Zombie-GS450h Synchronous Serial & harness overkill?

Topics concerning the Toyota and Lexus inverter drop in boards
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DkubusEV
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Zombie-GS450h Synchronous Serial & harness overkill?

Post by DkubusEV »

My journey into gs450h harness building has begun. It's maybe out there to find (I've tried, read a lot of threads) and perhaps I've even read it already but not realised? but here goes, I'll try as I go (as I build my harness) to show the lay out and methods (open to criticism for the sake of improvements of course).

I've decided to start with the Synchronous serial communication cables first due to the importance I believe they have, plus the fact that my gs450h inverter plug only came with about 125mm (5") of "pigtail" length.

After stripping away the original layers of insulation and wire jackets it looked like the best "easily available" high quality replica cable would be "oxygen free balanced, braided shielded microphone cable" (twisted pair inside braided sheath with cotton filler strands and strong outer jacket).. it's also quite reasonably priced because it's available almost everywhere for stage microphone cable.

I used internal glued heat shrink on all joints and tripled this for rigidity at the point of where I have the (not ideal) soldered connection between original wire and new extensions. Crimp connections would be ideal but it's my one bad habit. (As if I only have one) ...

I haven't yet extended the brown (I think "drain") wires but my intention so far is that I'll extended them at least half way along each of the four respective synchronous lines before looping back towards the invert plug end again and then linking into the exposed braided section I've left exposed. I guess this is how it would have been from Toyota? But I don't know for sure as so far I can't find an image of a full "uncut" harness that's been unwound and layed out in an easily identifiable way.. if anyone has any personal experience on this I'd love you to join in the thread.

I'll add more information as I go, I'll externally braid all my cables with "Clean cut" (nylon automotive braided sheathing) once I get closer to final cut lengths and am almost ready to pin to the Zombie verter connector.

Hopefully my ocd approach will assist others that want to build the harness from scratch (from scraps) too.

Cheers
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1998 Mercedes R170 SLK gs450h project
2003 Smart-Roadster hillclimb EV (DC)zilla2k
1976 Purvis-Eureka EV kit car
2011 Ford focus EV (DC)Soliton1
1990 Daihatsu charade G100 3 door DC conversion.
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Re: GS450h Synchronous Serial & harness overkill?

Post by DkubusEV »

Next up is the black wire from inverter plug that goes to the Park position of the safety neutral switch. It appears as though it's "drain" wire is just parallel within the jacket however inside the jacket is a copper shield wrap. Essentially what I guess might be just a cheaper version of shielded cable. This is most likely replicated easily with a coaxial cable again from the audio industry if you don't have an automotive/industrial cable supplier near you.

Better go look through my cable box..
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1998 Mercedes R170 SLK gs450h project
2003 Smart-Roadster hillclimb EV (DC)zilla2k
1976 Purvis-Eureka EV kit car
2011 Ford focus EV (DC)Soliton1
1990 Daihatsu charade G100 3 door DC conversion.
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Re: GS450h Synchronous Serial & harness overkill?

Post by DkubusEV »

Had an appropriate length "RCA" cable in my box so it's a pretty decent choice for this coaxial shielded connection I'm guessing. Again I doubt this is necessary but...
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1998 Mercedes R170 SLK gs450h project
2003 Smart-Roadster hillclimb EV (DC)zilla2k
1976 Purvis-Eureka EV kit car
2011 Ford focus EV (DC)Soliton1
1990 Daihatsu charade G100 3 door DC conversion.
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Re: GS450h Synchronous Serial & harness overkill?

Post by DkubusEV »

Was able to source transmission harness (engine harness) and removed the required parts, now adding some "strain relief" at plug ends and then braid up.
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Simply wind each wire around a small rod 1 full turn and repeat for each wire. Then retain the bundle with a piece of internal glue heat shrink.
Simply wind each wire around a small rod 1 full turn and repeat for each wire. Then retain the bundle with a piece of internal glue heat shrink.
1998 Mercedes R170 SLK gs450h project
2003 Smart-Roadster hillclimb EV (DC)zilla2k
1976 Purvis-Eureka EV kit car
2011 Ford focus EV (DC)Soliton1
1990 Daihatsu charade G100 3 door DC conversion.
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Re: GS450h Synchronous Serial & harness overkill?

Post by DkubusEV »

Adding to the overkill theme, plus I really really dislike the plastic convoluted tubing on wire harnesses (unless it's vital for absolute safety reasons).
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Outer braided sleeve to protect the protection
Outer braided sleeve to protect the protection
Strain relief via braid locked in with internal glue heat shrink to back of plug lock.
Strain relief via braid locked in with internal glue heat shrink to back of plug lock.
Adding individual braided protection to the resolver wires and the mg1 temp sensor wires
Adding individual braided protection to the resolver wires and the mg1 temp sensor wires
1998 Mercedes R170 SLK gs450h project
2003 Smart-Roadster hillclimb EV (DC)zilla2k
1976 Purvis-Eureka EV kit car
2011 Ford focus EV (DC)Soliton1
1990 Daihatsu charade G100 3 door DC conversion.
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Re: GS450h Synchronous Serial & harness overkill?

Post by DkubusEV »

Rinse and repeat, for each set of resolver cables and respectively thier stator temperature sensors, (I also twisted the temp sensor wires just because I'm in there anyway and perhaps help avoid any interference that could confuse temp readings). Again I doubt it's "required" but it's habit from performance ecu harness building...
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Braided sheath is left longer at other end so that once it's spliced into the inverter "pigtails" it can then extend over top of said splice.
Braided sheath is left longer at other end so that once it's spliced into the inverter "pigtails" it can then extend over top of said splice.
1998 Mercedes R170 SLK gs450h project
2003 Smart-Roadster hillclimb EV (DC)zilla2k
1976 Purvis-Eureka EV kit car
2011 Ford focus EV (DC)Soliton1
1990 Daihatsu charade G100 3 door DC conversion.
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Re: Zombie-GS450h Synchronous Serial & harness overkill?

Post by JamesA »

Your cables are a work of art, very nice
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Re: Zombie-GS450h Synchronous Serial & harness overkill?

Post by mark »

Really nice looking work. The braided sheath and tesa tape makes me think of SuperFastMatt's "Re-wire Your Whole Damn Car" video. For those that haven't seen it, it's good:

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Re: Zombie-GS450h Synchronous Serial & harness overkill?

Post by DkubusEV »

Cheers Mark, I do like they way he explains things. Makes it kinda funny and at the same time reduces people's fears of doing this stuff. All I can say is, it's a good habit to plan, measure twice (at least) and especially when recycling partial factory harness wires and or connectors leave one end longer than required and non pinned or connected for as long as possible so you can always go in and regroup wires/cables and add additional braided protection sheathing that then assists with organising various portions of your harness. (One group heading towards VCU, one group heading towards Inverter, etc) etc. I normally try to also cut short lengths of heat shrink tube for each exposed braided sheath "end" so that it forms a collar that is then easy to find later. Generally my goal is always to make the harness over-protected and tidy to look at. Preferably this will mean it'll look factory style or better than factory built. It adds time that's for sure but it's way easier than searching for problems later. I use multiple sizes of the braided sheath so that I can run the individual protection within outer larger "grouping" protection because this also makes the wires less likely to bind up on each other within the group and therefore much more flexible when trying to route around in the car.
1998 Mercedes R170 SLK gs450h project
2003 Smart-Roadster hillclimb EV (DC)zilla2k
1976 Purvis-Eureka EV kit car
2011 Ford focus EV (DC)Soliton1
1990 Daihatsu charade G100 3 door DC conversion.
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Re: Zombie-GS450h Synchronous Serial & harness overkill?

Post by DkubusEV »

Part of "measuring twice" is to also test fit prior to locking all the cables into the original plastic cable router/holder. Then once all positions are tightened up (zip ties at resolver outlets) and a bit of masking tape to hold placement of speed sensor and valve body harnesses at correct distance/stick out. Then it's back to the bench to finish off that section. Add second layers of braid where required and add some heat shrink at the emerging end that routes two larger batches of wire bundles too the inverter and respectively the VCU "position holder" (as I don't yet have my zombie)....
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Checking the orientation of plugs and stick out distances required prior to locking everything into position for (hopefully) the final time (at the transmission end anyway).
Checking the orientation of plugs and stick out distances required prior to locking everything into position for (hopefully) the final time (at the transmission end anyway).
Internally zip tied to hold position within the cable router/tray thing... tight squeeze once everything is braided up.
Internally zip tied to hold position within the cable router/tray thing... tight squeeze once everything is braided up.
Resolver cables split from their respective stator temperature sensor wires (twisted and individually sheathed).
Resolver cables split from their respective stator temperature sensor wires (twisted and individually sheathed).
All the connections for the "transmission end" of the gs450h setup. All double braid protected and split into 2 cable bundles to route to the inverter and zombie verter vcu. Plus the shifter selector switch plug and lead to head towards the zombie too.
All the connections for the "transmission end" of the gs450h setup. All double braid protected and split into 2 cable bundles to route to the inverter and zombie verter vcu. Plus the shifter selector switch plug and lead to head towards the zombie too.
1998 Mercedes R170 SLK gs450h project
2003 Smart-Roadster hillclimb EV (DC)zilla2k
1976 Purvis-Eureka EV kit car
2011 Ford focus EV (DC)Soliton1
1990 Daihatsu charade G100 3 door DC conversion.
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Re: Zombie-GS450h Synchronous Serial & harness overkill?

Post by DkubusEV »

Ok so I've finally added the mysterious drain wire loops that travel half way up each synchronous serial cable and then back again towards the inverter plug end where they then hook into the shield braiding within the cables. Again I'm almost sure this is unnecessary however I "think" it's how Toyota did it? (Looking forward to hearing back regarding this from those lucky enough to get a factory "uncut" harness). Will be doing the same "drain loops" for each of the resolver cables too... didn't have any suitable length brown wires so pink was it seeing as how there's no other pink wires in the gs450h inverter/transmission plugs. Time to add the braided protection layers.
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"Drain" loop hooked into shield of each synchronous serial cable
"Drain" loop hooked into shield of each synchronous serial cable
1998 Mercedes R170 SLK gs450h project
2003 Smart-Roadster hillclimb EV (DC)zilla2k
1976 Purvis-Eureka EV kit car
2011 Ford focus EV (DC)Soliton1
1990 Daihatsu charade G100 3 door DC conversion.
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Re: Zombie-GS450h Synchronous Serial & harness overkill?

Post by DkubusEV »

Braided sheath fitted to each synchronous serial line.
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Braided protection fitted and keeps each "drain loop" in position with its respective synchronous cable.
Braided protection fitted and keeps each "drain loop" in position with its respective synchronous cable.
1998 Mercedes R170 SLK gs450h project
2003 Smart-Roadster hillclimb EV (DC)zilla2k
1976 Purvis-Eureka EV kit car
2011 Ford focus EV (DC)Soliton1
1990 Daihatsu charade G100 3 door DC conversion.
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Re: Zombie-GS450h Synchronous Serial & harness overkill?

Post by xp677 »

Ah, sorry I only just saw this thread. Part of my job is the specification of systems and cables in applications such as this, I can add a bit of feedback.

The drain wire connections don't need to be half/full length, they should be kept short. For differential pairs they are terminated at one end only. Toyota sends the brown wire down the loom and then does a 180 with it before crimping onto the cable shield (braid), so that the braid only has to fold once and so the crimp is kept straight.

For resolvers use shielded 3x twisted pair. For the USART a single shielded twisted pair per signal pair.

I'd be looking at something like a cable designed for RS485 for the USART. For the resolver, there are dedicated encoder/resolver cables available.

Keep your unshielded conductors short, heatshrink over when breaking out of shielding (adhesive lined heatshrink since we're outside!), and heatshrink over the braid/wire crimp connection first.

For my project, I used some shielded twisted pair wiring from a Jaguar, this was just two wires twisted into a pair, with a drain wire, wrapped in foil tape. No outer insulator. Crude but effective for applications such as this. I liked how compact the arrangement was.

Please never solder automotive wiring.
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Re: Zombie-GS450h Synchronous Serial & harness overkill?

Post by DkubusEV »

Awesome feedback, cheers
1998 Mercedes R170 SLK gs450h project
2003 Smart-Roadster hillclimb EV (DC)zilla2k
1976 Purvis-Eureka EV kit car
2011 Ford focus EV (DC)Soliton1
1990 Daihatsu charade G100 3 door DC conversion.
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