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Hi all, I am working on a 2019 leaf and I wanted to reuse the harness that came with the leaf and connect the zombieverter directly to this harness to run the motor. Dose anyone have a pin and harness wore diagram for the third gen inverter and 3rd gen wore harness and connect?

I have attached images of the connector I am talking about. I don't know the name of this connector.

I have managed to account for every wire but one which is this grey wire. I have used colored zip ties to help identify which wore bundles goes to where and then uses tape labels. I have also made a simple drawing of the connectors on the motor and what wire goes where I will post it after I redraw it.

Here are a couple for images that I couldn't fit above

Hi,

I don't know the pinout, it might be worth checking the maintenance manual if you haven't done already.
On another note, we don't use the big main connector, so if you want some I can cut them off and post to you.

janosch wrote: ↑Mon Apr 25, 2022 11:35 am Hi,

I don't know the pinout, it might be worth checking the maintenance manual if you haven't done already.
On another note, we don't use the big main connector, so if you want some I can cut them off and post to you.

I have looked in in Chilton’s, and several other manuals, but didn't find it probably because of how new it is? I have a feeling that the only place I will find it is nissan-techinfo which I don't have access to yet.

and about that main connector sure!

Today I am going to try and figure out where that grey wire goes and redraw the basic diagram.

I was curious if it was easier to use both the main connectors and also cleaner for the most part? Since I had it, I figure it would be worth trying out and it is a really good weatherproof connector so why not for the final installation for after I get this motor bench tested. I am not using the PDU section yet as the PDU that came with it had a hole in the casing and metal chunks inside of it, the car was in a front-end crash, so I have to bench test that later.

*** I just realized that the inverter drawing is flipped and inverted and I need to redraw it for the correct orientation and this was based off of the image Darla posted and what I found on my connector and harness. I also realized that the way you read the diagram is like how you read Japanese manga. I will make the corrections and post the new images and then delete this post.***

Here are a couple of drawings for the main harness and the inverter connector. I didn't have the OE diagram for the main harness connector, so for the pins I defaulted to assigning pin #1 to the top left most pin and then the ascending order goes vertically downward until that column and then the order moves right one one column and then downward. For the middle section the pin order goes left to right row by row, not sure why i did that I meant to continue with how i previously had it, and then the last section goes back to the other way. I also did not have the OW diagram for the inverter connector so temporarily I have the pin numbers starting in the top left most corner and then in ascending order from left to right until you are done with that row and then move down one row and move left to right. For the inverter connector the view orientation: as you look at the face of the disconnected connector that is attached to the motor harness and not the connector on the inverter itself.

Okay, I believe I have the correct orientation for the diagram and it matches up to the image Darla posted. And seeing the pins that are paired in the main harness connectors makes it a bit easier to see which pins I need to apply constant power and switched power to.

Can anyone confirm that pin 18 on the inverters connector is switched momentary power and pin 1&6 are constant 12vdc battery power?

Okay back it today.

I am checking polarity of the black/red stripe wire from the main harness and pink wire which I have isolated and determined that they go to the inverter.

I believe that the black wire with red stripe is the common ground for pins 4 and 10 of the inverter harness connector, on the harness. And the pink wire goes to the pins 1 and 6 which should be battery 12v power and then I think pin 18 is switched power.

To test I am using my DMM and using diod function with the connector connected to the inverter I connected the positive meter lead to the pink wire and the negative lead to the black and red wire and I got 1.379v, constant even after 30 secs. I switched it and placed the positive lead to the black and red wire and the negative lead to the pink wire and I got OL, constant.

For the CAN wires I have the blue wire of the twisted pair is CAN-H and the green wire is CAN-L.

I was hoping to find a wire diagram to find out what this grey wire is for. I couldn't find one and didn't want to pay for it so I am opening up the harness and manually tracing the wire.

Found where that grey wire goes. I traced both ends and that wire is grey from the main harness, through the motor harness until you get to just before the PDU connector where it goes into the resolver wires. Just after the resolver connector that single grey wire splits into two grey wire, one will a silver spot on it and then once you get to the point in the harness that it has this black sticky tack material on the harness one grey wire goes into the blue, white resolver pair and the other wire goes into the blue/pink pair, and green/ red pair.

Dose anyone know what this grey wire is and what it does ?

Planning wiring up the motor tomorrow and decided to check the polarity. Can anyone verify that this is correct orientation for third gen inverter.

I have positive on the right and negative on the left near the alignment pin as you look at it from Infront of the reducer.

I tested the polarity with the diod function on my DMM.
First test: positive lead was connected to the left bus bar and negative lead was connected to the right bus bar and I got 0.621v constant.

Second test: I had the positive lead on the right bus bar and the negative lead on the left bus bar. I got 0.3v to 1.9v and the O.L. with in 20 seconds.

So I marked test two as the correct polarity orientation.

I wanted a more accurate drawing and orientation. I was also curious to how many degrees the connector twisted in got approximate degrees.

I made a correction to the drawing, I forgot to add one pin in the drawing and got the arrows pointing to the correct pins in black ink.

Okay now the image and diagram match. And the drawing is as you look at it on the inverter.

I know at this point it is a bit over kill, but I am just testing and recording as I go along and this is kind of my digital notes so I know I am rambling a lot and for that I apologize I want to be 99.9% sure I know every wire for where they go and what they do before I put power to it so I don't destroy anything. I have all the equipment to do the repair I just don't want to have to do that at this point. also a good learning process.

so for the three wires that goes to the inverter from the main harness connector, I have the wires labeled as pins: 21: pink, 23: Black/Red, & 29: Red.

Pin 21 of the main harness connector goes to and powers pins 1 & 6 on the inverter and pin 23 goes to and provides ground for pins 4 & 10, and lastly pin 29 of the main harness connector goes to pin 18 of the inverter see my most recent drawing above for pin position comparison.

For further testing I decided to do a continuity test to see what results I would get.
1st test:
negative lead on the DMM to the black/red wire and pink wire. Results: ~5.52M ohm
2nd:
repeat above. Results: 1.077M ohm
3rd test:
Negitive lead to the black/red wire and positive lead to the red wire. Results: 8.23k ohms
4th test:
Pink wire and motor case. Results: .OL
5th test:
black/red wire and motor case. Results: .OL

Diod Function setting on DMM:

negative DMM lead to: Positive lead to
black/red wire Red wire. Result: .OL
black/red wire Pink wire. Result: Constant 1.375v
Red wire black/red wire. Result: .OL
Red wire Pink wire. Result: .OL
Pink Wire Red Wire. Results: .OL
Pink wire Black/red wire: .OL

Got everything wired up on the bench and everything seems to work, but have no invudc.

I have switched power going to pin 18 of the inverter or the red wire of the main harness and constant battery power to pins 1 and 6 or the pink wire of the main harness.

Now going to check for voltage for can communication.

With a DMM: positive lead to blue CAN Wire and negative lead to the green CAN Wire. I measure 156.1mV to 158 mV.

Blue harness can wire goes to blue wire CAN EXT 1 on the zombieverter. And the green wire goes to CAN EXT1 low.
Since no PDU is connected yet I put both blue can wires together and both green can wires together to see if that would make a difference, or to see if I mixed up the pins by accident. Now voltage is ranging from 155.9 mV 156.8 mV. Still no INVudc.

T15 on
Run mode
Throttle is responding and Tq command being sent.
No Errors

For some reason no can communication with the inverter.

just going over everything and double checking everything.

I can not get the inverter to come on.

I made sure that there was a good ground for the 12v system and I am using a fused battery input that powers a power distribution block that feeds the VCU +12vdc and the VCU goes to the common ground. I double checked that Pin 52 of the VCU, Start, is working properly and I can get the precharge to complete and all relays and contactors close. I have start as its own momentary switch that automatically releases when you are not pressing it. T15 is it's own switch along with HV request. for forward, reverse and neutral I have a three position switch and I confirmed that I can toggle between forward and reverse.

I checked pack voltage at the inverter input terminals and I read 191.8V after the precharge is complete and contactors close.
I verified that Pin 43 of the vcu goes to pin 11 on the inverter and is connected to the green wire. Pin 44, CAN EXT.1-H goes to pin 5 of the inverter which is the blue wire.

I tried the manually on button in the vcu and that did nothing.

For the red wire on the main harness which goes to pin 18 on the inverter I put my positive DMM lead on that and the other on the common ground and then turned the system on and I can see the power switching on. For the pink wire which powers pin 1 and 6 on the inverter with the whole system off and battery connected I see current battery level and then when the system is on I can see a .2 Vdrop. checked all the grounds and made sure they are all good. between the ground wire and motor case I measured 17.4 mV.

with the system on from can hi to ground I measured: 2.453V
CAN low and ground: 3.385V
across can hi and low: 20mV to 180mV difference mostly sitting at 155mV, voltage fluctuates.

for start up i first turn on t15 and hv request and then press start for 6 seconds and the release at which point the precharge completes, system is in Run mode, no error and I can read udc voltage, but invstat and invudc is off and 0. TQ command is being sent and I can see the VCU is sending CAN signals and the POTs are changing value and going to a positive value. So if the inverter can get power and switch on this motor should be spinning.

I am pretty sure that the wiring is correct for this harness. Thoughts anyone?

I had a gen2 inverter which was pretty similar where everything was working but no CAN communication and couldnt get the inverter to come online.

also u1 of the ISA shunt goes to the positive terminal of the inverter. I also have a termination resistor on the ISA shunt.

I have HV positive on the right and negative on the left.

the actual set up is a little different from the drawing since I am not yet using the PDU.

last note about the ISA shunt...It seems to be responding, but everyone else says theirs makes a buzzing sound where mine doesn't make any sounds and I have tried initializing it multiple times.

The EXT CAN1 is for vehicle communication.
You should connect the inverter along with the ISA shunt to EXT CAN2.

Kelju wrote: ↑Wed May 04, 2022 3:44 pm The EXT CAN1 is for vehicle communication.
You should connect the inverter along with the ISA shunt to EXT CAN2.

Would there be a conflict if the inverter and CAN-H & CAN-L of the inverter and ISA shunts are connected to the CAN EXT 1 of the VCU?

I probably misunderstood the video then because it sounded like inverter was EXT1 and shunt was EXT 2.
Would the PDU also be on CAN EXT2?

I will go re wire that and retest it and then post my results later today.

Thank you for the clarification.

*After thought...It makes sense that it shouldn't matter if CAN is series vs parallel or series parallel, the packets of information still travel on the bus. So I guess the better question is, if it is parallel do I need a termination resistor for each parallel CAN? I imagine that the inverter already has that hardwired into the inverter and probably same for the PDU correct?

Kelju wrote: ↑Wed May 04, 2022 3:44 pm The EXT CAN1 is for vehicle communication.
You should connect the inverter along with the ISA shunt to EXT CAN2.

Thank you! That worked and motor spins.

Now to start on the PDU. I have to figure out if the one we have is damaged or not. When it was in a crash the PDU case got a big hole in it and metal fragments went all over the inside. If the third gen PDU doesn't work, do you know if you can pair a second gen PDU with the third gen inverter?

Okay, now to start on the main harness to PDU and checking to see if the PDU I have is good. Does anyone have the third gen PDU connector(s) and pin diagram by chance? there is a main PDU connector which is like the inverters connector and then another small connector that goes into the PDU, not sure what that one goes to yet.

okay,

this appears to be the PDM connector pin diagram for the 2018+ PDM

so pin 11 is CAN-L and pin 27 is CAN-H

pin 16 is ignition or switched power.

pin 18 is constant fused +12vdc power

pin 29 is proximity

Pin 30 is pilot

Got the PDU wired up and the EVSE kicks on and off and sends 230v to the charger and the PDU clicks but the zombieverter says PP and CP absent and not detected, aux battery is at 9v so going to charge that up and see if that is the reason or if there is another problem going on. I am going to go over the setting in the VCU and then come back and try again. For the PDU I am just using the J1772 plug for now and removed the chademo as it was damaged and I would rather convert it to CCS.