mounting holes on the inverter. They look to be about level from each other.

celeron55 wrote: ↑Fri Oct 22, 2021 5:51 pm Based on the photo I would cut and drill a stiff piece of steel or aluminium (let's say at least 2mm or 3mm thick, respectively, but even a thinner piece would definitely be significantly better than nothing) that connects the two bolts on top of the mount to the three PDM mounting holes on the inverter. They look to be about level from each other.

How about that? Not going through all 3 holes but then the holes are connected on top by the DC-DC carrier.

johu wrote: ↑Thu Oct 28, 2021 2:05 pm How about that? Not going through all 3 holes but then the holes are connected on top by the DC-DC carrier.

90degree L Chanel would stiffen that up.

Still quite a bit of leverage looks like, but better than nothing

True, the L would clear inverter well. I have some 3mm and 5mm L profiles here.

My setup is using original mountings and rubber bushings. Haven't done any real road testing, but have realised that the petrol/diesel engine config doesn't take regen and serious low speed torque into consideration. Too suptle/soft. Strengthen up as much as possible I say.

I have a weird setup. The transmission is in a classic rubber bushing so it can only move that far. The motor mount rests on rubber but can swing freely. And then there's the torque arm that should take most load on accelerating and regen.

I wouldn't settle with that. I think it should provide support also in the front-back axis of the vehicle. Nevertheless it is an improvement, maybe it's enough.