openinverter forum

In my unit I found a 3 lip seal with an aluminum body. The seals from the ukraine look like the ones from china with a stainless steel housing and laser marking. On aliexpress the 3 lip seals can be found in black and light yellow, just like the two offered on ebay. I have two more units here and will see what is installed there.

Skudak wrote: ↑Thu Jul 28, 2022 5:36 pm
Which one did you order? Did it come in the manufacturers box with a part #? I have been eyeing these two. Both ship from Ukraine but different sellers and different cities

https://www.ebay.com/itm/255414332627?h ... Sw06dh~sJH
https://www.ebay.com/itm/363912238070?h ... Swg0Bi1C5k

This is the listing I bought: https://www.ebay.com/itm/255414345077 (Edit 8/31: See comment below about this seal leaking)

I wanted output shaft seals too as I think I nicked one of them when pulling the axles out.

On the Tesla LRU, the axle adapter seals are a high-failure item (they leak frequently).

I use BMW parts for the axle adapters


https://www.ebay.de/itm/133413837269

Breite [mm]: 10
Breite [mm]: 15,5
Innendurchmesser [mm]: 44
Außendurchmesser [mm]: 67
Einbauposition: Hinterachse beidseitig
Gewicht [kg]: 0,032

Does anyone know the size of the O-ring on the drive unit speed sensor? I don't see the ring itself listed in the Tesla or MB parts diagrams. Mine was torn when removed.

Edit - it appears to be a 24mm ID, 2mm thick O-ring.

TastyGuac wrote: ↑Wed Aug 10, 2022 7:13 pm Does anyone know the size of the O-ring on the drive unit speed sensor? I don't see the ring itself listed in the Tesla or MB parts diagrams. Mine was torn when removed.

Edit - it appears to be a 24mm ID, 2mm thick O-ring.

It is necessary that someone measure what was taken, try to approach the car market with a torn ring, it may turn out to pick up or cut another

@TastyGuac: The maximum inner diameter should be 24.25mm in order to fit snugly around the speed sensor ("circuit assembly switch").
Mine measured 23.85mm after taking it off the sensor.

The minimum outer diameter should (after assembly and straining) be 27.00mm in order to fit snugly in the aluminium manifold.
Mine measured 27.25mm after taking it off the sensor.

Measured thickness: 2.00mm (assuming a circular cross-section)

I know that 23.85mm + 2 x 2.00mm ≠ 27.25mm because the cross-section has become oval in the course of time.

My measurement accuracy estimation: 0.1mm.

You can also buy a new "circuit assembly switch" for $245.57 at at Toyota

I can confirm my new Chenming seal is leaking. Sensor is wet after about 300 miles but doesn't seem to be leaking at a high volume. No fluid in the motor or inverter, and nothing came out of the drain bolt I drilled next to the sensor.

The search for a better seal continues. @Boxster EV - Any update on the SKF seal?

TastyGuac wrote: ↑Wed Aug 31, 2022 5:41 pm I can confirm my new Chenming seal is leaking. Sensor is wet after about 300 miles but doesn't seem to be leaking at a high volume. No fluid in the motor or inverter, and nothing came out of the drain bolt I drilled next to the sensor.

The search for a better seal continues. @Boxster EV - Any update on the SKF seal?

I’ve done about 800 miles on the SKF seal / speedi sleeve combo and it’s completely dry. Not one single sign of residue.

@johan how are you getting on with the Toyota?

Johan wrote: ↑Thu Aug 11, 2022 10:02 pm You can also buy a new "circuit assembly switch" for $245.57 at at Toyota

Who'd have thought Mercedes parts prices might be 'reasonable'!

TastyGuac wrote: ↑Wed Aug 31, 2022 5:41 pm I can confirm my new Chenming seal is leaking. Sensor is wet after about 300 miles but doesn't seem to be leaking at a high volume. No fluid in the motor or inverter, and nothing came out of the drain bolt I drilled next to the sensor.

The search for a better seal continues. @Boxster EV - Any update on the SKF seal?

Chenming seal Walks usually about 60,000-100,000 km
In the USA and Ukraine, they put it at service stations and give a guarantee of 60,000, the main thing is to put the rotor on a flat surface and not break the cut of the stuffing box during installation

Hey! If it wasn't for us Toyota RAV4 EV and Mercedes B250e owners, you probably wouldn't be able to buy that sensor at all!

asavage wrote: ↑Thu Sep 01, 2022 4:06 pm Hey! If it wasn't for us Toyota RAV4 EV and Mercedes B250e owners, you probably wouldn't be able to buy that sensor at all!

Probably yes
By the way, do you think it makes no sense to contact Tesla so that they start selling these oil seals or give the contact of the factory that made them

From what I've read, Tesla seems to have no interest in selling parts to end-users (and few parts to professionals), which is discouraging.

asavage wrote: ↑Thu Sep 01, 2022 4:11 pm From what I've read, Tesla seems to have no interest in selling parts to end-users (and few parts to professionals), which is discouraging.

Yes, they sell engines and batteries only if they install them, but it seems to me that with the right to repair, the sale of the oil seal is really necessary, because it's just wrecking, changing the whole engine instead of replacing the rubber according to the regulations

Oh, I agree with what Tesla should do, but I'm not holding my breath for it to happen. Look at all the other stupid things Tesla has done and continues to do.

We sold our M3 last month. I'm keeping the RAV4 EV.

Vsevolod wrote: ↑Thu Sep 01, 2022 5:25 pm Yes, they sell engines and batteries only if they install them, but it seems to me that with the right to repair, the sale of the oil seal is really necessary, because it's just wrecking, changing the whole engine instead of replacing the rubber according to the regulations

To give them their due - the encoder/sensor is listed in their catalogue - with a comment "Over-the-Counter(No VIN)" so in 'theory' it should be available? RRP in UK is £90 - which is a bit steep if you just need the o-ring!.

They list an inlet manifold o-ring separately - 11 INLET MANIFOLD FITTING O-RING 1008806-00-A why not the sensor o-ring! would be nice if they were the same size?

Boxster EV wrote: ↑Wed Aug 31, 2022 6:35 pm @johan how are you getting on with the Toyota?

After some error message trouble (see here for a video log), I was able to put the car back together correctly. So far, the Chenming seals have run 80mi without leaks. I could not drive much yet, partially bc I was overseas .

Maybe anyone can ask SKF about the dimensions of such an oil seal? It seems to be for electric motors, it would be interesting to know what sizes are available
https://www.skf.com/group/products/auto ... for-edrive

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Very interesting! I'm also looking for a quality seal. QC Charge claims to have them, but they ignore me if I ask if they're willing to sell them.

howardc64 wrote: ↑Wed Sep 07, 2022 4:50 am They are familiar with Tesla LDU seals for a few years now.

Do you mean that they have produced them before? Did they say for which company?

Anyway, I'm interested!

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I'm interested in the custom seal too. 2013 model S P85 here that has 20k on the model q DU from 2020. I have been pondering Tesla's the use of the coolant in the DU's instead of traditional hydraulic fluid or oils, which have much higher viscosity and would likely leak less on a seal in this situation. Also, if electrolysis is occuring due to conductivity and causing high voltage arcing/damage to the seal area, we might be better off running a hybrid coolant with very low conductivity (e.g. distilled water). A company called evans has some low conductivity coolant but reviews of it on traditional cars is a mixed bag due to it not performing as well as traditional coolant and cars running a bit hotter. There is an acquaintance of mine on the tesla forums who lives in Wisconsin who I have talked to over chat - he has 353k on his 2014 model S, original battery and about 250k miles on the current drive unit which was put into the car around 2017. (not sure what drive unit rev he has). These are the anecdotal cases we should focus on to see possibly what seals and revisions were done to get these things to last 150k with the right seals. I am sure without an aegis ring or similar voltage buildup and discharge will continue to be a problem now that the hybrid ceramic bearings aren't the preferred path for this discharge- I would suspect the seal and coolant would have possibly low enough resistance that electrolysis might possibly be damaging it. My past work as an engineer is primarily electrical and software where I designed outdoor wireless systems for last mile internet access and came up with solutions to channel esd away from sensitive radio chips, electronics, etc for 16 years; I currently design and sell automotive electronics for a living for the past 5 years. There are a ton of automotive transients on a traditional vehicle, but an EV is on a whole new level @ 400v w/tons of current.

My $.02.

howardc64 wrote: ↑Fri Sep 09, 2022 2:20 am Ok let me see if more interest. They were engaged on LDU seal. Prefer not to disclose more without their permission. Anyway, their website shows Tesla logo haha. I'll be glad to share company name once I get more interest and their permission.

One note is we don't know if quality will be better or worse than Chenming seal. We are just unable to draw confidence through contact and evaluate expertise. Anyway, doesn't sound like any seal is going to last much more than 30-50k miles and can start leaking in much sooner.

I am in need to rebuild the LDU in same situation as you. I can't see how working with a vendor that isn't making the seal now meet our time schedule. Anyway, My 13 MS85 is parked with insurance turned off for now so could stay that way for few months haha.

Have you talked to Saint Gobain?

I would also be interested in doing a group buy of custom seals. I'd be in for at least 2