openinverter forum

Too much torque!
Why didn't I extend that further to the front

Oh dear !
might I suggest some u channel steel

Yes, used steel now Same construction as last time but the lower box profile is steel and an M12 threaded rod runs all the way from top to bottom. The the remaining aluminium box acts more as a spacer now.

Also installed DC/DC converter and switch gear on to of the inverter. Plan is to mount another battery brick in front of it to sort of seal it off.

Some weeks before I installed the ChaDeMo plug where the VW sign used to be.

Nice work in all Fields!
Great to find openinverter.org forums,
just so much stuff to learn from other projects and skip to fun parts in my own project. (or too much options and now I do not know what to do)
Anyways....

Have you tested the ChaDeMo charging yet?

I read somewhere that you and Damien are going to get CCS later on, is it possible to have CCS and chademo fast charging plugs at same time, without the chademo-tesla adapter?

Do you plan to make the chademo/ccs parts available in shop?


Keep up the good work!

- Jani

Thanks
No Chademo plug is just mechanically fitted. I plan to implement the protocol on my custom SMT32 "ECU". The latter is a Rev 2 main board that I mounted in the case of the cars original ECU because there is access to CAN bus, throttle, etc.

I've dropped CCS plans for now but I'm sure you could implement both in one vehicle.

Ah, it was fitted for a later use then.. good spot

Will be interesting to see how it goes with The STM32.
I never thought so much could be done without need for billion dollar car factory.

It is very cool.

Any news on your project?
Is the car TUVed yet?

A

I'm currently in the train back from Nice in the south of France. Biking, again but for the last time this year.
Thus, no Touran news gotta mount one more battery brick, probably in the fuel tank region with the method you suggested back in May. Then the whole pack will be covered with some sheet metal.
Then I have to fix the ESP light, do up the brakes and one wheel bearing I suppose from the sound of it. Also BMS and charging are not done.

So quite a lot of work until I can attempt a visit to TÜV.
Formally I have to collect as many part numbers as possible to convince them that I just transferred the Leaf drive train to another car.

Big milestone reached today with a lot of help from my father: the second battery brick is installed in the fuel tank region Unfortunately no detailed pictures yet as my father accidentally took my camera with him and I just have the ones from my phone.
It took us 2.5 days straight work from dusk till dawn.

• Arranging the modules so that the ones with fastening bolts are in the correct position
• Taming the Leaf spaghetti wires for the BMS
• Lift the module check, spot a problem, drop the module, solve the problem, lift the module, see the next problem, repeat...

It was about the ugliest and tightest thing I have ever done. Constantly something was in the way and in the end we found another 8mm that would move the modules further apart from each other. Now the screws from the module poles are spaced by about 15mm. I had to get between them with a 17mm nut while not producing any short circuit that would either melt my tool or set the car on fire. Of course everything was wrapped into duct tape but still it was not a comfortable situation to be in

I like the end result though, now a full Leaf battery pack is mounted under the car with no interference of the cars interior what so ever. Even the spare wheel is still in. I will get the car road legal and then decide whether to permanently mount the second battery pack somewhere (engine bay, spare wheel well, exhaust tunnel) or just whack it in when actually going on long trips.

The fuel tank region will be fully covered with sheet metal and likewise the exhaust tunnel.

Great stuff Johannes!

Fantastic. Well done. Fuel tank spaces on modern cars are a nightmare. Best I ever managed was a junction box in one.

Really loving the outside installation, showing people that you can do it outside too. I plan to make my project workbench style inside and installation will happen outside because my car doesnt fit in my garage :/

I might also use your idea of whacking other pack in when needed.. But I think it is so heavy that it would be better of installed in car if you can manage it without interfering too much with inside space.

Hi Janik, yes I still haven't settled on the question with the second battery pack. Working outside is nice, more fresh air

Does anyone know the original order of voltages on the Leaf BMS? Now that the packs are not distributed all over the car I actually consider using it again. And maybe also the original charger, at least for TÜV approval.

Very nice job!
I recommend you add steel shield, like a deflector in front of the battery just after the plastic cover. In addition to alu cover this dam will deflect stones, debris and possibly some metal pieces downward. Alu or plastic is soft and can catch damage, steel is more resilient....

Took some more pictures today.
Also redid all the wiring. B+ and B- no exit cleanly via cable clamps and I also bolted Nissans service disconnect/fuse assembly to the side of the first battery. Switch gear now lives in the exhaust tunnel and from there Nissans original cable runs to the inverter.
The original charger would be a perfect fit now as all cables end up in the correct position. But I still find it too bulky and it seems it doesn't even handle the ChaDeMo protocol as I found nowhere to plug in the control signals.

Do you plan to protect it from puddle splashes and the like?

If you found a way to get the BMS or charger working, many would like to duplicate the work!

I'm awaiting delivery of a leaf-pack(actually E-NV200) any day now... will try to provide you voltage/cell order if no one else beats me to it.

Yes cell order would be great. I completely used the "harness" of the rear (as in the original battery case) battery brick but am not sure whether it is rotated by 180°. The cables exit at B+ so that would be an indicator. The two side packs contain two wire harnesses with 24 taps each. I started out at B- with the longest wires and worked my way to the shortest ones.

For puddle protection I will install sheet metal that will extent from the exhaust tunnel all the way to the rear axle at the full width of the fuel tank compartment. Between the two bricks I will put a rubber mat or something and at the sides will put some sort of plastic.

In this video there is something about cell order:


Starting about 4min mark.

Thanks, just what I was looking for! Do you know if he shares the Excel sheet somewhere? Would be more handy than trying to pull it from the video.

johu wrote: ↑Thu Sep 19, 2019 8:49 am Thanks, just what I was looking for! Do you know if he shares the Excel sheet somewhere? Would be more handy than trying to pull it from the video.

Sorry don't know.

johu wrote: ↑Thu Sep 19, 2019 8:49 am Thanks, just what I was looking for! Do you know if he shares the Excel sheet somewhere?

Wolf hangs out on the DIY Electric Car forum... you could try contact him there?

Just took the liberty to rip it off the video. 10 minutes

And just went downstairs to check. Not looking good P3/4 is reversed and P5/6 is completely mixed up. Options from here:

1. Drop the battery down, redo the wiring - no f..n way
2. Pull out the pins and put them where they belong - dangerous because connected to cells
3. Get the connectors and build an adapter to Leaf BMS
4. Get the connectors and build an adapter to open BMS (24 4-cell modules)

I'm sort of favoring option c because the cell tap cables are a bit short anyway.

EDIT: anyone knows which connector it is? Pin spacing seems similar to this: https://www.digikey.de/product-detail/d ... ND/2273491